How to make ventilation in the cellar: we make natural and artificial circulation. Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation: diagram and work process How to make ventilation in the cellar

Ventilation in the cellar plays a very important role, because if there is no regular air flow, dampness will appear in the room for storing fresh food. Setting up a hood in the basement is quite simple. And this can be done not only at one of the stages of construction, but also in an already finished building.

On what principle does the ventilation system work?

Before making ventilation in the cellar, study the principle of its operation. It is based on the laws of physics, which are relied upon when creating a scheme for arranging ventilation. According to it, to create ventilation, 2 holes must be provided. Fresh air leaks into one of them into the basement. Through the second hole, air, along with vapors, exits the cellar to the street. The scheme is quite simple, but for greater efficiency you need to run pipes to the holes. In addition, the operation of the system is greatly influenced by the location of the pipes for air supply and exhaust, as well as their level above the soil surface.

Ventilation pipes should be located directly in the basement walls. It is also common for residents to install a hood in the garage cellar. In the latter case, the pipes must pass through the room and exit above the roof of the building. Very important factor When creating a diagram, the height of installation of pipes from the cellar to the street is considered. If calculated incorrectly, the cellar hood will suck in too much a large number of cold air, which will negatively affect the shelf life of fresh vegetables. Experts also do not advise making too small holes for piping, as this will not allow evaporation to be completely removed, which will lead to loss of food.

There are a lot of opinions and advice on how to make a hood in the cellar. Let's explore the most useful recommendations concerning the creation of a scheme and the air circulation system itself for basement. Many experts advise to provide a ventilation system during the construction of the basement. At this time, you can leave holes in the walls of the room into which pipes will be installed in the future. So as not to choose later appropriate place for laying channels, we recommend including an exhaust system in the initial basement design.

The pipes used to circulate air must be the same size. If the room has high humidity, the exhaust pipe can be taken with a diameter slightly larger than that of the supply pipe. One of the main rules is not to do the opposite, otherwise it will lead to air retention in the room. Another helpful advice– do not place both pipes next to each other. In such a situation, the basement will not be fully ventilated. It is best to place the ducts in opposite corners so that the air passes through the entire room. The exhaust vent must be installed under the basement ceiling. This is due to the fact that the exhaust hot air will quickly rise to the top. This position of the pipe will contribute to uninterrupted air purification without the slightest stagnation under the ceiling.

The exhaust pipe should rise 1.5 m above the ridge. This will ensure sufficient air draft.

To equip the exhaust system, plastic pipes are most often used. Ventilation of the cellar in the garage should be arranged using pipes with a minimum of turns and bends. It is best that the channels are perfectly smooth and straight. In addition, each channel must have the same diameter along its entire length. Before ventilating the basement, install special dampers on the pipes. Their presence is especially important in winter, when you need to independently regulate the air supply and outflow. If the pipe heads are vertical, they will need to be protected from rain and snow. This can be done by using a decorative metal plate in the shape of an umbrella.

Types of exhaust systems - natural or forced?

Also, before you make ventilation in the basement, decide on the type of system. It can be natural or forced. Choose the most suitable option possible, taking into account the layout and volume of the basement. The first type of hood is based on a small difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside the room. Ventilation efficiency is greatly influenced by the location of the pipes. The air intake hole should be at a height of about 30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust hole should be at a distance of 20 cm below the ceiling. It is impossible to leave the latter lower, as otherwise the ceiling will very quickly begin to become damp. Such a system will not be enough for arranging large basements that consist of several rooms.

Ventilation of the second type also consists of pipes, but special fans must be installed in them to force the air to circulate in the room. The simplest system involves installing a fan only in the exhaust duct. In this case, a vacuum is artificially created in the room, which helps to quickly draw air through the inflow hole. The fan power must be selected taking into account the area of ​​the cellar. Often homeowners do things a little differently. They put fans on both channels. This is especially true for basements with several small rooms.

Ventilation installation - detailed algorithm

Almost every inexperienced person wonders how to properly build a cellar. To do this, you need to follow a certain algorithm:

1. 1. If ventilation system installed after the construction of the basement, then a hole must be made in its ceiling for air circulation.
2. 2. After this, a pipe intended for exhaust is lowered through the hole.
3. 3. Fix the pipe under the ceiling surface no more than 15-20 cm below it.
4. 4. Outside, the pipe should be raised 1.5 meters above the ground or above the roof.
5. 5. In the corner of the ceiling opposite, you also need to make a hole and stretch a pipe into it for air flow. Place it at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor.
6. 6. The outside supply pipe should not be too high. If it passes through the ceiling, then its upper part should be located no higher than 25 cm above the surface.
7. 7. If the inflow pipe is led through the wall, then you will need to put a deflector or grill on it.
8. 8. If ventilation installation is carried out inside a residential building with a stove or fireplace, then the exhaust pipe rises near the chimney. This will promote more active removal of air from the basement due to the difference in temperature.
9. 9. At the end of installation, control valves must be installed on the pipes. They will allow you to enter the premises required quantity air.

