How to make waterproof glue at home. Traditional flour paste recipe

1. PVA glue (polyvinyl acetate) glues wood, cardboard, glass, leather, fabric. The glue is applied in a thin layer to degreased surfaces, connected and compressed. The glue “sets” in 20 minutes. and dries completely in 24 hours. Before the adhesive joint dries, it is easy to clean it with a damp cloth.

2. Universal glue "Moment-1". glues wood, metal, rigid polyvinyl chloride, leather, rubber, felt, decorative laminated plastic, glass, ceramics. The glue is toxic and flammable, so it is necessary to work with it in a well-ventilated area or in outdoors- away from open fire. Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces to be glued (dry, cleaned and degreased), leave for 15 - 20 minutes until the glue dries until it “sticks” (that is, until the glue stops sticking to an applied clean finger), and squeeze them for a few seconds.
When gluing surfaces large area from flexible material, for example, thin rubber and plastic, it is quite difficult to combine surfaces, since gluing occurs instantly and if applied incorrectly, it is almost impossible to change anything. Alignment is made easier by placing a blank sheet of paper between the surfaces to be glued. Gradually pushing out the paper, combine the surfaces and compress them (roll them). It is convenient to apply glue to large surfaces with a metal spatula.

3. Epoxy adhesive is intended for gluing metal, ceramics, glass, wood and other materials, for sealing holes and cracks, and can also be used as varnish coating. The glue is water and oil resistant and is a good electrical insulator.
The prepared glue, as well as its components, have an irritating effect on the skin. Any adhesive that gets on your skin should be washed off immediately. warm water with soap. Glue should not be used to repair food utensils.
The glue is prepared immediately before use by mixing the resin with the hardener in the ratio specified in the instructions (often 10:1). The components are thoroughly mixed for 5 - 10 minutes. The surfaces to be glued are covered with a thin layer of glue and connected with slight pressure. Excess glue is removed, and this can be done immediately or after 4 - 5 hours, when partial polymerization of the glue has already occurred and excess glue can be easily removed with a knife or other suitable tool. Full cure at room temperature occurs within a day. At lower temperatures, curing time increases significantly. The strength of the adhesive joint can be increased by heating the parts to be glued at a temperature of about 100 °C for several hours of glue curing. Strength significantly depends on the accuracy of compliance with the ratio of mixed components specified in the instructions. The resin for commercially available epoxy adhesive usually already contains a plasticizer that provides the necessary elasticity of the adhesive joint. If you prepare the glue yourself, you must add up to 10% plasticizer to the resin before adding the hardener and mix thoroughly. Dibutyl phthalate is most often used as a plasticizer. The hardener is polyethylene polyamine.

4. Adhesives BF-2 and BF-4 glue metals, plastics, wood, glass, ceramics, leather, and are characterized by good electrical insulating properties, but high dielectric losses (tgb = 0.05). BF-2 glue is used when good moisture and heat resistance of the adhesive joint is required. BF-4 glue is preferred if elasticity and frost resistance of the joint are required. To achieve high joint strength, the bonded surfaces must be carefully adjusted to each other (the gap is no more than 0.05 mm), cleaned of dirt and oxides, and degreased with acetone or another solvent. A thin primer layer of glue is applied to the surfaces prepared in this way with a brush, air-dried for about 1 hour or for 15 minutes. at a temperature of 85 - 95 °C. After cooling the parts to room temperature, apply a second layer of glue, allow it to dry, after which the parts are pulled together (for example, with a clamp) and placed in a thermostat or oven, where they are dried at a temperature of 120 - 160 °C for 2 hours. If the parts have low heat resistance, the adhesive joint is dried at room temperature for 36 - 48 hours, but the adhesive strength in this case will be lower.
These adhesives can be used to protect metal parts from corrosion. They spread well over the metal surface and provide a coating that is sufficiently resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. If the glue is too thick, it can be diluted with ethyl alcohol.

5. BF-6 adhesives are used for gluing fabrics, providing strength no less than when sewing. To make the connection invisible, trim the fringe and adjust the edges of the fabric. Then cut out an overlay 1.5 - 2 cm wide from a similar or thinner fabric. The fabric is cleaned of dust and dirt. To prevent the glue from sticking out on the front side of the fabric in the future, the lining and the joint are generously moistened with water and wrung out. Using a brush, apply a thin layer of glue from the underside of the fabric and onto the glued side of the lining. Allow the glue to air dry until tack-free, then apply a second layer and also dry it until tack-free. Apply the pad from the inside out, cover it with a clean damp cloth and press it with a hot iron. Every 10 - 12 seconds, the iron is torn off for 2 - 3 seconds, then pressed again. This operation is repeated until the moistened area of ​​the fabric is dry. Then, without moving the material, allow it to cool to room temperature. The iron should be heated to the temperature recommended for this type of fabric. In a similar way, you can seal a tear, cut, or eliminate a hole in the fabric.

