Budgetary site drainage and storm sewer systems from portal users. Drainage systems How to drain water from the gate of a house

Rainwater drainage system melt water from buildings (drainage) is one of the most important for maintaining buildings of any purpose in good condition, extending their service life. The accumulation of water in an unintended place can easily lead to the destruction of the foundation and local area, contamination of the facade coating, death of plants, waterlogging of the area.

One of the options for protecting a building is its waterproofing, but this alone is not enough for complete protection. A joint barrier to moisture from waterproofing and a drainage system will be effective.

In some cases, a system that will drain water away from the house is mandatory. For example, in houses that are located in lowlands or on clayey and dry soils clay soils. The risk of destruction of building foundations is also high in areas with high precipitation levels and high groundwater levels. In addition to natural causes, there are also man-made threats - buildings with a buried foundation are susceptible to water accumulation near it, and concrete or asphalt paths prevent water from seeping into the soil.

A system that includes roofing, surface and drainage precipitation collection is considered to be complete.

The roof water collection system consists of gutters along the edge of the roof, vertical pipes usually located at the corners of buildings and outlet funnels. Drainage systems with round installed on multi-storey buildings residential buildings or industrial buildings, since they have greater throughput.

Pipes with rectangular cross-section installed on small buildings. The material for the production of pipes is usually plastic or galvanized metal - durable, practical and lightweight. When installing roofing system It is important to firmly strengthen all elements to avoid noise during the passage of water.

The type of roof also matters – pitched or flat. If pitched roof does not require additional devices, then for flat roof, as well as open balconies and terraces, it may be necessary to install internal drainage.

The surface system does not require a large amount of excavation work: rain trays are laid in shallow trenches, which are covered with protective gratings. Experts calculate the location of the water collection point, the size of the trays and the number of trenches, taking into account the terrain and the average amount of precipitation in the area.

Deep drainage is the most common option for arranging a stormwater management system. Requires a large amount of excavation work - trenches should be about 80 cm deep. Perforated pipes are laid in trenches on a layer of crushed stone and durable geosynthetic fabric. Please note that the use of geosynthetic fabric is recommended when installing in clayey or loamy soil. Laying in sandy soil does not need such a canvas.

This drainage system is especially important for buildings that have a basement, ground floor at high level groundwater. Although rainwater will only be collected by this drainage system during the rainy season (spring and fall), its absence can cause serious damage to the foundation and surrounding area.

In addition to the above-mentioned drainage systems, there are several less common ones, for example, backfill drainage or reservoir drainage.

Formative drainage is used for apartment buildings, underground passages and industrial complexes. The backfill drainage system is used in small areas, where it is difficult or impossible to install open drainage. Before arranging it, you should know that subsequent inspection of earthen trenches and their maintenance will be impossible, since after laying the geotextile, crushed stone and pipes in the trench, everything is covered with a layer of turf for a more attractive appearance.

Options for taming rainwater

Some types of drainage have options that can be selected depending on the amount of rainfall and installation methods.

The surface drainage system has linear and point types. Linear view involves collecting rainwater from the entire local area. The system is formed by lines of trenches through which water flows into the storage tank.

A point system is engaged in collecting water at certain points on the site, most often these are the outlet funnels of drains or watering taps. Collection points are covered with grates to prevent branches, leaves and other debris from entering the drainage system. The drainage pipes of the point system are connected to the main pipe, which leads to the well.

There is also a combination of point and linear views, which is considered the most profitable in terms of costs and operation.

Based on the installation method, drainage systems are divided into open and closed.

Open systems are a combination of shallow inclined trenches united by a common drainage ditch. Plastic or concrete trays covered with gratings are placed in the trenches. This type of drainage is preferred due to its low cost and speed of installation.

It is best to carry out the arrangement of drainage during the construction of the building, installation after completion construction work is associated with certain difficulties. In the period between the installation of a full-fledged system, temporary drainage can be organized - water can be collected manually, using barrels: a container of a suitable volume is installed under the drainpipe.

A closed system has a narrower and shallower trench, which means less throughput. The “advantages” are considered to be a more aesthetic appearance and safety of operation.

Vertical drainage can be called a variant of a deep drainage system. Installed near buildings required quantity wells with submersible pumps. This drainage option is the most effective, but also the most expensive, since it requires a large amount of excavation work and special knowledge.

Also closed installation Drainage systems can be divided into continuous and wall. As the name implies, a continuous one is installed throughout the entire site, while protecting the base and surrounding area.

The wall system is located exclusively near the foundation of the building, protecting only the structure from rainwater.


Preparing for installation of a system for draining excess water from the house

Before starting work on arranging a drainage system, it is necessary to prepare information on the topography of the given territory, soil composition, and average precipitation. This data can be obtained from specialized services. Vibration loads in the area where pipes will be laid must be known to the customer himself; a specialist from a specialized construction company.