After installing the system, you will need to check it for traction. To ensure normal air pressure at the inlet, a paper sheet is applied to the supply pipe. If it starts to tremble, it means that air is actively entering the room. The second method is to set fire to paper in a bucket inside the basement. Based on the direction of the smoke, it will be possible to determine where and how fast the air is moving.

What needs to be done to maintain the indoor microclimate

Having considered how to properly make ventilation, we suggest you understand further measures to care for the room. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in the basement, you need to perform certain procedures from time to time. So, to help reduce humidity in the room, ventilate it regularly. In the summer, be sure to open the doors and hatches of the room, as well as the valves on the pipes, once a week. The hot wind that gets inside will dry out the floor, walls and ceiling of the basement well.

Often, owners are faced with situations where they need to quickly increase the humidity in the room. To do this, you need to spray it with water from a regular spray bottle. You can also place a container with wet sand or sawdust in the basement. If you need to dry out the basement, then first of all you need to remove all the shelving and other furniture from it. All racks must be dried naturally under straight sun rays. Open the hatches and door wide and turn on the fan. The room must remain in this condition for at least 3 days. After this, proceed directly to drying the basement.

To get rid of moisture in a room, bring and leave several boxes of quicklime or large table salt. These substances absorb moisture very quickly. In addition, they effectively disinfect the surfaces of the room and the air in it. More old method is to use a candle. Install and secure it next to the exhaust vent. Light a candle and wait a couple of days. The flame generates better draft, due to which more processed raw air comes out.

Another way to dry quickly and efficiently is to use a fryer. It is easy to do it yourself using a regular metal bucket. First, make several holes in the container, then fill it with birch firewood. Next, light the logs and leave to burn for at least 12 hours. During this time, the room will quickly dry out, after which you can store your food in it without fear of losing it.

Processing the cellar to protect it from moisture is an important procedure for the freshness of food

The measures for caring for the cellar do not end with just drying the room. To extend the period of preservation of the cellar without moisture, the surface of the floor and walls must be covered with waterproofing compounds. If the walls in the room are made of concrete, use impregnation deep penetration. It must be applied in several layers, each of which will seep into the slabs and close the holes and cracks in them.

Sometimes a dried cellar is covered with roofing felt. It is considered a good insulator, but to use it, the walls and floor must be perfectly level. To do this, first mastic is applied to the surface, which needs to be heated, and then the insulator itself is laid on top.

An environmentally friendly material for waterproofing is clay. It must be very oily, otherwise there will be no benefit from its use. Before applying the material, the basement floor must be laid out with stones, on top of which clay mixed with sand is poured. The layer should be approximately 10–12 cm. After application, the clay must be compacted between the stones, after which a layer of coarse sand must be poured on top. It will also need to be compacted. The only disadvantage of this method is that it takes a long time for the floor to dry. On average, this takes approximately 30–40 days.

Drying the basement using household appliances - fan or heater?

You can also get rid of excess moisture in the food storage room using household heaters and fans. In the first case, “wind-blown” and convector heater models are suitable. To dry wall and floor surfaces, install the heater in the center of the room. This way, the device will distribute heat evenly and none of the corners will remain damp. Don't forget that this drying method takes a lot of time. In addition, you will have to spend a lot on paying for electricity.

Often, basement owners use powerful steam generators. Due to its radiation, the food storage room dries out very quickly. As a result, you will spend a little less, because drying will take less time. Due to the effectiveness of this method, it is often used even in basements that have experienced a flood.

To get rid of moisture using a fan, the device must be placed in the center of the room and turned on. Complete drying in this way will take at least 4 days. Often, an ordinary old potbelly stove helps cellar owners. In such cases, the stove outlet pipe is led to the basement hood. You will have to heat the potbelly stove for at least 5 days until the basement surfaces are completely dry. If there is no exhaust hole in the cellar, then this method will not work.

A cellar is a room, most of which is below ground level. Moreover, its functions are not limited only to storage space for vegetables and other family supplies. In a modern private house, you can equip it with a workshop, a sauna, a sports hall, a billiard room, a boiler room and much more. But the main purpose of the cellar is to store vegetables, wines and other household preparations, which significantly frees up space in the house. To increase the shelf life, it is necessary that the temperature is within 5 degrees, the humidity does not exceed 90%, and there is a constant flow of fresh air. Therefore, proper ventilation of the cellar is extremely important to maintain the microclimate.

In addition, ventilation for the cellar is still necessary so that the wiring laid in the cellar for its lighting is not subject to excessive influence of humidity. Certainly, electrical cables laid in special sleeves, but proper ventilation serves as an additional protective factor.

Purpose of cellar ventilation

It is correctly designed and installed that ensures its correct functioning as intended. With air flow in the amount necessary for storing vegetables, their shelf life in a state suitable for food increases significantly.

If the cellar room is poorly ventilated, the air in it stagnates, the microclimate is disturbed, vegetables and other products spoil. After all, not only vegetables are stored in cellars; for example, many types of homemade sausages can be made there, and for them, a violation of at least one of the storage and preparation indicators threatens rapid spoilage.

However, excessive ventilation is also undesirable. After all, then a draft is created, which leads to accelerated drying of vegetables and sausages. So proper ventilation cellars must be provided.

