How to make warm beds at the dacha. Pros and cons of using raised beds How to make raised beds at your dacha your own

Raised beds are the choice of many modern summer residents. Raised vegetable gardens, as this arrangement of summer cottage planting areas is also called, is used not only for growing vegetable crops, but also for organizing flower beds. Tall or mounded vegetable gardens have many advantages, but to arrange them at your dacha, you need to know some features that will help you get a wonderful harvest.

Benefits of raised beds

The main advantage of bulk beds is the ability to place a larger number of plants and vegetable crops in a small area. Thus, summer residents increase the harvest of strawberries, cucumbers, medicinal and fragrant herbs. But this is not the only attractive side. Tall vegetable gardens on the site have many other advantages:

  • bulk beds can be filled with purchased ones, ideal for a specific garden crops, soil;
  • the ability to regulate the thickness of the soil for the root system of a particular plant;
  • mounded gardens are easier to dig up and weed;
  • the arrangement of raised beds is not tied to the topography of the site - they can be laid out anywhere;
  • in raised gardens, seedlings can be planted earlier, as the soil warms up faster;
  • in bulk gardens, the soil remains loose longer, allowing the root system to “breathe” better;
  • raised beds are ideal for trailing plants that can simply hang over the edges of the mound to form fruiting tiers;
  • depending on the material, you can create not only practical and convenient raised beds, but also make them a design “feature” of the garden, arranging them in the form of a mosaic;
  • on high beds filled purchased soil, there are almost no weeds, and the soil is not infected with fungus and mold.

In just a few hours, you can create a beautiful landscape in your garden, which will not only please the eye with its neat appearance and clear lines, but will also produce an excellent harvest. And most importantly, raised beds are very practical for the northern regions, where even in the summer months there are frosts on the soil, which nullify all the work of gardeners.

Types of raised beds

Summer residents distinguish several types of tall vegetable gardens. They differ not only in the material from which they are made, but also in functionality. Some types of raised beds can be made without using building materials or tools, while others will require the use of construction skills.


Types of bulk beds:

  • With a triangular cross-section.
  • Trapezoidal raised beds.
  • Multi-tiered raised beds.
  • Decorative tall vegetable gardens.

Materials for equipping tall vegetable gardens

Modern building materials make it possible to create high beds in the country without much hassle. But keep in mind that slate, cinder concrete or wood treated with antiseptics are highly toxic and can be harmful. If you use these materials, it is best to wrap them in thick film before installing them in the garden bed.

Wood (boards, beams).


This is the most environmentally friendly material that is inexpensive and can be found in any country house. Boards, logs or beams can serve as sides for garden beds. The main disadvantage of a wooden perimeter is that it quickly rots, dries out and cracks. If you choose this option, then do not rush to treat the boards or logs with an antiseptic, but rather wrap them with garden film.

Branches.

Many summer residents use tree branches to create beautiful, decorative raised beds in their dachas. Such designs look very effective, but the sides woven from branches do not hold the soil well and are short-lived.

Stone.

Stone structures look impressive on any summer cottage. In addition, this is a very durable material that allows you to build tall vegetable gardens of any shape - round, square, oval, triangular. The main difficulty in creating tall gardens made of stone is the high cost of the material. But, if there are natural deposits of stones nearby, then feel free to take them to the site and build a garden bed.

Brick.

Tall brick gardens are great for creating country landscape With classic style. Such beds go well with a brick house and a fence. This type of material will require financial costs, and in order to create beautiful, original masonry, you need to have certain construction skills.

Plastic.

You can often see tall vegetable gardens made from large and medium-sized plastic containers, as well as plastic panels, in the gardens of summer residents different colors and thickness. This is a very easy to use and durable material. But when buying a container or sheet of plastic, ask if it has a non-toxic label or a corresponding mark in the quality certificate. You can often find inexpensive plastic products in stores that cannot be used near food.

Width, height and length of bulk vegetable gardens: important parameters when planning

Height.

At what height to place raised beds in a dacha, each gardener decides depending on his own preferences, the volume of the plant root system, and the characteristics of the underlying soil.

  • minimum bed height - 15 cm;
  • when isolated from the main soil, increase the height to 30-40 cm;
  • warm raised vegetable gardens should be at least 50 cm high, since compost should be laid at the bottom in a layer of up to 20 cm;
  • narrow beds can be raised to a height of half a person’s height; such structures allow you to care for plants and harvest crops without bending over.

Length.

This parameter is not limited by anything other than the boundaries of the site. But if the tall garden is too long, additionally strengthen its sides so that soil load didn't break them.

Width.

When arranging tall vegetable gardens on the site, remember, the main thing is that they should be convenient for any agricultural work. You should not have any difficulties watering, fertilizing, weeding or harvesting. Therefore, the ideal width of the bed should be such that you can easily reach its middle, and if the bed is attached to a higher structure, then it should be comfortable to work while standing on one side. The optimal width is 90-120 cm.

You can grow absolutely any type of plant in raised beds. But the peculiarities of tall gardens are such that it is better to refrain from placing plants with tall stems, since it will be inconvenient to collect fruits from them. As a rule, cucumbers, tomatoes, root vegetables, strawberries, peppers, all types of fragrant greens, and flowers are planted in raised beds.

High raised beds in the form of a trapezoid

The principle of creating high bulk beds in the form of a trapezoid, very similar to the one described above. To prevent it from collapsing, the edges of the bed are sometimes covered with boards, slate fragments or plastic, but experienced summer residents prefer not to do this. Uncovered soil surfaces are better warmed up by the rays of the sun, and the roots of vegetable crops in such a bed “breathe.” For most garden plants, the optimal width of the planting surface is 70 cm. For root crops, the height of the garden should be at least 50 cm; for other plants, 20 to 30 cm is sufficient.

Multi-tiered raised beds and their advantages

Such landing surfaces are formed from ridges different heights. Multi-tiered high beds and vegetable gardens significantly save dacha territory and allow you to get bigger harvest. Such beds are equipped with metal or wooden structures in the form of boxes or boxes with a bottom into which soil is poured.

The peculiarity of such ridges is that when planting, one should take into account the plants’ preferences in the amount of sunlight. More light-loving plants are planted in the upper tiers, and those that easily tolerate shadow are planted in the lower ones.

Proper arrangement of multi-tiered high vegetable gardens makes it possible to obtain a variety of vegetables, berries and flowers even in a small area. A quality material, chosen for the construction of the sides will last several years.

How to build a raised bed out of wood. Step-by-step instruction

If you seriously decide to create decorative style on your personal plot using raised beds, then you need to approach the work with full responsibility. First of all, you need to plan the location. Choose well-lit areas where plants will feel comfortable.

The easiest way to build tall vegetable gardens is from wood. Thick boards or timber will do. In this case, experienced gardeners prefer to make a small blind area along the outer perimeter of the garden bed. The contour along the edge of the board edge will not only give a neat look to the garden bed, but will also allow you to trim the lawn carefully and without hassle using a lawn mower or garden trimmer.

To build a tall vegetable garden you will need the following tools:

  • roulette;
  • level;
  • screwdriver;
  • wood screws;
  • brush;
  • shovel;
  • Master OK.