6. Adhesives 88H are good at gluing rubber and other materials to metal. The glue is diluted with benzene to the consistency of liquid sour cream (it does not stretch behind the brush and does not flow from it), spread it on rubber (or other material) and dry for 3 - 5 minutes. Then the second layer is applied to the rubber and the first to the metal. Both layers are dried for 5 - 6 minutes. The parts are connected and the rubber is rolled with a roller and dried for 24 hours (preferably under a press).

7. Unicum glue provides a waterproof connection of products made of wood, metal, rubber, ceramics, leather, leatherette, dense fabrics, foam rubber and plastics in various combinations. A layer of glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued, degreased with acetone or gasoline, after 2 - 3 minutes - another layer and compressed tightly for 5 - 6 hours. It is recommended to use glued products no earlier than after 24 hours. It is necessary to work with glue in a well-ventilated area away from fire, since the glue is flammable.

8. "Mars" glue is intended mainly for gluing leather and leatherette products, but can also be successfully used for ceramics, wood, cardboard, and polystyrene. A thin layer of glue is applied to dry and clean surfaces. After 5 minutes, apply the second layer, connect the bonded surfaces and leave under load for 24 hours. The glue is flammable, and you need to work with it away from open fire.

9. Isocyanate glue provides strong connection rubber with metal. Glue composition: leuconate and dichloroethane in a proportion of 2:8. The parts are cleaned and degreased. The metal is coated with glue and air dried for 30 - 40 minutes. Then the first layer is applied to the rubber, and the second layer to the metal. After 20 - 30 minutes, a third layer is applied to the metal, and a second layer to the rubber. The parts are connected, compressed, heated to a temperature of 180 - 240 °C and dried at this temperature for 10 - 12 minutes.

10. Wood glue is widely used for gluing wood. The quality of the glue largely depends on the correctness of its preparation. The required amount of dry tile adhesive is crushed, poured clean cold water(3 - 5 cm above the glue level) and kept in it for 6 - 12 hours. After the glue swells upper layer The water is drained, the container with glue is placed in a “water bath” and heated over low heat, stirring occasionally, until all the pieces of glue have dissolved. During the preparation process, the temperature of the glue should not exceed 60 - 70 °C, otherwise its adhesive ability will deteriorate. During the gluing process, the temperature of the adhesive solution should be 30 - 50 °C.
When gluing wood along the grain, the surfaces of the parts are coated with glue once, the end surfaces - twice, allowing the first layer to dry. The parts to be glued are not compressed immediately, since hot glue is partially squeezed out, and the glue is allowed to dry for 3 - 5 minutes (the film should be sticky when tested with your finger and stretch into threads). After this, the parts are connected, rubbed in a little, moving them slightly, then squeezed (with a vice, clamps) or tied (with twine, bandage) and left for 4 - 6 hours. When repairing products, the layer of previous glue is removed. To do this, moisten a rag with water and place it on the layer of glue for 2 hours. The softened glue is scraped off with a knife, chisel or spatula.
The strength of the adhesive joint depends on its thickness and the moisture content of the wood. To obtain a strong connection, the thickness of the seam should be no more than 0.1 - 0.15 mm. When wood moisture content is more than 12% (veneer - 5%), the bonding strength deteriorates significantly. A small addition of an antiseptic (borax, phenol, salicylic acid) makes the glue resistant to all types of mold.

11. Waterproof carpenter's glue can be obtained by adding natural alifa to regular carpenter's glue in a mass ratio of 4:1.

12. Adhesive paste is used for priming, puttying and gluing wood parts whose joint gaps exceed 0.2 mm. The paste is obtained by mixing finely sifted ash, or dry sifted chalk, or micanite dust, etc. in hot glue. Glue paste can also be obtained by mixing the above fillers with other adhesives.

13. Syndeticone glue is used for gluing wood and gluing various materials to it.
Glue composition (in grams per liter of water): dry wood glue - 200, sugar - 200, slaked lime - 70. Dissolve sugar in water, then lime and heat over low heat until a clear liquid is obtained. The solution is filtered and crushed wood glue is added to it. The wood glue is allowed to swell for 24 hours, and then it is dissolved in a glue maker in a “water bath.” The glue can be stored in a closed glass container. long time without losing its properties.
When finely sifted ash or dry chalk is added to the glue, a good putty paste is obtained.

