Independent finishing of the interior of the house with clapboard. Lathing for lining - how to make a strong and reliable foundation for the structure Frame elements for a lining ceiling

Who among us does not dream of a house decorated with natural wood? It is beautiful, reliable, and most importantly, it looks attractive. The best option for realizing your dream can be considered covering the walls with clapboard, and doing it is actually very simple, even with your own hands.

But the difficulty lies not in installing the panels, this is precisely the simplest stage, but installing the sheathing is much more difficult. And in this article we will tell you how to install a frame under the lining, and we will reveal several secrets that real professionals use in their work.

Preparatory work

Any work should begin with careful and thoughtful preparation, and if we tell you how much lining will be needed for repairs, we will not be able to, since this is an individual question, but here’s detailed list tools and materials we can.

So, let's get started with what we need to install the frame and lining:

Wood saw. The first and most important tool in our work. Be sure to make sure that all the teeth are carefully sharpened, otherwise burrs may appear on the wood, and if this is not so bad during the manufacture of the frame, then certain difficulties may arise when finishing with clapboard.
Building level. Ideally, it would come with a laser pointer, but since such a tool is quite expensive and not everyone can afford it, you can get by with the usual level with a water pointer.

Hammer. Of course, what kind of repair would be done without this tool? A hammer is something that any craftsman should always have at hand, regardless of what material he is working with.
Hammer or drill. What we mean here is not just one, but it is advisable to have both tools, depending on what material your walls are made of. If it is concrete or brick, then only a hammer drill will do the job, but if it is wood or other lightweight material, then a regular drill will do the job just fine.

Screwdriver or screwdriver. If you don’t have a screwdriver, you can do without it, but it will take much longer to tighten the screws with just a screwdriver.
Paint brushes. They will come in handy at one of the stages, but more on that below.

Well, and of course, a tape measure and a pencil, which are simply a must-have in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

A tape measure and a pencil are attributes of any construction worker and not only, these tools should always be in the house

Advice! If your walls are built of aerated concrete, then it is better to refuse to use a hammer drill, because due to its high power, it will simply break holes in this lightweight material, and the dowel will not stay there.

So, we have the tool at hand, and we can safely move on to the next stage.

Preparing the walls

Many people simply ignore and skip this stage, and in vain, because it will determine how long and how well the entire finish will last. Sooner or later, condensation begins to accumulate on any walls.

It is almost impossible to get rid of it, but it can be prevented Negative consequences that it causes, such as mildew or mildew.

For this we need a special impregnation for walls. deep penetration with an antiseptic in the composition. By itself, it will not get rid of fogging on your walls, but it will create such a microenvironment that harmful bacteria simply cannot live in it, and, therefore, spores will not appear.

As for any recommendations at this stage, we can only say one thing: do not skimp on the primer, the more it is applied, the better. It’s better to spend a couple of extra thousand rubles on it now than to deal with blue spots on the lining later.

Preparation of frame elements

Most often, the frame is made of wooden beams. The thickness is not important here, the question is rather about the convenience of fastening. Of course you can also use metallic profile for drywall, but then attaching the lining will be somewhat more difficult.

We will consider the option with a wooden block, and it, like the lining itself, requires additional protection in the form of impregnation. It protects the wood from molding and does not allow bugs to grow inside the material. Therefore, we take in our hands the brush that we have prepared in advance and liberally apply impregnation to all sides of the bar.

Here, too, it is better to forget about saving, since the frame has direct contact with the wall, which means it is much more susceptible to all sorts of negative influences.

Now that the impregnation has been applied to the timber, it must be left to dry. This process can take several hours, or even a day, which means we have time for the next stage.

Advice! Work with impregnation only in a well-ventilated area or, even better, outside, as the strong smell can cause headaches, and moreover, it can stay indoors for several weeks.

Frame installation

Installation wooden lining the frame, which is made of wood, is always made perpendicular to the direction of the panels. That is, if you place the panels vertically, then the sheathing will go horizontally, and accordingly, vice versa.