Prepare in advance boards cut to the size of the beds, sand-cement mixture for mortar, drainage filler, mulch and soil, and also use our detailed instructions, which will tell you how to build a high garden bed in your country house.

First level.

Remove the layer of soil around the perimeter of the future bed and install the boards so that they stand level - check the level. To level the height of the edges, you can remove the soil under the boards or place planks under them. Check the length of the diagonal dimensions with a tape measure, it should be the same. If the height of the boards is the same and the diametrical dimensions are the same, secure the corners with long self-tapping screws.

Height building.

Added to the desired height required quantity rows of boards. In this case, they need to be laid edgewise on the previous row so that the corner joints overlap. The connection points are also fastened with self-tapping screws.

Filling the bed with natural material.

To minimize the germination of weeds, as well as to protect the soil from pests, mold and mildew, experienced gardeners use geotextiles. It is spread out at the bottom of the structure. If you don't have this material, lay out a plain newspaper at the bottom.

The next step is filling drainage. In the form of drainage, you can use any absorbent, pebbles or crushed stone, as well as fragments of brick, stone or ceramics. Soil is poured over the drainage composition. At this stage, you can already plant the prepared seedlings. The entire surface of the bed and the spaces between the plants are covered with mulch, which will keep the soil moist and protect the roots of the plants from possible frosts.

We make a blind area around the bed.

First you need to make markings around the structure. If you are using brick, then drive in the posts at a distance of one brick width from the board sides and pull the string tight. Now you need to remove the turf around the raised bed. The depth of the trench should be several centimeters greater than the height of the brick.

Fill in cement mortar into the recess around the wooden sides and lay the bricks by tapping them with a rubber mallet. Also lay the mortar in the spaces between the bricks and distribute it evenly, and remove the excess with a trowel or hard brush.

Strawberries on high beds

Tall vegetable gardens on the site are especially loved by connoisseurs garden strawberries V cold regions of the country. But for summer residents from the southern regions, this method of growing sweet berries is not suitable, since, even despite abundant mulching, moisture quickly drains from high beds and the root system does not have enough nutrition.

A high bed for strawberries is built at a height of at least 15 cm. And strawberry bushes are planted at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Sprinkle the entire surface of the soil with regular baking soda, which will help protect the berries from another of its connoisseurs - ants. The soil is covered with agrospan or mulched abundantly. If you use agrospan, then do not forget to secure it by sprinkling soil around the edges, or sticking something like pins into the ground.

High beds help protect strawberries from frost, unnecessary weeds, and pests. This is an excellent option for those who want to grow aromatic berries in not entirely suitable climatic conditions.

Growing carrots in high beds. Video

Vegetable gardening in Russia is famous for the fact that people are constantly adopting various low-cost ways to increase productivity. The so-called warm beds have earned high popularity. Their device is created in such a way that early heating of the soil occurs with natural (from rotting organic matter) or artificial (using energy) heat.

To put it simply, a warm bed is a kind of compost pit that has drainage at the bottom and planting soil at the top. There are three options for compost beds according to their placement relative to ground level:

  • raised above the surface;
  • recessed;
  • mixed design (the base is at depth, the top is located above ground level.

In any case, filling the bed will look like a layer cake, in which each layer represents some kind of organic material.

Such beds are formed either in early spring or late autumn. Going into winter with pre-prepared beds is very rational, because before freezing in the depths of the structure, the process of decomposition of organic matter will already begin, and in the spring it will continue with renewed vigor.

Contents of organic warm beds

Approximate contents of raised beds from bottom to top:

  • protection from rodents - mice and moles (use metal or plastic mesh);

  • drainage layer (plant branches, large twigs, logs, remains of old stumps and other bulky material);
  • insulating fabric (geotextile) or a layer of old newspapers and cardboard on top of it;

IMPORTANT. The insulating layer protects the drainage layer from being flooded with water and also prevents the germination of weeds.

  • sawdust, bark, chopped branches;
  • unrotted organic matter - old foliage and various plant remains;
  • rotted compost;
  • garden soil or specially brought fertile soil.

IMPORTANT. The thickness of the top layer must be such that the roots have enough space and do not grow into the layer of unrotted organic matter. Study in advance the specifics of the plants that you plan to plant in this bed.

Depending on the design, some layers can be eliminated. For example:

  • if the bed lies on the ground without deepening, then a drainage layer of bulk material is not needed. There is no need for cardboard either - just cover the bottom of the bed with a protective coating against rodents, and then with waterproof technical fabric, so that irrigation water does not quickly go into the soil;

  • if the bed is of a mixed type (buried with an elevation), make sure that the ground level is somewhere between a layer of cardboard and unrotted organic matter.

There are no strict rules. The main task of a novice designer of warm beds is to understand the whole operating principle:

  • sequence of layers;
  • organization of the rotting process;
  • protection from rodents;
  • thickness of each layer of filler.

Most questions revolve around how thick each layer should be. Experienced gardeners recommend paying attention to key points:

  • top fertile soil with compost 15-25 cm (depending on the length of the roots going deep);
  • unrotted organic matter (old leaves, etc.) in a layer about 12-15 cm thick;
  • a layer of old branches, sawdust - about 10-13 cm;
  • the lower drainage layer is from 5 to 10 cm.

Varieties

There are different versions of beds that provide natural warmth from the inside. The choice of design depends on how much time and effort you are willing to spend on the result. Remember that any garden design is considered simultaneously as:

  • the opportunity to increase yields;
  • a means of facilitating further gardening work and increasing convenience;
  • aesthetic organization of plantations and plantings on the site.

Technologically the simplest option. What are the advantages of a warm bed of this type:

  • they are much easier to care for;
  • there is no need for hard work digging the earth to depth;

IMPORTANT. Ideal for conditions where the soil is excessively swampy (an optimal environment is created inside the contour of a warm bed by selecting fillers, and the bottom is covered with insulating material).

  • easy to create clear geometric shapes (relevant for lovers of sophisticated landscape design);

  • it is much easier to protect plant roots from mice and moles.

In-ground beds

Most difficult option in terms of labor costs. However, the result is more solid:

  • below ground level, organic matter does not freeze as much as in raised beds, so the process of heat release begins much earlier in the spring;
  • Once you dig a trench and fill it with organic materials, you don’t have to worry about repeated work for several years (shelf life is about 3-4 years without the need to change the internal contents);
  • saving effort and time on the side framing of beds, because you can do without it (if the surface of the bed is level with the level of the surrounding ground).

Mixed type

This option is considered optimal:

  • the buried part plays a long-term role (there is no need to dig it up every spring);
  • the elevation of the upper fertile part allows you to cultivate the bed with less effort;

IMPORTANT. Working in a sitting position is important for older people. They often suffer from atherosclerosis and other vascular diseases, in which a head-down position is contraindicated.

  • the recommended height of the part protruding above the surface is approximately 55-70 cm;

  • the rising part will have to be decorated with side walls, that is, the result will be an aesthetically attractive look - the garden or vegetable garden will look more stylish, pleasing to the eye with landscape design.

Materials

Very important aspect- what to make the contour of the bed from. Although there is a wide variety of materials on the market, they have different properties:

  • aesthetic appearance;
  • financial high/low cost;
  • fragility/durability;
  • response to temperature;
  • safety from an environmental point of view.

