Preparation for installation of PVC panels. How to properly attach plastic panels to the wall: with and without lathing

This finishing material is made of polyvinyl chloride, which is why they are often called PVC panels. This material, in a semi-liquid state, is extruded through a special mold, after which various patterns are applied to the panels. Often the design is already prepared and placed on a film that is simply glued to the front side of the panels. The surface can be either smooth or textured. Patterned panels remain attractive for a long time appearance, but they are significantly more expensive compared to conventional panels.

PVC wall panels with a pattern

There is another technology when the design is applied directly to the panels and covered with two layers of varnish. This type of panel does not have a long service life, since the quality of the pattern is lower.

Ceiling and wall panels

There are panels both for finishing walls and for finishing ceilings, and they differ in the thickness of the panels themselves and the partitions in the panels. Those for ceilings are 2 times thinner. If you look at the cut of the panel, you can easily determine its purpose. In addition, the ceiling panels have a glossy surface, and the quality of the joints is such that they are practically invisible.

PVC ceiling panel

There is another type of plastic panels - this is plastic lining. The thickness of the panel is 10 mm, and its width is 10 cm, and it has shaped edges, so when upgrading the walls, you get a surface similar to that obtained when installing wooden lining, that is, relief.

Plastic lining panels

Wall panels come in different widths, but most often the manufacturer produces PVC panels with a width of 25 and 37 centimeters, with a length of 2.7 and 3 meters. As for the cost, it depends on various factors, since different manufacturers different technologies are used.

PVC panels for walls – thin

There are various PVC panels, but those that consist of two layers of plastic connected by thin bridges have a number of disadvantages. The main drawback is their poor resistance to physical stress. If you press on the panel even slightly, a dent will appear, and if you press harder, you can push it through. This drawback always becomes the stumbling block because of which people refuse to use these types of panels.

PVC panel sectional view

Recently, a completely different type of PVC panels has appeared on the market, which do not have this drawback. Their thickness is only 3 mm and they have no cells, and a pattern is printed on the front side. The panels differ in size 950x480 mm, although the dimensions may be different. These panels also differ in their installation technology, since they are glued to a flat surface. Due to their thinness, the panels are easily cut with scissors, which simplifies the processing process. This type of panels practically does not take up useful space, but they can only be glued on smooth walls.

Flexible PVC panels

Features of care

There is an opinion that plastic panels require special care. However, this has absolutely no basis - of all types of finishing materials, it is perhaps difficult to find a simpler and more “unpretentious” one. Regardless of whether they are in the hallway or on the loggia, it is enough to wash them a couple of times a year with any traditional dishwashing detergent or soap solution.

However, sometimes during service more than serious pollution on the surface there are drawings made with felt-tip pens and markers, stains of motor oils, remnants of adhesive tape and others. To clean them, abrasive cleaning wipes will help, and if the marks are significant, then liquid cleaners such as Synto-Forte, Graffiti Flussig, etc.

• chlorine;
• degreasing compounds;
• alkaline soap;
• nail polish removers;
• acetone;
• polishes of all types.

Calculation of material requirements

There is no need to make any special calculations. You can determine the required amount of finishing material in one of two ways:

• By total area walls;
• according to the size of the panels.

The first method is to determine the total area of ​​the walls. To do this, their height and width are multiplied.

Most convenient option is a calculation of needs based on the dimensions of the panels. The facing material has the following standard dimensions: length - 3 m, width - 0.25 m. For example, if the bathroom is 2 m wide, then 8 panels (2 m 0.25 m) will be needed for renovation.

When calculating the number of panels, the area of ​​the door and window openings and the space behind the bathtub installed flush against the wall are subtracted. In the process of work, the cladding can be damaged. For this reason, 3-4 more pieces need to be added to the estimated number of panels.

Plastic panels serve as a good alternative to tiles.

How to properly make sheathing for panels

Plastic wall cladding begins with the construction of a frame for the panels or wall sheathing. This will allow you to quickly replace, if necessary, plastic panels and securely fasten them.

For the sheathing the following are used:

• Wood blocks.
• Metal profile - less common.

In this case, small cells located behind the structure can be used for laying insulating materials. The sheathing is attached to the wall surface with clamps or self-tapping screws in dowels.

Lathing device for plastic panels

The fastening elements of the sheathing are installed in increments of up to 0.5 meters. The distance between the bars is chosen so that laying the insulating material is as simple as possible.

Fastening the slats

To secure plastic panels when finishing walls, you can use glue, screws or clamps. Both special PVC and liquid nails can be used as glue, but this method is only suitable for a smooth and even wall. Using glue, you can save a lot, because there is no need to attach the sheathing. The downside is that if the panel is damaged, it cannot be replaced.

A reliable and convenient method is to fasten plastic panels with self-tapping screws, especially since there is no need for the wall to be perfectly even. To reduce installation time, it is recommended to screw in the screws with a screwdriver. The disadvantage of this option is the need to install a wooden frame under self-tapping screws. You will need to set aside some time to prepare the wood base.

The easiest way is to use clamps, which are quickly and easily attached to the sheathing. They allow you to conveniently and efficiently fix the panels on the wall. The lathing can be made from a metal profile. If the lamella is damaged, it is possible to replace it with a new one at any time.

What elements are needed to install panels?

Before covering the walls plastic panels, it is necessary to purchase additional moldings - fixing and at the same time decorative elements, which give the cladding its final appearance. There are several types of profiles, shown in the photo.

• Starters.
• Finish.
• Guides: upper and lower. These are installation moldings that create a frame around the perimeter of the entire surface to be finished.
• Corner external. With its help, protruding corners of the room are formed.
• Corner internal, mounted along internal corners.
• Connecting. Designed for end connections of elements for combined finishing of panels of different colors.
• Skirting boards or fillets. Fixed with glue.
• Simple corners. Used for finishing corners, glued to the sheathing.

Installation diagram of plastic panels

The panels are fastened to the wooden frame with staples and a construction stapler, and to the metal frame with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Polyvinyl chloride has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, which means that during installation, fastening points must be made with a small gap for elastic deformation of the plastic panel. At the same time, staples allow the plastic to move, but flea screws do not. In this case, you need to use thermal washers with self-tapping screws, consisting of an O-ring, a lid and a washer with a leg. There should be a gap of at least 1.5 millimeters between the wall of the hole in the plastic and the leg of the washer.

Before covering the walls with plastic panels, the video lesson will tell you the nuances of the work.

Tools and accessories

It is necessary to prepare for working with PVC panels. As already mentioned, the use of this finishing material involves the use professional tools, namely:

• hammer drill - will be needed when forming the frame;
• screwdriver - used for fixing panels to bars or metal profiles (a hammer drill can also handle this task, but it is quite heavy, so it will not be easy for a finisher with little experience to handle it);
• a jigsaw with small teeth or a circular saw;

• cowling with an angle of 90 and 45 g;
• stapler - used when installing wood sheathing;
• rubber mallet - required for removing jammed slabs; if such a procedure is carried out manually, then there is a high probability of breakage of the sheathing and the panel itself;
• spatula - it is used to bend the profile when you need to insert the very last panel. It is optimal to use a tool with a length of 80 to 120 cm.

Auxiliary tool:

• tape measure for taking measurements;
• pencil or marker - for making notes on panels;
• level - to measure deviations from the ideal coating geometry;
• square, moldings, clips, edging;
• elements for fastening (dowels, screws and clamps).

We install the sheathing ourselves

Work on internal lining walls begins with assembling the sheathing under the PVC panels. It is done very simply, anyone can assemble the sheathing with their own hands. The material from which it is made is wooden slats or metal profiles. Wall sheathing It is attached using a self-tapping screw with a dowel, right through to the wall panel. Then all installed slats must be leveled so that the structure is level.

Wooden slats of 10x50 mm are suitable for the frame; they can also be used to level the surfaces of the walls; all wooden parts must be treated with an antiseptic.

Make the frame in increments of 30-50 centimeters, the design is quite simple and linear, there are no special tricks in it. It is necessary to make a frame along the entire wall; it is unacceptable for the ends of the PVC panels to hang in the air, they must be completely fixed. For insulation or additional insulation, the necessary material can be added to empty openings.

How to cover walls with plastic panels

Wall covering can be done in three ways. If the walls are level, these panels can be installed with glue to PVC materials, universal glue or liquid nails. The disadvantage of this method is that during repairs these materials damage the walls and it is quite difficult to replace them.