Rainwater discharge location

No less important element system is a rainwater collection point. They can serve as a natural reservoir, a specially prepared drainage field consisting of a number of depressions through which water seeps into the soil, or sewer collectors. The main condition for arranging a discharge site is its location at the lowest point of the site. In areas with flat terrain, a drainage well with a pump is installed.

A well can also be accumulative: the water is then used for irrigation, and absorbent: in the absence of a bottom, water slowly seeps into the ground.

Under no circumstances should you install a water collection point near the foundation of the house, and you should also not use underground drainage with surface drainage. This may result in flooding of the building.

It is possible to choose the optimal type of drainage system only after a detailed study of the characteristics of the territory, weather reports for the area, the method of using the local area, and the purpose of the building itself. An experienced specialist will be able to take into account and correctly use all the information, so this complex and responsible work should be entrusted to a construction company with extensive experience in installing drainage of various kinds.

Errors or even inaccuracies in the work carried out to drain rainwater can lead to irreparable consequences. On the contrary, compliance with the requirements and rules will extend the life of the building by more than half a century, eliminating unnecessary expenses and hassle.

Owners land plots often face the problem of excess water after melting snow, rain or due to high groundwater. Excess moisture is harmful not only to plant roots, but also leads to flooding of basements and even premature destruction of building foundations. Installing a drainage system will help cope with this problem. This is an engineering structure, thanks to which storm and groundwater are discharged outside the site.

The system includes point drainage systems and linear channels. The drainage system is a gravity flow system. Pipes (drains) are laid with a uniform slope (1–3 cm per meter of length). This is especially important for silty soils. The decline should go away from the house. Inspection wells are installed at pipe bends. They make the system easier to maintain. Straight sections are equipped with wells every 30–50 meters.

Layout of drains on the site according to the herringbone pattern

The drains on the site are laid out in a herringbone pattern. The diameter of the auxiliary pipes is 75 millimeters, the main pipe is 100 millimeters. The central pipe carries water outside the site.

Pipes should not be laid close to the house or fence. The distance from the foundation to the pipe is at least 1 meter.

Types of drainage

Drainage can be performed open or closed. The choice of drainage system depends on the climate and type of soil. The groundwater level is also important.

  1. Open drainage is the simplest method of drainage. Water flows through ditches to a given place. Drainage trays with decorative grilles are also used. The most important thing here is the slope. It should be 2-3 centimeters per meter of length.
  2. The closed version is more common. These are branched drainage systems located in the ground. Pipes or crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the trench. Brushwood or large stones are also suitable for this. The main thing is that the material conducts water. To make the water decrease faster, the slope is 2–5 centimeters per meter of length.

Open system

A ditch is dug along the perimeter of the site and the house. The width should be 40–50 centimeters, the depth 50–60 centimeters. The slope is made towards the common water intake trench. For better water drainage, the walls of the ditch are beveled at an angle of 30 degrees.

This system has its own characteristics:

  • low cost;
  • completing the work does not take much time;
  • has an unaesthetic appearance;
  • with a large amount of water, it is necessary to increase the depth of the ditch, which increases the likelihood of falls and injuries;
  • Over time, the wall of such a ditch collapses.

Decorative trays extend the life of the drainage system and give a more aesthetic appearance

To increase service life, trays are used. They can be plastic or concrete. Decorative grilles increase safety. Improves and appearance plot.

Modern drainage according to a linear scheme involves the use of special parts: channels, gutters and trays, which are installed in pre-prepared ditches dug to the water collection site with a slope. Grates are laid on top of such ditches.

Closed system

Pipe drainage carries water to the catchment well. Drainage drains are laid in trenches. Perforated pipes are filled with crushed stone and covered with geotextiles. Connecting to the collector, the water is discharged to the collection well.

Using a network of drainage pipes, excess soil moisture is drained into separately located drainage wells

TO closed type include a drainage hole. A hole dug to a depth of 2 meters is filled with gravel. Excess moisture collects in it. Subsequently, the water gradually disappears into the soil.

Backfill drainage is similar to closed drainage, but the difference between them is that instead of pipes in this case, the trench is half filled with large crushed stone or broken brick. The upper part of the trench is covered with a smaller fraction - small stone or gravel. The top layer is made of soil. Backfill drainage is now rarely used. On clay soils the system quickly fails. The filter media becomes silted and does not allow water to pass through.

Modern drainage systems

Modern industry offers new types of drainage systems. Synthetic materials durable and lightweight. The versatility of the parts ensures ease of assembly.

Pipe and pipeless structures have been developed. Plastic devices are environmentally friendly. Pipes are sold with or without geotextile wrapping. The drainage kit includes two-layer drains and synthetic filters.

Systems without crushed stone

Instead of crushed stone they are used synthetic aggregates. The bottom of the trench is compacted and covered with sand. Pipes are laid taking into account the slope. The tecton is covered with layer-by-layer water-permeable material.