IMPORTANT. Never use glass. There is a high risk of combat, and it is simply unrealistic to remove small fragments from the soil.

The final decision is always yours, and let it be balanced. Short review materials claiming to be used:


DIY garden bed

In this article we will look at a mixed type design:

  • buried by the base;
  • having an above-ground part;
  • wooden side frame.

This instruction will help you better understand general scheme and details of working with various materials.

Preparing for work

Tools and material:

  • carpentry (saw, drill, level, screwdriver, measuring tape, corner);
  • gardening (shovel, rake, pitchfork, garden cart for transporting compost and other filler materials, earth drill);
  • edged board 2-2.5 cm thick, 17-20 cm wide;
  • 4x4 cm block for stakes;
  • metal or plastic mesh against rodents.

Bed dimensions:

  • The width is important so that it is convenient to work with the bed when growing plants. It is optimal if the bed is no wider than 1.0-1.3 m. In narrow areas of the site (for example, near a fence), you can make beds 70 cm wide. Even with one-way access, the plantings will receive the necessary care and attention from the gardener.
  • the length is arbitrary - as far as the configuration of your garden plot allows.

  • as mentioned above, the ground part of the bed is recommended to be 50-75 cm high;
  • however this recommendation is not mandatory. Moreover, taking into account the fact that the thickness inner layers varies. Therefore, the bed can also be placed inside a lower contour (20-35 cm).

IMPORTANT. Plan in advance, this will make it easier for you to implement your plans without wasting time on alterations and improvements.

Frame making

Please note that the sides of the bed will have to be made of double boards, that is, place one board vertically above the other so that the height of the walls is sufficient. Thus, you will have the following actions:

  • measure the required length, cut boards (4 side boards, 4 end boards);

  • prepare stakes from a 4x4 cm bar, 75-80 cm long;

IMPORTANT. How many stakes will it take? With a bed length of 2-2.5 meters, 6 pieces are enough. With a bed length of 3.5-4 meters, 8 pieces are enough.

  • make two-level sides by joining two boards together (use scraps of boards, loosened into planks with a hatchet);

  • keep in mind that the screws should not extend beyond the drilled wood (when purchasing screws, remember that the thickness of the board is 2.5 cm, and it needs to be multiplied by two, since the connecting strips will be the same thickness).

This completes the preparation. The frame will need to be installed directly into the trench - fastening at the corners of the structure will also be done there. A measuring angle and level will help you maintain accuracy.

Trench and its filling

Step by step steps:

  • mark the bed or beds (marking with pegs and a stretched cord will allow you to dig a trench of an even geometric shape);

  • It is advisable to dig a trench so that its depth is about 40-45 cm;

  • lay down a rodent mesh (it is sold in hardware stores, ask for reinforcing mesh or chain-link);
  • create a drainage layer (see details above) - coarse, long-rotted organic matter;
  • cover with old newspapers, cardboard;

  • install side walls;
  • drill holes for support stakes;

  • At the corners of the structure, connect the boards and stakes with self-tapping screws;
  • use a corner and a level to ensure that the structure “sits” in the ground exactly both horizontally and perpendicular to the joining corners;
  • continue to fill the raised part of the bed;
  • add dry grass, leaves and other unrotted organic matter;

  • further - humus, manure or compost;
  • the final layer is high-quality garden soil.

IMPORTANT. In fertile areas, before starting trench work, carefully remove the top layer of soil and set it aside. This is the turf you use for planting.

After all the steps, do not forget to water the bed to create a moist environment. In such conditions, the process of rotting inside will begin. Do not try to moisten each layer with water as you fill the trench. There is no need to rush, let everything go at a moderate speed. There is still time before planting, and the contents of the bed should rot and be loose, and not rot in a viscous slurry.

Video - Do-it-yourself warm beds

Warm beds with artificial heating

The concept is that:

  • water pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are laid on the drainage layer;
  • the pipe structure is connected to the electrical cable;
  • heating is controlled by the user (turning on and off the heat supply as needed, depending on the ground temperature).

IMPORTANT. Artificial heating is optimal for covered (tent) beds and greenhouses - the heat generated by the pipes is retained inside the system and is not sprayed in the open air.

The order and list of fillers may vary. In any case, the most important layers should remain:

  • bottom drainage (it is laid directly on natural soil);
  • additional insulation (prevents the “layer cake” from cooling from below, from the ground);
  • sand (occupies the location of the heating pipes) - plays the role of fine-grained drainage, helps retain heat, and facilitates the passage of irrigation water downwards).

Only after all these components is the fertile layer of soil placed at the top.

  • at dachas it is advisable to use an electric cable (after all, dacha heating is usually temporary and low-power);
  • in permanent private houses, you can connect directly to the heating (not forgetting to make a shut-off valve in case the house is heated, but the garden bed does not need to be heated at this time).

What type of heating is allowed? It can be of any type:

  • gas;
  • electrical;
  • steam;
  • water;
  • stove

Operating procedure

It's actually quite simple:

  • prepare layers (large drainage, synthetic insulation, sand);
  • lay water pipes. The scheme is a closed circuit (to ensure the circulation of warm water in a circle);

  • add a little more sand on top;

  • the final layer is directly fertile soil. Use good quality garden soil, as well as additional black soil. Keep in mind that the soil should nourish the plants well when heated;

  • Connect the greenhouse piping to the heating source.

If you lack experience working with electricity, invite a more knowledgeable person to help. If electric installation work you understand, the whole process will be elementary for you, and the design will be durable, effective and reliable.

This article describes all the intricacies of the process during which raised garden beds are created with your own hands: photos and detailed descriptions of the technology, types of structures, their purpose and features, advantages and disadvantages. Specificity of vertical products intended for growing strawberries, cucumbers and other crops, recommendations for their production.

Do-it-yourself raised beds at the dacha: photoand design features

The construction of raised beds opens up new opportunities for growing crops in the garden. This approach to organizing plantings allows you to create on the site interesting design, effectively grow berries, fruits and vegetables. It becomes possible to get a wonderful harvest from a plot whose soil is not particularly fertile.

Warming up of tall structures occurs much faster than that of ordinary beds. The process of caring for plants is simplified because a person does not have to bend too low.

Note! Used as filler for raised beds organic matter. Due to the fact that plant roots are located in a nutrient medium, crops grow faster and produce a rich harvest.

Features of raised beds: pros and cons of designs

The construction of such structures is accompanied by minimal costs, therefore, summer residents prefer to make high beds for strawberries and vegetables.

Advantages of raised structures:

  • the availability of a crop does not depend on the quality and composition of the soil on the site. Thanks to this, summer residents and gardeners can grow plants in areas with rocky surfaces or heavy clay soil;
  • beds simplify the process of cultivating the land and do not require extensive care. You only need to dig the ground twice. The first time is in the spring, when the plant is planted, the second time the procedure is done in the fall after harvesting;
  • for processing it is not necessary to dig the soil deeply; it is enough to stir the soil with a garden fork;

  • The production of high beds is as simple as possible, as is the procedure for dismantling them. The placement of structures can be easily changed if you want to create new design Location on;
  • the space inside the product is limited, so removing weeds is not difficult;
  • accelerated ripening of vegetables in high beds is facilitated by a good drainage system, which is organized inside the structure;
  • the soil in high beds is protected from freezing, which often happens in the spring when frost returns. During early autumn frosts, it is enough just to cover the plantings with tarpaulin or polyethylene so that they do not die;
  • the construction of high beds for strawberries allows you to save the berries from being washed away by rainstorms, which often destroy the crop.