The second method is to use self-tapping screws for fastening. To do this, a wooden frame is mounted on the walls in half-meter increments. This basis is measured by level and if there are errors, they are corrected immediately. Also, the wood and frame must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

The third method is to use metal guides on the wall and fasteners in the form of clips or clamps. The latter are mounted on metal guides and secure the panels. This method makes it possible, if necessary, to repair a separate section of the wall.

When the panels are positioned horizontally, the sheathing is carried out in the vertical direction. When the panels are arranged vertically, the guides are mounted horizontally. First, the upper part of the frame is mounted, and then the rest. Before installation, everything is measured and lines are drawn. Then the guides are placed and secured along them. When installed in a vertical direction, the frame is made from the corner of the room. The guides are secured with dowel nails or self-tapping screws.

The intermediate guides should be in the same plane as the main ones. If wiring is necessary, the cable is secured so that it does not touch the top of the frame. Holes for sockets and switches are made with a stationery knife. After installing the panels, protective boxes are inserted.

The panels are mounted from the far corner or from top to bottom. To create a neat and beautiful view for corners and edges you can use plastic moldings

The last panel is installed with special care and precision to ensure a smooth surface. If necessary, the panel can be cut to size

Useful article: Finishing house facades with building materials

The upper part of the wall under the ceiling is covered with ceiling plinth. Below, the plastic is also covered with a plastic plinth. This type of wall covering has many advantages and when renovating, many people use this material to decorate kitchens, baths, living rooms and hallways.

Do-it-yourself wall covering with plastic panels - good way V short time carry out inexpensive wall cladding. Do the renovations in the apartment yourself, then you can realize any design ideas and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere.

Installation of sheathing

Guides on which PVC panels are attached for interior decoration, are installed perpendicular to the direction of installation of the casing. Between them there are intermediate bars/profiles, the distance between which is 500-600 mm. Before installation, markings are made.

A mandatory strip is installed at the bottom (closer to the floor) - it provides additional rigidity to the structure. The profile/beam should also be secured on top. This may be near the ceiling or below. It all depends on the level to which the cladding is carried out.

Paneling

Starting and finishing profiles are installed at the top and bottom, where each panel is inserted. The installation begins from the corner that first “catches the eye” upon entering the room. Here the corner molding is installed (attached to the sheathing using the chosen method).

Then the panel is inserted with the side where the small one is located. mounting strip PVC panels. A large fastening strip is used for fastening to the sheathing.

Each subsequent PVC panel should fit as closely as possible to the previous one installed. It is recommended to use silicone sealant to seal the joints. It is applied to the side edge before installation.

The final stage

When covering the balcony with the main material is completed, you need to cover all the edges with moldings. These could be corner areas or areas where a material color transition is used.

Cutouts for switches and sockets are also made after finishing the balcony cladding. Special boxes are installed in the finished openings.

You just need to correctly calculate the amount of material and add a small margin to the resulting number, and also carefully mark the sheathing and the panels themselves. This will avoid wasting time and effort on dismantling an erroneously installed structure.

Finishing instructions

The installation process consists of several stages. For correct execution finishing should be observed for each of them. To obtain Additional information, you can watch the proposed video, where you will see how walls are decorated with plastic panels by professional craftsmen.

Surface marking

To avoid distortions, fastening the sheathing should only be done level. You can save time on measuring each batten by marking the wall. At a height of 1–2 cm from the floor, mark a point with a pencil and draw a horizontal line from it using a level along the perimeter of the entire area for finishing. This will be the bottom row of the sheathing. We repeat the process similarly under the ceiling. Now, at a height of 40–50 cm from the bottom line, we place a beacon and repeat this until the very top. Through installed beacons draw parallel lines and complete the marking.

Typically, plastic panels are attached perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame should be sheathed vertically. Otherwise, we do the opposite. To create such markings, you need to draw the first line in the corner between the ceiling and floor using a plumb line. The second angle is also marked, and lines are drawn in increments of 50 cm.

Installation of sheathing

When the sheathing is mounted from wooden beams, they should be primed with an antiseptic in advance. On the wall, along the marked lines, you need to drill holes for dowels using a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm from each other. After this, you need to attach slats to the lines and secure them with self-tapping screws.

In uneven areas, you can place a wooden wedge under the sheathing. To hide the wiring under the trim, you need to take measurements and drill holes in a certain place. After this, the wires should be secured with clamps so that they are outside the plane of the sheathing.

Fastening plastic panels

Installation of the first lamella should be done in the most visible place: the far corner from the entrance. After making the necessary measurements, if necessary, you need to cut the length of the panel with a hacksaw. Having adjusted the size, you should insert it into the side molding on one side, and secure it to the sheathing on the other. The second panel needs to fit exactly into the groove of the first. Then it is pressed tightly and fixed with the frame slats. We install other plastic panels in the same way.

To achieve greater sealing, you can coat the side edges with a small layer of silicone. When inserting the last panel, cutting to width is most often required. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall, draw a cutting line and remove the excess with a hacksaw. Don't forget about switches and sockets. For them you need to cut holes with a sharp knife, and after installation is completed, these places should be covered with plastic boxes.

Installation of moldings

When finishing the process of decorating walls with plastic panels, it is important to ensure that the final walls are smooth, monolithic and without gaps at the seams. To do this, you need to cover all joints, corners and connections with plastic moldings.

They are designed to allow panel edges to be inserted on both sides. Thanks to this, the finish will look much more attractive.

It is also necessary to install decorative molding where the wall meets the ceiling. And along the perimeter of the floor it is necessary to secure plastic skirting board. After this, you can enjoy the work you have done with your own hands.

Where to start construction

Let's start with the tools that are needed to get this job done:

• drill or hammer drill;
• construction stapler and staples for it;
• silicone sealant (matching the color of the panels or colorless);
• screws or dowels;
• level and roulette.

Now as for the plastic panels themselves. Modern market building materials will offer you not only different manufacturers and different quality of plastic panels, but a wide selection of colors (plain, with or without a pattern), imitation natural materials, sizes and much more. Its popularity is due primarily to its a huge amount advantages.

1. Firstly, it is its availability, because compared to other facing materials, plastic panels are relatively cheap, so everyone can purchase them.
2. Secondly, the ease of installation, which is expressed in the fact that anyone, without exception, can do it with their own hands correct work with this material. In addition, the panels can be placed vertically, horizontally, or diagonally, and they fit together perfectly, without seams.
3. Thirdly, plastic has high moisture resistance, so it is often used in bathroom and balcony cladding.
4. Fourthly, they are very practical to care for, that is, they can be washed and cleaned with any household detergents, without paying special attention to the composition and concentration.
5. Well, fifthly, this is the durability of this material and its practicality.

First install the panel fastening elements. This is the final element and also the internal or external corner. If you are going to panel the entire wall up to the ceiling, then install a ceiling plinth.

We begin work on covering walls with plastic with our own hands with preparatory activities:

• we level the ceiling and walls, and then measure them;
• we buy the plastic itself, but it’s better with a reserve and taking into account the place where you are going to use it (hallway, balcony or other), as well as the interior of the room;
• guides and, if necessary, heat and sound insulating material.

Now let's move on to working directly with the sheathing and panels. You need to know that the installation of plastic panels can be carried out in two ways: frameless and framed.

The latter option is used much more often, since the plastic cladding is made just for the frame. Well, the frameless version is used mainly for covering balconies with plastic, so as not to reduce the already insufficient space.

Material selection

Naturally, you want to quickly cover the walls with plastic panels, but you need to select them first. And this should be approached with the utmost care. After all, the final result depends on the correct choice. The following rules are taken into account:

• For bathrooms and shower rooms, as well as for all types of wet rooms, panels that are moisture resistant and have no relief are suitable.
• For corridors and balconies (loggias), it is better to choose products that are resistant to mechanical damage.
• Wall decoration with wall panels in living rooms– carried out with PVC coatings, which have different relief and patterns. They also imitate natural materials.

Plastic lining has good moisture resistance, so it is often used for finishing bathrooms

When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the following indicators:

Appearance of the packaging. It must be intact, without damage

It is important to choose material from the same batch.
Number of cells. The bigger, the better

You can also navigate by weight. Light products are a sign of deficiency.
Lock. To do this, check the two selected panels for connection - it must be reliable.
Price. Products that are too cheap are most likely a fake.

Covering walls with panels requires preliminary calculations. They concern all stages of work. This helps to avoid problems in the future, as well as significantly save money and time.