14. Casein glue is used for gluing wood, mainly with pressing, cardboard, as well as for gluing paper, fabric, and leather to wood and cardboard. Casein is a light powder, diluted in cold water to the consistency of sour cream, adding water in small portions and stirring thoroughly for 40 - 50 minutes. The glue is ready for use in an hour and a half. Apply the glue with a brush to both surfaces to be glued, which after 4 - 6 minutes are tightly compressed and kept for at least 6 - 8 hours. Complete drying will occur in 18 - 20 hours.
Dried glue is much more resistant to high temperature and humidity than wood glue. The addition of aluminum alum (100 g/l) makes the adhesive joint more water-resistant. The glue must be antiseptic, otherwise when hygroscopic materials dry slowly, mold will form and the parts may be damaged. For antiseptic use, the glue is diluted in a 10 - 15% ammonia solution ( ammonia) or add 200 g/l of borax to it. It should be remembered that glue leaves stains, especially noticeable on light wood, and over time these stains may become more contrasting.
Over-sitting (more than 4 - 6 hours) and thickened glue should not be diluted with water: it has lost its adhesive ability.
15. Bookbinding glue is prepared from carpentry glue by adding glycerin (1/20 of the glue volume) to liquid hot glue (directly in a “water bath”).

16. Glue for cardboard is prepared by dissolving 9 g in 100 ml of water. office (silicate) glue, 6 g. potato starch and 1 gr. Sahara. The resulting slurry is heated until a homogeneous mass is formed. You can glue cardboard with many other glues, but glue according to this recipe gives a stronger connection than, for example, flour paste, and is also cheaper than many other glues, which is important when glue consumption is high.

17. Dextrin glue is a common glue for paper. Prepare glue by diluting dextrin with cold water (400 g/l). You can prepare dextrin yourself by heating dry potato starch on an iron sheet to 400 °C and grinding the resulting brown opaque lumps into powder.

18. Tissue paper glue can be prepared by adding enough denatured alcohol to dextrin glue to make a syrupy liquid. This glue does not bleed through the paper.

19. Gum arabic - glue for paper and cardboard made from gum (thickened juice of some fruit trees, for example cherries, plums, apricots). The gum is crushed into powder and diluted with warm water to the consistency of liquid sour cream.

20. Starch paste - glue for paper. Potato starch at a rate of 60 - 80 g/l is dissolved in cold water (1/5 of the total volume of water), stirred thoroughly, brewed with boiling water (4/5 of the total volume of water) and borax (25 g/l) is added. The paste is usually used cold.

21. Flour paste - glue for paper and cardboard. To prepare 1 liter. For paste, take 200 g of wheat flour and 50 g of dry wood glue. The flour is diluted in cold water and boiling water is added while thoroughly stirring until a liquid slurry forms. Then pour in wood glue dissolved in water. Cook the resulting mass over low heat, stirring continuously so that it does not burn. When the paste begins to bubble and turns bluish, the paste is ready.

22. Photo glue can be used for gluing scales and nameplates made on photo paper. Composition of photo glue (in grams per liter of water): starch - 60, aluminum alum - 40, chalk (tooth powder) - 40, dry blue - 1. About half total number The water is heated and alum is dissolved in it. The remaining water is used to prepare a starch paste. The alum solution is poured into the paste and stirred well. After half an hour, add chalk (tooth powder) and blue and mix thoroughly. Store glue in a closed glass container.

23. Glue for joining fabric, dermantine and leather with wood can be prepared according to the following recipe (in mass fractions): mix wheat flour (40), rosin (3), aluminum alum (1.5), add all this with water (100) and stir thoroughly. The resulting doughy mass is placed on low heat and stirred until the mass begins to thicken. Gluing is done with hot glue.

24. Protacryl - plastic mass - universal high-quality adhesive and coating, which after sanding and polishing gives a decorative moisture-proof surface. Widely used in dental practice. It is insoluble in acids, alkalis, mineral oils, and adheres well to various materials- metal, glass, porcelain, plastic, wood.
Protacryl consists of powder and liquid, which are mixed immediately before use in a ratio of 2: (1 - 1.1) in a glass or porcelain container and stirred for 1 - 2 minutes. At the same time, avoid getting air bubbles into the mass (the spatula should always touch the bottom of the dish when stirring the mass). The powder should be completely saturated with liquid, the surface of the mass should become uniform and shiny. The readiness of the mass is determined by the appearance of threads trailing behind the spatula. The surfaces to be bonded are cleaned of dirt and thoroughly degreased with acetone, gasoline or some other organic solvent.
Apply glue to both surfaces, then combine them and lightly compress. Complete polymerization at a temperature of 40 - 45 C occurs after 15 - 20 minutes, at room temperature - after 30 - 70 minutes.
For achievement required thickness Protacryl coatings can be applied to the surface in several layers. Places not to be coated are lubricated with silicone oil or rubbed with graphite powder. Ordinary sunflower oil gives slightly worse results.

25. Celluloid glue is a solution of celluloid in acetone. To prepare such glue at home, you need to dissolve pieces of celluloid (2 - 3 g) in acetone (100 ml). The glue is applied to the grease-free surface with a brush or wooden spatula, allowed to dry for 2 - 3 minutes, after which the parts are tightly connected and dried at room temperature for about an hour.