The designs have few disadvantages. They consist in the need for enhanced mineral fertilizing And frequent watering. You will also need to keep an eye on the mole cricket. This pest loves to live in high beds.

How to make a raised garden bed with your own hands: common technologies

Most in demand among owners of summer cottages the following types beds:

  • triangular shaped mounded gardens;
  • multi-tiered structures;
  • trapezoidal bulk beds;
  • decorative vegetable gardens.

Note! Setting up raised beds does not require large expenditures. Many summer residents use improvised materials for these purposes. In most cases, to create raised beds, it is enough to buy bricks, as well as a mixture that improves soil quality and drainage.

To build a high, triangular-shaped mound garden, you only need a shovel. The dimensional parameters of the bed are selected taking into account what plants will be grown. The size of the root system of crops is taken into account. The maximum permissible height of a bulk garden is 0.3 m, the width is about 0.7 m. In the process of filling the bed with soil, there is no need to compact the soil.

A similar scheme is used to create a trapezoidal bed. The upper part of the bulk garden should not exceed 0.3 m in width. You can use boards to cover the upper slopes. It is also possible to use mulch, which will have a positive effect on the condition of the soil.

To make a multi-tiered strawberry bed with your own hands, a profile pipe or fittings are suitable. Metal structural elements are fastened by welding or bolting. Ready frame base containers or boxes filled with soil are put on.

Making raised beds: photo and choice of material

Fences on high beds are needed to ensure that the soil with plants is inside the structure. Most often, beams or boards are used for construction. Do-it-yourself technologies for making high beds from slate are also popular.

Wood is considered traditional material, allowing you to create practical and reliable designs for high beds. Slate is also popular, but less environmentally friendly. In addition, he has one significant drawback– fragile structure. During the construction of a vegetable garden, this material can be damaged if the rules for handling it are neglected.

The most durable and strong beds are made from brick or stone. Large elements are connected using concrete mortar. Concrete itself is often used, when working with which you should carefully consider the shape, dimensional parameters and location of the garden, since the bed in this case will be stationary and it will not be possible to move it over time. When making structures from concrete, stone or brick, it is important not to overdo it with the thickness and width of the frame. In massive products, the earth will not be able to warm up quickly.

Summer residents also use other budget materials:

  • empty bottles;
  • old plastic boxes;
  • ready-made structures in the form of plastic fencing.

Note! Construction of high beds from plastic panels is the most budget method get a vegetable garden. You can even find plastic slate in the assortment of individual stores.

Features of raised beds by Igor Lyadov: design of beds, photos and parameters

Igor Lyadov’s beds are based on technology invented at the end of the twentieth century by Jacob Mittlider. The American worked on creating optimal structures for growing strawberries. These products are distinguished from ordinary box beds by their reduced width - only 45 cm. Any material can be used to make the sides, but boards are most often used.

Fertile soil and a layer of sawdust are used as filler. Mittlider set aside a width of 0.9 m for the paths between the structures. To prevent the growth of weeds in this area, the vegetable grower spread agrofibre.

Unlike his American colleague, Igor Lyadov suggests using organic matter rather than mineral supplements. He became the author of several recipes, which include such traditional fertilizers as bird droppings and manure, as well as herbs. The design of the beds looks somewhat different in the photo. Lyadov's high beds are 0.6-1 m wide.

Between the structures there are passages 0.6-0.8 m wide. This area can be covered with roofing felt, sand, tiles or sawdust to make it easier to move along the plantings and not think about weeds. The space between the paths between the beds is often sown with lawn grass. But in this case, you will have to periodically mow the vegetation so that the passages look neat and do not go beyond their boundaries.

Note! Igor Lyadov strictly indicated the placement of the beds. Plantings should be placed from north to south. This is the only way the plants will be provided with the necessary level of sunlight.

Do-it-yourself raised bed: how to make itwooden structure

The technology provides for the construction of a bed, the width of which is 180 cm, length - 3 m, height - 40 cm. However, the dimensional parameters of the structure can be changed taking into account the area of ​​the summer cottage. At the first stage of construction, the optimal location for placing the vegetable garden is selected. It is better if the selected area is illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours throughout the day. Even a place unsuitable for growing crops, such as a vacant lot, is suitable for this purpose.

Related article:

After this, the design of the beds at the dacha is developed, photo interesting options placements can be found on the Internet or in gardening magazines. Before construction begins, the site is cleared of debris, stones and rhizomes of perennial weeds. Annual weeds do not need to be removed, since the need for this procedure disappears during the initial digging of the territory.

First, the fences are prepared. To do this, you will need to cut the material so that you get 4 boards 1.8 m long and 4 boards 3 m long. In addition, wooden blocks should be prepared, each 40 cm high. A cut should be made at the ends of the boards intended for assembling the frame at an angle of 45°.

Before you begin assembling the frame, you should treat the wooden elements with a special impregnation or antiseptic to stop the rotting process and prevent rapid deterioration of the material, which can be caused by exposure to moisture. WITH outside the boards can be painted or coated with a varnish. For decorative purposes, patterns can be applied to the surface. After waiting for it to dry completely, you can begin assembling the box. If the bed design provides two levels, each of the tiers is fastened with beams.

Helpful advice! To protect the plantings from moles and rodents, it is recommended to nail a net at the bottom.

How to fill a raised bed made of boards with your own hands

Filling the high bed is carried out in the following order:

  • The drainage system is laid as the first layer; to organize it, tree bark is used, which needs to be crushed, fallen leaves, small twigs and wood shavings;
  • the second layer is formed from fertilizers; manure is well suited for organizing this layer; it is better if it is rotted;
  • a water-permeable material is used as the third layer; it is performed in the same way as the first layer;
  • the basis for the fourth layer is organic matter; this layer can be supplemented with complex mineral fertilizer;
  • the fifth layer is fertile soil, the composition of the soil depends on the plants that will be grown in the garden bed, minimum thickness fertile layer – 10 cm.

After the bed is filled, it should be watered generously and allowed to sit for 2-3 days so that all the layers can settle. It is not recommended to immediately start sowing or planting seedlings. It is better to keep the bed for some time so that it has time to warm up well. To do this, you need to cover the structure with black material. Polyethylene will do.

Helpful advice! If the construction of the beds is carried out in late summer or autumn, the structure should be left covered until spring.

Making vertical beds with your own hands: photos and technologies

Vertical beds are used for growing spices and berries. The advantages of such structures are associated with a decorative appearance, saving space and protecting crops from birds and various pests.

The construction of vertical beds will be an excellent solution for planting crops that require a lot of space on the site. These structures are ideal for growing herbs, strawberries, flowers, strawberries. Moreover, owners of summer cottages can not only build them themselves, but also buy ready-made vertical beds in one of the specialized stores.

Why is it profitable to create or buy a vertical bed for strawberries?

There are many design options for vertical beds, but their main advantage is their compact size. Moreover, this advantage of the products will be beneficial not only to owners of small summer cottages, but also to people who want to grow herbs or berries on their balcony. A lightweight bed made from plastic bottles is best suited for these purposes.