• The location of the profiles is taken into account. It can be vertical or horizontal. This depends on the installation of plastic panels. In any case, they are always perpendicular to the sheathing posts.
• The distance between them is also taken into account, which is 30 - 45 cm. From everything it is calculated required quantity frame parts (+ two profiles along the edges of the wall).

• The number of dowel nails is taken into account in increments of 35-50 cm.
• There are 20-25 clasps per square meter.

• The size of the wall and the selected panel is measured. One indicator is divided by the other, and the required amount is obtained.
• The material in the form of tiles is calculated based on square meters.

This group includes all other parts and moldings. For calculations, measure the entire perimeter of the room. The number of external and internal corners is taken into account.

Additional elements that may be useful when decorating walls with plastic panels

On a note! All calculations are made with a margin of 10%. This reserve is due to the fact that various damage to products or other unseen circumstances. Door and window openings are also taken into account.

General recommendations for working with polyvinyl chloride panels

• Before starting work, let the PVC panels lie in the room for at least 2 hours.
• Finish the walls only after the floor and ceiling are done.
• Make removable panels in the places where communications are located.
• Draw the electrical diagram for the room in advance and prepare sheets of PVC panels: cut holes according to the location of the fittings in the diagram.

The use of PVC panels greatly reduces time and material costs during repairs. You can install plastic sheets yourself. At the same time, the appearance and quality of work will not be affected: plastic sheets are so easy to install that even a novice in repairs can handle them.

How to install a frame base

You should start by installing the frame (sheathing).

First of all, you need to purchase the guides that are needed for the sheathing.

Need to pay Special attention on the quality of installation, or more precisely, on the evenness of the installed panels. Guides are made from two main types of material - wood and metal; plastic guides have recently appeared on the market, but this is still rare

Guides are made from two main types of material - wood and metal; plastic guides have recently appeared on the market, but this is still rare.

If you choose wooden slats, then it must be a well-dried material with dimensions of at least 50 mm in width and thickness of at least 20-22 mm.

We determine the length based on the height of the room, but take a few centimeters in reserve, since the ceiling may not be perfectly flat and it is easier to trim off the excess than to make it short.

Metal guides are of standard sizes and experts still recommend using them.

The sheathing is installed based on how the panels will be located. Let's consider the most common method of placement - vertically.

In this case, we place the guides horizontally - the topmost and bottom profiles, which we fasten with dowels or self-tapping screws and align strictly according to the level. Next, we attach the guides between them (intermediate) at a distance of no more than 50 cm.

In the event that the wall being finished does not complete the cladding process, then it makes sense to install internal or external corner molding in its corner, everything will depend on the corner of the room itself.

Also, when you install plastic panels with your own hands, you will come across the concept of a profile (sometimes called molding) - these are wall finishing elements that greatly facilitate the work, and it is on them that the panels will be attached.

So, for example, the starting profile is used to determine the departure point of all finishing works, it is attached first.

The finishing profile is installed before the very last panel. External corner profile is used for covering areas such as windows, doors and niches. Internal profile - in all corners inside the room. Docking - when the length of the panel is not enough and you need to add another one, or if you are using a design solution and you need to build a mirror or other object into the wall.

Features of PVC wall panels

PVC sheets are a modern finishing material that has a number of advantages. That is why they are often preferred to other types decorative coatings. On to the positives PVC use can be attributed:

• Plastic panels are an environmentally friendly material that does not emit harmful substances during operation. This property allows the panels to be used in residential premises, including children’s playrooms.
• Wide choose design solutions: PVC stone or tile, floral prints and children's images.
• The surface of PVC panels is suitable for recycling: it can be painted, painted and pasted over.
• The plastic is assembled in the form of small cells, which allows it to retain heat for a long time.
• The panels are easy to adjust to each other, which allows you to finish the room yourself in a short time.
• The panels can be laid horizontally, vertically, diagonally relative to the floor and ceiling.
• The plastic is durable and can withstand the weight of accessories: electrical sockets, ventilation hatches, hooks and shelf fastenings.
• The plastic from which PVC is made is frost-resistant: it can be mounted on open balconies or verandas.
• PVC panels are water-repellent, so they are used to decorate rooms with high humidity. Finishing the toilet with PVC panels will be an excellent solution and will allow you to save on expensive tiles. It is possible to finish with panels that imitate stone.
• To complete the finishing PVC walls do it yourself, no additional preparation of the walls is required.
• The plastic washes well. The gaps between the panels do not allow particles of dust and dirt to pass through.

Despite the obvious advantages, PVC panels are not a panacea for repairs and have a number of disadvantages that do not allow their use in residential premises. These include:

• The panels are laid on the sheathing. In order to install it yourself, you must have special knowledge and tools. Leveling such a sheathing takes a significant amount of time.
• The material does not allow air to pass through; it is not advisable to install it in bedrooms.
• The surface of the plastic is glossy, so it creates glare in strong sunlight. For this reason, it is not recommended to install plastic in rooms where sick people live.
• According to fire safety rules, PVC plastic cannot be placed in corridors and on escape routes: when exposed to fire, the plastic begins to melt and releases additional amounts of carbon dioxide mixed with toxins. This may make it difficult for people to evacuate a burning room.

Disadvantages of plastic lining

1. Despite numerous misconceptions that PVC panels can be easily used for any surface, practice shows that this is not true. For proper finishing, in any case, it is required preliminary preparation. Moreover, we are talking not only about removing old wallpaper and worn-out plaster, but also about installing sheathing. Otherwise, the surface of the panels will be wavy.

Finishing with plastic panels cannot be carried out by a completely ignorant craftsman. It is necessary that a person has at least basic skills in working with plastic panels or, at least, has studied in detail the features of using PVC.

2. Working with plastic requires a special set of tools, which will be discussed below. Even the most experienced worker will not be able to make high-quality repairs with a hacksaw and hammer.
3. Plastic panels are not highly hygienic. Each panel is a hollow structure, inside of which, if not properly cared for, various insects can live, but this is more a rarity than a rule.
4. Plastic can hardly be called a fire-resistant material. Even if you persistently try to set fire to a PVC panel using matches or a lighter, this will be extremely difficult to do. However, in the event of a fire, PVC will not only support the fire perfectly, but also emit a large number of toxic substances.

When purchasing goods, everyone pays attention to the manufacturer. Image and reputation mean a lot and are a kind of indicator of quality

PVC panels in this sense are no exception; there are hundreds of manufacturers on the market, but only a few have won consumer recognition.

Venta (Belgium). The company is a leader in the finishing materials market in Europe and around the world. The company regularly opens new production facilities in the most different countries and in 2003, a plant in Russia began operating. This has made it possible to reduce the cost of slabs for domestic buyers - now Russians can buy models of European quality at affordable prices. The assortment list includes big choice panels of all colors and shades, the products have the property of increased strength, and printed panels are also available.

How not to make a mistake in choosing panels, watch this video.

Preparatory work

The wall surface is cleaned of old coating. The crumbling plaster is removed. Dust and dirt are removed. Perfect alignment no walls required. But if possible, you should try to make them even. This will make it easier to attach the sheathing.

TO preparatory work This includes applying an antiseptic composition to the walls. This prevents the development of fungus, which causes the appearance of bad smell. What will affect human health?

Mold can be prevented by creating an effective ventilation system. If natural ventilation is not enough to ventilate the room, it is recommended to use an electric fan.

Before covering the wall with plastic panels, it is recommended to replace the old metal pipes. Firstly, covering the pipes in the bathroom with plastic panels will make it more difficult to find the leak. Secondly, the pipes are located at a short distance from the surface of the walls. And this will require more extension of the sheathing, which will reduce the area of ​​the room.

List of sources

• svoimi-rykami.ru
• stroy-podskazka.ru
• remontick.ru
• UnasBalcon.ru
• EconomOtdelka.ru
• remontonly.ru
• decorstars.ru
• stroyday.com

Wall decoration with plastic panels is widespread. After the prices for seamless panels, which make it possible to create a solid-looking plane, have dropped, we can talk about a “plastic wave” in interior decoration.

However, there is foam on the wave: information about finishing plastic at first glance there is an abundance, but it is often distorted, and some essential points are obscured. Therefore, when deciding the question: “Maybe we should cover the walls with plastic panels?” It doesn't hurt to deal with them with an open mind.

