Correct chimney deflector. Windproof cap for chimney

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Chimney deflector

System that removes smoke from heating devices and appliances, is considered one of the most important components of heating equipment, which is equally important when creating comfort and coziness in a residential building.

A proper chimney system performs two main functions: the removal of all elements released during fuel combustion, and the correct and high-quality air flow. Special attention it is worth paying attention to those chimneys that do not have forced pressurization, which forces you to spend more time on calculations and construction of such systems.

Their main problem can be considered strong air flows in the environment, which disrupt draft and proper operation of the chimney. This leads to malfunction of thermal generators and smoke in the living room or boiler room. This problem can be corrected with the help of a deflector on the chimney, which is able to establish draft and exhaust in a non-forced system.

Possible problems associated with system smoke

Most often, smoke in the chimney system occurs for the following reasons:

• strong wind gusts, as a result of which air under strong pressure penetrates into the pipe, which causes a decrease in traction force and smoke in the living room;
• too narrow smoke passage, which is not able to provide the system with the required level of thrust;
• insufficient lifting height of the chimney pipe, which does not allow the formation of required pressure and traction force in the pipe.

Statistical type deflectors are designed specifically to solve all these problems, allowing the chimney to work extremely correctly and efficiently. The use of this element of the system is relevant for private or collective ventilation and chimney systems. As a rule, there are no restrictions on the use of this auxiliary device if its location does not interfere with other functions of the chimney.

Purpose and use of deflectors

As a rule, chimney systems are considered the most important element the entire heating system, because it is the operation of the chimney that affects the process of fuel combustion and the removal of all combustion products from the system and the house in particular.

The entire process of operation of a heating boiler depends on a high-quality air flow and on the complete removal of smoke from the system. Without the proper amount of oxygen, the combustion process is impossible, and food residues in a living space can seriously harm the health of residents.

In order to organize the correct level of draft in the system, you need to know some features of the chimney, the design and organization of which must be correct. First of all, it is worth considering the required cross-section of the pipe intended for air inflow and outlet. Important factors include the height of the chimney and its configuration. Now let's look at these requirements in more detail.

The choice of the required cross-section directly depends on the power of the thermal energy generator. The smoke exhaust duct or passage itself must be of a vertical type and straight enough so as not to create air jams during operation.

The height of the pipe should not be less than 0.5 m above the level of the ridge element of the roof structure.

In the event that compliance with these requirements does not produce a tangible result, it is worth resorting to the use of a deflector, which is mounted on top part chimney pipe.

The principle of operation of the deflector is to use the wind as an additional tool in leveling or increasing the level of draft in the system. Externally it looks like this. At the end of the pipe, a part of the system is installed that has a larger inner diameter than the chimney itself.

A strong wind allows you to create a rarefied space in the deflector, into which all combustion products remaining in the chimney move.

Among other things, the deflector has additional useful functions that have a positive effect on the entire operation of the chimney duct. With the help of such an element you can protect the system from rainwater and snow getting into it. winter time. As a rule, this helps the system function efficiently in any weather.

Types and principles of design and operation of deflectors

Deflectors can be made in several generally accepted configurations and designs:

• TsAGI type deflectors;
• round type deflector (Volper);
• deflector designed by Grigorovich;
• open and H-shaped deflector.

The deflector itself has a design consisting of several separate parts. These parts include the lower type cylinder, diffuser and umbrella. The diffuser has the form of a cylinder located at the top of the element, and the umbrella protects the chimney from rain and snow getting into it. As a rule, deflectors are made from galvanized steel, which eliminates the possibility of metal corrosion by such debris.

The operation of the deflector does not have any features in its concept that even a novice master is not able to master. The wind flow goes around the entire deflector, colliding with it. This allows air to penetrate the upper cylinder of the deflector, increasing the draft in the chimney and drawing out all the smoke stagnant in the system. Due to the intensive movement of air inside the deflector, the traction force increases several times.

The design of this element allows you to increase thrust even when the wind flow moves in a vertical direction. For this purpose, there are special gaps in the upper part of the cylinder through which air penetrates into the ventilation and chimney systems.

It is worth taking into account such a thing as a downwind wind, which can make it difficult to remove smoke and reduce the level of draft in the chimney. Due to this wind flow, multi-directional wind flows are formed under the deflector umbrella, which clog the entire pipe.

Protection of deflectors from low winds

Due to the presence of this feature of wind flows, deflectors began to be equipped with special protective devices that help increase the level of draft in the pipe in any weather. To do this, an axis is installed inside the chimney on two bearings located at different levels.

A semi-cylindrical screen, a weathervane and a cover are installed on the axis. It is this design that protects the entire chimney from the effects of the lower wind flow.

After the direction of the wind flow changes, the weather vane rotates, thereby closing the chimney from the wrong wind flow. Thus, any direction and strength of the wind is not able to block the path of the exhaust smoke, and the draft in the chimney remains the same power.

Do not forget that deflectors are designed for pipes round section, which can become a problem if you have an old brick pipe, having a square cross-section. In order to solve this problem, special pipes are used that act as adapters.

For chimneys with a large square cross-section, which are built for fireplaces heating systems, it is necessary to use adapters in the form of spacer legs that connect the pipe and the deflector itself. These legs are made of metal strips that can be galvanized or high-quality painted.

Brick pipes require an appropriate transition with an inlet in the desired direction, which allows you to connect a round deflector and a square chimney. In other words, it is not difficult to secure this element of the chimney system in the presence of any type and shape of chimney structures.

You don’t have to buy a deflector at a hardware store, because you can make it extremely easily with your own hands. To do this, you need to calculate the size and shape of the element, after which you can begin the manufacturing process.

On galvanized steel sheet it is necessary to draw the upper and lower cylinders of the future deflector, which can be easily done using an ordinary pencil. You can cut out the necessary elements using metal scissors, which can easily cope with this task.

Once these two parts have been cut and filed, which is required to properly join the two edges of one part, you can begin to secure these edges. As a rule, a welding machine, bolts or rivets are used for this.

It’s worth noting right away that connecting a galvanized steel workpiece using a welding machine is extremely difficult, because it burns through thin metal quite quickly. It is for this reason that rivets or small bolts are most often used.

The finished cone cap must be secured to the upper cylinder of the deflector. This is done using small brackets made of the same sheet steel. The brackets are secured to the pipe using rivets. Do not forget that the brackets should only be attached to outside deflector so as not to create additional interference in its internal part for proper air flow and smoke extraction.

A reverse type cone must be attached to the element umbrella. In addition, the assembly of all parts of the deflector must be carried out directly on the pipe itself, which will allow for high-quality installation and fastening of each individual part of the structure.

Otherwise, it is possible to connect two elements of the system poorly, which will subsequently cause a malfunction of the structure and the entire chimney as a whole. In some cases, make this design on our own It's simply impossible.

As a rule, this happens with brick chimneys, which require high-quality adapters or stands. From this we can conclude that it is much easier, more profitable and faster to buy this inexpensive element of the system than to try to make it yourself.