Vertically installed beds do not require complex maintenance. The plantings are at a sufficient height to allow weeding or harvesting to be carried out in comfortable conditions. To do this, you do not need to bend low and endure back pain. In this case, the plants and their roots are raised high above the ground, out of reach of rodents and small pests. Pyramid or cylinder-shaped beds make it difficult for birds to land comfortably to eat the berries.

Prices for ready-made structures:

product nameprice, rub.
Agrotextile bed150
Plastic mesh bed490
Pipe with holes1500
Pipe with holes3200
Vertical ladder4700

Making a pyramid bed for strawberries with your own hands: dimensions and technology

For work you will need the following tools and materials:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • edged board size 40×5×20 cm (11 pcs.);

  • screwdriver and set of screws;
  • pencil and tape measure;
  • seedlings and soil.

To create the base, 4 support boards are used. To make them, you can cut a board 2 m long. It is recommended to make cuts at an acute angle so that it is convenient to connect the pieces later.

Helpful advice! To increase the rigidity of the structure, an additional pillar should be placed in the central part of the pyramidal bed to act as a support.

After this, a pair of boards 2 m long, with an angular cut at the edges, are laid on a horizontal plane and connected to each other. A rail is mounted into the base to organize the future bed and is fixed on both sides. The dimensions of this element are 5x40x5 cm. The resulting side of the pyramid should be installed vertically and the second and third sides should be secured to it. They are made in a similar way.

When the frame part of the pyramid is ready, use a tape measure to measure the length of the slats intended for making beds. They should be placed in increments of 25-30 cm. To secure the slats, you will need to cut the ends at an angle of 30° to make the shelf raised. Upon completion of assembly, the structure is filled with soil, which should be compacted. The products can also be successfully used for growing vegetables and herbs.

Technology for making vertical beds for strawberries from plastic pipes

This design option is great not only for growing strawberries, but also for greens.

List necessary tools and materials:

  • plastic pipes of the required length with a large diameter;
  • steel cable (can be replaced with thick fishing line);
  • construction knife for cutting pipes.

The large diameter of the pipes is necessary so that the pipe cut in half can accommodate the amount of soil required for growing plants. The product is cut lengthwise. To fix the beds in a vertical position, holes should be made on both sides of each half. A steel cable or thick fishing line is passed through them. The halves are placed one above the other according to the principle of a ladder. The number of such half-levels can be unlimited.

Note! Since the structure can swing when suspended, it is recommended to install the bed in places protected from the wind.

Do-it-yourself construction of vertical beds from construction mesh

Small vegetable gardens created on the basis of a building grid are suitable for growing strawberries, flowers, herbs or potatoes. To work you will need:

  • construction metal mesh;
  • the soil;
  • straw;
  • tool for cutting metal wire.

To create a bed, you will need to bend a rectangular piece of mesh into the shape of a pipe, the diameter of which is 0.9 m. Using wire or other devices, the edges of the section must be fastened in this position. Straw is placed on the sides inside the structure. Thanks to this, the soil will not spill out. The free space is filled.

If you intend to grow potatoes, the first level of plants should be located at a height of 50 cm from the ground. Approximately 10 cm should be left between crops. After this, the first layer is shed, 50 cm of soil is laid again and the plants are planted. A tower bed can have any height. To give a vertical bed a more attractive appearance, you can use black film instead of straw.

Technologies for making vertical beds for strawberries with your own hands from pots

Flower pots can be used successfully to grow strawberries. Such designs have a decorative appearance. Clay or plastic products are suitable for work. The result is a multi-level design. The number of such levels is limited only by personal wishes. Pots are selected so that each subsequent one has a smaller diameter than the previous one. It is desirable that the difference in size between each pair of pots be approximately the same.

The largest pot is placed in the chosen location and filled with soil. After this, a smaller pot is placed in it, etc. When the structure is ready, plants are planted in the soil and watered.

The next option is based on pots of the same diameter. Only one of them should be large. It will be installed at the very base of the structure. A metal rod or wooden stick should be placed inside a large pot.

Note! The size of the rod must be selected so that its diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole located at the base of the pot.

The pot is filled with soil. The remaining products are strung one by one onto a rod through a hole at the bottom. The result is a multi-tiered structure with pots that seem to balance on top of each other. They are filled with soil, where plants are then planted.

If there is a tall stump or pole on the site, the pots can be fixed to it. Under no circumstances should this be done on a living tree. Products are fixed around the circumference in any order. The spiral looks beautiful from the outside. You can also use the technique of placing pots in a checkerboard pattern. The only drawback of this garden bed is the inconvenient watering system.

Manufacturing technology and photos of vertical beds for strawberries made from tires with your own hands

A tower made from car tires is made in exactly the same way as a structure made from flower pots. Tires of different diameters are selected for construction. This material has a significant drawback. Old car tires are not environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is recommended to create such beds for one-time use, and after a year to build new ones from other tires.

Before starting work, car tires need to be prepared:

  • thoroughly clean them of dirt and stones;
  • dry;
  • paint if necessary.

After this, the largest tire should be laid on one side. On the other hand, the side part with the hole for the disk is cut off. The finished element is filled with soil and planted with plants. You should do the same with other tires and install them one on top of the other so that the size of each next one is smaller than the size of the previous one.

Helpful advice! Car tires can be beautifully decorated, as is usually done with flower beds made from this material. For these purposes, you can use bright colors, patterns, or make decorative cuts.

Making your own raised beds for strawberries from scrap materials

Plants will look great in a bed made from a bag. This design can be conveniently placed on a fence, wall of a gazebo, house, barn or any other permanent building. To work, you will need a bag made of plastic or natural fabric. Burlap is much better in terms of performance. It is environmentally friendly and, unlike plastic, is reusable. The fact is that artificial materials undergo rapid destruction under the influence of the sun.

On the other hand, burlap has a good throughput, providing air access to the plants. To prevent the bottom and sides of the bag from breaking through over time under the influence of gravity, it is recommended to stitch them several times. A loop is made at the top of the product for hanging. On one side of the bag there are holes for planting plants. After this, the bed can be filled with soil and planted.

Multi-tier structures can be made from wooden or plastic boxes of different sizes. They are stacked one on top of the other with a gradual decrease in dimensional parameters. This ladder of boxes can be painted in a bright color and laid around a tree or pole.

Helpful advice! To create a garden bed you can use old chest of drawers, pushing his boxes forward and filling them with soil. Other unnecessary furniture will also be suitable for these purposes.

Recommendations for creating vertical beds for strawberries

Before you start making a vegetable garden, it would be useful to take into account some tips on optimal construction designs:

  • if the bed is large, assembly must be carried out directly at the site of its installation, otherwise problems with transportation may arise, during which the product can be damaged;

  • a decorative garden with berries should be placed strictly in the sun. If the vertical bed will be used for growing herbs, then its structure can be located not far from the kitchen;
  • The soil for filling the beds should be prepared in advance. For berries, sandy loam soil mixed with peat, fertilizer and hydrogel is suitable. Quail compost is optimal as a feed;
  • You need to think in advance about a system that will protect the beds from frost in the winter. Will the structure be covered or brought indoors;
  • It is recommended to locate the garden closer to the water source to make it more convenient to regularly water the plants.