Therefore, it is necessary to take into account all factors: the size of the room, the possibility of supplying electricity for the installation of forced artificial ventilation, waterproofing of the cellar walls, ceiling and foundation materials.

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Natural ventilation device

Based on the principle natural ventilation lies the difference in air pressure in the room.

For arrangement natural system For a cellar you need 2 pipes: exhaust and supply. The exhaust air exits through the exhaust vent. Air enters the supply room. In order to make ventilation, galvanized or asbestos-cement products are used. In this case, the diameter of the pipe is calculated by calculation: an area of ​​1 sq.m will be provided by a pipe of 26 cm.

The exhaust pipe is usually laid along the corner of the cellar. Its lower open end is located at a height of 140-150 cm above the cellar floor level, that is, almost under the ceiling of the room.

The exhaust duct structure is laid vertically through all rooms, going outside, it should be 50 cm higher than the roof ridge. To prevent condensation from accumulating on it, the part must be insulated. It is best for these purposes to use a larger diameter pipe into which the air duct pipe will be inserted, and the gap between them will be filled with insulation, which can be 50 mm thick mineral wool.

The supply pipe of the ventilation duct is located in the opposite corner of the cellar in relation to the exhaust pipe. Its open end is located below the exhaust end and is at a level of 40-60 cm from the cellar floor level. The supply pipe of the air duct rises above the level of the zero point of the house at a height of approximately 80 cm.

It is this arrangement of ventilation air ducts that allows you to create the required pressure difference for air movement in the cellar. If the temperature difference inside the cellar is significant, then a draft is inevitable. To avoid this, it is necessary to install a special valve that will regulate the flow of circulating air. Such valves are installed on both the supply and exhaust pipes. In addition, to prevent insects and midges from entering the cellar, the upper opening of the supply pipe is covered with a mesh, which is periodically cleaned or replaced.

The advantages of natural cellar ventilation are:

• low cost: costs will affect only pipes and insulation;
• energy savings;
• possibility of self-installation;
• no need for constant monitoring - regulation is required only when there is a large temperature difference;
• compatibility with other ventilation systems installed in the house, which allows you to additionally build forced ventilation for the cellar.

After completing the installation of ventilation pipes, it is necessary to check their functionality. To do this, attach a sheet of plain paper to one of the ventilation pipes. At the same time, if you attach it to the exhaust pipe, the sheet should be attracted to the pipe, and slightly repelled from the supply pipe. In addition to the sheet, you can use a candle flame as a test for ventilation operation. To do this, you need to light a candle and bring it to the exhaust pipe - the flame will change its direction towards the pipe. When the candle is brought to the supply pipe, the flame, on the contrary, will be directed towards the cellar. After a successful check using one of the methods, the cellar ventilation system will be ready for operation.

However, in the future you should carefully monitor the air condition in the cellar. If mustiness, dampness, or condensation appears on the wall or ceiling, the efficiency of the ventilation system should be increased. This can be done by opening the valves or installing forced ventilation.

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Forced ventilation of the cellar: features

Installation diagram of ventilation pipes in the cellar: A – Supply pipe; B – Exhaust pipe.

However, natural ventilation is not always enough to fully provide the room with fresh air. Therefore, if the area of ​​the room is large and the height is close to 2 m, or the natural hood does not cope with its functions properly, then a forced cellar system will be required.

The construction of an artificial structure is quite complex engineering problem, the implementation of which will require significant efforts or the involvement of specialists.

Structurally, this ventilation is a sequential installation on the supply or exhaust pipe of such elements as:

• duct heater;
• duct fan;
• sound muffler;
• filter cassette;
• duct fan;
• check valve;
• blinds and pipe sheathing.

At the same time, duct fans differ in their types and other technical characteristics, for example, power. The direction of the fans should be such that the air goes outward when installed on exhaust pipes and goes inward when installed on supply pipes. In this case, the pipes themselves can be placed horizontally or vertically. The efficiency and durability of the ventilation system directly depends on the technical parameters of the fans.

The forced ventilation system can be automatic or mechanical.

Each of you has probably been to your grandmother’s basement or cellar, making a heroic trip to buy a jar of preserves. Have you noticed that the basement is different from the basement? Dark and damp basements or the cellars weren't particularly attractive, were they? But the dry and light ones did not evoke either disgust or fear. Of course, our ancestors didn’t really bother with the question of how to do it. All they needed was a piece of pipe for the hood and a slightly open hood to ensure air circulation, which was what they limited themselves to. How are things going now? When building a new house or refurbishing an old one, after purchasing housing on the secondary market, a truly zealous owner will definitely pay Special attention construction of a basement or cellar. In particular, achieving minimum humidity, which is very important for rooms located below the floor surface level. Now we will not talk about water-resistant materials and features of drainage structures. We will talk about seemingly ordinary ventilation. However, not everyone knows how to do it correctly with their own hands in order to reduce moisture condensation in a cellar or basement to a minimum. Therefore, everyone interested in how to install such ventilation is welcome to a small technical educational program.