The thickness of the coating depends on the water permeability of the soil. Usually it is 100–300 millimeters. Geotextiles are laid on top and soil is filled. Soft drainage is more expensive, but more effective than crushed stone.

Geotextiles are used in drainage systems as a separating layer

Systems without pipes

Using new technologies, pipes can be replaced with a different design. Synthetic drainage mats are now being produced. This is a three-dimensional plastic mesh wrapped in geotextile. Lightweight products from composite material easy to install. Their advantage is protection against silting.

Even if the upper or lower layers of geotextile silt, the drainage grid itself will continue to work perfectly and drain groundwater

When the soil is highly moistened, there are enlarged systems. These are drainage tunnels and fields. Plastic elements are assembled into monumental structures. They can be used on large areas.

Softrock systems

The cassette consists of a perforated pipe and polystyrene foam filler. The structure is covered with durable woven mesh. The top layer is made of double geotextile. Special channels improve water flow. Drainage cassette more efficient than the system with crushed stone by 35–60%.

The flexible pipe in the case is 3 meters long. It is completely ready for installation. The softrock drainage system is located at a depth of 45 centimeters. After installation, they are covered with soil.

The softrock system uses expanded polystyrene instead of crushed stone

According to consumer reviews, the system is reliable and durable. Many have mounted it on our own. The time of year does not affect the production of work. The flexibility of the sections is especially noted, which makes it possible to bend around trees and buildings.

After the autumn rains, water stood in the basement; it was necessary to provide high-quality drainage. I remembered the crushed stone and figured out in my mind how many resources needed to be poured into this project: time, work force, transport to transport this crushed stone, and then spread it further... I was looking for instructions on the Internet, came across Softrock, decided to take a risk and did not regret it. Easy, inexpensive, modern and wise: foam balls rubble tucked into his belt. Indeed, everything is ingenious - simple

Valentinehttp://softrock.ru/o-nas/otzyvy/

The pipe there is the same as the 110 or 160 pipe, it is the same, the filtration element is only polystyrene foam, in bad soils sand and crushed stone can kill a lot and the area will turn into a swamp, but this pipe can be laid in a landscaped area, it will work out neatly. The main thing that year was to make 2 sections from the standard system: geotextiles, sand, crushed stone + pipe + crushed stone, geotextile soil, the second only softrock - in the first section the soil has not yet receded and the water is standing, but the softrock works faster. It has a surrounding layer of polystyrene foam, it is like insulation for drainage, and the diameter is stable 27 cm. Of course, everything depends on its purpose, the soft rock will simply go along the site, and if it does not carry the load on the road.

Drenazh2013https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/195034/page-3

Modern and high-quality drainage, if you, like me, did not know how technology has advanced in this area, then look at soft rock, there is something to be surprised at. Very easy to install and requires no maintenance. No rubble or problems. External material It only lets water through, no need to clean it. No, it's really very convenient.

Cinderellahttps://www.otovarah.ru/forum/topic/4373-drenazh-softrok-softrock/

Drainage for storm water drainage

The façade, foundations, and area around the house suffer from precipitation. The drainage system for drainage of storm water includes:

  • roof gutters;
  • point storm water inlets;
  • storm drainage;
  • drainage system.

Gutters and pipes remove water from the roof. Stormwater inlets are installed under the drainpipe. They direct water through pipes into storm drains. Typically, two-layer polymer drains are used. They are laid in trenches at a slope of 2 centimeters by 1 meter.

Drainage system and storm sewerage

Rainwater must be removed from the building. To do this, drainage wells or storage tanks are installed in the drainage system. Collected in a sealed container rainwater. It can be used for irrigation or technical purposes.

The walls of the well are strengthened concrete rings. The depth should be at the level of the filter layer of soil. Then the water will gradually go into the soil. If such layers lie deep, wells are drilled. It is necessary to take into account the groundwater level. At high levels, wells are ineffective.

Storm drainage for country house should be installed simultaneously with the drainage system for a more correct calculation of water drainage

Installation of a drainage system: step-by-step technology

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the site, note natural slopes, and determine the groundwater level. Mark the trenches on the ground according to the diagram. To do this, use pegs and cord.

Calculation and drainage diagram

The calculation consists of determining the upper and lower points of the system. The lowest point corresponds to the place of water discharge. The top one is selected 30 centimeters below the foundation. The slope angle is taken to be at least 1%.

You need to calculate the length of the entire trench. To do this, add up the distance from the well and the length of the trench around the house. One percent of this amount is equal to the difference between the top and bottom points. If the water intake point is higher, a drainage pump is needed.

The correct diagram of the drainage system will help you make it yourself

The drainage system diagram indicates:

  • location of buildings on the site;
  • water storage area;
  • main conductor;
  • drainage drains.