Note! The construction of vertical beds for cucumbers is also welcomed by many summer residents. Most of designs are made by analogy with products for strawberries. Since cucumbers belong to the category of climbing crops, the bed should be supplemented with supports to which the plants will cling.

Making vertical beds for cucumbers with your own hands: photos of interesting designs

A vertical bed for cucumbers can be presented various options designs. Most often, bags or products made of plastic are used to grow these crops. The surface for fixing the beds can be the walls of buildings, nets or shields, as well as all kinds of partitions. You can create a vertical bed for cucumbers with your own hands inside plastic pipe. This product is closed on one side and hung vertically on the crossbars.

A net made of plastic is considered the simplest option for organizing a decorative garden for cucumbers. The product is positioned vertically and the plants rise up the grid as they grow. This type of garden bed can be purchased ready-made or you can make it yourself. To do this, you will need a thick fishing line and straight tree branches that will serve as supports. They are placed in a circle with equal spacing and at the top they are connected at one point so that a peculiar resemblance to a hut is obtained.

Using thick fishing line, you need to walk around the circle, forming a vertical base to secure the plants as they grow. If it is intended to build a bed in the form of a net for cucumbers, it is strictly forbidden to use hardware. Such structures will overheat on hot summer days and injure the plants, leaving burns on them. A safe option for growing cucumbers are bags or canvas bags.

For construction vertical structures it is allowed to use unusual materials, for example, pallets, old furniture, empty stumps, etc. An unusual approach to decor will allow you to create a garden on the territory, but a beautiful one decorative composition, which will optimally fit into the space of the summer cottage.

Many summer residents suffer because the groundwater in the area is too high. Excessive soil moisture is not suitable for all plants; many develop poorly or even die. You can solve the problem by making high beds. With this arrangement of plantings, it is possible to control the degree of humidity. And a pleasant bonus to such a decision will be an earlier ripening period and a much larger harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition to solving problems with waterlogging, high beds in the garden allow you to sow or plant plants 2-3 weeks earlier: raised above the ground, they warm up more actively due to the fact that the sun warms the walls. This is further facilitated by the decomposition processes occurring in plant waste, which constitute significant part backfill. That is why such beds are also called warm. If you place arcs on such a bed and cover them with spunbond or other similar material, then the harvest can be harvested even earlier.

The device is more problematic in regions with hot climates. The task in this case is not to better heat the earth, but to keep it from overheating. But this can also be solved: use materials with poor thermal conductivity, for example, wood, to fence high beds. For a better effect, you can make double walls, between which you can fill, for example, sawdust, lay polystyrene foam, or you can leave air gapbetter thermal insulation. In hot climates, it is better to paint the outer wall with white paint or whitewash it. It is known that light-colored surfaces heat up less. In this case, it will be possible to keep the root system from overheating: in the south the earth sometimes gets very hot and the higher the plant is, the cooler it will be. You can also stretch the same covering material over the beds. It not only retains heat, but also protects against overheating.

Raised beds can become good solution and on infertile lands. It is more convenient to lay out the imported soil in beds rather than distribute it over the entire site. The compost layer, which is located under the soil layer, contributes to maintaining fertility.

The problem of arid regions is also being solved. In this case, the inside of the fence for a high bed is coated with bitumen mastic or covered with film, and a roll of waterproofing material is placed on the bottom (on the mesh) (roofing felt will quickly rot, so it’s better to use one of the modern types of waterproofing). It will not be possible to achieve complete waterproofing, but it will be possible to retain moisture inside in sufficient quantities - yes.

Carrots - one to one. The best one is in a high bed, although the same variety was planted in a regular bed

As you can see, with a balanced approach, almost any problem can be solved. Raised beds have few disadvantages, but they are not without them:

  • In most cases, you have to make a fence, and this costs money.
  • The complexity of the process. Again, it takes time to make fences, and there is also a fair amount of earth and plant debris to move around, which is hard work.
  • Mole crickets and other similar animals thrive in rotting leaves, branches, and bark. We have to fight them.
  • Fertility has to be maintained by updating or completely replacing the “filling”.

That's all the shortcomings. If you decide to arrange raised beds, be prepared for a considerable amount of work. But the harvest will be many times greater. You can make one or two beds for testing. And then decide whether you need them or not.

Dimensions

On one site there are very high beds and not very...

So, the dimensions of the raised beds are:

  • Height - from 20 cm to 50-60 cm. Look here what a difficult task it turns out to be. The higher the bed is raised, the easier it is to process - less bending. But more land and all the other “fillings” will be required. One more point: if a small bed may be covered with snow and will be covered from severe frosts, then a tall one will freeze through: the sides will also be open. For those beds where annuals are sown, this does not play any role, but for perennial strawberries, let’s say, this is a problem. Therefore, the height is chosen based on these considerations. According to the experience of many summer residents, the optimal height for strawberries is 20 cm. Then you can hope that it will not freeze.
  • Width - from 60 cm to 1.2 m. Choose a distance so that it is convenient for you to cultivate the bed. A distance of 60-70 cm is chosen if the approach to the bed is only from one side. If you can reach it from both sides, you can make it a meter or more. It is important that the middle is processed without much stress.
  • Length. Here everyone chooses based on the configuration of the site or their desire. There are no recommendations at all.

To prevent the bed from being too high, part of it can be buried: bury it 20-30 cm, and then put walls on top. The removed soil will be used for backfilling (there is often simply not enough soil), and the substrate from the lower coarse layers can be made thicker. And to minimize the cost of maintaining such a bed, you can.

How can you fence high beds?

You can use anything that can hold the soil. The most durable curbs are made from brick, stone and concrete.

But brick costs a lot, and it takes a long time to work with concrete. A concrete fence is made according to all the rules: first, formwork in which the reinforcement is laid, then it is poured with concrete and they wait until it sets. But the service life is impressive - decades.

Fencing for garden beds made of concrete is the most durable and will never “float”

Brick and stone fencing is also built according to all the rules: with mortar and bandaging. To reduce brick consumption, the walls are laid in half a brick. And so that the earth does not move it, the rows are reinforced with mesh.

But even in this option, you will need to install a meter support pillars. If your soil is viscous, heavy, and often waterlogged, such walls can be squeezed out. Therefore, install wooden or metal supports that will support long walls or make small beds, as for

Fence for high beds made of expanded clay concrete blocks

They also make fences for high beds from galvanized metal and slate. You can use used slate, you can buy new, wave or smooth - it doesn’t matter. Cut the sheets into strips of the required width. There is no need to fear that it is harmful. Slate contains asbestos in a bound state, and it does not dissolve with water. It is harmful when it is sawed: dust rises and enters the body through the respiratory tract. To reduce the risk, wear a respirator and wet the incision area.

They make fences for the garden beds from plastic. Have you changed the siding? Use it. There are old plastic panels - they are used. But plastic requires a rigid base. It is made from a metal mesh made of thick wire.

The grids can become the basis for pebbles or pellets. Only in this case will you need a double frame, inside of which stones or some other material is poured. This technique is called “gabion” and it is used to make not only fences for garden beds and gardens, but also fences. But to prevent water from seeping through the walls from the gabion beds, the inside of the box is lined with a thick film.