26. Glue for polystyrene - a solution of polystyrene shavings (4 - 6 g) in benzene (10 ml). The gluing technology is the same as for celluloid, but the drying time is 10 - 12 hours. You can also glue polystyrene parts with pure acetone, which dissolves this material well. In addition, Unicum or Mars glue is used.

27. Glue for organic glass can have one of the following compositions (solution of organic glass shavings):
0.5 - 1.5 g chips, 100 ml dichloroethane.
3 - 5 g of chips, 100 ml of 85% formic acid.
3 - 5 g of shavings, 100 ml of glacial acetic acid.
0.5 - 1 g of shavings, a mixture of acetone (60 ml) and vinegar essence (40 ml).
In addition, organic glass can be glued with pure dichloroethane. To do this, it is applied to organic glass with a brush until the surface layer of the parts begins to dissolve slightly. It is better to work with dichloroethane outdoors, as it is toxic. You should avoid getting it on damaged areas of the skin.>

28. Glue for ebonite is prepared by mixing pure rosin powder (6 parts by mass) with linseed oil (1 part). The composition is heated, stirring, and brought to a boil. After cooling, the glue remains indefinitely. The surfaces to be glued are treated with a rasp, heated at a temperature of 50 - 70 °C for 15 - 20 minutes and glue heated to a boil is applied to them.

29. An adhesive solution of polystyrene foam in dichloroethane or acetone is resistant to alkali and alkaline electrolyte and can serve protective film for painted surfaces. The solution is prepared in a clean glass container by pouring the solvent into small pieces of foam. The solution should have the thickness of silicate glue. Apply a thin layer of solution to a degreased surface with pure gasoline or acetone and dry it with a brush and dry it. Then the surface is covered with paint or bitumen varnish and, after drying, the solution is applied again. As a result, a layer of paint or varnish will appear between two layers of alkali-resistant coating. This method is good for coating, for example, alkaline battery banks. The solution is toxic and volatile. It is necessary to prepare the solution and work with it outdoors or in a room with good ventilation. The solution should be stored in a container with a ground stopper.

30. Glass glue is prepared by dissolving gelatin into equal amount 5% solution of potassium dichromate. The glue is prepared in a darkened room. The parts are coated, tightened with a clamp or, for example, tightly wrapped with threads and kept in the light for 5 - 8 hours. The glue does not dissolve in hot water.

31. Adhesive for glass and ceramics can have one of the following compositions:
A solution of casein in liquid glass (or silicate glue).
Gypsum mixed with egg white.
Gypsum soaked for a day in a saturated solution of aluminum alum, then dried, ground and mixed with water (this best composition for gluing ceramics).
A solution of dry finely ground chalk (tooth powder) in liquid glass in a ratio of 1:4 (by weight).
All these glues should have the consistency of sour cream.

32. Paste for gluing glass to metal is convenient for large areas of bonded surfaces, as it has a liquid consistency. The adhesive connection is quite strong. Composition of the paste in mass fractions:
Midi oxide - 2.
Emery powder - 2.
Liquid glass - 6.
The mixture is ground until a homogeneous mass is formed. The glued parts are heated to 100 °C and maintained at this temperature for 2 hours, then cooled to room temperature. After 12 - 14 hours the paste will completely harden.

33. Heat-resistant adhesive paste is suitable for repairing vitrified resistors, for insulating their leads, and also for insulating heating elements. Dried talc (6 parts by mass) is mixed with liquid glass (or silicate glue), which is taken enough to obtain a mass of sour cream consistency (approximately 8 - 12 parts). Damaged or moldable areas of the coating are coated with paste and dried at room temperature for about an hour. Then the part is heated to 100 - 110 °C and kept at temperature for 10 - 15 minutes.

34. Putty for fastening steel reinforcement in stone can be prepared according to the following recipe in (mass fractions:
Mix the dry ingredients - iron filings (100), gypsum (300), ammonia (5) and dilute this mixture with 9% so-called table vinegar (40 - 60) to the desired consistency. The resulting putty is used immediately.

35. Locking putty prevents spontaneous unscrewing of nuts, replacing various locking washers. Talc is mixed in nitro enamel in a ratio of 1:3 and diluted to the desired consistency with acetone or solvent for nitro paints.

36. Putties are used to fill minor flaws and level the surface of metal, wood and plastic products before applying decorative paint and varnish coatings.
Select putty from the table depending on the material of the product, the condition of its surface and paint coating, which will be applied.

Probably everyone knows how to properly glue parts (surfaces) together. After all, on any tube of glue everything is written in detail. Now we will look at several options on how to make very strong glue at home. For many, such opportunities will be a real discovery.

First, let's repeat the general rules for gluing objects:

1. The surfaces to be bonded must be well cleaned of various contaminants, fat and old glue.
2. For stronger bonding, the surface must be rough; this can be achieved using a file or sandpaper.
3. Why must the glue layer be thin? Thick layer glue “creates” conditions for the emergence of forces that “expand” the adhesive film. Therefore, with more thin layer, a stronger bond is obtained.
4. It is necessary to apply a weight to the adhesive seam, use manual force, or tighten it with ropes.