It is worth recalling that only galvanized steel can be used to make the deflector, which successfully resists the formation of rust, which negatively affects the life and quality of service of such a system element.

For efficient operation of the chimney, a special device is provided, which is mounted on its head.

The chimney deflector is designed to improve the draft created in the structure. It also provides reliable protection pipes from the penetration of precipitation and various contaminants.

Present on the market Various types deflectors, some of them can be made independently.

What is a deflector for? Functional Features

Deflector (translated from English as “reflector”) – tube structure installed on the cap to protect the top of the chimney.

The main purpose of the deflector is to strengthen and equalize the draft of heating equipment (furnace or boiler) for the safe removal of combustion products. In the absence of a deflector, air masses may penetrate, which subsequently hinder or counteract the good draft of the heat generator.

The presence of such a device helps to increase the efficiency of heating equipment by up to 20%.

In addition to its main purpose - smoke removal, the device is used to perform a number of important functions:

• Thrust leveling. Good draft ensures the supply of oxygen, which leads to savings in fuel material - it burns faster and completely in the heat generator.
• Spark extinguishing. The formation of sparks occurs as a result of an increase in the temperature of fuel combustion and draft in the chimney structure, which can cause a fire. The device ensures safe burnout of sparks.
• Protection from the negative effects of precipitation. Such a device provides reliable protection of the smoke channel from rain, snow, hail and strong wind. This contributes to effective and uninterrupted operation heating equipment even in bad weather.

The principle of operation of the deflector

Chimney deflectors are mounted in an exhaust duct or on a smoke exhaust pipe to improve internal draft.

The operating principle of the device is as follows:

• Wind and air masses surround the walls of the outer cylinder of the structure, creating the necessary resistance.
• Part of the air flow twists into vortices and rushes up the deflector. Next, the air is combined with combustion products, which are discharged from the chimney.
• The air-smoke mass leads to an increase in internal draft in the smoke exhaust structure.
• Regardless of the direction of air flow, such a process also leads to improved draft in heating equipment.

The upper cylinder has special gaps to suck in smoke. Sometimes air vortices created from below under the hood can prevent the removal of combustion products. This is significant drawback designs. The problem is solved by installing an inverted cone-shaped nozzle under the umbrella, which is designed to reflect, cut and remove masses from the chimney structure.

Types of chimney deflectors

Modern deflectors for chimneys are represented by a variety of various designs, the most popular of them are:

• TsAGI.
• Grigorovich deflector.
• Volper.
• H-shaped.
• Vane.
• Disc-shaped.
• Rotating.
• Spark arrestor.

TsAGI

A universal version of deflectors developed by the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute. The structural elements of the device are a pipe fixed to the chimney, a diffuser, a ring and an umbrella.

The main advantage of TsAGI is the convenient location of the umbrella, when warm air masses are removed through the ventilation duct, which leads to an increase in draft. TsAGI is used to protect the ventilation and smoke exhaust systems.

This design effectively cuts the incoming air flow to quickly remove smoke from the chimney. In this case, the umbrella is located inside the cylinder, therefore it provides maximum protection from the negative effects of precipitation.

A significant drawback of the design is the complexity of production, so it is quite difficult to assemble a TsAGI deflector at home.

Grigorovich deflector

Most affordable option devices that you can make yourself from scrap materials. The structure consists of an upper cylinder, a lower cylinder with pipes, a cone and mounting brackets.

The Wolpert-Grigorovich deflector is successfully used to protect the hood and chimney. The main advantage of the device is the simplicity of the design, but the disadvantage is the high position of the umbrella in relation to the diffuser, which leads to smoke blowing in from the sides.

In general, such a device does not effectively increase traction, but prevents precipitation from penetrating into the pipe.

Round Volper

Such a device is almost identical to the TsAGI deflector, but with the only difference - there is a visor for protection from precipitation and pollution, located above the diffuser.

H-shaped device

The H-shaped deflector uses pipe sections and is therefore able to withstand extreme wind loads. The main structural elements are mounted in the letter H, eliminating the entry of precipitation and contaminants into the pipe due to the horizontal pipe.

Lateral vertical elements contribute to an increase in internal draft, which leads to the simultaneous removal of smoke in different directions.

Vane

Another option for a chimney deflector, which is represented by canopies connected to each other, rotating in a circle. To ensure constant movement under the influence of air masses, a special one is installed in the upper part of the structure. Many designs are equipped with a small arrow pin that determines the direction of the wind.

By cutting air flows, the visors lead to increased draft in the chimney. In addition, they protect the boiler or stove from possible contamination coming from outside.

A significant drawback of the design is the fragility of the bearing that ensures the movement of the visors.

Disc deflector

A simple and affordable option for protecting the chimney system, providing high draft rates. The main structural elements create a special canopy to protect the chimney from dirt and precipitation.

At the bottom, the visor is equipped with a cap directed towards the pipe. The air masses entering the deflector create a narrow and rarefied channel, which allows the internal draft to be doubled.

Rotating deflector

Such a device can rotate due to air masses in one direction, so in calm weather it is absolutely motionless. If there is heavy ice, the turbo design becomes useless and therefore requires heating or periodic cleaning.

The turbo deflector reliably protects the chimney system from clogging and the negative effects of precipitation. If a gas boiler is used as a heat generator, then it would be rational to use such a chimney.

Spark arrestor

There are models of devices for safely extinguishing sparks. They are usually structures equipped with a cylinder and an umbrella with a fine mesh.

Special tables contain information on the dimensions of devices for standard chimneys.

size table

• Deflector height = 1.6 (1.7)×d.
• Cap width = 1.7 (1.8)×d;
• Diffuser width = 1.2 (1.3)×d.

d – internal diameter of the smoke exhaust channel.

Important! To obtain the required values, preliminary measurements of the internal diameter of the chimney pipe will be required.

Instructions for assembling the deflector

The Grigorovich deflector is the simplest and most popular type of protective device. It has a simplified and reliable design that you can make yourself.

Tin or galvanized steel with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm is suitable for making a chimney.

For assembly you will need the following set of working tools:

• Scissors for cutting metal.
• Hammer.
• Electric drill and drills.
• Welding machine.
• Roulette.
• Pencil and felt-tip pen.
• Thick cardboard.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Bolts and nuts.

The basis for the device is a 0.8 mm galvanized steel sheet and steel strips.

A homemade deflector is assembled according to the following scheme:

1. Calculation of the dimensions of the future device. To simplify, you can use a ready-made formula.
2. Each structural element is marked on cardboard. Ready-made templates cut out and connected to each other to check that the dimensions match the required parameters.
3. The templates are placed on steel sheets and outlined along the contours using a felt-tip pen. The blanks are cut with scissors strictly along the contours.
4. A cylindrical diffuser is formed from the central part. Holes for self-tapping screws are made at the edges.
5. The outer cylinder is created in a similar way. A cone-shaped cap is assembled from two blanks.
6. 6 cuts are made along the edges of the upper cone for fixing posts. Stands 21 cm long and 5 cm wide are cut out of steel strips. Next, the lower cone is fixed to the upper cone with an edge using stands.
7. The finished cap is connected to the diffuser and installed in the outer cylinder.