SNiP drainage system

When designing drainage systems to prevent or eliminate flooding of territories, the requirements of SNiP drainage 2.06.15–85, as well as SNiP 2.06.14–85 and SNiP II-52–74 must be met.

  1. When designing, preference should be given to systems with gravity drainage. Drainage systems with forced pumping of water require additional justification.
  2. Depending on the hydrogeological conditions, horizontal, vertical and combined drainages should be used.
  3. The use of a drainage system should be justified by studying the water, and for the arid zone, the salt balance of groundwater.
  4. The implementation of horizontal drainage using open trench and trenchless methods is determined economic feasibility. In the case of installing open horizontal drainages at a depth of up to 4 m from the ground surface, the depth of soil freezing, as well as the possibility of their overgrowing, should be taken into account.
  5. Open channels and trenches should be constructed in cases where drainage of large areas with one- and two-story low-density buildings is required. Their use is also possible to protect ground transport communications from flooding.
  6. To secure the slopes of open drainage ditches and trenches, it is necessary to use concrete or reinforced concrete slabs or riprap. Drainage holes must be provided in reinforced slopes.
  7. In closed drainages, sand and gravel mixture, expanded clay, slag, polymer and other materials should be used as a filter and filter bedding.
  8. Water should be drained through trenches or channels by gravity. Installation of water collection tanks with pumping stations pumping is advisable in cases where the topography of the protected area has lower elevations than the water level in the nearest water body, where surface runoff from the protected area should be diverted.
  9. Discharge of water into storm sewers is permitted if the capacity is storm sewer determined taking into account additional expenses water coming from the drainage system. In this case, back-up of the drainage system is not allowed.
  10. Inspection wells should be installed at least every 50 m in straight sections of drainage, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in slope of drainage pipes. Inspection wells may be used in prefabricated reinforced concrete rings with a settling tank (at least 0.5 m deep) and concrete bottoms in accordance with GOST 8020–80. Inspection wells on reclamation drainages should be adopted in accordance with SNiP II-52–74.
  11. The following pipes should be used: ceramic, asbestos-cement, concrete, reinforced concrete or polyvinyl chloride pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete or porous polymer concrete.
  12. Concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete should be used only in soils and water that are non-aggressive towards concrete.

Pipes for drainage system

Modern industry produces three types of pipes:

  • asbestos-cement;
  • ceramic;
  • polymer.

The first two types are now rarely used. They are expensive, heavy and short-lived. A variety of plastic pipes fills the market. Single and double-layer, flexible and rigid polymer pipes have many advantages.

Polymer pipes are most often used for drainage

Do-it-yourself drainage installation

You can install drainage on the site yourself. Any company can help you select pipes and fittings for them. To make a drainage system you will need the following tools and materials:

  • pipes made of asbestos cement or plastic, fittings;
  • wrenches, pipe cutting scissors;
  • filter non-woven material;
  • ready-made or manufactured manholes;
  • storm water inlets (catchment inlet), trays, gutters, gratings, sand traps;
  • gravel, sand;
  • level;
  • bayonet and shovel;
  • electric or pneumatic hammer drill;
  • wheelbarrow, buckets;
  • iron or wooden rammer;
  • individual protection means.

The construction of a deep drainage system occurs as follows:

  1. Construction begins with the installation of a collector well, that is, a place where water will be collected from the entire system. It would be simple and rational to use a ready-made container made of durable polymer, although it is also possible self-production well made of reinforced concrete rings.

    A prefabricated drainage well is needed so that excess water accumulates in it, which fills the drainage system to capacity

  2. Next, trenches are prepared for laying drainage pipes. The trench is dug 20–30 cm deeper than the expected depth of the pipes to be laid, and it is necessary to maintain a slope of 0.5–0.7%.

    The depth of the trench depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the drainage system is installed

  3. If it is impossible to maintain a given slope, then this diagram you will have to turn on an additional pump for the drainage structure of the site.
  4. Sand cushions 10 cm thick are placed in the dug trenches, which are compacted very carefully.
  5. Then the trench is lined with geotextile fabric so that its edges extend beyond the trench.
  6. Gravel 10–20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric, on which the pipes will be laid.

    We lay out the geotextile fabric so that it completely covers the entire area of ​​the trench and continues to spread along the surface of the earth for another 20–30 centimeters

  7. Inspection wells are installed at the turning points of the drainage structure pipeline. Wells are also installed on straight sections every 50 meters.

    Inspection drainage plastic well needed in order to easily check the drainage system, and, if necessary, repair or clean it

  8. After the pipes are laid, washed gravel is poured on top of them in a layer of 10 to 20 cm and all this is wrapped in excess geotextile overlapping. You can secure the fabric with polyethylene twine.

    A layer of washed gravel is poured onto the pipes and wrapped in excess geotextile

  9. Geotextiles will act as a filter that does not allow soil particles to pass through and will prevent the gravel layer from silting.
  10. Filling the trench: sand, then soil or crushed stone, and turf is laid on top. A sand cushion is needed to prevent pipe deformation during the off-season.