Plastic as is

The truth about plastic

Plastic panels are harmless

It's right. Technological chemists have long learned to produce high-quality plastics without cadmium, asbestos and other toxic and harmful impurities. Safe technologies for the production of plastics also turned out to be simpler and cheaper than before, so only conspiracy theory fanatics can be wary of counterfeits.

Plastic panels are beautiful

It is truth too. The modern range of prefabricated decorative plastic coverings is wide and rich, just look at the pictures.

Plastic finishing is now “homey”

And that's true. Seamless (more precisely, apparently seamless) plastic panels allow you to get an interior that doesn’t look like an office at all, see fig.

It’s easy to make plastic “personal” and “open”

True again. You can thermally print photographic quality images onto the plastic coating, paint them, and cover them with self-adhesive tape, see the first collection of illustrations. This allows, for example, to make the living room individual with your own hands, and in the bathroom or bedroom to create the effect of a panoramic window (images can be 3D), without starting a complex, troublesome and expensive redevelopment and without giving the opportunity to peek at yourself.

Plastic is comfortable for inconveniences

True again. For any designer headache – various kinds housing inconveniences: niches, corners, etc. There is little light and space in them. It often happens that, having suffered enough with the model, the author is discouraged by the question of the builders: “Listen, man, how should we do this? You can’t sharpen iron on a machine!” Plastic panels have the precision of “hardware” turned on a machine, and, working with inconveniences, the designer can apply any solutions suitable to the case, obtaining a completely acceptable final result, see fig.

Plastic makes it easy to change decor

Is it true. If you pierce the panel with a sewing needle at an angle from top to bottom, and then insert an unbent paper clip into the puncture, then such a hook will withstand from 1 to 3 kg, depending on the quality of the paper clip. 2 punctures are allowed per plastic board, i.e. A heavy oil painting on wood in a baguette frame can be hung several times. In the same way - drapery, brackets for curtains, lambrequins, etc. And if you walk along the freed puncture from bottom to top with a coffee or tea spoon, pressing it with your finger, the hole will be completely smoothed out.

Plastic meets technology

One more truth. Ventilation grates, also plastic or metal, sockets, etc. even on the most painted plastic they look quite natural.

Plastic is resistant and durable

And it is true. In the bathroom or on a “cold” PVC balcony with minimal care lasts for 10-12 years or more. You just need to remember to clean it from time to time: dust eats into the plastic, like everything else, and the tone and pattern become “dirty.”

Myths about plastic surgery

Plastic will fit on any wall

Indeed, it seems that from the walls under the plastic it is enough to tear off the tatters of wallpaper and knock off the swollen plaster. But the sheathing still needs to be leveled! Otherwise, ugly reflections will appear, the joints of the “seamless” panels will not meet, the curvature of the baseboards will be noticeable, and in the end what will come out is what finishers call “lining.” Installing lathing on an uneven wall may turn out to be cleaner, but no less labor-intensive than replastering it. But, unlike plaster, the lathing often “floats” on an unprepared wall and again results in a “lining”.

Plastic requires no skill

Not true again. The final results shown in the pictures require mastery of subtle working techniques and special expensive tools. Attempts to make do with a hacksaw, a square and a drill end in “finishing”.

Plastic is hygienic

Completely untrue. Firstly, plastic walls do not breathe - do not have the proper ratio of moisture resistance to vapor permeability. Breathable walls are a must in the bedroom: don’t wait without them healthy sleep, rest, and what happens in the bedroom besides sleep and rest. Therefore, the bedroom can be decorated with plastic only partially, in the form of decorative panels.

Secondly, the plastic glares and polarizes the reflected light. This immediately rules out decorating the nursery with plastic: medicine and psychology are strictly prohibited.

Finally, the plastic is really easy to clean, and the seams of the “seamless” panels are so narrow that dirt does not accumulate there. But each plastic board is a spatial thin-walled hollow structure with stiffening ribs inside. The voids in the panels are an attractive nest for small house evil spirits. In the southern regions, rich in entomofauna (insects), when dismantling the old plastic sheathing It used to come out of it so much that the red-haired fellow installer would suddenly find himself sitting on the cabinet, with bulging eyes and an open mouth, and could not explain how he had jumped in there without running or what had gotten him there.

Some craftsmen sometimes try to seal the ends of the boards by partially filling the grooves of the installation profiles with silicone before installation. They will be bitterly disappointed: deprived of the opportunity to freely thermally deform (see below), the boards become warped, turning into “lining.”

Plastic is not flammable

The biggest lie. Yes, it is very difficult to set PVC with filler on fire, and it is simply impossible with a match or lighter. But, once in the source of fire, it perfectly maintains the flame, while releasing a huge volume of very poisonous gases.

Therefore, if the apartment catches fire, God forbid anyone! – and with weak or moderate smoke, you feel an unbearable pain in the eyes, the “chemical” smell eats your nostrils and tears your throat, immediately stop extinguishing and run to the Fresh air, leaving your goods to the mercy of the flame. And do not forget to call an ambulance immediately - the poisoning process can begin to develop in full force after a few hours, when medicine is no longer powerless.

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What are they silent about?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), from which plastic panels are made, has quite high coefficient thermal expansion (TTE). Therefore, finishing the walls with PVC panels should be done with a thermal gap of half the width of the narrow flange of the installation profile, see below, and fastening the boards to the sheathing should allow reversible elastic deformations in the plane of the board.

Example: from floor to ceiling – 2540 mm. The width of the narrow profile flange is 12 mm; its wall thickness is 1.5 mm. There are two profiles, on the floor and under the ceiling, so you need to take into account the double thickness of the wall, but the width of the shelf - only ONCE. We have: 2540 – 2x1.5 – 6 = 2531 mm. This is the length you need to cut the boards to.

When installing boards on a soft sheathing or on a wooden frame, this condition is met, but when fastening with flea screws to metal lathing It is highly advisable to use thermal washers, see fig. This complicates and increases the cost of the work, but without thermal washers, in a hot, humid summer in a room without air conditioning, one or several boards at once can suddenly bounce off on their own with a bang. Such cases were observed especially often during the abnormally hot summer of 2010.

For laminate and MDF, special fastening brackets are provided for such cases - gluers, which firmly hold the board on any sheathing, allowing it at the same time to “fidget” a little along. But MDF with laminate doesn’t really expand from heat anyway, and the design of the plastic panels, unfortunately, doesn’t allow them to be secured with gluers.

Design

The design of finishing elements with PVC panels is shown in the figure.

Explanations:

Tool

Installation of PVC panels on walls requires a set of special tools:

Note: When choosing a stapler for plastic, you need to make sure that the slot through which the staples are squeezed out is located as close as possible to its toe. This will make installing the last board much easier.

Installation of plastic

In general, wall cladding with PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

• Arrange the sheathing;
• Install starting, finishing and guide profiles;
• The first board is inserted into the lower installation profile, and then, bent in an arc, into the upper one, the small fastening shelf should be facing towards the starting profile;
• With a mallet, as a rule, the board is brought into the starting profile to the place;
• Attach the board to the sheathing through a large fastening shelf in one way or another;
• The remaining boards are mounted in the same way, including the penultimate one;
• The last board is cut from the side of the LARGE mounting shelf to the width; you need to allow for thermal expansion, see the example above;
• Having bent the shelf of the finishing profile (if it is non-separable) with a spatula, insert the lower end of the last board into the groove of the installation profile and into the finishing profile; this work requires a skilled assistant, or better yet, two;
• Alternately bending sections of the narrow flange of the finishing profile with spatulas, insert the board into it to the upper corner;
• IN top corner at the same time, using two spatulas, bend the shelves of the finishing and mounting profiles, and finally install the board;
• Also, alternately bending the shelf of the finishing profile, attach the board together with the profile to the sheathing;
• install skirting boards.

Notes:

1. When using a special finishing profile, all the difficulties of operations 8-11 are reduced to applying and snapping its flange.
2. A cheap profile from all these manipulations sometimes remains bent or cracks along the edge of the corner. You can correct the defect simply - warm up the damaged area with a household hairdryer and immediately iron it with pressure with a COLD iron with a Teflon sole.
3. For the sake of beauty, the profiles are cut exactly to size along the wall, and then their ends are cut at 45 degrees in a miter box. An option is to fill the cracks with PVC putty or a homemade compound. For this, plastic sawdust is kneaded in dichloroethane until the dough becomes thick. Prepare in small portions as needed; the mixture is not stored.
4. If the sheathing was aligned carelessly, the last board will immediately show this - its edge will bend outward. The result was a “finish”.