Important! All parts are connected to each other with bolts and nuts or welding.

Deflector installation

In order for the chimney pipe to have reliable protection, the finished deflector must be correctly installed on it.

To install the device on the roof, you will need the following tools and fasteners:

• Electric drill with drills.
• Set of open-end wrenches.
• Threaded studs.
• Nuts.
• Connecting clamps.
• Ladders for climbing and moving on the roof.

In addition, it is necessary to prepare a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the diameter of the channel.

Important! When installing a deflector on a chimney large diameter For additional fixation, it is recommended to use steel guy wires.

By following the step-by-step instructions, any bathhouse owner can easily assemble and install the simplest and most affordable chimney deflector. Such a device will not only improve internal traction, but also protect the channel from pollution and the negative effects of precipitation.

In any home where there is stove heating It is very important to create good draft in the chimney. A significant element in the gas exhaust system is a device that increases the rate of removal of combustion products. This design is called a deflector; it not only increases traction, but also protects the channel from debris or precipitation. The design of this product is quite simple, which allows you to make a chimney deflector with your own hands - the drawings from which you can make the design are clear and simple.

There are many types of devices that increase chimney draft. There are quite easy-to-manufacture options that are popular - TsAGI, Grigorovich deflectors, chimneys mounted on brick pipes. Although such complex structures as weather vane deflectors have an advantage due to which they are also successful - these devices provide decent traction in any wind direction.

Chimney deflector

What materials and tools are needed?

When creating any of these nozzles on a pipe to remove combustion products, you can use materials and tools that do not require such special skills as, say, the ability to work with welding machine. To make a chimney deflector with your own hands, just use:

• a wooden or rubber mallet;
• metal scissors;
• roulette;
• ruler;
• special chalk for metal;
• electric drill;
• manual riveter;
• metal drills;
• hacksaw for metal;
• regular scissors;
• simple pencil.

Types of deflectors

It’s easy to make a device if you have:

• sheet metal, for example, galvanized iron;
• metal strip or small size steel corner;
• aluminum rivets (drills are selected according to the diameter of the rivets);
• for fastening the product to the chimney, bolts and nuts;
• cardboard for preparing patterns.

Deflector diagram

The first stage of work is drawing up drawings and patterns

Before you start making a chimney deflector with your own hands, prepare drawings on plain paper. For each option, there is a certain ratio that affects the efficiency of the device when removing gases. Therefore, a product diagram is created indicating the dimensions, according to which the calculations will be made. required amount materials and create patterns for cutting sheet metal.

After preparing the drawings, patterns are made that are subsequently used to construct the elements of a particular device. Having made the necessary patterns, we begin to create a metal structure.

Grigorovich deflector - manufacturing stages

The simplest product is the Grigorovich device, which is easy for most people to make.

Calculations and preparation of drawings

When drawing drawings and sizing this product, the following ratio applies:

• the height of the structure is approximately 1.7d;
• the cap must be made with a width of 2d;
• The diffuser width should be about 1.3d.

Grigorovich's homemade deflector

The symbol d refers to the diameter of the smoke channel. If a different size ratio is used during manufacturing, this will negatively affect the efficiency of the created device.

Based on the drawn drawings, patterns are prepared that are used when cutting galvanized iron into elements, from which the product is then assembled. To do this, transfer the outline of the elements in expanded form and in full size onto the cardboard, using a ruler, tape measure and pencil. When making a deflector for a chimney pipe designed by Grigorovich, prepare patterns for the outer cylinder, diffuser and cap.

Diffuser calculation

Stages and nuances of making a deflector

1. Using prepared patterns, outlines of the necessary parts are applied to sheets of metal, outlining cardboard figures with special chalk. If special chalk is not available, you can use a simple pencil. Add 20 mm to the contour of the parts in places where they overlap, which will allow you to maintain the required configuration of the finished elements during assembly.
2. Using metal shears, the elements necessary for assembly are cut out of galvanized metal, thereby preparing the expanded outer cylinder, diffuser, both parts of the cap - the umbrella cap along with reverse cone.
3. Then, using a hacksaw, cut metal strips or a corner into pieces of the required length, through which all the elements will be connected in ready product.
4. The parts are given the required shape by folding and bending them in a certain way.
5. The next operation is assembling the product. The elements are superimposed on each other and, using electric drill, drill the necessary holes. Using rivets placed in prepared holes, the parts are fastened together.
6. To install the Grigorovich device on a chimney, you can use two options - in the first case, through holes are drilled at the mounting location, through which the structure is fixed with fasteners on the chimney, and in the second option, a clamp is made from a strip, through which the deflector is fixed to the pipe.

TsAGI chimney nozzle

Manufacturing procedure for the TsAGI deflector

No less common is the device developed at the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute (TsAGI). Thanks to its simple design, it will not be difficult to make such a deflector with your own hands.

Preparation of drawings and patterns

Initially, drawings are prepared, during the preparation of which the dimensions of the product are calculated. The diameter of the chimney, indicated by the symbol d, is taken as a basis. When designing a product, use the following size ratio:

• the size of the wide part of the diffuser is 1.25d;
• ring diameter – 2d;
• ring height – 1.2d;
• distance from the lower edge of the ring to the narrow part of the diffuser – d/2;
• diffuser height – d/2 + 1.2d;
• umbrella width – 1.7d.

TsAGI nozzle size ratio

The ease of assembling the product from elements created using such templates depends on how correctly the patterns are made, and in the future this will affect the efficiency of the design. It is necessary to prepare patterns for the following parts:

• diffuser;
• inlet pipe;
• ring;
• umbrella.

Features of creating diffuser and umbrella templates

To make a diffuser pattern, it is necessary to make the correct calculation, which will result in a figure with the required contour. To do this, you need to use the option of creating a truncated cone. The following is taken as the data on which the calculation will be based:

• chimney diameter – d1;
• diameter of the circle by the amount by which the diffuser increases in the wide part – d2;
• diffuser height – H.

Preparing the Umbrella Template

It’s easier with an umbrella pattern. It is necessary to draw a circle whose diameter will be equal to 1.7d. Next - two radius lines so that the angle between them is 30°. Then cut out a pattern from cardboard, not forgetting to cut out the area located between the two radius lines.

Templates for the outer ring and inlet pipe have rectangular shape, so making them won’t be difficult.

The procedure for manufacturing the TsAGI deflector

After preparing the templates, work with metal begins. When making a deflector for a pipe with your own hands, do the following:

1. Using patterns, the necessary contours of parts are drawn on the metal. At the same time, 20 mm are added in places of overlap. The lines are drawn with special chalk or a simple pencil.
2. Using metal scissors, cut out the parts along the drawn contour in expanded form.
3. Using a hacksaw, metal strips or a metal corner are cut into pieces of the required length - these pieces will be used to fasten structural parts made of galvanized iron.
4. The cut out elements are bent properly, holes are made in the overlapping areas, and the edges are fixed with rivets.
5. Next, the product is assembled - the elements are drilled in places where they overlap each other, and through the resulting holes the parts are secured relative to each other with rivets.
6. The structure can be attached to the chimney in two ways: make holes for fastening in the inlet pipe, or additionally make a clamp from a metal strip, for which you will need a bolt and nut.