So, we know how to properly glue the sole of your favorite slipper, or glue two halves of a cup together. But none of us plans to break or tear anything, and specially, “just in case,” does not keep universal glue at home. Or, as always, it ended at the wrong time.

What can replace factory glue?

1. Unusual adhesive for linoleum and tiles can be made from polystyrene foam and acetone.

This is done very simply: crumble the foam into the place that needs repair and spray it with acetone. As soon as the foam begins to melt, press down on the surfaces to be glued.
** This unusual product is very convenient for gluing the sole. In the same way, pour foam into the hole, drop 10-15 drops of acetone, wait a little and press.

2. Ordinary garlic will help you glue glass and plastic products. You just need to grease two surfaces with a cut garlic clove.

3. If there is chalk and “ liquid glass", then you can make fireproof putty. It will also help you glue porcelain and glass.

4. It fell off tile? A mixture of tooth powder and ordinary silicate glue (stationery glue, for gluing paper) will help correct the situation. Craftsmen say it works very strong glue.

5. Cut the remaining linoleum into small pieces (without a fabric base), put it in a jar and fill it with acetone. After 10 hours you will have a permanent glue ready. If you add chalk 1:1 to it, you get mastic.

6. If you have wood glue in the house, you can make it more waterproof by adding drying oil to the hot glue solution (25 g per 100 g of dry glue).

Use these tips if you have an extra piece of linoleum or foam on hand.

In my house, of all the above, I only found garlic and acetone, and also factory-made super glue, bought once “just in case.”

It often happens that during the repair process there is not enough adhesive or adhesive with the required characteristics cannot be purchased in the store. In such situations, you can make PVA glue yourself, that is, in normal home conditions. And in order to make high-quality PVA glue, you will need a base that is available in every housewife’s kitchen.

The modern consumer can purchase several options for the adhesive base:

1. PVA stationery. The adhesive has a non-waterproof base and is not allowed to be used outside the house.
2. Household PVA glue, which is most often used for wallpapering. This type The adhesive base has increased frost resistance and retains its properties at temperatures down to minus 25 degrees.
3. The product is brand “M”, super frost-resistant. It is allowed to apply them to surfaces at temperatures down to minus 35 degrees.

Any type of adhesive base provides many advantages:

• resistance to chemical reactions;
• fast setting process;
• lack of specific odor;
• non-toxic base.

The only drawback is its low water resistance. However, thanks additional components, which manufacturers add to the base, the water resistance coefficient of PVA glue has increased significantly.

Making your own adhesive base

As mentioned earlier, if you don’t have it at hand required quantity adhesive, you can quite easily make it yourself, at home. To make high-quality PVA glue, you should prepare the following ingredients:

• distilled water (1-1.2 liters);
• photographic type gelatin (approximately 5-6 g);
• regular glycerin sold in pharmacies (4-5 g);
• wheat base flour (100-120 g);
• ethyl alcohol (20-25 ml).

It is quite easy to buy any ingredient, except photographic gelatin, by visiting a nearby store or pharmacy kiosk. A the right type gelatin should be purchased in advance at a specialty store.

To make high-quality PVA glue at home, you need to follow the recommendations of experts, which you can read on the website at a time convenient for you. Step-by-step instruction preparing the adhesive base at home under normal conditions will be something like this:

• pre-purchased gelatin must be soaked in ordinary water approximately for a day;
• after the allotted time, you need to dissolve the gelatin base in a water bath;
• all the ingredients included in the PVA glue base are added to the dissolved component, except for regular glycerin and ethyl alcohol;
• All ingredients are boiled until the mass acquires the thickness of sour cream, while the mixture must be constantly stirred so that the components do not stick to the bottom of the container;
• Having obtained the desired consistency, the mass is removed from the water bath, cooled slightly, and alcohol and glycerin are added to the substance. All ingredients are thoroughly mixed again, eliminating any lumps that may appear when adding additional ingredients.

At this stage, the PVA glue will be ready; you can use the adhesive in normal home conditions after the mass has completely cooled. It is difficult to refute the obvious fact, which indicates that anyone can make high-quality PVA glue from simple and accessible ingredients.

Recommendations regarding the use of adhesive

To use a base for gluing, it is important not only to make high-quality glue at home, but also to properly prepare the surface to be treated. Experts recommend doing the following before gluing:

• Thoroughly remove any type of dirt and dust from the surface;
• if the surface has a porous base, it must be treated with primer;
• existing old paint must be eliminated, the surface must be degreased with a special compound;
• Before application, the adhesive should be thoroughly mixed in the container and applied to required element a small amount of glue;
• All elements that need to be glued together should be pressed tightly together or a special weight should be placed on them.