Lathing

Lathing based on a metal profile

Made from wooden slats or metal C-profiles, see fig. Insulating mats can be placed in the cells. They are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws in dowels, through or with clamps or mustaches. The latter is more troublesome, but cheaper: all the work can be done using flea screws. Level with a plumb line and a 2 m bubble level, also see figure; Rubber or plywood scraps will be used for gaskets.

The battens are quite simple linear, without intersecting joists, with a pitch of 300-500 mm. But an important condition: the perimeters of both the wall and the openings in it must be completely framed, see the sheathing diagram. There should be no hanging ends of the joists, with the exception of the window sill protrusion; a recess will have to be cut for it in the panel adjacent to it.

Video: installation of plastic panels on wooden sheathing

Slopes

– a real headache for plastic finishers. “Blunt” angles are not produced, and if they were, where would you get slopes for them with precisely maintained angles?

Do-it-yourselfers and professionals offer many ways to cover a slope with plastic, but they all boil down to making the angle of the slope straight. However, SNiP and sanitary rules clearly and unambiguously say: the slope must have the so-called. dawn of the slope, expand inward.

Meanwhile, a very simple method of decorating slopes with plastic has long been practiced, see figure:

• We sew both sides of the slope up to the corner; allow an indent of half the width of the corner shelf.
• We take a regular right angle and cut it along the length of the side of the slope with a margin of 40-60 mm in both directions.
• We cut one of the corner flanges equally at both ends exactly along the length of the edge of the corner of the slope, pos. A.
• From the angle of repose we draw a line with a pencil at 45 degrees, pos. B.
• We apply a corner to the corner of the slope, press it firmly and, following the trace of the line, mark the cutting line on it, pos. B.
• Use a profile cutter or garden pruner to cut off the excess.
• We cut the edge of the corner from the INSIDE with a mounting knife or a shoemaker's knife-jamb to approximately 1/3 of the thickness of the material.
• Apply glue or homemade dichloroethane compound to the corner from the inside.
• We apply it, press it until it opens as it should, wait for it to set - it’s ready.

Soft sheathing

Installation of plastic panels according to soft sheathing It seems flimsy, but in fact it is precisely such cladding, which came out of the hands of the greenest, but careful beginners, that lasts for 10-15 years without signs of damage. Why? The soft sheathing is made of double-sided foam tape, see fig. In terms of thermal deformation properties, it exactly matches PVC, and its adhesive layer is very viscous and elastic: it stretches behind the board and then returns it to its place.

For soft sheathing to be truly reliable, three conditions must be met:

1. Clear the wall of wallpaper, paint and level it with a rough, durable putty (Hercules, Prospector, etc.) to within half the thickness of the tape, 2-4 mm. Sharp small protrusions and depressions are acceptable, so puttying, which is already not difficult, is even easier.
2. Stock up on a high-quality finishing profile; without it, sheathing over soft sheathing cannot be done. However, see the penultimate section.
3. Reduce the contact time of the adhesive layer of adhesive tape with air as much as possible, up to an instant. This is something we need to talk about in more detail.

Installation of sheathing

The lathing scheme is the same as for the others. It is better to take the width of the adhesive tape from 25 mm, and best of all – from 60 mm. Technology:

Installing profiles

The principle is the same - the shortest possible contact of the “bare” tape with the air:

• The long tails of the protective tape are pulled back and the strips are stuck to the “back” with ordinary, narrow and cheap stationery tape;
• Apply the upper installation profile (horizontal), carefully pull out the protective tape from under it by the tail, immediately attach the profile with pressure, and an assistant supports it;
• The lower installation profile is also glued;
• The starting profile (vertical) is applied, the assistant holds it, and the master one by one pulls out the protective tape from under the profile, immediately pressing the profile to the tape, the operation proceeds from the bottom up so that the profile does not hang on the tape even for a short time;
• The finishing profile is also installed.

Panel installation

The panels are mounted similarly to profiles, but with some subtleties.

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are considered one of the most popular materials. They are used for finishing various surfaces, including walls. The advantages of this finishing material include reasonable cost and wide selection color solutions. Another advantage is the possibility of self-installation.

You need to purchase only certified products, since low-quality fakes are not durable enough and quickly lose their original color.

Main advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of plastic-based slabs and panels include:

• increased resistance to moisture and chemicals;
• ease and convenience of installation;
• hygiene;
• fire resistance;
• long term services;
• resistance to fungus and mold;
• democratic price.

The disadvantage of such panels is their low resistance to mechanical stress; therefore, care must be taken during their transportation and installation.

The strength parameters are affected by the thickness of the walls, as well as the number of rigid ribs inside the slab. It’s easy to check the strength: to do this, you need to press your finger on the slab - if it bends, the material will be short-lived.

In accordance with the production technology, PVC panels are classified into two main types: printed and film.

This material also differs in the type of coating - with a shiny and matte texture. The main criteria for choosing panel products are color and pattern, but there are a number of points that should be taken into account when purchasing slats. If the panels are packaged, it is recommended that you unpack them and examine each panel.

1. Inspect the cut. The strength of the material is indicated by thick polymer coating on the back side of the slab and a lintel of sufficient thickness. You can navigate by weight; thick panels are heavier.
2. The plastic must have an identical thickness throughout the entire panel, excluding thickening and thin areas.
3. Evaluate the shape: there should be no defects on the cells and edges.
4. Check the quality and clarity of the pattern with outside. The presence of scratches and blurred marks is a reason to refuse the purchase.
5. Buy panels from the same batch; if this is not possible, match the pattern and color scheme so that the products do not differ in shade.
6. When choosing, be guided by the purpose of the room to be decorated.

Manufacturers offer several types of panel products:

1. Classic lamellas, connected using grooves and tenons, which are plastic boards.
2. Sheet boards similar to plywood sheets.
3. Lining made of plastic, similar to thin wooden panels of different colors.

When selecting materials, take into account the purpose and interior of a particular room. Plastic lining is a wonderful analogue to wooden panels; it is considered more resistant to heat loss.

Sheet-type lamellas are used for cladding spacious rooms. Wall slabs are perfect for finishing kitchens, bathrooms, corridors and other rooms, since they are easy to care for: dirt can be easily removed with a damp cloth or sponge.

The main advantage of plastic sheathing is its low price. The width of the panels is from 20 to 35 cm, the length is from 2.7 to 3 meters, and the thickness is in the range of 8-10 mm. Such parameters and reasonable price make it possible to perform cladding with plastic boards at minimal cost.

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Preparation of surfaces and tools

Finishing work is preceded by calculating the required amount of plastic. Measure the room, and then take measurements of the doors and windows.

The amount of material is calculated based on the method of fastening the lamellas. They can be fixed both vertically and horizontally. In the first case, you need to subtract the width of the door and window openings from the length of the perimeter of the room and divide by the width of the slab. To the resulting value, add two or three panels for reserve.

In the second option, calculate the area of ​​the room and divide it by the area of ​​one finishing element.

Important! Material consumption with this method of fastening increases, since the workpieces have to be cut, so you need to buy 10 percent more - in reserve.

You can calculate the number of slats required for lathing by dividing the height of the wall by the distance between the slatted elements and multiplying this value by the perimeter of the room. The resulting figure is the required number of slats. The calculation is carried out in linear meters.

If plastic sheets will be attached directly to the wall, it is necessary to prepare for their installation.

Clean surfaces of existing finishes, repair walls, seal all cracks and smooth out noticeable defects. Treat the area with an anti-fungal agent. This way, you will protect the walls under the plastic panels from mold, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room.

Fastening PVC panels to a frame base does not require surface preparation.

On a note! Communications can be hidden under a plastic covering.

Frame materials

The frame base can be made of a metal profile, slats of plastic or wood. Each option has its pros and cons.

Wooden frames are used in rare cases and exclusively for dry rooms. Wood is negatively affected by temperature fluctuations and high humidity. Because of this, they are not installed where there is a significant impact of climatic conditions (on loggias, balcony areas and verandas).

The timber is selected with a small cross-section - for example, 3x3 cm. To insulate the walls, a timber with a large cross-section is needed.

U-shaped plastic profiles have many advantages:

• affordable price;
• convenience and ease of installation;
• small weight;
• resistance to humidity and high temperatures.

The profiles are fixed at a distance of 30 cm. Self-tapping screws or dowels are used for this purpose. The profile elements are joined at a certain angle, the material is cut with a hacksaw or special tool- miter box. Thanks to this, smooth cuts are obtained that are tightly adjacent to each other.