Adapter option for rectangular chimney

Manufacturing a chimney nozzle with a square or rectangular cross-section

By creating a chimney deflector with a square or rectangular cross-section, you can use two design options.

Use of an adapter in the design

Initially, a drawing and a template are prepared, according to which the adapter will be cut out of galvanized steel in expanded form.

Drawing of an adapter for the deflector on chimney with rectangular section

After preparing the patterns, they move on to working with metal:

1. Using a pattern, apply the outline of the adapter to galvanized metal. It is necessary not to forget about the overlap area, adding 20 mm to the contour.
2. Use metal scissors to cut out the product.
3. Then the flat element is bent in such a way as to obtain a product of the desired shape.
4. In the place of overlap, holes for rivets are made using an electric drill.
5. Use a hand riveter to secure the overlapping edges of the adapter.
6. To attach to the chimney, holes are made through which the adapter will be fixed to the pipe using fasteners.
7. At the junction of the device and the adapter, holes are also made for the coupling bolts.

Chimney for a rectangular chimney

Technology for creating a simple chimney

The second option is to make a canopy attached to a rectangular chimney. Anyone can figure out the task of how to make a chimney on a pipe with their own hands, since the design is extremely simple and the calculations are simple.

The drawing is prepared on the basis of calculations, thanks to which the required dimensions of the product are determined. Then, based on the drawing, patterns are created that are used to draw the contours of parts onto a sheet of galvanized iron.

Drawing of a chimney for a rectangular chimney

After preparing the template, we begin to manufacture the product itself:

1. Using patterns, with special chalk the contours of an unfolded smoke umbrella are applied to a sheet of galvanized iron. It is necessary not to forget about the overlap areas, adding 20 mm to the connection of the edges of the part.
2. Using metal scissors, cut out the parts according to the drawn outline.
3. Using a hacksaw, cut a metal strip or corner into pieces of the required length. To fix the deflector on the chimney, it is most convenient to use a corner.
4. The parts cut from the sheet are bent so that the smoke umbrella takes the required shape.
5. Next, the product is assembled by drilling holes in the right places and fixing the parts with rivets.

Option for manufacturing a weather vane deflector

Making your own weather vane deflector

The weather vane allows you to reduce the height of the pipe by increasing traction, since it is always in the right relationship with respect to the wind, prevents precipitation from entering the pipe and decorates the roof.

Tools and consumables for work

To make one of the options for a weather vane on a chimney pipe with your own hands, you need to add to the above tools and materials:

• kit wrenches;
• pipe section;
• a metal (preferably stainless steel) rod or a ready-made pin;
• die for cutting threads on the rod;
• tap for cutting threads for fixing bolts;
• bolts for fixing bearings in the pipe;
• 8 nuts that will need to be screwed onto the rod to secure the bearings and secure the deflector housing.
• two bearings, the size of which is selected according to the diameter of the rod and the internal diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of a deflector in the form of a weather vane

Step-by-step instructions and important notes

Operating procedure:

1. Initially, a drawing is made, according to which patterns for parts are then made from a sheet of galvanized steel.
2. Using patterns, apply the contours of the deflector elements onto a steel sheet with a special chalk or marker.
3. Metal scissors cut out parts from metal sheet.
4. The deflector body is assembled from the prepared elements by drilling holes and fastening them with rivets. You must remember to make brackets with which the body will be mounted on the rod.
5. Cut off a rod or pin of the required length so that it is enough to secure the bearings and fix the deflector body.
6. If a rod is used, the thread is cut using a die.
7. Next, two bearings are attached to the stud with the distance between them necessary to create sufficient support when the deflector-vane rotates. To secure each bearing, first screw on the first nut, then put the bearing on the axle, then screw on the second nut and tighten the nuts until the bearing is well secured.
8. Cut the pipe to the required length.
9. Holes are made in the pipe where the bearings are located. Use a tap to cut the threads for the bolts that will secure the bearings in the pipe. Holes are also prepared for attaching supports that secure the entire device.
10. A ring is made from a steel strip to secure the deflector to the chimney.
11. Cut sections used as supports for attaching the block with bearings to the ring securing the product to the chimney.
12. Execute final assembly products using rivets and fixing bolts.

Decorative weather vane

There are many options on how to make a deflector for a pipe with your own hands. Everyone chooses for themselves what type of device is best suited. It is only necessary to note that such a design, placed on a pipe to remove combustion products, performs several useful functions - it increases draft when removing gases, protects the chimney from debris and precipitation getting inside. After installing the deflector on the chimney, the heating efficiency in the house increases significantly.

Good traction - the most important condition For normal operation any oven. Most often, draft problems are caused by wind, precipitation and debris clogging the chimney. The most convenient and simple solution in such situations is to install a deflector. This device prevents the wind from blowing into the chimney, protects the chimney from precipitation and leaves, and promotes the free removal of combustion products. To correctly install the deflector, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with the features of its design.

The standard device includes three main elements - a cylinder, a diffuser, and a protective cap (umbrella). Additionally, the design is equipped with ring bumpers, which are located in the lower part and around the diffuser. There are several types of deflectors that differ in shape, size and number of elements, but all of them, regardless of type, work on the same principle.

The structure is installed at the very top of the chimney and creates an obstacle to air flow. When the wind hits the walls of the cylinder, it loses its strength and breaks up into many small air currents of low intensity. Some of them rise up the body and capture the smoke coming out of the chimney. This is what increases draft in the chimney duct.

Due to the absence of swirls, smoke and carbon monoxide do not fall back into the pipe, but are completely removed outside. In addition, the deflector prevents the pipe from clogging through the top and performs decorative functions.

It has been proven that after installing the deflector, the efficiency heating device increases by 15-20%. Of course, the deflector itself will not give anything if the chimney is not installed high enough or the cross-section of the connecting pipe is incorrectly selected. The location of the pipe on the roof also matters.

Prices for deflectors

chimney deflector

Types of deflectors

Device type	Characteristics
	The most common option. It has a cylindrical shape and is made of stainless steel or galvanized steel. Connection type – nipple, flange
	The design is similar to the TsAGI deflector, but has slight differences in the upper part. Made from galvanized steel of stainless steel and copper, most often used for chimneys in bathhouses
	An improved version of TsAGI, designed for areas with prevailing low winds. Provides good traction even in calm weather
	Very efficient and simple design open type. Provides high-quality traction regardless of wind direction. Made from galvanized and stainless steel
	Reliable design, effective in any wind direction. Made of stainless steel, the connection is made using a cut-in on the device pipe
	A device with a rotating body and a weather vane attached to the top. Made from stainless steel or painted carbon steel
	The device rotates only in one direction, effectively protects the chimney from clogging and precipitation, and is excellent for gas boilers. Does not work in calm conditions or when icing

The main differences are in the shape of the structure and the number of components. The material for the manufacture of such devices is stainless and galvanized steel, less often copper. They are cylindrical, square, round, open and closed type. Devices of the same type may differ in the upper part: some products are made with a cone-shaped umbrella, others have a gable or hip roof, still others are made flat or with decorative figured elements.