So, what do we actually know about air flows? Cold masses sink down, and warm masses rise up, thereby forming air currents, popularly called “wind”. Well, as you understand, no one will organize wind in the literal sense of the word in the basement. But creating (and technically installing) a light draft to ventilate a basement or cellar is not only possible, but also necessary. Let's turn to the classic scheme of supply and exhaust ventilation.

What will we need for correct device ventilation, let's list:

1. Asbestos-cement pipes, with a diameter of 100-150 mm (plastic sewer pipes can also be used, this simplifies and facilitates installation).
2. Insulation (mineral cotton wool will do never better).
3. Insulating material (rolled foil for heating systems).
4. Fastening elements.
5. Protective elements (mesh plug and galvanized umbrella).
6. Polyurethane foam.

This is certainly not full list the materials and devices used. Some, especially meticulous ones, install a condensate collection and removal system, as well as forced circulation systems. We will definitely say a few words about this, but only after describing the classic ventilation installation scheme.

Choosing a place

First of all, we need to figure out where and how to place our air ducts so that the air movement in the basement or cellar is correct, i.e. mark entry and exit points.

Important!

Remember - the incoming air duct (air intake) is always lower than the outlet (air outlet) in level.

To put it simply, the entrance should be located approximately at a height of 300-400 mm from the level of the floor screed, and the exit should be closer to the ceiling, and they should be located in opposite parts of the basement to ensure better air circulation.

Installation of supply and exhaust system

Now directly to the installation. Of course, it’s not bad if the builders, when casting or laying the walls of a basement or cellar, took care in advance of organizing holes for ventilation.

But it also happens that no one remembers about this until mold and mildew form on the walls due to constant humidity. Another option, often found in old houses, is an ordinary hole through the foundation into the basement or cellar, closed with a leaky piece of iron or without one at all.

According to most would-be builders, this is quite enough for normal ventilation. It is in such cases that the need arises to take a hammer drill and make holes with your own hands in a load-bearing monolith (and even more interestingly in a rubble foundation masonry) or ceiling. The construction of such openings is not a pleasant procedure. But…

We will assume that having decided on the heights and location of the holes, you have already coped with this difficult task, or the builders thought of everything in advance when casting or laying. All you have to do is install the ventilation system, armed with the tools and materials listed above.

Advice!

It is best to start installation from the street.

Having launched a horizontal outlet through the basement wall, we install a corner to obtain a vertical line. We install the pipe in an existing corner, thus obtaining an outlet approximately 300-400 mm above ground level. We foam the voids between the horizontal section of the ventilation pipe and the wall of the basement or cellar. We put a galvanized protective “umbrella” on the vertical section to prevent moisture from getting in, and move on to indoor installation. There, too, everything is quite simple - we place the same corner on the horizontal section that goes inside, and mount the vertical lower using brackets with clamps. The lower section of the vertical section of our ventilation pipe should be located, as mentioned above, 300-400 mm above the floor level. Agree, it’s quite easy to do this with your own hands. Since we have provided the air supply channel, we can begin installing the exhaust part of the ventilation system.

The principle is the same, only this time the large vertical is brought outward and continues upward (ideally, 500 mm above the level of the roof ridge). Before installing it, it is insulated with mineral wool. The outer layer can be a galvanized box or, more simply, but no less productive, a thick rolled foil used in the installation of heating systems and preventing excessive heat loss. The thermal insulation device for the exhaust pipe of your ventilation can be absolutely anything, but the main thing is efficiency. If you have a cash surplus, you can use a factory-made multilayer pipe insulated with polyurethane foam with galvanized protection. We mainly consider purely budget options. The same clamping brackets are used for wall mounting. A galvanized “umbrella” is installed on top of the pipe.

And a little more about the collection and removal of condensate. Interior the exhaust pipe is sometimes equipped with a sump. It is a tee, made, as a rule, from the same galvanized material, with two hollow horizontal parts. One of these parts is mounted on the end of the outgoing pipe and has a blind vertical part pointing downwards, with a drain valve built into it.

Natural ventilation in the basement

Possibility of forced ventilation

If you still haven’t managed to achieve sufficient air circulation in the basement even after carrying out such sophisticated manipulations, don’t be too upset. You can call on the ubiquitous technological progress to help and provide your basement or cellar with a forced ventilation system. And, of course, all this with your own hands. It is enough to make a small box and place an exhaust fan there. It is not expensive and your expenses will certainly be justified. Connecting to the electrics is not difficult. Anyone can do this with their own hands. Just before connecting, do not forget to turn off the power to the internal network in order to avoid meeting with holy saints.

In general, there are quite a lot of options for the location of pipes with this ventilation scheme. For example, in garages, if they have basements, the exhaust pipe, as a rule, runs indoors. In an old private sector, if there is a cellar, we can only see two pipes sticking out of the ground. In luxury homes, you can spend hours sorting out complex schemes and be amazed at the intricacies of bourgeois automation for ventilation systems.

Whatever it is, the main thing is that your basement or cellar is always dry and light. And it is quite possible to do this with your own hands, the main thing is to have a little hard work and imagination.By the way, your work enthusiasm may well be increased by your family, who will sooner or later get tired of visiting the dark and damp basement.