Another advantage of PVC profiles is the channels for cables formed by internal holes - communications can be laid in them. The thin frame makes it possible to save internal space, which is especially important for small rooms.

An iron frame is used in most cases for fastening plasterboard boards because it weighs more.

If a metal frame base is used, pipes with corrugated polyvinyl chloride must be used for laying wires. This ensures cable protection from sharp edges iron frame and improves fire safety.

To carry out finishing work you will need the following tools:

• level with tape measure for measurements;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• electric drill (or a hammer drill);
• sharpened knife;
• miter box.

Marking the walls and assembling the frame

Based on the direction of the cladding, the sheathing can be fixed in a vertical or horizontal position and markings can be applied accordingly.

At the border between the ceiling and the slats, install a beautiful plastic plinth, having previously drilled slots for self-tapping screws with a drill for mounting the strips and fastening the plinth. Make grooves for fastening the corner strips in the same way.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide where hanging cabinets, shelves and other decorative elements will be located. In the selected places, secure additional bars in the horizontal plane.

Important! Before installation, do not forget to coat the wood parts with antiseptic compounds.

To avoid distortions that give the wall an unpresentable appearance, when attaching the sheathing, strictly observe the horizontal and vertical, and use a level. Frame slats must be located in a single plane. Make markings on the wall surface so you don't have to try on every detail.

Place the bottom line a couple of centimeters higher in relation to the floor.

Make a mark on the surface of the wall with a simple pencil and draw a line horizontally along the entire perimeter with a level. The same line must be drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the cladding if it does not reach the surface of the ceiling.

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Then you need to measure 40-50 cm from the bottom horizontal line for horizontal fastening of the frame and draw a new line along the perimeter parallel to it. In the same way, keeping parallel, horizontal lines are drawn to the ceiling.

Watch the following video to understand how to properly attach PVC panels to the wall yourself:

Slats to frame basis are fixed perpendicularly. If horizontal arrangement of sheets is necessary, a vertical frame base is assembled. The first line from the ceiling to the floor covering is applied to the wall surface, and the step from the corner is measured using a level. After this, the second corner is marked. Lines are drawn parallel to the corners at a distance of 50 cm.

Experts advise marking the walls with a level and an ordinary thin rope - this way you will get the job done faster. Color the rope with multi-colored crayons and apply it to the wall; colored marks will remain at the points of contact with the surface. Thanks to this technique, you will save energy and, most importantly, time when preparing the wall.

Using the markings at a distance of 50 cm from each other, make grooves for the screws and, attaching slats, secure them. If there are irregularities on the walls, level the frame with wood wedges. If necessary, hide the wires under the cladding. Make grooves in the wall and secure the cables to the wall with clamps: make sure that they are securely hidden behind the frame.

Step by step installation

If you need to insulate the walls, lay insulating material between the frame bars.

Important! The cross-section of the beam must be selected in accordance with the thickness of the insulation.

Polystyrene boards can be used as thermal insulation material. Secure them with glue and additionally secure them with dowels in the form of mushrooms.

The next step is to attach the insulation to the insulated sheathing.

The installation of plastic panels should begin from the corner of the wall - the initial strip is fixed there. The comb of the first plate is inserted into the hole of this strip. If necessary, plastic elements are adjusted to length, and the material is cut with a hacksaw.

On the reverse side, the lamella is attached to the frame base with a stapler. Then the second lamella is mounted in the hole of the first. The parts must fit tightly to each other. Attach them securely to the sheathing. Applying silicone before installation will help to properly seal the joints.

The remaining elements are attached in the same way. The last lamella is inserted into the hole of the pre-assembled end strip. If the panel is too wide, cut it to the optimal size, but no more than a third of the original width.

Important! Don't forget to make holes in the trim for switches and sockets.

After installing the panels, cover the grooves with boxes.

Sheathed walls should look monolithic; the presence of cracks is unacceptable. This type of defect can be avoided by installing plastic moldings in the corners and at joints, which have a specific design that allows the edges of finishing elements to be mounted on both sides. Thanks to them, the corners will take on a more presentable appearance.

At the very end, you need to install moldings around the perimeter of the ceiling surface and openings. A plastic plinth installed around the perimeter of the floor will also help give the finish an attractive look.

Watch another video on the installation of PVC panels:

When decorating indoor walls with plastic panels with your own hands, you need to follow the recommendations of the craftsmen and take note of those tips that will make the work much easier.

1. If the panels are attached to a frame base, there is no need to level the walls to perfect smoothness - it is enough to eliminate obvious unevenness. This way you will reduce the finishing time.
2. The wooden sheathing is fastened exclusively with galvanized dowels and self-tapping screws.
3. The first lamellas need to be perfectly aligned, since the rest of the finishing elements will be aligned with them. If the first sheet is installed unevenly, the entire finish will turn out crooked.
4. The panels must lie down before installation. If finishing is done in the summer, keep them in room conditions day. In winter, the material needs to lie down for two days if it was stored at temperature conditions to minus ten degrees.
5. If plastic panels are mounted in a room with high level humidity (toilet, bathroom), holes for ventilation need to be made in the frame base.
6. Unpack the material carefully as it is easily damaged. Pull the panels out by the edge, each sheet separately.
7. To obtain neat cuts, use a hacksaw with small teeth; It is better to use a metal tool.
8. When installing patterned slats, start trimming from the left corner piece and work your way to the right.
9. The quality of cladding with PVC panels is affected by the evenness of the installation of the frame. Fit the elements closely, then the finish will be smooth.

Follow these tips, and the cladding will look presentable, last a long time and give the premises a cozy look.

Decorating walls with plastic panels is a popular way to decorate a variety of different rooms. This popular material today allows you to create unusual interiors that meet the needs of people with different tastes.

Plastic panels - what are the advantages of facing products?

The products in question are a universal finishing material, which is made from polyvinyl chloride using extrusion technology. Its essence is simple. On special units, a thick molten mass of raw materials is squeezed out through special holes. The latter are completely identical in shape to the manufactured panel. The products obtained in this way are cooled and then cut to specified sizes.

The geometric parameters of PVC panels are standardized. Their height is 26, 27 and 30 cm, width is in the range of 20–37 cm. Based on thickness, such products are divided into two categories – 8–10 mm and 5 mm. Wall decoration with plastic panels is characterized by many advantages:

• wide choice of decor options;
• long service life;
• easy DIY installation using ordinary tools;
• absence of dirt and dust during installation of products;
• the possibility of installation on any surface due to the arrangement of the lathing;
• affordable cost of panels;
• good thermal insulation qualities provided by the cellular internal structure of PVC products (in addition, you can additionally insulate the surface to be finished by installing a layer of appropriate material under the panels);
• Easy care that does not require the use of any special detergents.

Plastic panels for walls

It is also worth noting that polyvinyl chloride panels are resistant to abrasion and other types of mechanical stress. They are characterized by increased sound insulation, fire and moisture resistance, and the absence of substances harmful to humans in the composition of the products. The described operational advantages explain why wall decoration with PVC panels is so popular these days. Installation of plastic sheathing is not recommended in places that are intended for people to exit buildings in the event of a fire (staircases and openings). This limitation is due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride, when burned, emits strong suffocating smoke and caustic compounds into the atmosphere.

PVC products for wall cladding - choose to suit your taste

The panels we are interested in may have special properties, which makes it possible to select the optimal finishing material for different rooms in the house. Experts advise installing plastic panels on balconies and loggias of residential buildings that have increased resistance to mechanical stress and seasonal temperature fluctuations. But bathrooms are characterized by a high level of moisture resistance, they have a minimum of protruding elements (sometimes their complete absence) and at the same time have high strength.

Balcony finished with PVC panels

These rooms, as a rule, have a small area, which increases the risk of a person colliding with cladding parts. If it is not strong enough, you will have to constantly repair or replace the panels. The materials described for finishing work differ from each other in the type of their coating. From this point of view, panels are:

1. With offset printing on the surface. Such products are resistant to chemicals and physical impact, as well as moisture. First, some kind of ornament or design is applied to offset panels using paints, and then they are treated with a special varnish with antistatic properties.
2. Laminated. In this case, a special layer is glued to the surface of the facing material. protective film. In most cases, it imitates natural leather, stone, and wood. Such plastic panels not only have a chic appearance, but also have a long service life due to the special qualities of the film used (it is abrasion-resistant, not afraid of sunlight and water).
3. With thermal printing on the surface. These products are produced using complex technology, and therefore have a fairly high cost. First, a pattern is applied to the surface of the workpieces - a thermal film is applied and pressed down with a silicone press heated to 170–180 °C. As a result of this effect, the paint transfers to the panels, which are wound onto reels in a continuous roll. Thermal printed products have unusual decor and very rich color. They are UV resistant. Please note that such products are not subject to additional varnishing. It is not necessary. They look great anyway.