This is the main rule that must not be forgotten, otherwise, you simply will not succeed. So, first of all, we need to mark our prepared walls, and for this we will need a tape measure, a pencil and a level.

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

We retreat about two or three centimeters from the highest point on the floor and put a mark.
In the same way we find the most low point ceiling and also mark a small indentation from it.
Now, guided by the level, draws two horizontal lines from our marks along the entire perimeter of the room. This is where our outermost guide battens will go.
Next, we measure the distance between our lines and divide it exactly in half. From this mark, we also draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter.

Now, we divide each resulting section into two more, and so on until the distance between the nearest lines is approximately 40-60 centimeters. This is quite enough to prevent the lining from sagging over time.
The next step is to find the attachment points of the plumb lines, and to do this, all the lines we have drawn need to be divided into segments of approximately 50 centimeters, and mark them with a pencil in these places.

That’s it, the markings are ready and you can proceed directly to installation, but before you pick up a drill or hammer drill, we strongly recommend that you watch the video in this article. It talks about installation wooden frame for lining using timber, and also given detailed instructions, which will help you clearly understand the whole process.

We mount the frame

Well, now the time has come for the most labor-intensive, noisy and dirty stage of our work. Now, in each mark that we made on the horizontal lines, we need to drill holes. There will be metal plumb lines at these marks, to which we will in turn fix the block, which should have been completely dry by this time.

Important! Carefully monitor the depth of the hole being drilled. It should be slightly deeper than the length of the selected mounting dowel. If it turns out to be insufficient, the dowel will not press the plumb line to the base, but pulling it back will be very, very problematic.

We hammer the dowels into the resulting holes, threaded through the central hole of the plumb line, and hammer the fasteners until they stop completely. That's it, the first element is ready, and in the same way we attach all the other plumbs.

Now, it’s time to fasten the timber, and the most important thing here is to maintain the level. That is, all segments of the sheathing must be strictly parallel to each other.

On plumb lines for such purposes there is great amount holes, so you shouldn’t have any special difficulties.

And in conclusion

Well, that’s probably all that can be said about installing the frame for fastening the lining. As you can see from the photo, video and description, there is nothing complicated about this, and in order to do it yourself you will not need many years of experience and special knowledge.

By the way, the price of finishing done yourself is much lower than if you hired specialists, which means our article will help you really save family budget.

Do-it-yourself lining is done quite simply and does not require special qualifications, so if you delve into this process, you can install the lining yourself, while saving a considerable amount on the work of a craftsman.

It is also worth noting that modern additional elements for lining, called moldings (they are shown in the figure), make the installation process easier.

Work begins with the installation of guides, which should be mounted across the direction of the future lining. Together, ready for cladding, these guides form a frame for the lining (frame for lining).

Used for wooden lining wooden slats as guides, for plastic ones - metal ones using “U”-shaped holders.

U-shaped holders are used in the construction of all types of frames for plasterboard structures.

Wooden guides are pre-primed with an alkyd primer or special impregnation to protect the wood from moisture. In addition, they must be free of cracks and knots over the entire width and thickness of the guide (beam).

The installation of vertical guides begins with fixing the corner rails level on dowels in increments of 40 cm, then pulling the cords - on top of the rail, in the middle, below. Intermediate guides are installed along the cords.

If in the process of installing the guides it is necessary to make a gap between the wall and the guide (for example, if there is a hole on the wall and the guide is drowned in it and does not reach the cord, or the surface is deviated from the level), then it can be placed on gypsum mortar and after it sets, secure it with dowels, but it is better to place wooden wedges under the guide.

Horizontal guides are installed in a similar way. The first guide is installed on top, the bottom one is installed along plumb lines that are applied to the edges of the installed upper guide.

Thermal insulation of polystyrene foam or glass wool can be laid between the guides at their thickness.