The diameter of the deflector varies from 100-500 mm, the width of the diffuser from 240 to 1000 mm, the height of the structure - from 14 to 60 cm.

The device is attached to the chimney using brackets, clamps, bolts, using sealing tape. For manufacturing, steel with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm is used, depending on the diameter of the deflector itself. Additionally, the device can be equipped with a spark arrester if there is a risk of roof fire.

Installation features

The location of the deflector directly affects the efficiency of its operation. When installing the structure on a chimney, certain conditions must be observed:

Self-production of the device

To work you will need:

• galvanized or stainless steel sheet 0.5-1 mm thick;
• metal scissors;
• riveter;
• drill;
• a sheet of thick paper or cardboard.

Most important stage- drawing up a drawing. To do this, you need to measure the internal diameter of the chimney and calculate the product parameters according to the table.

If the internal diameter of your chimney differs from the parameters given in the table, calculations are performed as follows:

• the diffuser width is 1.2 d;
• width of the protective umbrella – 1.7-1.9 d;
• the total height of the structure is 1.7 d.

Both measurements and calculations must be as accurate as possible so that there are no difficulties during the installation of the structure and its subsequent operation. If the pipe has a square cross-section, then the deflector must be made square, although the angularity of the body slightly reduces the efficiency of the device.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	A life-size drawing of the deflector parts is made on paper and cut out.
Step 2.	The blanks are fastened and fitted to each other. If all the elements match, you can begin cutting the galvanized sheet.
Step 3.	The templates are laid out on galvanized sheets, carefully outlined with a marker, and cut out with metal scissors. On the cuts, the metal is bent 5 mm with pliers and tapped with a hammer.
Step 4.	In places of bends, the metal must be riveted with a hammer to make the edges thinner.
Step 5.	The diffuser blank is rolled into a cylinder, holes for fasteners are drilled and connected with bolts or rivets. You can also use welding, but not arc welding, but semi-automatic, so as not to burn through the metal.
Step 6.	The outer cylinder is made in the same way. Next, the cap blank is rolled into a cone and also connected with rivets or welding.
Step 7	3-4 strips 6 cm wide and up to 20 cm long are cut out of galvanized steel. The strips are folded along both sides and tapped with a hammer along the entire length. From the inside of the cap, at a distance of about 5 cm from the edge, drill around the circumference required quantity holes for bolts. Fasten the galvanized strips to the cap and give them a U-shape.
Step 8	Using these homemade brackets, the cap is attached to the diffuser, and then the entire structure is inserted into the shell.

If the design must have a reverse cone (Grigorovich deflector), the diameter of the protective umbrella is made 3-4 cm larger than the diameter of the cone. After assembling both elements, the cone is applied to the inside of the umbrella and outlined around the perimeter with a marker. Then make two cuts on the protruding part of the umbrella and bend the resulting strip inward. In the same way, make another 6-8 strips at an equal distance from each other, bend them inward and securely fix the reverse cone without additional fasteners and welding.

It is more convenient to attach a cap with a reverse cone to the diffuser with construction pins. To do this, before installing the cone on the umbrella, three holes are drilled around its circumference, the ends of the studs are inserted and the nuts are tightened. Then put the umbrella on top and fix the cone in the manner described above. At the top of the diffuser, with outside, rivet hinges made of tin or aluminum and insert the lower ends of the studs into them. This design withstands strong gusts of wind, serves for a long time and reliably.

In a similar way, you can assemble a deflector of any type, the main thing is to make correct drawing. The only difference will be in the number and shape of parts. The finished device only needs to be mounted on the chimney.

Riveter prices

riveter

Deflector installation

The structure can be installed in two ways - directly on the chimney and on a piece of pipe, which is then put on the smoke exhaust duct. The second method is much more convenient and safer, since the most labor-intensive process is performed below, and not on the roof. Most factory models have a lower fitting that is simply slipped onto the pipe and secured with a metal clamp.

Fixed deflector - photo

To install a homemade deflector, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney and threaded rods.

Step 1. At one end of the pipe, departing 10-15 cm from the cut, mark the drilling locations for fasteners around the circumference. The same marks are placed on the wide part of the diffuser.

Step 2. Drill holes in the diffuser and pipe, try the elements on each other. The top and bottom holes must match exactly, otherwise the fasteners will not be able to be installed smoothly.

Step 3. Thread the pins through the holes and secure them with nuts on both sides on the diffuser and on the pipe. The nuts should be tightened evenly so that the deflector body does not deform.

Step 4. They lift the structure onto the roof, put the pipe on the chimney and secure it with clamps.

It is very important that there are no gaps between the elements in this area, and therefore the clamp must be tightened very tightly. Additionally, you can treat the joint around the perimeter with a heat-resistant sealant.

The installation of such a deflector is performed a little differently, since its design has certain differences. First, three holes are drilled in the chimney at the same level for mounting bolts. The ring part of the device is inserted into the cut of the chimney and secured with bolts. Next, the axle is inserted into the ring bearing, the cylinder is put on it, then the weather vane, and the protective cap. All elements are connected using brackets or rivets.

When choosing a deflector with a weather vane, remember that the bearings require regular lubrication, otherwise the device will not rotate. You should also not allow the hull to become icy, and knock off the ice as soon as it appears.

Prices for weather vane

Video - Chimney deflector

Video - Making a deflector with your own hands

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If you look closely at the chimneys and ventilation pipes of residential buildings, the variety of chimneys on them (deflectors, weather vanes) is amazing. But the main task of the deflector is not to decorate the chimney, but to increase and stabilize draft depending on the weather, and thereby improve the efficiency of the heating device and reduce heating costs. A deflector on a vent pipe can provide energy-independent (and free) supply and exhaust ventilation, see below. But at the same time, there are also plenty of opponents of installing deflectors on the pipes of residential buildings, and they provide compelling arguments in their favor. The purpose of this article is to help the reader understand in what cases it makes sense to install a deflector on a chimney or ventilation, and then how to choose the right one or make it yourself.

The most important question

Before selecting or making a deflector for a pipe, you need to decide - is it needed at all? The deflector may freeze, be covered with soot or carbon deposits (coked), clogged with fallen leaves, wind-blown debris or dust. In any of these cases, if the deflector is on the chimney, the inhabitants of the house are at risk of getting burned. The deflector does not increase the efficiency of a furnace or boiler much, but it requires regular inspection and cleaning. At least once every 3 months for solid fuel stoves and at least once every six months for gas, liquid fuel or pyrolysis stoves and boilers. For more information on the dangers that can result from installing an unsuitable deflector on a pipe, see the video:

Video: what are the dangers of deflectors, umbrellas and weather vanes on a chimney?