A priori, high-quality PVC products cannot be cheap. Don't try to save money on finishing materials. If you purchase cheap panels, you will absolutely have to change the skin after a couple of years of its use.

Calculation of materials for installing planks - how not to spend too much?

Wall covering with plastic panels is carried out either directly on the surface to be covered (in this case, a special adhesive is used) or on a pre-mounted sheathing. The second method is used more often. It allows you to install PVC products yourself even on very uneven surfaces. We will describe in detail the process of installing polyvinyl chloride panels using both methods. But first, let's talk about how to correctly calculate the required number of plastic products, fasteners and profiles for assembling the sheathing. If you carry out the calculations correctly, you will not have to buy extra materials.

Installation of PVC panels

Deciding on the number of racks is easy. Here you need to know that the sheathing slats are always installed perpendicular to the wall finishing products used. When PVC panels are positioned vertically, the slats are attached horizontally, and when positioned horizontally, vice versa. The recommended distance between individual profiles is 0.3–0.5 m. Having decided how you will mount the panels, you can begin to calculate. Let's say you're satisfied vertical installation battens. You need to find out the number of racks required for its arrangement. Measure the length of the wall to be tiled and divide this value by the distance between the individual racks, and then add another supporting element to the result obtained (for the outermost profile).

If the wall has a length of 400 cm and a height of 300 cm, you divide 400 by 50 (the maximum distance between the supports), add one and get the number 9. It says that to arrange the sheathing you need to buy 9 racks from a hardware store (their the length will be 300 cm). You also need to add two more guides. This is due to the fact that the lathing is installed along the entire perimeter of the wall surface. The length of the guides must be equal to the dimensions of the wall being tiled. If you want to position the sheathing horizontally, the calculation principle will remain the same. But in this case, you need to focus not on the length of the wall, but on the height of the ceilings.

The number of panels is determined as follows. Measure the length of the surface and divide this value by the width of the PVC panel used. If you purchased 20 cm wide planks, you will need 20 plastic products to finish the wall. Moreover, their height must be the same as the height of the ceiling in the room. When installing the products in question without lathing, it will be correct to calculate the required quantity per square meter. You calculate the square footage of the wall and decide on the required number of panels. Calculating fasteners also does not cause any special problems for home craftsmen who are accustomed to making different types DIY repairs. Remember - for every half meter of the length of the surface to be coated, 1 dowel-nail should be installed. This is quite enough for reliable fastening of the sheathing.

In cases where installation is carried out using clamps, pay attention to next tip. The sheathing will hold firmly if you use about 20 fasteners for each square of surface.

We make the sheathing and install the panels - how to create beauty?

The frame for installing the finishing material is installed on surfaces that have significant unevenness and height differences. In addition, what is important, it is possible to lay a layer of insulation under the sheathing. The frame can be made with your own hands from metal or plastic guides (profiles) or from wooden slats. There is no significant difference between them. These products differ only in the method of fastening the panels to the created sheathing. If you are making a metal skeleton (using aluminum guides), first of all you need to install a starting U-shaped profile. It is mounted under the ceiling.

Lathing for installing panels

The second step is to install the same profile on the floor surface. After this, slats are placed in the mounted profiles. The latter serve directly for fixing plastic panels. The profiles are fastened to the base using self-tapping screws or dowels. The step of their installation is 0.8–0.9 m. Wooden guides are made from bars with a cross-section of 2.5–4x4 cm. The left and right guides (vertical) are installed first. And then between them it will be necessary to mount additional horizontal slats. Fastening of wood elements is most often done with universal self-tapping screws, stainless steel screws or staples.

Plastic frames are considered the most modern. Fungus does not appear on them, they do not rot. But plastic sheathing can be mounted on relatively flat walls. If the surface has significant differences heights, it is better to equip an aluminum or wooden skeleton. Plastic profiles have special fasteners. With their help, you can quickly secure the panel without using screws, dowels, or self-tapping screws. This is very convenient, especially when House master She does the wall cladding with her own hands. If necessary, panels with fasteners can be easily dismantled. However, they do not have any defects. This means that the design can be reused.

The process of installing PVC panels on the sheathing is as follows:

1. Place the very first plastic product in the corner on the finishing profile or on a special corner element. The panel should be well secured (with self-tapping screws, staples, screws, depending on the type of frame).
2. Take the second panel, connect the tongue and groove, and install it.
3. Similarly, join all other PVC products.

You made the cladding yourself! Now you need to take care of giving the finish a completely finished look. For these purposes, floor and ceiling plinths, which are usually equipped with decorative plugs, and moldings are used. Sometimes the joints between individual plastic strips are treated with sealant.

Finishing walls without building a frame - this is also possible

If the walls in your home are smooth, you don’t have to install lathing. In such cases, the cladding is mounted directly on the surface to be finished using liquid nails or other special equipment. Important point! Choose an adhesive that does not contain solvents.

Using glue to install panels

Wall finishing without constructing a frame is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Clean the wall surface thoroughly. Remove remnants of old paint, wallpaper, and other materials. You putty the wall and treat it with a primer. It is advisable that it contains antifungal additives.
2. After drying the surface, proceed to installing the panels. Dilute the adhesive and apply it with a notched trowel, paint brush or roller to a small area of ​​the wall.
3. Place the corner panel first, press it as tightly as possible and wait a while until the glue sets well.
4. Using the same scheme, install the rest of the plastic products.

Don't forget to install decorative parts and additionally treat the gaps between the panels with sealant.

What are the different ways to attach plastic panels to the wall? How to choose material? What tools will you need? All this and step-by-step instruction installation of plastic panels.

Advantages of plastic panels

Polyvinyl chloride is a practical and durable material. It is widely used to decorate the surfaces of walls and ceilings. With the help of a wide variety of its shades, shapes and textures, the interior can be made stylish and beautiful. Advantages:

• immunity of the material to moisture;
• a simple system for fastening wall panels that beginners can do;
• long service life;
• fire safety;
• hygiene;
• ease of washing and cleaning;
• low cost;
• resistance to mold and mildew.

The disadvantage of polyvinyl chloride panels is their low impact strength. It is necessary to carefully check the delivered building materials and carefully install them.

Tools for fixing PVC panels to the wall

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare tools and auxiliary materials that will help with the work:

• for marking - a tape measure with a pencil or washable marker;
• for cutting the canvas - a hacksaw with fine teeth;
• building level, plumb line;
• triangle;
• for processing corners - plastic profile or slats;
• for fixing to the surface - self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, clamps;
• hammer drill, screwdriver;
• antiseptic solution, sealant, glue.

Accessories that will be needed in the process:

• external and internal corners;
• docking, starting and F-shaped profiles;
• ceiling and floor plinths.

To save time, choose a store where the entire set can be purchased in the same place as the main material.

Choosing plastic panels?

The characteristics of polyvinyl chloride depend on the manufacturer. Panels from Europe and China are available on the market. In terms of quality, the participants of the first group overwhelmingly win. The strength of the panel depends on the thickness of the walls and the number of rigid ribs located inside. Optimal indicators: thickness of the front side of the panel - 2-1.5 mm, number of stiffeners - 20-29, total weight of the lamella 2-1.7 kg/m2.

You should not make a purchase if:

• stiffening ribs are deformed or damaged;
• the lines of the drawing are unclear, the edges are blurred;
• the shades of panels from the same stack differ from each other;
• surface scratched;
• the sizes of the segments are different (in this case, attaching plastic panels to the wall will be complicated due to loose fixation).

In order to check how reliable the material is, you need to press its surface with your finger. The front side should bend and return to its original state. If the panel is deformed, this indicates that its composition has a high chalk content and its service life will be short.

Calculation of the required number of plastic panels

Calculations are necessary in order to avoid overpayments due to additional purchases of material. It will also waste time if there are not enough building materials. Fastening PVC panels to the wall involves their vertical or horizontal arrangement. The choice depends on taste preferences. The calculation for the vertical is carried out as follows:

1. 1. We measure the room (perimeter length);
2. 2. Subtract the width of door and window openings;
3. 3. Divide the remainder by the width of one panel.