Self-prepared PVA glue can be stored for six months. If the substance is not completely used, it is recommended to store the remainder at a temperature of 10-15 degrees with a “plus” sign. If the adhesive is stored at sub-zero temperatures, it can be used for one month. If you encounter any difficulties when making polyvinyl acetate, you can always go to the website and watch the instructional video. The training lesson will be taught by experienced specialists who have made the gluing mixture themselves more than once. The information received will help everyone, without exception, easily make high-quality PVA glue at home under normal conditions.

How to make real PVA glue yourself?

PVA is an adhesive widely used in various areas, and, without exaggeration, is one of the most popular.

And although you can purchase this product without any problems, making it yourself will also not be difficult, which will help out in a situation where you urgently need to glue something together, but the means are not at hand.

Is it possible to make PVA glue at home?

Polyvinyl acetate, better known as PVA glue, is produced in industrial scale on special equipment. The polyvinyl acetate dispersion and filler are mixed in the mortar mixer.

There are different types of this glue (stationery, wallpaper, universal, etc.) and, accordingly, manufacturing recipes. It is difficult to accurately follow the PVA recipe at home, but it is not at all difficult to make an analogue that will be practically inferior in its properties and characteristics.

How can you make PVA glue “with your own hands”?

There are many recipes self-cooking glue. We offer one of the most easily implemented and available recipes, almost all of the ingredients of which are sold at the pharmacy (except for photographic gelatin, which you need to look for in a specialized store, as well as flour - if you suddenly don’t have it at home, you will definitely find it in the nearest grocery store).

So, to prepare PVA you need to take:

• 1-1.2 liters of distilled water;
• 20-25 ml of ethyl alcohol;
• 4-5 g glycerin;
• 5-6 g photographic gelatin;
• 100-120 g flour.

Gelatin is soaked for a day in regular tap water. warm water according to the instructions, after which it dissolves in a steam bath. Flour and distilled water are added, and the mixture is kept on fire until it acquires the thickness of sour cream. During boiling, the mixture must be stirred constantly.

When the required consistency is achieved, the mixture is removed from the heat and cooled slightly. After this, you need to add alcohol and glycerin and stir everything thoroughly so that there are no lumps. If the formation of lumps still could not be prevented (they may appear during the boiling stage), then you can pass the glue through a sieve.

When the mass has completely cooled, it can be used for gluing paper, wood and other parts for which PVA is usually used.

You can store a homemade product for no more than six months. Ideal storage temperature is + 10-15 degrees.

Nothing bad will happen if the glue remains at room temperature, but when the thermometer is minus, the “functionality” of the product decreases sharply. It will be usable for no more than one month.

YouTube video about glue production

In this video you can clearly see how to easily make PVA at home. A very simple recipe that will make it easy to make glue even for those who are trying homemade glue production for the first time.

Manufacturers of PVA glue in Russia

In Russia, many companies produce PVA glue and dispersions. For most of them, this product is only part of the range. These enterprises specialize mainly in the production of paint and varnish products. In addition, there are companies that produce exclusively PVA products, such as Polymer Export, Rikol and others. This large manufacturers, engaged exclusively in the production of PVA glue and dispersions based on vinyl acetate.

When choosing a product, give preference reliable manufacturers, especially if you are going to glue large or expensive objects.

PVA glue is used in a wide variety of applications, from gluing paper to various types industry. This product is widely used in repair work ah (wallpapering, primer, adding to cladding solutions, gluing elements made of wood, fiberboard, etc.)

This adhesive is used in the printing and packaging industries for gluing paper products. It is also widely used in the woodworking and furniture industries, since PVA does not change the color of the wood and allows it to preserve its properties.

In the textile industry, it is used to “strengthen” carpets and join fabrics together. It is also used in the production of glass and paint and varnish products, household chemicals, shoes, etc.

Do you make glue yourself or is it better to buy it?

Prices for PVA glue vary depending on the type of glue, manufacturer, product weight, etc. For example, 1 kg of universal PVA glue costs, on average, from 40 to 60 rubles, a five to ten kilogram container will cost slightly less.

In general, this product has a very reasonable price, and if any complex or important work is expected, then it is better to buy glue made in an industrial environment. But if you already have experience self-made PVA, or there is no way to purchase it, but something needs to be glued urgently, then you can do it without any problems on your own.

What can replace PVA glue?

The problem with replacing PVA most often occurs among those who live in foreign countries, since this product is sometimes quite difficult to find there. If suddenly there is a need to find a replacement, then you need to focus on the material of the surfaces that must be connected. For wooden parts you can buy special glue for wood, for gluing wallpaper - “wallpaper”, etc. Paper or cardboard is glued at home using ordinary paste (made from flour and/or potato starch. So it’s not difficult to find a substitute for PVA, the only negative that such products often cost more than this universal, inexpensive and popular glue.

How to make PVA glue at home

Making PVA glue yourself without leaving home is the topic of today’s article.