The lining is attached to a wooden frame using self-tapping screws, nails, clamps or staples; when working on a metal frame, nails and staples are not used.

There are two ways of facing with clapboard: with hidden fastenings and with open fastenings. In utility rooms you can use cladding with open fastenings, but in residential premises it makes sense to use closed method fastenings

The figure shows examples of closed fastenings on a wooden frame, as well as brackets for fastening lining on metal frame. In addition, the bracket can also be attached to a wooden frame, but using nails to fix the bracket to a wooden beam (guide). They are attached to the metal profile using frame screws with flattened tips, called “fleas”.

Lathing under the lining greatly simplifies the process of external and internal finishing; even the additional troubles of arranging it should not be exaggerated. The benefits of this stage are significant, especially if you have noticeable defects on the walls, which will not allow you to install the lining directly on a steep surface.

Why is it necessary to install sheathing under the lining?

Regardless of the material of the lining, whether it is natural or not, the main factor determining the quality of the finish is the degree of evenness of the wall on which it will be attached. Everyone knows that planks can be attached directly to the wall, but each defect (depression, bulge) will cause a slight distortion or difference in the level of the rows, etc. Why will the imperfection move from row to row, gaining more and more visual strength, and in the end your last row will be completely askew, and you won’t be able to close it or correct it in any way.

To prevent deformities from occurring, they first install the sheathing under the lining, and this technique is used in almost 99% of cases, because it is ideal smooth walls neither in old Soviet houses nor in new ones. Even if outwardly you do not see unevenness, test the wall using a level or plumb line, measure its length at the bottom and at the top, and the hidden enemy of a beautiful finish will be revealed. The essence of the lathing is simple: it is a kind of mesh made of wood or metal (plastic is also found today), which helps to raise the lining above the wall, and the evenness and attractiveness of the finish will depend only on the level of the lathing, but the imperfections of the wall will be hidden under this frame.

Lathing for lining - choosing material

Today, there are three types of materials for sheathing, all of them have their own advantages and disadvantages; we will try to briefly touch on the most important ones. Let's start, perhaps, with wood, as the most familiar and accessible material to us. Bars with a parameter of 2.5-5 cm are used under the sheathing. This range is given to be able to choose the optimal option for different types lining, because it also comes not only from wood. Basically, you should focus on the fact that the frame must support the weight of the finish and not burden the room, taking up excess space. After all, to fasten light lining it is not at all worth taking the largest bars.

But everyone knows the disadvantages of wood: easy flammability and intolerance to moisture. Of course, today all this can be solved with the help of numerous impregnations, but you can change your habits a little and choose a metal profile. These are galvanized corners, from which the same mesh-like frame is built, onto which the lining dies are then attached. It does not have the disadvantages of wood, but has its own, for example, a high price. The plastic frame is not at all as accessible as the previous two, and is very specific; it is produced more often for special needs than for common use. Therefore, it can be ignored.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required quantity linings.

How to make a sheathing for lining - methods of fastening

Counting the number required material for the sheathing, they start with the project, that is, how it will look (the mesh or guides will be in only one plane), what size the planks of the lining are planned, which will be used for finishing, whether the room will be insulated (then the insulation is placed in the sheathing). When calculating the geometry, you should remember that first a frame is made around the perimeter, and then intermediate ribs of the sheathing are mounted at the same distance from each other. The distance between them should be such that the lining strips do not bend.

If the planks are long, then several supporting elements of the sheathing should be placed under them. If you use insulation, you should also take into account its dimensions, for example, the parameters of a mineral wool sheet. Moreover, the sheathing cell needs to be made a little narrower (literally a centimeter) so that the insulation fits tightly. At the stage of creating the sheathing, all communications are laid; they will successfully hide under the lining, without bothering the eye on top of the finish; this, so to speak, is an additional bonus of using this frame.