Forced ventilation of the cellar

However, in order for food to remain in it for a long time, it is necessary to ensure effective ventilation. In this article we will tell you how to properly make a hood in the cellar.

How it works?

Natural ventilation must have 2 pipes: supply and exhaust. It is best to use a galvanized or asbestos pipe when constructing a structure. It is also important to correctly calculate the diameter: 1 sq.m of basement should be provided with 26 sq.m. cm duct area.

Necessary for fresh air to enter the cellar. For greater efficiency, it must be installed in a corner that is located on the opposite side from the installation site of the hood.

Important! Choose a place to install the supply air duct so that winter time it wasn't covered in snow.

The supply air duct should be placed so that its open end is at a distance of 40-60 cm from the floor. It should completely penetrate the ceilings and rise above the roof by about 80 cm.

Thanks to it, there will be an outflow of stale air from the cellar. It is recommended to install it along the corner so that the lower end is under the ceiling.
It should pass in a vertical position through the entire cellar, the roof and extend beyond it by 50 cm.

To ensure that less condensation or frost collects in the air duct, it is insulated - another one is inserted into it, and the distance between them is filled with insulation.

Ventilation in a cellar with two pipes is carried out thanks to different specific gravity warm air inside and cold air outside.

If there is a large temperature difference, there is a risk of a draft, which will lead to freezing of the cellar.
To prevent this, during construction they use gate valves on the air ducts, which allow air circulation to be adjusted.

Types of systems

Today, two types of ventilation systems are installed: natural and forced. The choice of one option or another is influenced by the volume and layout of the basement.

Forced

The design of the forced system includes pipes, but in order to ensure forced air movement, fans are built into them.

Did you know? The need and benefits of ventilation were known many centuries ago. However, then there were no special structures - just ventilation was carried out.

Typically, the fan installation location is the exhaust duct. With its help, it is possible to achieve artificial vacuum in the cellar, thanks to which fresh air can enter the room through the supply opening.

Depending on the volume of the cellar, fans of different power are selected. If the basement has complex configurations, fans are installed on both channels.
During construction forced exhaust you cannot do without the help of a specialist who will help you correctly calculate the intake and output of air flows, the diameters of the required air ducts and the power of the fans.

Natural

The main idea of ​​creation natural exhaust consists of taking into account the difference in pressure and temperature in the cellar and outside it. It is very important to correctly determine where the pipes will be located.
It is better to place the supply opening at a height of 25-30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust opening should not be lower than 10-20 cm from the ceiling. If you place it lower, dampness and mold will soon appear on the ceiling.

How to make calculations?

If you decide to make a hood in the cellar with your own hands, you should pay important attention to calculations related to pipe diameters.

When constructing professional ventilation, complex calculations and formulas are used that are inappropriate for homemade design. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the methodology that will be suitable for constructing homemade ventilation.

Important! Be sure to cover the opening of the draft pipe with a metal mesh, since without it rodents and insects can enter the cellar.

S=3x2=6 sq.m.

Taking into account the ratio that we took as a basis, the cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe channel will be:

T=6x26=156 sq.cm.

The radius of the ventilation duct is calculated using the formula:

R=√(T/π)=√(156/3.14)≈7.05 cm

D≈14 cm=140 mm.

If available only supply ventilation(the exhaust is represented by a hatch), the cross-section of the inlet pipe can be slightly increased - an air duct with a diameter of 15 cm is quite suitable.

To ensure effective air exchange, it is recommended to install an exhaust pipe whose diameter is 10-15% larger than the inlet pipe.

An air duct with the following diameter is suitable for the exhaust duct:

Dв=Dп+15%=140+21≈160 mm.

Installation of ventilation pipes

In this section we will tell you how to properly ventilate the cellar and what you should pay special attention to.

Where to place

The supply air duct is led outside from the surface of the ground. Its lower end should be located almost near the cellar floor, at a distance 20-30 cm.

To install the exhaust pipe, choose the opposite corner of the basement and place it close to the ceiling. One of its ends is led out through the ceilings onto the roof.

To increase the efficiency of the ventilation structure, use next advice:place a deflector on the pipe above the roof surface.

By covering the pipe with a cap, you can create negative pressure, which will increase the efficiency of the ventilation system.

Did you know? In ancient Egypt, ventilation was first actively used. Cheops Priramid has a huge number of air ducts.

Material selection

The following materials are usually used to construct a hood:

Asbestos cement pipes are very similar to slate pipes, which is why they received the same name. Both materials are quite durable, highly reliable and durable. Installation polyethylene pipes easy to do on your own.

Installation

When installing the ventilation system, pay attention to such moments:

• When installing the system in a ready-made cellar, you will need to make a special hole in the ceiling.
• It is necessary to lower a pipe into the basement through this hole - it will draw out air. Fix it at the top, next to the ceiling.
• The part of the pipe that is located outdoors must be raised at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof.
• In the opposite corner of the basement, you need to make a hole in the roof and install a supply pipe through it. It should end at a distance 20-50 cm from the floor.
• The supply air duct should not protrude too much from the roof. It will be enough to raise it to 25 cm.
• When installing a supply pipe in a wall, a deflector must be placed on its outer end.
• If the house has a fireplace or stove, the outlet pipe should be installed near the chimney.