    You can lay grass turf on top of the drainage trench or decorate it with stones

Video: laying drainage using perforated pipeline

Drainage system maintenance, cleaning

Maintenance consists of inspecting and cleaning the system. Regular inspection will help identify minor problems.

Basic methods of servicing drying and drainage systems:

  1. Cleaning the drain ( mechanical method). It can be carried out different methods. The choice of any of them depends on where exactly the pipes are located and design features. If the drain is on the surface, it is best to choose a manual cleaning method. It can be done independently, without involving qualified specialists. If we are talking about deep drainage, more effective methods, which may be associated with excavation work. In this case, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning tool and a shaft. The second option involves the use of a special nozzle, which will remove deposits on the pipe walls and crush large inclusions. The system should be cleaned at least once every 3–4 years.
  2. Flushing drainage (hydrodynamic method). Typically, the system is cleaned in sections using a hose and pump. Global cleaning of the system should be done once every 10–15 years. To do this, you need to provide access to each drain from both ends. On one side the pipe goes into a drainage well, and the other end is brought to the surface. To do this, even at the stage of laying the system, outlets are made and with the help of fittings the pipe is extended and taken to a certain place. During the washing process pump equipment They connect it to one or the other end of the pipe, and a stream of water is passed under pressure. This uses a compressor that will supply compressed air into the pipe. The system is cleaned by a flow of a mixture of air and water. The hydrodynamic method is different high efficiency - under this influence, sediments and debris are crushed, after which they are washed out of the drains with clean water.

Video: cleaning a drainage well with a drainage pump

Manholes require regular cleaning. They must always be closed. Pipes are cleaned of debris using a hydraulic method using high pressure. Mechanical cleaning with scrapers or brushes is unacceptable.

In order for the water drainage system from the site to work as efficiently and as long as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to its maintenance and repair.

The type of drainage system is determined by the characteristics of a particular site. Each owner chooses the most suitable option for him. Drainage installation can be done independently, with the necessary calculations, compliance sanitary standards and rules and recommendations of specialists. At correct operation the system can operate for more than 50 years.


Draining water from the house is a problem for almost every owner of a country house, which must be solved immediately, without debugging “for later.” During rains and heavy rains, water can destroy the stability of the house, destroying the foundation. Of course, this will not happen from one rainstorm, but if such incidents occur constantly, then the house may simply go underground, that is, “grow” into it. The foundation of the building will be washed away by sewage, the ground under the foundation will be soft and the foundation will sink down under the weight of the house.

And, for example, if the house has a basement? This problem in this case must be solved immediately, it cannot be postponed even for short term. After all, if the basement is constantly flooded, then within a few years it will fall into an unsatisfactory condition and it will no longer be possible to use it for its intended purpose. Why? Because due to constant dampness in the basement, mold fungi may soon appear, which in turn are extremely harmful to the health of people and animals.


Groundwater can also pose a danger to the site. If your house is located near a river, lake or even a swamp, then you can be sure that there are some on the site. The danger of groundwater lies in the fact that it lies in the depths of the earth. If water from the house flows there during heavy rains, then there is a high probability of disturbing the balance and stability of the house, which may subsequently lead to its collapse. It is for this reason that it is so important to properly drain rainwater from a residential building.

Drainage of water from the roof: features

Water drainage from the roof must be mandatory. For example, in winter it gets on the roof great amount snow that accumulates on it and can simply break it. There is also another significant danger: during daytime snow melting, icicles may form in the evening. They, in turn, can fall on someone’s head. If you drain thawed snow and rainwater from your home, you can forget about the formation of icicles and the danger of them falling on someone’s head forever.


How to make a drainage system yourself, that is the question. You can immediately answer that this is not complex process, you can handle it yourself. To do this, you need to buy gutters and drainpipes at a construction hypermarket or market that will drain water from the roof. Gutters for draining water from the roof are the least expensive and simplest option. It is also the most popular. Installing gutters to drain water from your home is quite simple and can be done with your own hands.

There are three types of gutters:

  • semicircular,
  • rectangular or square
  • trapezoidal.

How to decide which would be better suited for your building? You can only rely on your taste, and you should also take into account the design of the building. In terms of functionality, these gutters are practically no different; we can say that they are the same in their properties and characteristics. Therefore, the choice falls entirely on your shoulders.

You can only help with the choice of color: you should not buy light-colored gutters, since in winter the snow on them will melt more slowly than if they were darker. This happens because dark colors"attract" more solar energy. Light colors on the contrary, they reflect the energy of the sun, so the snow on them will melt more slowly. Also, many experts recommend installing storm gutters that have larger size, therefore they can withstand loads during heavy rainfall.


There is nothing complicated in installing gutters, you just need to follow the instructions from the attached instructions.