The location of the lathing can be horizontal (the bars are located only parallel to the floor), vertical (perpendicular to the floor) and using a counter-lattice (this is the mesh-like frame). The latter option is rarely used; then another layer of bars is attached perpendicularly on top of one layer, resulting in a grid with square cells. This is done when using insulation or for increased ventilation of the finish.. And the direction of a conventional sheathing is determined only by the location of the lining strips; the bars and trim strips must be perpendicular.

If the lining is attached parallel to the floor, then the sheathing bars should be vertical; when the planks are located perpendicular to the floor, then the sheathing should be horizontal.

How to make a wooden sheathing?

If your choice fell on wooden sheathing, then further you will find everything necessary advice and recommendations for correct installation. We will not discuss how to make sheathing for lining from other materials due to their rare use in private repairs.

How to make a wooden sheathing - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the Frame

The frame is considered to be the perimeter, that is, the basis of the foundations, so you will outline the boundaries and know total area, which needs to be covered with intermediate slats located at the same distance from each other. Already at this stage, all defects in the wall should be carefully leveled, because the frame will be used as a guide for filling and leveling all intermediate support elements. To do this, actively use a plumb line or building level(depending on the direction of the sheathing). In case of uneven contact of the block with the wall, place substrates (wedges) under it. This way you will achieve a flat surface that will rest securely on the wall and not dangle in the air.

Sometimes you will have to work in reverse order, do not put additional material, and grind down the existing one, make the bars a little thinner to level the base. To understand whether to lay down material or cut it off, when marking, you need to determine the nature and number of irregularities in the wall, calculate the most protruding part, the amount of its protrusion, as well as the number and nature of more minor defects. After weighing all this, you can decide what will be more practical and easier to do.

Step 2: Frame installation

Having marked everything and determined how to eliminate defects, it’s time to attach the guides around the perimeter. This is done with dowels and screws, and the fasteners should meet every 25 cm. Having created the edging of the sheathing, check the uniformity of the created plane with a level. The frame also includes fastening the beams around the openings for windows and doors; they also need to be surrounded, as it were, with a wooden border in order to properly secure the lining there.

Step 3: Creating the intermediate part of the sheathing

Now all the remaining material for the planned project is being filled in. Do not try to place the ends of the intermediate bars close to the frame along the perimeter, and there is no point in connecting them. Leave a small gap in case the wood expands or shrinks, so that these parts do not warp each other in case seasonal changes. They also need to be secured with dowels and screws, so even without fixing them to the frame, the intermediate elements will hold together well.

You should start fastening each beam in two places - one screw at the top and bottom. Then examine the entire wall, which defects fall under the fixed beam, determine the type of substrate, level the plane using a level or plumb line, and only then fasten the entire structure with a screw. This is how each batten of the sheathing is verified, and as it is ready, periodically inspect everything to ensure compliance.

Step 4: Finish work

When you have secured all the beams, you should do a final level check. Why do we place such emphasis on this in every step, because this is why the lathing is done, in order to perfectly align the wall. Otherwise, finishing with clapboard will immediately reveal the imperfections of your home, so mistakes here are unacceptable. If the check shows that the wall has become level, you need to do finishing touch– treat the wood with impregnations against mold, fungi and fire. After they have dried, you can begin the planned finishing of the room.

Ceilings made of lining look simply gorgeous, in modern style and emphasize individual design rooms. The characteristic stripes that are formed as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious and the ceilings perfectly smooth.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with and virtually anyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of ceiling frames

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing lining on the ceiling, you need to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate uneven and unsightly surfaces from your future new ceilings. The frame will also allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the entire structure with good strength.

The ceiling lining is sewn on top of the frame, so you will need lathing in any case, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is much simpler to make than a frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use either simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and finishing material– clapboard can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of installing the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Lining - panel

Simulates normal wooden beam and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology promotes better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various evaporations. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration it is used more often than Lining-Shtil, since the cost of Eurolining is much cheaper.