Important! Improper ventilation or lack thereof will lead to stale air, which is sure to leak into the house and can negatively affect people's health. To prevent this, check regularly for traction.

There is nothing complicated in installing a ventilation system; the main thing is to follow all the rules and recommendations.

In order to maintain the cellar in good condition And long time To store food in it, you need to take care of the microclimate.
It is very important to maintain low humidity in the basement. To do this, it is worth periodically ventilating the room. In summer it is recommended to keep open doors and dampers. Gusts of warm wind will quickly dry out the cellar.

The cellar is a useful and functional room that can be filled not only with canned garden food, but also fresh vegetables and fruits. We all want to eat healthy foods, how good it is to eat an apple or cabbage grown in our summer cottage in the winter season... So that the cellar does not interfere, but, on the contrary, helps preserve vegetables and fruits for a long time maximum number useful substances, in this utility room it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation.

The need for ventilation in the cellar

From time immemorial, a cellar was provided for in the construction of residential buildings. In the absence of refrigerators, it helped keep food fresh for a long time. His can be roughly imagined as a covered pit with reinforced walls. Very often this is part of the basement of a building, equipped for storing agricultural products or other items.

The presence of ventilation is one of the main conditions for the long-term and uninterrupted functioning of the cellar.

Properly equipped ventilation is designed to solve the following problems:

1. Helps avoid accumulation of damp air.
2. Extends the useful shelf life of fresh fruits and vegetables.
3. Helps establish comfortable temperature and humidity.
4. Prevents the appearance of fungus and mold.
5. Makes the cellar safe to use.
6. Slows down the aging process of load-bearing building structures.

If there is no ventilation system in the cellar or it is installed incorrectly, then there is a possibility of spontaneous combustion due to the high concentration carbon dioxide. This is especially true for heated rooms, in which heating devices are most often installed in ground floor. The emergence of fungi also poses a significant danger.

Moldy formations not only spoil appearance premises, they pose a threat to human health. By inhaling spores from mold or mildew that penetrate from the cellar into living spaces, a person may suffer from asthma, chronic respiratory diseases, and may experience allergic reactions that are inexplicable at first glance.

Ventilation is the whole system, which includes various devices for creating proper air exchange in residential and non-residential premises.

The diagram clearly demonstrates everything existing methods air aeration

Classification of ventilation systems can be carried out according to various criteria, which are based on:

• method of pressure and movement of air masses;
• purpose (inflow or outflow of air);
• coverage of air exchange area (local or general);
• component design.

Natural

Ventilation can be divided into natural and artificial. The first method of ventilating rooms is based on the simplest physical laws. Air exchange occurs as a result of the difference between the temperatures of the atmosphere and the room, as well as different meanings pressure.

No special equipment is needed for natural ventilation; the entire process is organized using air ducts. As a rule, not a single building construction project can be completed without taking this point into account.

Natural ventilation directly depends on the materials used in construction. Wooden, brick buildings are better ventilated naturally than concrete ones. Air permeability can be reduced by layers of paint and mortar. To aid natural ventilation, open windows and doors periodically.

The natural ventilation system can be spontaneous or organized. Holes made at different heights and different diameters cope with the air exchange system in the second case.

This type of natural ventilation option is perfect for cellars. But it has a significant disadvantage - dependence on climatic conditions.

Artificial

An artificial type of ventilation system is used when natural way There is not enough air exchange. In this situation, special devices are installed to help replace used air in the room with clean air.

Filters, heaters, dust collectors, air ducts, fans, etc. do an excellent job of cleaning the air, humidifying it, and creating a comfortable temperature.

Designing rooms with this type of ventilation involves installing these devices on the most initial stages construction.

Positive aspects of artificial ventilation:

• independence from external natural factors (pressure, temperature, humidity);
• possibility of differentiated choice required characteristics room conditions (humidity, temperature, etc.).

It is clear that the creation of artificial ventilation requires more material investments and physical costs. This option, as a rule, is not used for small cellars.

Very often, builders and designers create a mixed type of ventilation system that combines the advantages of both natural and artificial ventilation.

Supply and exhaust

If we base the classification of ventilation on its purpose, then we can talk about supply and exhaust options.

In the first case, we are talking about forced air supply into the room. Exhausted air masses exit naturally.

The exhaust ventilation system is created specifically to improve the natural one. The basis of such ventilation is made up of fans, which help remove exhaust air from the room.

Optimally for good air exchange should be used supply and exhaust ventilation. In this way, it is possible to minimize the dependence of ventilation on changes in atmospheric pressure, on the direction and speed of movement of air masses.

Comparative characteristics of different types of ventilation

The table below clearly demonstrates all the pros and cons of different ventilation systems.