The system for draining rain and melt water using gutters is as follows:

Water flows from the roof into an attached gutter; it travels along the gutter to a downspout, through which it flows down to the ground. But the problem remains unresolved; water continues to flow directly under the foundation of the house. To bring the water drainage system from the house to perfection, it is necessary to make an additional drainage system.

Drainage systems

What is a drainage system? What is it used for? What types does it come in? In what cases should it be used?

In fact, the drainage system is a system for draining water from the house, only it removes water almost completely, which will have a good effect on the building and extend its service life.

Types of drainage systems:

  • Ground drainage (surface)
  • Drainage lines
  • Drainage in certain places (spot)
  • Open drainage system
  • Closed drainage system
  • The trenches are filled
  • Deep drainage


When there is an urgent need to install a complex drainage system:

  • If there are natural water bodies near the house.
  • The house is on a low ground.
  • On clay soils, since water drains out quite slowly on such soils, especially after rainstorms.
  • Occurs in your area a large number of precipitation throughout the calendar year.
  • Groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth's crust.
  • The presence of concrete or tiled paths on the site, as they do not allow water to pass through.
  • Low foundation of the house, because the possibility of flooding increases significantly.

Installing a system that will drain rainwater yourself will help save money on further repairs of the building due to possible flooding.

Types of water drainage systems

Surface drainage

Surface drainage will allow for the removal of storm water; it is also called a storm drain. It is very simple to install this type of drainage system that drains storm water. Such a system will help to cope exclusively with the drainage of rain and melt water, but such a system will not be able to cope with groundwater. Surface drainage itself is divided into two more types: linear and point.


Linear water drainage works as follows: special trenches are dug throughout the entire area, which merge into one common drainage well. Usually the trenches are covered with gratings.

Point drainage of water allows water from different places on the site to be drained into a common well, and such a system is usually used simultaneously with a linear one. Point drainage is usually installed in places where there is no need for constant mandatory drainage of water. For example, in outbuildings or bathhouses.

There is also combined drainage, that is, both linear and point drainage. Most often used in country houses and in country houses exactly this type of drainage systems.

Drainage systems on private properties will not affect the water supply, as they usually draw water from deeper wells or boreholes.

Drainage systems: open and closed type

Open systems are a set of trenches, channels and gutters that allow water to be drained from the house to a specially designated place, usually a well.


Closed drainage systems also represent a combination of various drains and channels, but they have a more aesthetic appearance, since they are covered with decorative gratings. The outlet channel in the form of a pipe is often buried underground and is in no way visible from above.

All construction experts agree on one general plan when organizing drainage systems on a private site: “It is not so difficult to install a drainage system on your site in modern conditions. Before construction, it is advisable to take a site plan and mark all channels and trenches on it, as well as determine the best place for a well into which the water will be drained. The next important step is to count necessary materials. You need to do this so that you don’t waste your time on unnecessary shopping trips. Work must begin from the roof, and only then construct surface drainage channels on the ground.”

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High-quality removal (drainage) of rain and groundwater from the house - required condition long and reliable operation of sidewalks and areas that are covered with any type of paving slabs.

From the article you will learn why water drainage is so important, what happens when water is not completely removed, and what schemes are used for this.

To understand why water drainage is so important, you need to know how pavements with any type of tile work. Before laying the underlying layers, part of the soil is removed and the surface of the ditch is compacted.

In most regions of Russia, clayey and sandy soils tens of meters deep, the top (soft) layer of which consists of a mixture of clay, sand and humus. In mountainous regions (foothills of the Urals, North Caucasus and others) often the depth of soft soil does not exceed 30 centimeters, after which rocky soil (stone, rock) begins. The blind area laid in these places is less sensitive to water.

When water penetrates the underlying layers and reaches the soil, the clay and black soil soften. If the amount of water is large and given enough time, the clay turns into liquid mud into which the base of the paving sinks. As a result, in a separate area, first a layer of crushed stone subsides, then a layer of sand and, finally, paving slabs or paving stones.

In Russia, washed sand and crushed stone are rarely used for the construction of foundations (underlying layers). Especially if they are not doing it for themselves.

If you hired a team of coven workers, at the same time entrusted them with the purchase of everything you need and want to save money, with a 95 percent chance they will save on the quality of materials. For the underlying layers, such workers use material that is not only not washed, but not even cleaned using a screen.

When water passes through unwashed and uncleaned sand and gravel, it washes away small particles. As a result, voids are formed that subside over time. This is especially evident when the soil is heaving (freezing of the water with which it is filled, as a result of which the ground level rises).

Poor drainage of water from areas leads to the destruction of paving elements. Water that has penetrated (absorbed) inside the tile freezes at temperatures below zero degrees, expands and destroys its structure.

It is cheaper to build normal drainage of storm and melt water once than to carry out it every 3-5 years major renovation blind areas.