Therefore, if you have an old wood or coal stove, but the draft is not good and the wind is blowing into the chimney, instead of a complex deflector it is better to install a simple chimney, for example. umbrella or tent. And in other cases, you need to thoroughly understand which deflector is needed for this particular stove/boiler with this particular chimney. It is also important not to confuse a smoke deflector with a ventilation one - small traders and the authors of some popular publications do not see or do not make the difference between them.

Evolution of the deflector

Deflectio in Latin means “I reflect” in the sense of “throwing away.” Not directed in a certain way, like a reflector, but just to the side. A cap for a chimney pipe made of skins, large shells, etc. already installed primitive people to avoid wind blowing into the pipe.

The role of the deflector in creating thrust, its stabilization despite the vagaries of the weather and the ability of the deflector to increase the efficiency of heat-generating devices was first seriously thought about at TsAGI almost 100 years ago on the instructions of the newly hatched Soviet government. Before that, heating engineers tried to improve chimneys for this purpose. Have you seen in old photographs the huge pot-bellied pipes of American steam locomotives, like an inverted pear, or the long thin ones of English ones with a rosette at the top?

At TsAGI, the venerable aircraft designer D. P. Grigorovich worked on deflectors in creative collaboration with A. F. Volpert, who was fluent in mathematical apparatus. The latter is also, and even more, known for his work in the field of radio engineering (Wolpert-Smith diagram, etc.). Together and separately, Grigorovich and Volpert developed several types of deflectors for various purposes, therefore, various deflectors of Grigorovich, Volpert and Volpert-Grigorovich are described in the specialized literature.

Grigorovich began by aerodynamically correctly calculating an ordinary smoke umbrella, pos. 1 in Fig. This has already significantly improved the performance of the device; Grigorovich cone - remember, it will be very useful. Wolpert proposed to equip the umbrella deflector with an aerodynamic skirt-diffuser (item 2), but the deflector remained aerodynamically imperfect, see below. It was supplemented with a streamlined body of rotation instead of a cap and a cylindrical body-shell. In the end, after repeated blowing in a wind tunnel, the government commission was presented with a TsAGI deflector (item 3), which fully satisfied the issued technical specifications and far exceeded it.

The TsAGI deflector is still the most common in the world due to its technical excellence. There are modifications of them for different purposes, see below. But other developments of Grigorovich and Volpert were not in vain - most models of modern smoke deflectors are developed on their basis. Which one is more suitable for what, we will talk about this further.

Types and schemes

The entire variety of trade names of smoke deflectors fits into a limited number of design types and aerodynamic designs. First of all, in terms of interaction with natural traction Chimney deflectors are divided into:

• Active - with a built-in working smoke exhauster. To ensure the specified characteristics of the deflector, the smoke exhauster must operate continuously while it is burning in the firebox.
• Active-passive - a low-power smoke exhauster for extreme cases: complete calm, storm, excessively intense fire, etc. The minimum permissible technical characteristics of the chimney are ensured even when the smoke exhauster is turned off.
• Passive-active - the deflector creates a small amount of its own thrust in a non-volatile way.
• Passive – there is no deflector’s own draft.

Active deflectors as energy-dependent and not optimal for home heating devices low power we do not consider further. Of the active-passive ones, we will consider one, designed for a low-power 12 V fan and suitable for DIY manufacture.

According to the aerodynamic design of the chimney deflector, it is possible to make a trace. way (above in the figure):

1. Aerodynamically imperfect (incomplete) - in the space occupied by the deflector there is a “pocket” - a weathering area in which accumulation of air, flue gases or a mixture of them is possible;
2. Aerodynamically fully open - there is no wind pocket, but the wind has free access to the working space of the deflector;
3. Aerodynamically perfect closed - there is no wind pocket, the wind does not have free access to the working space;
4. Deflector-vane (see below);
5. Vortex deflector.

An aerodynamically perfect closed deflector is the most complex structurally and technologically, but has a huge advantage: due to heating of the shell, almost all aerodynamically perfect closed deflectors provide their own energy-independent thrust. This is the only passive type of deflector that can increase the natural draft of a chimney in complete calm.

Note: an aerodynamically perfect closed deflector is the TsAGI deflector mentioned above. This aerodynamic design was invented precisely at TsAGI.

Vortex deflectors are easily recognized by their “ragged” design with sharp protrusions. In their aerodynamics, as in vortex aerodynamics in general, there is still much that is unclear (the Navier-Stokes equation was solved in general view just 2 years ago). Predict the behavior of a vortex deflector for any external conditions It’s definitely not possible with any chimney. Therefore, vortex deflectors are not considered further. Whether or not to believe their manufacturers is your own business.

Aerodynamics

There are enough diagrams of flue gas flow in deflectors in publicly available sources. But from the point of view of the homeowner and the craftsman, the nature of the interaction of the deflector with the natural draft of the chimney and the wind in the wake is more important. aspects:

• Will the deflector worsen the original draft?
• Is the deflector capable of increasing the initial thrust in calm conditions?
• How much and how does the deflector increase wind loads on the pipe?
• How prone is the deflector of this design to icing/clogging and is it easy to clean?

Then it is better to consider the wind not according to the meteorological scale, but according to the rough gradation of force and the dynamics of the velocity field:

1. calm;
2. weak/medium (moderate) – up to 6 points on the weather scale;
3. strong – 6-8 points;
4. very strong – over 8 points;
5. gusty - the wind of any strength is really gusty, or sharp (strongly sloping up or down), or turbulent.

An idea of ​​the aerodynamic properties of passive smoke deflectors is given in Fig. higher.

Simple cap

An ordinary chimney smoker in the form of an umbrella, if it is made in the form of a Grigorovich cone, is not so bad:

• With a massive heat-intensive chimney, it keeps the draft within the permissible limits for a wood/coal stove in even winds up to a severe storm (10 points).
• In any wind, up to hurricane force, it does not create destructive loads on the pipe; It's more likely to break loose and fly away.
• Structurally simple.
• It is slightly coked and clogged, and is easy to clean as part of the annual inspection and maintenance of the chimney.
• Due to imperfect aerodynamics, it is little sensitive to the configuration of the umbrella. If the house is in the wind, the chimney-umbrella can be made into a tent (see figure on the right), which simplifies the work and provides greater opportunities for its design.
• With a 2-3 channel chimney (see below) it provides technical performance (except for increased draft in calm conditions) no worse than an aerodynamically perfect closed deflector.

The disadvantages of an imperfect smoke deflector are also quite serious:

1. In calm conditions, the initial draft decreases the more strongly, the more intensively the stove is heated. What is especially dangerous in the harsh, quiet winter: the stove can choke and puff out fumes.
2. In strong winds it can create excess draft, which sharply reduces the efficiency of compact channel stoves (for example, Dutch ones with 2.5-3.5 bricks) and fireplaces.
3. In very strong/gusty winds, blowing into the pipe and causing reverse draft cannot be ruled out.