Table: positive and negative points of different ventilation

Ventilation type	pros	Minuses
Natural	Does not require installation of complex components. Saves energy resources. Operation does not require significant material costs.	Air exchange is directly dependent on the climate - on the direction and strength of the wind, pressure drop and other aspects of the external environment.
Artificial	The air exchange process can be regulated and automated by making the necessary settings. The entry of already purified air into the room. Insignificant indicators of noise “accompaniment” of ventilation operation.	Considerable cost of equipment. High price for holding installation work. Creating this type of ventilation yourself can lead to improper operation of the system (it is better to seek the help of professionals). System devices do not always fit into the interior of the premises.
Combined	Independence from external factors. Work stability.	Creation of a complex system of ventilation ducts. Energy dependence.
Supply and exhaust	Reducing the cost of heating premises during the cold period. Possibility of cleaning and filtering air masses. Automatic operating mode.	Complex design. Dependence on uninterrupted operation of energy sources. Costs of installation and purchase of devices included in the system. The high cost of installing a ventilation system.

To arrange ventilation in utility rooms, the natural type is most often used, since this is a less expensive method in many respects.

When planning long-term operation of a utility room, you should take care of a reliable ventilation system. The choice of the type of structure for air exchange depends on the purpose of the cellar, material capabilities, climatic conditions and some other points.

Already at the stage of laying the foundation, channels are made in the proposed location of the cellar, into which ventilation pipes are subsequently installed.

To ensure uniform distribution of air masses, ventilation pipes must be of the same diameter. It is best to install pipes on opposite walls or corners, then the air will not stagnate inside and the circulation will be constant.

DIY natural ventilation

The advantages of self-construction of natural ventilation are low cost, no need for professional knowledge, and ease of installation.

If at the design stage a decision was made to create natural ventilation in the cellar, then special openings are installed in the base of the foundation - vents, vents. To protect against various small animals (especially rodents) entering the basement, the openings are covered with bars.

The presence of a grate will help protect the cellar from small rodents getting into it

The vents can be made adjustable by placing dampers with doors on the outlet openings.

The presence of a door will help to participate in the process of air exchange regulation

The principle of natural ventilation in the cellar dictates the installation of two openings in this room - for air access and for air outlet. The exhaust pipe is mounted in the upper part of the cellar wall, and the supply shaft is mounted in the lower part. This arrangement of pipes allows cold fresh air enter the room through the supply duct, heat up and exit through the exhaust pipe to the outside. The distance between the supply and exhaust pipes should not be less than half a meter.

Such air exchange obeys the laws of physics - warm air rises up. The lower the temperature of the incoming air, the faster the ventilation process occurs.

In warm climates, natural ventilation will be difficult.

Materials and tools

Asbestos pipes are the most suitable material for creating natural ventilation.

Such pipes are often used when installing ventilation in the cellar.

There are other popular materials for ventilation shafts - pipes made of polyvinyl chloride and galvanized sheet. All connections and transitions to plastic pipes made using auxiliary materials: adapters, PVC corners. It's very simple and convenient.

Galvanized pipes are much more difficult to connect. When installing such pipes, there is a high probability of rusty areas forming at the joints, so galvanized pipes should be especially carefully treated with anti-corrosion agents.

In preparation for work, it is necessary to stock up on cement or similar material. When drilling a place for pipes, voids are obtained, which, after placing pipes in them, should be filled with mortar.

If a void forms between the pipe and the wall, it must be cemented

Fasteners, metal mesh, and protective caps for pipes will also come in handy.

Tools you will need:

• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• drill or hammer drill;
• trowel or spatula.

Schemes and calculation options

A diagram of natural ventilation will help you understand the essence of the operation of this system and determine the location of the pipes.

Based on the diagram, you can get a visual representation of the work of natural aeration

The diameter of the ventilation pipes is an important quantity on which the efficiency of the system will largely depend.

1 cm d pipe = 13 cm² section. For 1 m² of cellar, a 26 cm² section is sufficient.

This means that in order to purchase pipes for a cellar with an area of ​​ten square meters, you should make the following calculations:

1. 10 m² multiplied by 26 cm² = 260 cm²
2. The cross-sectional diameter of the pipe is calculated using the circle formula S =πR²

R² = S: π = 260:314 = 82.8 When extracting the root, we obtain a value of R = about 9 cm

D= 2R The pipe diameter should be 18 cm.

This simplified formula calculations for normal air exchange in the cellar, without taking into account the intensity of air mass exchange. Construction professionals install ventilation systems using more complex calculations.

Step-by-step instruction

Having determined the required pipe diameter, having prepared necessary materials and tools, you can begin to build natural ventilation.

1. We place the exhaust pipe in the corner of the room. The open end of the pipe should not be too high or too low from the floor. It is optimal to place the air exhaust pipe at a distance of 140–150 cm from the floor surface. If the cellar is a separate room, then the exhaust pipe is led outside through a hole made in the ceiling. If it is built under the residential part of the building, then it is advisable to place the exhaust shaft in the place of the common building ventilation duct.

   For better hood It is advisable to place a tip of a larger diameter at the end of the pipe

2. In the opposite corner we install a supply pipe, which we place much closer to the floor - 45–55 cm from the surface. Ventilation duct the supply pipe must pass through the ceilings; it must be raised from the zero floor level by 0.8 - 1 m. In a cellar built independently, this pipe is brought to the roof of the building, but it is installed below the exhaust pipe. If the utility room is located in a residential building, then the opening of the supply pipe is led outside into the wall of the building.