Groundwater and meltwater drainage schemes

The following schemes are used for water drainage:

  • surface using sidewalk gutters;
  • surface using drainage ditches;
  • underground with connection to the city storm sewer;
  • underground with connection to a septic tank or water purification devices and subsequent discharge into a reservoir.

The water drainage scheme using sidewalk gutters is described in the article Elements of drainage.

A surface drainage scheme using drainage ditches is used if the terrain and structure of the area allows. A slope of at least 1 cm per 1 meter, the ability to discharge water into a river or lake, the ability to dig ditches or raise the road (sidewalk) and the opposite wall of the ditch are required.

The base is prepared in such a way that the slope of the paved area towards the ditch is at least 1 cm per 10 meters. The border is installed at the level of the paving elements, not allowing it to be exceeded even by one millimeter. This arrangement is rarely used for paved areas because it is necessary to reinforce the near side of the ditch with concrete, asphalt or other materials to protect the base.

The general structure of underground drainage schemes is the same. Water is drained through a closed concrete (socket pipes or trays with a lid) or plastic (PVC or polyethylene) pipe. The central pipe (collector) is laid either 0.1-0.5 meters deeper than the lower underlying layer, or on the side at a depth of 0.3-0.7 meters below the surface.

The location of the collector on the side is preferable, because in the event of a serious blockage, it is necessary to dig up the pipe, remove the blockage (often with the destruction of a section of the pipe and subsequent replacement) and cover it again with soil. Therefore, the use of concrete trays and covers to drain rainwater avoids the destruction of pipes. It is enough to remove the cover, clear the blockage, put the cover back in place, fill it with soil and restore the coating.

To decide which underground drainage scheme is preferable, contact the architecture department and find out where the nearest storm sewer is and who owns it. After this, contact the owner to find out the connection conditions.

Consult the city/village administration about the possibility of discharging storm and melt water “on topography,” that is, into “natural ditches” - ravines, hollows and depressions that lead to a reservoir or river.

Most likely, you will be assigned several expensive examinations and will be required to purchase treatment facilities. Although there are cases where it was possible to save money on examinations without any bribes, this depends on the ecologist who makes the decision.

Organized discharge of storm and melt water without obtaining permission is illegal. If you are caught doing this, you will be forced to pay a large fine and be forced to dismantle the entire rainwater drainage system. Or they will be required to obtain permission from maximum number examinations, installation treatment facilities from “their” companies and at the maximum price.

Why you can’t discharge water into a domestic sewer or septic tank

Domestic (fecal sewer) is designed for a small amount of domestic waste, so the diameter of the pipes is smaller than for storm sewer. The amount of water during a rainstorm or melting snow is tens or hundreds of times greater than the capacity of a sewer or septic tank. As a result, their contents are washed to the surface.

Storm and melt water contains a large amount of sand, small and large debris, so supplying such water will lead to the formation of blockages in the collector. According to Russian legislation, the discharge of storm and waste water into domestic sewerage illegal and punishable by a large fine.

How to organize a drain in the yard with your own hands

If you paved your yard, use the old drainage system. If water flowed through holes in the fence foundation and went through the gutter, create a foundation for the blind area so that the slope was directed in a straight line from the fence foundation to the house, as well as towards the gutter. The slope is 1-1.5 cm per 10 meters.

Mark a line perpendicular to the foundation of the fence. If the diameter of the hole in the fence foundation is less than 20 cm, drill or punch several additional holes with a diameter of 6-15 cm.

If a storm sewer was connected to the yard, then no additional approvals are required. But just in case, consult the city/rural department of architecture or the water utility. Perhaps they will require a project for the reconstruction of storm drainage in your yard. But in 9 out of 10 cases no additional approvals are needed.

If you haven't had any storm water drainage, visit your neighbors and see how they do it. If most neighbors storm water dumped into a sewer, feel free to dump water into it using the technology described above. If your neighbors are connected to the storm sewer, contact the sewer owner about connecting to it.

Properly organized drainage of storm and melt water affects the strength and reliability of the blind area much more than the strength and quality of the tiles. From the article you learned about the schemes used to drain these waters, in which cases permits and approvals are necessary, and when you can do without them.

Can a regular summer rain, harm such a solid structure as a modern private house?

It turns out it can.

And the durability of the structural elements of the home and the level of comfort of living in it depends on how well thought out and carefully designed the drainage system is.

What threats does undiverted water pose?

The site, and therefore the foundation of the house, can be affected by several types of water:

  • water that drains from the roof ();
  • precipitation falling directly on the site;
  • water entering the site from adjacent areas;
  • groundwater that we don’t see, but it can cause a lot of trouble.

Increased water content in top layer soil may negatively affect growth landscape shrubs and trees, and also negate all efforts to care for the garden.

Humidity from basements and the foundation will rise along the walls to the residential level, which will lead to the formation of mold and destruction of the external and internal finishing layer of the walls.