In general, an imperfect deflector-umbrella is the optimal smoke vent for a brick chimney of a properly built and well-maintained solid fuel house stove, operated in places where hurricanes and storms are extremely rare. There are ways to make a smoke umbrella uninflated (see below), but they complicate it to the point that most often you have to choose an aerodynamically complete or perfect deflector.

Open

The aerodynamically open deflector does not reduce the initial draft and, in any wind, keeps it within the limits acceptable for stoves and boilers using solid, liquid fuel and gas. It freezes quite heavily, becomes coked and littered, but is easily accessible for cleaning. Its disadvantages are:

• A streamlined body of rotation instead of a cap is a technologically complex unit.
• The resulting vector of wind loads is such that an aerodynamically open deflector tends to collapse the pipe, while an umbrella tends to fly off it.
• In winds stronger than force 8, the lateral load on the pipe increases sharply and then grows according to a power law.
• It does not absorb dynamic loads from gusts of wind well, so an open deflector cannot be installed on a brick pipe.
• Unsuitable for pyrolysis heat-generating devices: in a strong wind it immediately sucks out the pyrolysis gases and the stove/boiler goes out.
• Not very suitable for design: blotches and figures spoil the overall aerodynamics. The only places where it is possible to place decorations are the upper pole of the body of rotation and the lower edge of the diffuser (see below).

Note: At one time, we and the USA conducted experiments on the use of open deflectors on steam locomotives to increase efficiency at low speed. The result was disastrous - at mid-speed a tongue of flame appeared from the pipe, and none of them could accelerate to the design speed.

In general, an aerodynamically open deflector is suitable for all types of heating devices, except pyrolysis ones. Provided that the deflector is inspected and cleaned at least once every 2 months, and the draft is checked before each firebox. Very well suited for chimneys with insufficient draft and, especially, for sauna stoves: there have been no cases of fires in saunas due to an open deflector. Properly heating a bathhouse is not an easy task, and checking the deflector will not significantly complicate it.

Note: There are types of open deflectors that create virtually no lateral loads on the pipe and are suitable for fragile ceramic and glass chimneys, see fig. on right. However, in open body rotation, dust, debris and soot accumulate, which spoils the aerodynamics of the device, and it is difficult to clean it. Therefore, manufacturers recommend such products only for gas boilers in places with not very dusty air.

Perfect

The advantages of an aerodynamically perfect closed deflector are partially indicated above. Besides:

• The aerodynamically perfect closed deflector ensures stable draft in any external conditions, sufficient for any household stoves and boilers.
• It does not clog or freeze inside, and ice and dust outside have little effect on its operation.
• With minor modifications it is suitable for use as both smoke and ventilation non-volatile, see below.
• It perfectly absorbs dynamic loads from wind gusts and is therefore suitable for installation on pipes made of any materials.
• 2-3-4 chimneys can converge into one oval, triangular or square shell in a bundle.

The disadvantages of a closed deflector are not so significant:

1. The lateral force on the pipe in a strong wind gives more than an open one, but then with increasing wind it increases linearly, i.e. the pipe under the open deflector can always be reinforced or reinforced with guy wires.
2. Quite complex structurally and technologically.
3. Unsuitable for design: any blotches and figures spoil the overall aerodynamics, and the coloring only enhances the utilitarian appearance of the deflector.

Technological tricks

The first rule is don’t make chimneys like gable roof or cylinder vault (see figure on the right). These are suitable for their intended purpose only for mobile devices, when the axis of the umbrella can be arbitrarily oriented with the wind. Or as decorative for a false chimney. There is such a fashion in houses with bio-fireplaces. And in other cases, the craving will follow the will of the elements, even to the contrary.

Next, to make a chimney deflector with your own hands, you need to master some tinsmithing techniques. First of all, connecting the sheets into a fold (fold), or folding, see fig. below. Most often, the parts of the deflectors are connected with a single standing seam, but for umbrellas of imperfect deflectors, a double standing seam is sometimes used for decorative purposes.

Round umbrella:

Pyramidal (tent) umbrella with the top in the center:

Elongated faceted umbrella:

Transition from a square to a circle (a square inside a circle):

Very important for closed baffles for low-power furnaces and boilers, see below.

Moving from circle to circle:

All these patterns can be constructed using only a ruler and a compass - a goat's leg (into which a pencil is inserted. Well, for those who are inclined to in-depth study basics, before getting down to business, we provide a selection of projections and formulas for accurately constructing part developments. Pay attention to the elongated umbrellas: they are placed on 2-3 way chimneys. Smoke channels, each of the minimum cross-section allowed for a given heating device, are placed in a row. The probability of blowing out 2 channels at once is extremely small, and all 3 are practically absent.

Here in Fig. - data for constructing a truncated cone, of which there are more than enough in deflectors. The initial data is the height of the cone H, the radii of the apex and base R1, R2. Also pay attention to the inset marked in red: this is a development of the same Grigorovich cone. The forming angle (in this case 30 degrees) is found as φ = arcsin(H/r), where H is the height of the cone and r is the radius of the base. The radius R is determined similarly to L for a truncated cone, but H and r are squared. However, for those who have not forgotten the Pythagorean theorem, this is already clear.

After the cones, it will not be difficult to figure out the development of a single-center tent, see fig. There is only one “but”: the allowance in the example of the pattern (on the right in the figure) is given based on a single riveting (for strength) solder seam.

To connect metal up to 0.6 mm thick into a single fold, an allowance of 20 mm must be taken on one side, and 21+2+20 mm on the other. If the metal is 0.6-1.5 mm, then 30 and 31.5+3+30 mm respectively. But, generally speaking, a seam soldered and riveted at the edge is easier to make, it looks neater and resists corrosion better than a folded one. If the roof is covered with iron, then, of course, riveting and soldering the sheets is simply technically impossible. But the deflector umbrella is a different matter. It is assembled by soldering and riveting like this:

1. Mark and cut out the development;
2. Drill holes for the rivet;
3. Bend the sides (wings) of the allowance inward at 90 degrees;
4. Rivet the edge;
5. The sides are compressed through wooden backing bars with clamps;
6. Solder the seam.

In a similar way, a sweep is built and the hip tent (umbrella) of the chimney is assembled, see fig.

And finally, the most complex detail: the diffuser of an aerodynamically perfect closed deflector, also known as an adapter-skirt from a square to a circle (circle inside) for installing a smoke umbrella on a brick pipe. The construction rules are not complicated (see figure), but they require precision and accuracy in work.

Note: additionally equalize the draft of the open and imperfect deflectors by round pipe, and also the probability of blowing into the latter can be reduced to negligible if the diffuser/skirt generatrix is ​​bent inward, see fig. But the work is so complicated - after assembling the adapter from circle to circle, it needs to be knocked out on a block of hard wood.

Constructions

Now let's see what is possible and how to make a deflector for a chimney yourself. It's easiest to start with an imperfect umbrella deflector; its capabilities are much wider than it might seem, and few materials and not very complicated work are required.

What can an umbrella do?