Without exaggerating, we can say about PVA glue that it one of the best and most popular adhesive materials. This glue is used for gluing paper, wallpaper, and some other surfaces.

I would like to immediately note that preparing such glue yourself is not a difficult task.

If a situation arises in which you urgently need to glue something together and there is no time or opportunity to go to the store, then you should not be upset, you can prepare PVA yourself. If you follow all the rules and tips, the prepared glue will turn out no worse than the purchased one, and you will be able to save money.

Polyvinyl acetate information

What is polyvinyl acetate? This is the well-known PVA glue. If we talk about the production of glue in industrial scale, then it is made using special equipment. To make it, you need to mix polyvinyl acetate dispersion and filler. All this is mixed in a mortar mixer.

Recipe for making glue at home

There are several ways to prepare glue, but this is the simplest and most common. Besides, everything necessary ingredients Apart from photographic gelatin, it is easy to buy in every pharmacy. True, this recipe will still need flour; of course, you can’t buy it at the pharmacy, but any grocery store, as they say, will help.

What ingredients are needed to make PVA glue?

• Distilled water. You will need about a liter and a half of this water.
• Ethyl alcohol, you need about 25 ml.
• teaspoon glycerin. This is approximately 5 grams.
• the same amount of photographic gelatin.
• And, of course, flour. It will take about 100-110 grams.

1. First you need to soak the gelatin in warm plain water. for a day.
2. Then you need it dissolve using a steam bath.
3. Next, you need to add water and flour to the gelatin.
4. The resulting mixture should be kept on fire until a consistency resembling thick sour cream.
5. While the mixture is on fire, it should be stirred without interruption. After obtaining the required consistency, the mixture must be removed from the heat and allowed to cool slightly.
6. Then you need to add glycerin and alcohol, mix the resulting mixture so that there are no lumps.

Once the mixture has completely cooled, it can be used to glue the same materials for which PVA is usually used.

You can store your own prepared glue no more than six months.

Where can you use PVA glue?

Application area of this product is quite wide. It can be used to glue wallpaper, wood elements, and fiberboard.

Printing, packaging industry, woodworking, furniture industry, they all use PVA glue successfully.

To strengthen carpets and join fabrics, the textile industry also uses PVA glue. Its application also extends to glass production and paint and varnish products. Household chemicals also cannot do without the participation of this wonderful remedy.

Well, what if you need to glue it? something simple If you can’t go to the store, it’s worth practicing making glue. In this way, both PVA will work and practice will appear.

Made by hand, many finishers use it if they strive for more quality product what the construction market offers them.

It is impossible to imagine a construction project without the use of an adhesive, but its production will require knowledge of certain technological processes.

Do-it-yourself wood glue at home is also recommended by builders.

During repair work, anything can happen - the material will run out or objects will begin to fall off due to gluing with a poor-quality substance.

It is necessary to decide on the definition and purpose of wood glue, which by its name is intended to glue “woodwork”.

The remaining adhesives, although they are intended to fasten plastic or paper, are still based on the ingredients for wood glue.

This classic list consists of the following compositions:

• glutinous, created from fibers of cartilage, ligaments, bones, animal origin
• fleshwood, they are prepared from waste from tanned skins
• bone, less resistant to wood gluing
• casein more common in use
• fish, these substances are based on residues from heads, intestines, scales

The technological process, regardless of the recipe, begins by softening all the ingredients, and then boiling the composition. You can begin the procedure after purchasing the necessary raw materials.

Get a quality product independent production possible, since ready-made ones are always available for sale:

• factions
• granules
• colorful tiles

Procedure using own hands for preparing glue means:

• crush the bone composition
• add liquid
• heat to the desired temperature
• mix with additives

Therefore, distributors offer crushed mixtures with detailed instructions their further preparation.

What ingredients are required?

You can create PVA carpentry with your own hands, using components preserved in home bins, and the missing ones can be purchased at pharmacy kiosks.

As constituent substances you will need to collect:

• 8 gr. – glycerin
• 200 gr. – wheat flour
• 2 liters – water
• 40 gr. – ethyl alcohol
• 10 gr. – gelatin

Purchasing gelatin will not cause problems, it is not expensive and one pack is enough, the contents of which should be soaked overnight before work. The glue is not boiled over an open fire, but rather a steam bath is built.

All ingredients except alcohol and glycerin are placed in a basin and steamed, constantly stirring the mixture until it thickens. Then the remaining substances are added. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is obtained, without lumps. Once cooled, the mixture will be ready for use.

If a semi-finished product is purchased, it must first be crushed. Wrap the tile in an old towel and beat with a hammer until you get a powder. It is poured into a prepared container and filled with water. In this case, you don’t have to cook at all, just wait until the mixture thickens. You can turn it into a homogeneous substance using a special nozzle. If the mixture is too thick, it is diluted with liquid to the desired consistency. Many formulations are already sold in powder form, there is no need to heat them, you don’t have to wait long, either.