Lining – Shtil

The material has perfect smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front part of the board. Used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Lining – American

Simulates the laying of boards overlapping, as a result of which the joint between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used for exterior decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with lining, and with wood in general, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your lining ceilings are flawless.

An ordinary hammer.
A screwdriver or a drill with a hammer.
and a construction corner.
Accurate tape measure.
Jigsaw or hacksaw.
Metal scissors, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for lining ceilings must be selected according to previously drawn up calculations. Timber for a wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the timber, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 beams.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the beams, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then the family budget will be depleted much more. Since the number of frame components will increase significantly and you will additionally need:

Guide profile – UD.
The profile underlying the frame is CD.
Fastenings “Crab” and “U” - shaped fastenings.
Self-tapping screws for metal.

To install the lining itself on the frame, you can use construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then you can use ordinary nails.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will check the horizontalness of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary first and to increase fire safety.

Wooden beams are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the beams should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only elegant, but also improved, for example: then in this case the step between the beams should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” mineral wool or other heat and soundproofing material They are also 60 centimeters wide. The bottom edge of all beams should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the beams. Be sure to use a water level.

Along two walls we fasten two beams with different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. We clearly check the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the beams. Next, we continue to install the beams in increments of 60 centimeters, checking our work using a level at different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to place wooden pads, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and use it to fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining.

If you are not sure of the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional cross bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. You can strengthen it only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to carry out all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That’s the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, a metal profile for creating various types of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. Therefore, I don’t really want to repeat myself.

Lining made from tree species or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards need to be prepared and cut to the same size as the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lamella of the lining to a specific location.

Important! If you plan to install the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, you must use a hammer so as not to damage the lock with a hammer and front part boards.

When your clapboard ceiling is in the process of being installed, you must mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. Once the ceiling is ready, cutting holes will be more difficult, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly tamping, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along its entire length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, there is no need to install the lining with glue, since you will already have a durable and strong structure.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The only difference will be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now they often make ceiling skirting boards, which already initially have this groove. There are also collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before covering the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finishing. As a result, the overall ceiling level will be pre-determined assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more tightly to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the joints.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to secure a corner or corner around the perimeter of your new ceiling. decorative plinth. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The baseboard is usually installed liquid nails. There are also special clips.

If there is a desire, the lining can be varnished in several layers, and also with the help of stain it can be given required ceiling shade. And only after that you can enjoy the view of your ceiling, the work on which can be considered completely finished. A lining ceiling is not only decorative decoration rooms, but also a lighter finishing option.

Lining is high-quality, aesthetic, and most importantly, environmentally friendly pure material, which is often used to decorate the walls of residential buildings. IN modern conditions, when there are so many synthetic materials on the market, it is the lining that makes it possible to create a very pleasant, warm atmosphere, good microclimate. In this article we will look in detail at how the interior decoration of a house with clapboard is carried out in accordance with all the rules, reliably and competently.

Basics of installation technology

Install the lining in wooden, timber, frame house not difficult at all with my own hands, you can perform such finishing in a cottage built of brick, in frame buildings and other residential structures. In order for surface cladding made of wood to be of high quality, it is important to follow the installation technology and carefully select the material. You also need to decide in advance how exactly the lining will be installed: horizontally or vertically.

Typically for interior wall cladding wooden building or in other types of residential buildings, material made from the following types wood:

birch;
larch;
Linden;
aspen;
pine.

There is also a modern synthetic material – plastic lining. It is easy to install, weighs little, is quite cheap, but creates the same favorable atmosphere as natural wood she certainly won't. The only condition under which the plastic analogue will be preferred material, This high level humidity in rooms. For example, in the kitchen, toilet or bathroom, it is plastic that imitates natural wood that will become the best option. And in living areas and the hallway of your home, you should use exclusively natural wood. The undoubted advantages of wooden lining are excellent sound insulation, long-term operation, heat retention and, of course, a beneficial effect on human health.