The most popular fencing is made of wood. You can use boards, timber, logs. Wood is good for everything, except that it rots.

And since all the conditions have been created in high beds to activate this process, destruction occurs quite quickly. You can slow down the process somewhat by painting the boards or impregnating them with a bioprotective composition. But there is still no guarantee against destruction.

But you can use cheap, and sometimes even waste, material: leftovers from construction, slabs, old logs, pallets, etc. If desired, you can even make a fence from branches. It is only advisable to remove the bark: it is under it that there are many larvae and woodworms. Although...they will also process the wood debris that you place at the bottom of the backfill. But you don’t need too many of them either, so it’s probably better to remove the bark.

From the same branches, only freshly cut, you can make a wicker fence. And it will also need to be lined with film from the inside: to keep water and earth inside.

You can even use straw. It is tied into small bundles, which are connected to each other using wire. It simply couldn’t be cheaper, and it holds water and temperature well. The only disadvantage of this option is that such a fence will last for a maximum of two seasons, but rather one. But it can then be used as one of the layers.

There are high beds without a fence: the so-called bulk beds. The soil in them is poured in the form of hills.

To improve drainage, branches are placed inside such a ridge. To reduce the height of the bed (for example, for tomatoes), it is deepened a little, throwing the soil to the side. After laying the branches, it is filled on top; there is often a need for additionally imported soil. If you cannot choose row spacing deeply.

The disadvantage of this kind of garden: when watering and during rains, the top layer of soil is washed away. That’s why they started making boxes - to avoid washing out the soil.

Layers of raised beds

Framing is only a small part of the job. The resulting box still needs to be filled. It must be said right away that the thickness of the layers depends on the height of the bed that you have chosen, so if any values ​​are given, they are purely approximate. In addition to the size of the bed, the thickness of the layer, for example, fertile, is influenced by the choice of plants: for some, 5 cm is enough, but for others, much more is needed.

So, what to pour into a high bed - layers from bottom to top:

  1. A metal mesh with a fine mesh or layer is placed at the bottom. You can put cardboard. Mesh and geotextiles - protection against rodents and moles. Cardboard plays approximately the same role, but it is less effective.
  2. Large woody debris: thick branches, twigs, even logs and bars. This layer serves, firstly, for drainage, and secondly, moisture accumulates in the wood. The drier the climate in your region, the more wood you need. Moreover, the following wood layers too.
  3. Chopped small branches, bark. Other coarse plant debris will work: corn stalks, straw. Their task is also twofold. They store water and, when decomposed, release heat and nutrients. But when using corn trunks and straw, keep in mind that the bed will soon sink: these remains will rot quickly, but the yield will be high, and you can sprinkle fertile soil on top.
  4. Paper, thin cardboard. It is usually lined with a thin layer. Packaging cardboard is more often used, because glossy paper is not suitable, just like newspapers: lead paint is not at all what you need to fertilize plants with. If you have old unnecessary burlap (natural), you can lay it down.
  5. Layer of plant residues: foliage, grass, semi-decomposed sawdust. Be careful with sawdust: they strongly acidify the soil. So sprinkle them under plants that like acidic soil, or neutralize the acidity by sprinkling them good layer ash.
  6. Fertile land.

You can add a good portion of mature compost to the last two layers, as well as sprinkle it into the deeper layers. This will speed up the “readiness” of the raised bed for planting.

When is the best time to do it and what to plant?

It is better to fill a high bed in the fall. During this period, there will be enough “material” and over the winter the processes inside will gain momentum. In this case, you can plant plants in the spring and hope for a high harvest. It can be done in the spring, but there are unlikely to be any significant differences in yield: the processes have just begun and will not have a noticeable effect on the fertility of the backfill. Although you will definitely feel the difference in the amount of water for irrigation: much less water is required.

One of the options for a high bed: metal mesh and reinforced polyethylene film

Plant rotation

In the year a high bed is installed, plants that require high fertility can be planted on it: cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, pumpkin, any type of cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, Bell pepper. The next year you can plant greens - spicy-aromatic and leafy. Root vegetables feel good in the second year.

After the second harvest, fertility must be restored. If the contents of the bed have sagged, in the fall they add good soil mixed with mature compost. If there is nowhere to add more, remove part of the top layer (on compost heap or into another box as part of the backfill) and replace it with fresh soil with fertilizers.

High bed for strawberries

It differs only in that covering material is spread over the finished “pie”. Holes are made in it into which plants are planted. This option leads to the fact that moisture evaporates in minimal quantities, and weeds do not grow in the aisles. The second option - mulching the soil also works well, but evaporation is more intense.

The peculiarity of strawberries is that their roots are located mainly on the surface. Therefore, the fertile layer may be small. But this same feature leads to the fact that in severe frosts it can die. Although a decomposition process is taking place inside the high bed, warming the soil, if the bed is without snow and not covered for the winter, it may root system may freeze.

High bed for cucumbers and tomatoes

In terms of its structure, it is no different. Is it just because poles and crossbars or stretched wire are needed at the edges so that you can tie up tomato bushes or cucumber vines.

DIY raised beds

Most often, questions arise not when laying layers in high beds, but when making the box. Since women are often involved in gardening, including making fences for garden beds, many aspects may not be clear to them. To clarify the most difficult ones, we present photo reports of making boxes from boards and slate - the most common fencing.

From boards

Several options for how to make high beds from boards were in the photo above. The main problem is usually the connection in the corners. The easiest way is to overlap them: just put one to the other at 90° and nail them all the way through. But there are aesthetes who strive to do everything right. The correct way is to cut two boards at an angle of 45° and connect them that way. This is exactly the option that will be demonstrated in the photo.

To make it convenient to fix the fence on the ground, vertical bars or pieces of board are nailed in increments of 1.2-1.5 m, the length of which is approximately 20 cm greater than the selected height of the bed.

The lower end of the block or board needs to be sharpened - this will make it easier to drive the fence into the ground. Then take a miter box or circular saw and cut the edges at an angle of 45°. By placing two boards together we get a perfect 90° angle.

For strong connection With inside We install a block at the corner, to which we nail the boards.

This is what happened. It just lies with its “burdens” up. They are driven into the ground

It doesn’t take long to make a fence for high beds made of wood, but it’s even easier to connect the boards end-to-end and nail them down for strength. metal corners(pictured below).

From logs

It is no more difficult to make a similar box from hewn logs. For example, this option: two long sides are made of logs, and short sides are made of pieces of boards.

Whitewash the finished fence: both protection from pests and a more attractive appearance.

From slate

When making beds from flat or wave slate Questions also arise about how to secure it. The easiest way is to dig it in. But this is not economical: you will have to make the stripes at least 10 cm wider and there is still no guarantee that the slate will not “float” in the spring. In the muddy ground it will simply be squeezed out en masse. It can be fixed, but it will take extra time and effort.

Therefore, most often, corners or pipes are driven in on one or both sides of the sheet, which clamp the slate and prevent it from deviating much. In the photo, the corners are driven in only from the outside: from the inside there will be pressure from the mass of layers of the high bed, so that the fence will not fall inward.

The junction of two sheets is secured with a special welded plate. For reliability, they can be bolted to a wooden block attached to that side.