At the same time, there are semi-finished products for gluing:

• wallpaper
• tiles
• linoleum
• floor and ceiling skirting boards
• parquet

When purchasing a substance, you should pay attention to the color of the dry wood glue granules offered. The quality of the final composition depends on the transparency of the raw materials.

It is this adhesive that is famous high strength, even if the glued wooden parts are destroyed, the applied layer remains indestructible. Before you start making the mixture, you need to study the instructions, since one scheme requires cooking, while others just need to add liquid and wait until the granules swell.

In order to protect surfaces from mold, the following is added to the composition:

• antiseptic
• ammonia
• phenol or borax substance

Using glue is easy, you need:

• apply the composition with a convenient brush
• the direction of movement is chosen towards the wood fibers
• end parts are processed twice

Parts after lubrication:

• press on the place where you want to glue
• equal
• remove excess flow

How to make wood glue with your own hands - on video:

What to do if the craving for creativity takes you by surprise at night, and the glue inappropriately runs out? It's dark outside, the shops are closed, but continue favorite hobby absolutely necessary. Making your own glue in reality simplest procedure, which does not require special chemical knowledge and specific ingredients. You most likely have all the ingredients in your kitchen. Knowing how to make glue at home with your own hands, you won’t need to run to the store for a new tube. Here are a few recipes.

Making glue at home (three simple recipes)

Ingredients:

• Wheat flour;
• water.

Place some flour in a bowl and add a little water. Begin stirring the flour, adding water (as needed) until smooth and free of lumps. Place the bowl over low heat and, stirring constantly, bring the mixture to a boil. Leave to cool naturally at room temperature.

Flour paste is not stored. It deteriorates quickly and is suitable for quick use.

Wheat glue for paper

Ingredients:

• white wheat flour - 1.5 cups;
• boiled water - 2 cups;
• cold water - 1 glass;
• sugar - 0.5 cups;
• alum - 1 tablespoon.

Mix flour and sugar, adding slowly cold water. Beat the mixture until there are no lumps and the consistency of a paste forms. Place on the heat and simmer the paste until it becomes a little hard. Remove from heat and add alum. Let cool naturally at room temperature.

In a tightly sealed plastic container has a slightly longer shelf life than flour paste. The hardened mixture can be soaked by adding a little boiling water.

Milk soda

Ingredients:

• powdered milk- 2 tablespoons;
• hot water - a quarter cup;
• vinegar - 1 tablespoon;
• soda - half a teaspoon.

Mix the milk powder well with some hot water and add vinegar. The reaction with the vinegar in the hot water should cause the milk to separate into clumps of flakes and liquid whey. Continue stirring until the milk is completely separated.

Separate the resulting “yogurt” from the liquid whey by carefully decanting it. This is best done with a paper napkin.

Collect all the “yogurt” in a separate smaller container and whisk until smooth. Add a teaspoon of boiling water and a quarter teaspoon of soda. Foaming of the mass may occur ( chemical reaction soda with vinegar). Stir the mixture until smooth. Add water if the mixture is too thick, and if the mixture is clumpy, add a little more baking soda.

Doesn't last long. If the smell of spoiled milk appears, the mixture should be thrown away.

Types of glue

Surely, almost every one of us has used it, but rarely thought about its constituent ingredients and methods. industrial production. Glue is a substance mainly made from natural or synthetic substances.

Natural adhesives

Produced from plant (resin) or biological sources (bones, skin). Invented in ancient times, when smart people realized that collagen protein, which has sticky properties, could be extracted from the bones, skins, skin and connective tissues of animals through special processing. Today the majority adhesive compositions produced on the basis biological substances, and the process of obtaining cool mass differs little from prehistoric. Most often, the sticky mass is produced by dehydrating the hides. The skins are first soaked in water and then treated with lime. Lime is neutralized with a weak acid solution. Next, the skins are kept in water at 70 degrees, due to which a substance is released from the tissues, which is scraped off and used for its intended purpose.

The source of the sticky substance is also casein, milk, ambulin obtained from cow blood serum, fish heads, bones, skin, scales, air bladders of some fish, from which a white, odorless substance called “ichthyokol” is obtained.

Vegetable glue is obtained from starch, which is found in vegetables and grains, gum, agar and algin from algae, and gum arabic - the milky sap of some trees.

Synthetic adhesives

Cyanoacrylate is the main ingredient of synthetic glue, also known as "superglue", discovered by Harry Coover (1942) in the research laboratories of the Kodak optical fiber company. transparent plastic. In 1958, Cyanoacrylate was already sold in stores under the brand name “Superglue”.

Epoxy compounds are of industrial importance two-component adhesives: epoxy resin and various modifications of additives that improve elasticity and give the product certain physical and mechanical properties.

The most famous and often used adhesives in artistic creative practice are, of course, polyvinyl acetate (PVA) and carpentry. Slightly less used is the so-called “office glass” based on liquid glass.