Lining made of wood is divided into several types:

variety "Extra"– the most expensive and high quality;
variety "A";
variety "B";
variety "WITH".

If you want the decoration in your home to be durable, beautiful and of high quality, give preference to more expensive material.

Interior decoration of a residential building

Step 1. Preparing material for interior wall cladding. Before proceeding with installation in a wooden or any other structure, you should prepare not only the walls, but also, first of all, the lining itself. It definitely needs to be covered by special means for bioprotection, which will prevent rotting, mold and other factors unfavorable for wood.

Step 2. If you want to get a lining unusual shade, ideally suited to your interiors, treat the material with stain or special compounds that will give the desired tone.

Step 3. Dry the lining well and keep it in the room where the repairs will be done for 24 hours. This is necessary so that the panels “get used” to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room and do not shrink after installation. In addition, such “adaptation” also protects the material from drying out in the future.

Step 4. We are preparing the sheathing for installing the boards. The panels will be installed on a wooden sheathing. In order to do this load-bearing structure, you can purchase ready-made slats for the frame, but to save money you can make them yourself. This is not difficult to do: using an electric saw, slats are cut from boards with a small cross-section. Next, using self-tapping screws, the sheathing is attached to the wall in increments of 50-70 cm.

In order for the frame to be strong and its service life to be as long as possible, a slight gap should be left between the cladding and the surface of the walls: this is necessary for good ventilation. If necessary, insulation material and a vapor barrier are installed in the frame. It is also important to treat the sheathing with a primer to protect it from mold or mildew, which could damage appearance lining, and most importantly, reduce the service life of the material.

Step 5. Fastening the lining. Before you start covering, you should choose the best way fastening the material. Can be secured with nails, clamps or staples. You can make the fasteners hidden or external, use ordinary nails or special decorative screws, staplers, etc. for fastening. The main thing is to try not to cause any damage to the material during the installation process (if handled carelessly, the wooden surface may well crack).

In case you prefer in a hidden way fastenings, the lining is fixed to the frame from the side of the groove, where it meets the tenon. The method most often used is the most accurate, but also the most complex: nails are carefully nailed into the grooves of the lining. At the same time, the fixation points become almost invisible.

They will also help you to install the lining with high quality special devices for such material - metal clamps. The clamper cuts into the groove of the lining with its teeth; on the other hand, it is nailed or screwed to the sheathing. It is very convenient to install wooden finishing material using clamps.

Important rules for covering the surfaces of house walls with clapboard

You need to decide in advance on the direction in which the trim will be installed: this primarily determines how the frame will be arranged - horizontally or vertically. The material is attached perpendicular to the sheathing. Horizontal clapboard cladding will help you significantly expand the room visually, while vertical cladding will help make the ceilings appear visually higher.
For horizontal cladding, start fastening the material from the ceilings to the floor; it is advisable to direct the grooves of the boards downwards. In this case, debris, bullets and dirt cannot get into the grooves, and the absence of such negative factors will significantly extend the service life of the casing.
For vertical cladding interior walls start installation from the corner. Clamps are installed in the grooves on the back walls of the boards, which must be nailed to the frame rail. The first board is fixed in the corner with nails, and the fastening points will subsequently be covered with decorative slats. Further, all work is carried out in the same way as with horizontal mounting: the boards are fixed on top of each other, lining up into a single, even canvas.
The installation is completed in the same way as it began: the last board must be nailed down, and the fastening points must be covered with decorative strips. With the help of such strips, as well as decorative corners and baseboards, be sure to cover all joints and corners - internal and external. This will make the wall paneling complete.

The video clearly shows the entire installation technology:

Decorating a wooden or any other house with clapboard is a wonderful way to make interiors spectacular and fill them with an extraordinary feeling of natural warmth and comfort. A house built of stone or brick has a “cold” beauty - and such decoration can completely change the atmosphere. Give preference to quality natural materials to decorate the walls inside the house - and enjoy the comfort and beauty of your country home!