A piece of reinforcement with a welded plate - to insure the joint of two sheets of flat slate

Another option is to make a frame. Attach a beam or corner to similar racks with welded plates - whichever is cheaper. And attach slate cut into strips to this frame (it holds well with nails, but it’s easier with self-tapping screws).

Frame made of timber in a fence for a high bed

Using the same principle - with guides - beds are made from plastic panels and other similar materials. As you understand, there is no need for particularly virtuoso skill here. The main thing is that it holds up well.


What amateur gardeners can come up with to get a good harvest.

Today we will introduce you to unusual technology- growing crops in high beds.

Advantages and disadvantages of raised beds

Raised beds are a limited space raised above the ground. They are used for growing other crops.

It is best to build such structures in the fall, but with proper maintenance you can create an “elevated” structure at other times of the year.

Important! If you build too high sides - more than 70 cm, the bees will not be able to pollinate, which will negatively affect the further growth of the crop.

Like any decision related to growing vegetable crops, this has its advantages and disadvantages.

Let's list the advantages of high beds:

  • in the spring it warms up faster, and sowing can be done much earlier than in open ground; this will increase the yield by 2 times;
  • thanks to the boundaries of the box, the mulch will not be washed away or carried away by gusts of wind;
  • the design provides good - this will avoid moisture stagnation;
  • there is the possibility of individual selection of soil for each site, which will ensure optimal conditions for growing crops;
  • thanks to the design, you can protect the crop from sudden temperature changes;
  • it is much easier to cultivate the soil, since the amount of work is significantly reduced;
  • raised areas are convenient because you don’t have to bend over too much;
  • the structure looks beautiful, with the right approach to construction it will last a long time and will not collapse;
  • can be built in any sunny location.

Despite great amount advantages, this method also has disadvantages. The disadvantages of raised beds are:
  • the need to constantly feed due to limited space;
  • physical and material investments required to construct the structure;
  • the risk of proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms that can be dangerous to plants.

Don't be scared possible difficulties- it’s enough to take the construction of an unusual design seriously, and you will get a rich harvest.

Optimal sizes

Each gardener can independently choose the size of the future garden bed, since there are no clearly established dimensions. However, there are certain recommendations that may come in handy when you build tall ones with your own hands.

Height

Optimal height sides vary from 15 to 50 cm. If you plan to place the structure on fertile soil, it is necessary to limit the height to 15–20 cm. This amount of mound is quite enough to get a good harvest.

If the soil on the site is not very favorable for growing crops, the bed should be raised higher - about 50 cm. Depending on the wishes of the gardeners, you can raise the walls of the structure even higher - in this case you will not have to bend over while weeding or planting. But remember that such a design will require more materials.

Width and length

The optimal width of the structure is considered to be a distance from 90 to 120 cm. It is necessary to arrange the site in such a way that it can accommodate 2 rows. This layout will allow plants to receive sufficient quantity air and sunlight, which will undoubtedly affect the harvest.

If you plant many rows, there is a chance that the ones in the center will not receive required amount air and light, which will lead to a decrease in yield. Ridge standard width easy to process.

Important! When choosing plastic for construction, be careful: some types of plastic emit toxins and are not suitable for use in agriculture.

When thinking about the length of the site, you can be guided solely by the capabilities of the territory. However, most often there are structures from 1.5 to 3 m long. Such areas look compact and neat.

Choosing a place on a summer cottage

It is very important to take a responsible approach to choosing the location where the structure will be located in the future. It is better to place high beds in the country in sunny areas: light should reach this place for at least 6 hours a day. Be sure to take this requirement into account if you plan to place the structure near any buildings or fences.

When placing the embankment on open ground you should adhere to the following recommendations:

  • put it on the ground metal mesh- this will protect the roots of plants from rodents;
  • Place old newspapers on the bottom of the structure - this technique will significantly slow down growth.

Selection of material and step-by-step manufacturing instructions

A wide variety of materials can be used to build tall ones. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most common types of structures and the features of their manufacture.

Wooden structure

This material is perhaps a classic for creating beds. It attracts gardeners with its accessibility. For manufacturing, you can use boards and logs.

Did you know? By choosing larch boards for construction, you will significantly increase the service life of the structure. Tree resin is an excellent protector from external influences and prevents the destruction of boards.

  1. Before you begin assembling the structure, it is necessary to process the boards. To do this, you can use all kinds of impregnations that will prevent the wood from decomposing. You can also coat the boards with varnish or paint. The safest and in an accessible way wood processing is lime - just whitewash the elements.
  2. Using a regular tool, you need to attach the bars to the boards. To do this, you need to nail posts to the edges of the short boards. Long boards are also connected to bars. Choose the bars so that they go 20–30 cm into the ground.
  3. On next stage it is necessary to knock down the box. Try to avoid any gaps; the boards should fit snugly against the bars.
  4. The final stage is the installation of the mounted box. Once you have driven the timber into the ground, use a level to check that it is level.

Important! When installing a bed next to fruit trees, before marking, you will need to install a barrier for the root system.

After installing the structure, you can fill it with soil and begin planting.

Use of stone

There can be no doubt about the durability of such a design. But due to the high cost of the material, not everyone can afford such beauty. If you find the funds for a stone bed, it will become a wonderful decoration for your summer cottage.

Instructions for the manufacture of such a design include the following steps:

  • it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter of the proposed site, 30 cm deep;
  • put polyethylene or roofing felt on the bottom;
  • fill the trench with sand to a third of its depth;
  • laying stones;
  • fill concrete foundation pre-prepared solution;
  • Next, masonry is carried out around the perimeter using a solution that is applied only to the inside of the stone;
  • After 2–3 weeks you can add soil and plant the plants.

Brick beds

By building a high brick bed, you will undoubtedly decorate your site. This design is very similar to a stone structure: it has the same construction principle and a relatively high cost of materials.

In addition to the costs of materials and a long manufacturing process, you will have to find a specialist who can lay out a beautiful, even composition.

From slate

This material is distinguished by its durability. Everyone at their dacha has unnecessary pieces of slate, which are just useful for building raised beds.

We invite you to read the manufacturing instructions:

  1. First of all, the materials are prepared: it is necessary to cut the plates and give them the desired size.
  2. At the next stage, a trench is dug according to predetermined dimensions.
  3. Cut slate plates are installed in the dug hole around the perimeter. If you are using flat slate, it is necessary to connect the strips using corners - this will give reliability to the structure.
  4. Then the trench needs to be filled with soil and compacted well.
That's all - the slate structure is ready and you can start sowing crops.

Made of plastic

Plastic beds can be of two types. The first is the use of plastic panels. In this case, this is an almost ideal option for creating a structure. It has excellent thermal insulation, has a long service life and allows you to create a bed of any shape.

Such blanks can be purchased in specialized stores. The principle of constructing the structure is the same as in the case of slate.

Important! When making beds from slate, you should not drive it into the ground - this creates the risk of its destruction. To install the edges, carefully dig the slate into the soil.

Another option is to make a garden bed out of plastic bottles. However, this is not entirely good way, since there can be no question of tightness. Besides plastic bottles quickly deform, which over time will make the site not very attractive.

From straw and branches

One of the cheapest materials for making beds is straw.. Bales are quite affordable, so this method of building beds is the most budget-friendly.