Accumulated water can cause soil movement. As a result, the so-called “stirring” of the house occurs.

This will be visible through cracks in the wall, falling plaster and poorly closing doors. In the worst case, perhaps premature destruction of the foundation, with all the ensuing consequences.

The greatest problems may arise in winter:

  • frozen water, expanding, will cause swelling of lawns and paved areas;
  • the resulting ice layer will further prevent the drainage of newly incoming water.

To prevent this from happening, all water from the house must be diverted.

Just a few decades ago, few people thought about diverting water from their homes. They tried to build on an elevated place, relative to other sites.

There were simply ditches dug around the house. Open drainage systems are still used in some cases.

But with the advent of new technologies, today a closed drainage system () is mainly used.

How the drainage system works

There are several types of drainage system:

  • Open drainage system- these are, in fact, ditches dug at the lowest and highest points of the site on a slope.
    Can be decorated with stone, wood, tile or concrete.
  • Semi-closed- the same ditches, but covered with rubble and earth.
  • Closed system– perforated plastic pipes laid at depth (how to bend them at home is written).

The system will give the best results with plastic pipes.

Their outer layer is corrugated, which allows you to give the desired bending radius when laying.

There are perforated holes along the entire length, between the corrugations, on the side and top.

Through these holes, water from the ground enters the pipe and is discharged through the lower drain to a designated place.

The design of a rainwater drainage system depends on:

  • climate features,
  • soil structure,
  • height difference on the site.

In all cases, a drainage ditch is used where drainage and stormwater pipes are laid. In another way, such ditches are still called drains.

When creating a drainage system design, the slopes of the site and the groundwater level are taken into account.

The location of future garden paths, which, due to their crushed stone cushion, will also drain water.

  • easier to install,
  • more durable,
  • cheaper.

In their design, they have 1 or 2 partitions that reduce the pressure of water flowing from one well to another. This is done to prevent water from escaping to the surface.

It is necessary to have a special basket in the design.

It will additionally prevent leaves and debris washed from the surface of the earth from entering underground pipes.

The basket must be removed and cleaned at least 2-3 times per season.

The top of the well is closed with a lattice lid. She may be:

  • cast iron,
  • made of plastic,
  • made of galvanized metal.

Cast iron- will be best in harmony with clinker or paving slabs, which will fit close to the well.

Plastic- lighter, cheaper and can be chosen in the desired color.

There may be differences between the ground levels along the walls, but it is advisable to place the wells of a separate system on the same level.

They can be located at some distance from the walls of the house.

To deliver water from the drainpipe to them, clinker gutters are used.

If desired, or if the project requires it, water intake wells can be excluded from the system.

In this case, drainpipe , coming from the roof, is brought below the ground or paving level by 30-50 cm, and there it is already connected to an underground pipe leading to the drainage system.

With this design, Special attention You need to pay attention to filters that catch debris, which are usually located on the upper tiers.

For average plot sizes, paving area(clinker, paving slabs or simply pouring concrete) can be 500 meters or more.

This water also has nowhere to go and must be diverted. To do this, the installation is carried out with a certain slope, and the flowing water is collected using the same water intake wells.

Total length of storm system pipes, with average difficulty landscape project, on average, is 200-250 meters for a plot of 6 acres.

Storm pipes are used for this purpose.. Unlike drainage pipes, storm pipes are not perforated along their length, and their purpose is to quickly deliver water without loss.

They can be made of plastic or ceramics (read the article about heating the water supply inside the pipe).

Ceramic, usually used in urban and park areas. For the construction of a private plot, plastic ones are better suited. Their installation and installation is much simpler and the price is lower.

The central catch basin can be made of concrete or plastic.

Concrete - more commonly used by utilities for urban water collection systems. In private construction, plastic ones are mainly used.

The well is a pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm and a length of 3-5 m. During the construction process, since the final level of the site is not yet known, it is better to install the well with a margin of 1 meter above the surface.

Later, when everything excavation are completed, the pipe is cut to the required height.

In modern cottage villages, initially, a central drainage system is laid, where stormwater and groundwater from all houses. It is then discharged into the city wastewater system.

Lifetime

The service life of the drainage system depends from the correctness and thoroughness of its execution. Such pipes appeared about 50 years ago.

Therefore, this is approximately the warranty period that manufacturers provide. Longer tests have simply not yet been carried out.

Even if you protect the perforated holes with layers of biological tissue, silting of the inner surface of the pipes will still occur over time.

Therefore, once every 5-10 years, it is necessary to ensure that the entire system is flushed (cleaning sewer pipes hydrodynamically described in the article). They are usually washed with water under high pressure.

In complex systems, when the pipes have a lot of branches and turns, it is necessary to provide additional inspection wells that will facilitate maintenance and cleaning.

Why you need to drain water from the foundation of a house or building, watch the video.