The result is the number of panels required to decorate the room. You definitely need to add a few extra units to it in case the material is accidentally damaged.

Calculation for horizontal:

1. 1. Measure the area of ​​the room;
2. 2. Subtract the area of ​​door and window openings;
3. 3. Divide the resulting number by the area of ​​one panel from the kit offered in the store.

We add 10% to the resulting value - as a reserve. When installed horizontally, the material will need to be cut, resulting in a small residue in the form of scraps.

PVC lathing: material calculation

When decorating the walls with plastic, you will need to hide the electrical wires. To do this, mount the panels on the sheathing. In order to buy the optimal amount of materials, calculations will also be required here. The lathing is made of metal profile elements and wood slats.

Procedure for calculation:

1. 1. Measure the height of the walls in the room;
2. 2. We divide the resulting indicator by the step of placing the slats in the future sheathing (recommended 50 cm);
3. 3. We multiply the result by the perimeter of the room - we get the length of the profile in linear meters;
4. 4. We measure the height of the corners in the room;
5. 5. Multiply by their number - we get the total footage of the profile for processing corners;
6. 6. Add the perimeter of door and window openings.

As a result, you will receive two values ​​- the length of the slats for the sheathing and the corner profile. Be sure to add extra in case the material gets damaged during installation.

How to install wall panels in a bathroom

For rooms with high humidity, in particular, bathrooms and bathrooms, PVC panels are best suited because they are not afraid of moisture, mildew and mold. With the help of modern decor options, the design of these rooms can be made stylish and laconic without breaking the bank. To do this, you don’t have to buy expensive collectible tiles - use PVC.

The process can be presented in three options:

• using adhesives;
• using self-tapping screws;
• using clamps.

The adhesive is suitable for perfectly smooth and smooth surfaces. Choose any of those sold on the market: liquid nails, universal “Moment” or a specialized composition for PVC panels. Glue will simplify and reduce the cost of bathroom renovation, because there is no need to construct a sheathing. The disadvantage of this option is the difficulty of replacing a damaged panel with a new one, since it will be firmly glued to the wall. It will have to be dismantled along with the outer layer of wall finishing, which will then need to be restored.

It's easier with self-tapping screws. This option is convenient for masking pipes and wires. To speed up the process, it is recommended to use a screwdriver. There is no need to level the surface. The disadvantage is the need to construct a lathing base from wooden slats. This is an additional cost of time and money. Before attaching wall panels to clamps, a metal sheathing must be installed on the wall.

Finishing a bathroom with glue

Before installing plastic panels, you need to prepare the base. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the walls, putty them, let them dry and level them. Before this, the old covering - wallpaper, tiles or peeling paint - is completely removed from the wall.

The putty will hide all the cracks, cracks and unevenness on the walls well. The size of the differences is allowed within five millimeters. If plastic is glued to deep pits or bumps, then over time it will become deformed or come off. Why remove the old coating from the wall? It contains dust, dirt and grease. All this will interfere with the normal adhesion of the adhesive coating. If whitewash is applied to the wall, it is thoroughly washed off, and the grease is removed using detergents. Then a primer is applied and the wall is leveled.

Step by step instructions:

1. 1. Preparing the wall: remove the old coating, clean, putty, sand;
2. 2. Clean the back side of the panel with a damp cloth and dry;
3. 3. Apply glue to the back side of the building material using the dot method in increments of 20 mm;
4. 4. Carefully attach.

When using liquid nails as adhesive composition the panel is then tapped and lifted off the surface for 5-7 minutes. The composition requires airing. After a short break, the PVC returns to the wall.

The frameless method does not involve the formation of corners. As a finishing touch, cladding using ordinary plastic corners is suitable. They do not have grooves, so use transparent silicone to install them.

When finishing around the outlets, first cut holes for them. Take the necessary measurements and mark the place where you need to make the cut. During work, you must turn off the electricity.

Skirting boards are installed last. Self-tapping screws are used for this - with the help of them the material is attached to the wall, before which holes are drilled. The joint areas between the segments of the lamellas are filled with silicone sealant or regular polyurethane foam. This must be done to prevent moisture from getting under the plastic surface of the renewed wall.

Choice of glue?

The modern market offers universal adhesive compositions:

• Moment Crystal;
• Kleiberite 636;
• Emfikol 34012A.

They are suitable for PVC fastenings without professional help. Experts use glue for plastic. The basic rule of choice is to buy in a specialized store. This will protect you from purchasing a counterfeit or expired product. If you decide to buy PVC glue on the market, pay attention to the date of manufacture and the appearance of the packaging. Good quality adhesive composition will provide:

• its quick adhesion to surfaces;
• long-lasting and reliable fixation;
• resistance to temperature changes, moisture, frost.

Kitchen "apron": technology of mounting in a spacer

Most often the so-called. The “apron” in the kitchen is made using expanded clay or tiles. But you need to know how to lay tiles. Those who do not want to spend money on calling a specialist and are confident in their abilities can equip their kitchen using PVC panels. Modern options plastic materials successfully imitate expensive collections of ceramic tiles.

The “in-spacer” technology does not require the use of lathing, adhesive composition or special fasteners. It is suitable for small kitchens, Where work zone covered with one panel sheet. Step-by-step instruction:

1. 1. Place the panel on the tabletop with the bottom edge, cut the material taking into account required sizes supposed "apron";
2. 2. Place the upper part behind the hanging cabinet so that it securely presses the sheet against the wall; fixation can be improved using fasteners in the form of staples;
3. 3. Secure the bottom of the panel with a plinth - it must be securely fixed to the tabletop; it is better to choose a massive and durable option for the floor.

The advantage of this method is that the “apron” can be easily changed to another at any time.

We attach PVC to the lathing frame

Before covering, the wall must be cleaned, but without seriously leveling the surface. Redecorating a bathroom, toilet or kitchen requires additional treatment of the walls with an antiseptic composition and waterproofing.

To make the lathing, wooden blocks of 2x2 cm are taken. For rooms with high moisture content - bathtubs and showers - they are recommended metal elements. Before using wood, the material is thoroughly dried to avoid possible deformation. The bars are treated with an antiseptic. If you decide to use metal, then choose a profile element marked UD (main part of the contour) and CD (contour guides).

The construction of the lathing structure must begin with markings. First, we determine the lower level - it can be on the floor or higher, depending on the design idea. This is where the bottom plinth will be installed. Take the most protruding section of the wall as a guide - it will determine the overall indentation of the sheathing. When adding 2-3 mm to the indentation. This must be done because Wood becomes deformed even under the slightest influence of moisture.

Then the top line of the sheathing and the side levels are determined. Use a building level to level the top and bottom, and a plumb line for the sides. Fixation is carried out using direct hangers. We place screws in increments of up to 25 cm for wood and up to 15 cm for metal. We attach the bars first to the edges, then to the center. This helps avoid design distortions and inaccuracies.

After attaching the upper, lower and side guides, we proceed to installing the internal ones. This is done taking into account the choice of the type of arrangement of the lamellas themselves - vertical or horizontal. Subsequently, the slats will be attached perpendicular to the internal guides.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. 1. We install moldings - external, internal (corner, lower, upper);
2. 2. We fasten the first panel and fix it with a clamp (the edges of the lamellas fit into the upper and lower profile);
3. 3. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the first, fixed in the same way, and so on;
4. 4. We install the material to the end of the wall;
5. 5. We fasten the last panel, taking into account that it fits tightly into the corner area until it stops.

If there are pipes in the room that need to be hidden behind the panels, the sheathing is formed in such a way that they will be located under its frame. Additional angles will be required. Counters, valves and other elements to which access must be opened periodically can be hidden behind a decorative door. To do this, the panel to the guide needs to be “seated” on small hinges.

When choosing and installing a room, bathroom, kitchen, follow the rules:

• You shouldn’t combine plastic with expensive ones finishing materials- stone, tiles, granite, it will look tasteless;
• for small rooms choose panels light shades or with photo printing;
• for rooms with high humidity, smooth materials are suitable; pronounced and deep texture will require constant cleaning, otherwise mold or mildew will appear;
• When choosing panels, try to adhere to the general ensemble and color scheme in the decor.

Plastic panels are a unique modern product with which you can create incredible images. With a little imagination, you can make your home unique and original. Study the instructions provided and feel free to start repairing!