In the climatic conditions of the Russian Federation, a deflector-umbrella on a chimney is most often sufficient, especially since there is no evidence of waste caused by it either. But - if the smoke umbrella is made correctly. The most common mistake is that the cap is raised too high on the racks. This will not help return 100% of the original draft, but the likelihood of blowing into the pipe increases sharply.

The correct dimensions of the deflector-umbrella for the chimney are given on the left in Fig. For pipes with a clearance of 100-200 mm in diameter, they decrease proportionally, and then the value of H1 increases by 1.3 times for pipes of 150-200 mm and 1.6 times for pipes of 100-150 mm.

On the right in Fig. the dimensions of an uninflated deflector-umbrella are given, but in the conditions of the Russian Federation it is better to install it on ventilation pipe natural ventilation, because the mesh quickly becomes overgrown with soot or flue gas condensate, and then dust sticks to it very well.

It also does not blow out, retains the original draft and even slightly increases it with a two-story deflector-umbrella. The diagram of its action is given in pos. 1 next rice.:

For chimneys of low-power household stoves/boilers (up to approximately 40 kW), it can be simplified by making the floors the same, pos. 2. Each floor is a Grigorovich cone cut in half in height (see above); the distance between floors is equal to the height of the floor. The upper floor is gabled, i.e. the cut off top of the cone is closed with a blind lid. A 3-story umbrella for a ventilation pipe (item 3) freezes less often and clogs less than an umbrella with a mesh. For pipes 130-200 mm, the dimensions change proportionally. And finally, the Kiryushkin deflector (item 3; all cones are Grigorovich) is used primarily as an active-passive one - a low-power smoke exhauster at 12 V 100-200 mA is placed under the small cone.

TsAGI

Before taking on the aerodynamically open deflector, let's see how it is modified for a private house TsAGI's most advanced deflector. Its original design was designed primarily for industrial facilities and then for apartment buildings.

Drawings of 3 versions of the TsAGI deflector are shown in Fig. The dimensions of the original industrial version are shown at the top right. Not completely, because It is designed for a durable pipe and certainly not for a sandwich chimney. For a chimney of a private household, a Khanzhenkov deflector operating according to the same scheme (on the left in the figure) is more suitable. It produces less horizontal wind load and can be inserted into a pipe as described below.

And on the right in Fig. – dimensions of the TsAGI ventilation deflector. It can be converted from passive to passive-active by painting the shell with blacksmith's putty or other paint that well absorbs thermal radiation from the earth and objects surrounding the house. Of course, you should leave the fans in the vents of your home ventilation system, but you will have to turn them on occasionally. How to make a TsAGI deflector with your own hands, see video

Video: do-it-yourself TsAGI deflector made of metal tiles

Note: a ventilation deflector is not such a luxury as it might seem. When the wind blows through the vents, the bathroom is cold, and kitchen fumes and toilet odors are carried throughout the house. Fire valves do not solve the problem - if they slam shut, the bathroom and kitchen are stuffy.

What comes out of cones

Of the open type deflectors, the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector is the most accessible and, based on the entire range of technical indicators, is optimal for private households. Although, only they themselves knew how much of both there actually was in it.

The canonical (based on TsAGI studies) proportions of the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector are given in pos. 1 pic:

On the left is a modification for an asbestos-cement pipe, which holds longitudinal loads well, but is fragile across it. The doubled height of the upper cone forming the body of rotation gives a greater lifting force, tending to tear the deflector off the pipe, but a tight clamp will hold it in any wind. For pipes 130-180 mm inside, the dimensions change proportionally.

Note: For another version of the homemade Volpert-Grigorovich deflector, see next. video clip:

Video: Volpert Grigorovich deflector to increase draft in the furnace

Weather vanes

Pipe deflectors - weather vanes are also called weather vanes. Sometimes all chimneys in general are called this, but this is incorrect, because... A weather vane is, by definition, a rotating device.

The deflector on the pipe - weather vane can be made rotary, self-orienting and rotating. The latter are also called turbo deflectors, and self-orienting smoke teeth, which is also incorrect. The smoke tooth is part of the chimney of an English fireplace. Weakness all weather vane deflectors - bearing. It becomes very easily clogged and covered with soot, and the seals are subject to increased wear. Therefore, you need to inspect the weather vane deflector at least once every 2 months. But the weather vane deflector itself almost never becomes overgrown with the main enemy of all fixed deflectors - icicles.

Pipe deflectors - weather vanes

A multi-bladed weather vane deflector (items 1 and 2 in the figure) provides stable draft in winds of up to 9-10 points with minor loads on the pipe, so it can be installed on sandwich, ceramic and glass chimneys. A single-blade weather vane deflector puts a lot of stress on the pipe in a strong wind, so it must be strong and the house must be located in a place where the storm wind will not blow up. But a single-bladed weather vane deflector can easily be designed in the shape of a bird (items 3 and 4).

Turbo deflector (item 5) – remember and don’t trust anyone – not smoke! It is ventilated or for gas boilers with electric ignition. The turbine rotates both by the wind and by the air current in the pipe, and a correctly made turbine, as in some types of wind engines, is self-spinning: the weakest initial thrust or a light breath of breeze is enough for the turbine to spin and draw air, and it will stop only when the thrust , and the wind will stop completely. In a house ventilation system with turbo deflectors, you have to turn on the fans in the vents, as they say, once a year, not every year. Unfortunately, the turbo deflector is easily filled with dust and debris from the air, so it also needs to be checked at least once every 2 months.

The technical properties of the turbo deflector are the same as those of a multi-bladed self-orienting one, but it loads the pipe even less. It is quite possible to make a turbo deflector with your own hands, see the video below.

Video: DIY turbo deflector

How to install a deflector

It is possible to install a deflector on the pipe only if the chimney is made exactly according to the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, pos. 1 in Fig. below. It is highly desirable that the pipe on which the deflector will be installed is located on the roof slope leeward relative to the direction of the prevailing winds. For reference, leeward means opposite to the direction from which the wind is blowing.

It is certainly possible to attach the deflector to the otter (the upper extension of the brick pipe) only if the pipe was originally designed for the deflector. If not, or there are even the slightest irregularities in the pipe laying, the deflector must be attached to it as shown in pos. 2 rice:

1. A strong sleeve (glass; square-circle adapter) C is inserted into the pipe;
2. The glasses are secured with blind anchors A at a level no higher than the bottom row of the otter masonry and with embedded pins Z in the grooves at the mouth of the pipe. Anchors and mortgages are walled up cement-sand mortar from M200;
3. A diffuser/skirt D with a cornice (reflection) K is placed on the glass. Mandatory for a deflector of any design, incl. imperfect!
4. The diffuser is attached only to the masonry with small anchor bolts. Not with self-tapping screws in plastic dowels! The skirt/diffuser is not attached to the glass!
5. The working structure of the deflector is firmly secured to the collar (top edge) of the skirt/diffuser.

Only with this method of fastening will the deflector never loosen an old and/or undesigned brick pipe.