   When constructing such a pipe, be sure to position it correctly in relation to the bottom of the cellar

3. All holes and voids formed during the installation of pipes are covered with a solution; after it dries, the covered areas can be painted.

   Improving the aesthetic appearance and ventilation is achieved by getting rid of holes formed during installation

4. Valves are installed inside the pipes. This is done in order to influence the intensity of air mass movement by changing the clearance using a damper. Canopies are mounted on the pipes outside,

   This appearance not only improves the perception of the structure, but also performs a protective function.

   closing the openings with a valve to prevent precipitation or small animals from entering.

5. Pipes are insulated using special materials(mineral wool, ecowool, foil penofol and others suitable materials) in order to reduce the formation of condensation. Sandwich pipes can be used = two pipes different sizes, placed one inside the other. To free the accumulation of condensate inside the pipe, taps are installed at the bottom of the outlet channel to drain the water.

   In such pipes the likelihood of condensation formation is minimized

Forced ventilation

Fundamental differences between natural type There is practically no ventilation or forced ventilation. IN forced version In the air exchange of the cellar, there is an element that forces air masses to move.

Materials and tools

Most often, a fan acts as an air blower. This device should draw out excess moisture and unpleasant odors that may be present in the cellar with fresh fruits and vegetables.

Such tasks are easily handled by one or two medium-power fans, which are installed in the exhaust duct (very rarely - in the supply shaft).

Installing such a device will increase air exchange in the cellar

Single-pipe and double-pipe installation of fans depends on the area of ​​the cellar. As a rule, the second option is applicable in rooms with large volumes. Fans are built in exhaust and supply shafts; they can operate in one or different modes.

Owners of buildings can independently regulate the parameters of air outflow and inflow; with such devices it is easy to control humidity and temperature regime in the cellar.

The choice of fan depends on taking into account a number of parameters:

• air volume;
• type of output device;
• specifications.

Fan brands from manufacturers such as Electrolux, Vents, Silent, Blauberg, Systemair are very popular among consumers. They perfectly combine low price and good quality. These devices are equipped with functions check valve, they have control units, humidity sensors, and time relays.

When using a fan, you will need reliable electrical wiring; compliance with safety rules in this case is mandatory!

In some cases, other devices - deflectors - are used for forced ventilation. This option is good because using deflectors does not require electricity.

The deflector is a special device mounted on the exhaust pipe instead of a protective cap. The operating principle of the deflector uses the power of the wind. Inside the duct with the reflector, rarefied air appears, which helps improve ventilation.

Electrical supply to improve the aeration of such a cellar is not necessary.

Deflectors are produced by industrial enterprises, but some craftsmen make such devices on their own. The effectiveness of the deflector is significantly increased if its diameter is twice the diameter of the ventilation pipe.

Necessary calculations

The diameter of the exhaust fan can be determined based on regulatory documents: SNiP 3.05.01–85 - Commissioning Certificate and SNiP 32–105–2004 - Acceptance Certificate for Adjustment of Ventilation Units.

These sources are, of course, used by designers and builders for production purposes. But calculations can be made for small rooms by analogy.

For effective ventilation rooms with a volume of 16 to 32 m³ will require a fan with d=10–20 cm. In this case, the air exchange rate will be 1 cubic meter of air per hour of operation.

Pipe diameters are calculated in the same way as for natural ventilation.

Installation

Construction forced type ventilation - a sequence of steps that are taken in the installation of natural air exchange, with the only difference being that fans are placed in one or both pipes or deflectors are attached.

Combined cellar ventilation system

This type of air exchange is suitable for any premises with the most different characteristics. Combined ventilation system with installation of fans in the supply and exhaust ducts in demand for thorough drying of the utility room.

The system may include equipment that will provide the most acceptable “climate” in the cellar. Deals with these best automated system climate control.

This is especially true in wine cellars, which require a certain temperature and humidity to ripen and store wine.

In this case, a split system is installed, the installation of which should be entrusted to specialists.

If the humidity in the cellar increases, you can dry it using traditional methods.

Most easy method- just open the hatch in the summer. But the effectiveness of this method is low. It is best to use tried and true methods using:

• fryer;
• dry alcohol;
• candle;
• electrical appliances;
• box of salt, etc.

A regular metal bucket with holes can be used as a roasting pan. Burning coals or firewood placed in a brazier should be lowered into the cellar on a cable and kept burning for 10–12 hours. Compliance with safety rules is mandatory!

When using a bucket, do not forget about the holes in the bottom of it.

To create strong traction, you need holes in the bucket. Hot air will help disinfect and dry the cellar.

An iron jar with a lit candle is another option for improving the microclimate in the cellar. A jar with a candle is placed next to the ventilation exhaust pipe, without closing the hatch and front door. If possible, the exhaust pipe is extended. The flame of an ordinary candle is enough to speed up the process of aeration (air exchange) and eliminate negative aspects in the microclimate of the cellar.

They act in a similar way when using dry alcohol or gas burner without forgetting maximum safety.

To remove excess moisture from the cellar, you can use a gas burner

An alternative way to dry the cellar is less dangerous, but more expensive. We are talking about the use of electrical appliances.

To distribute heat evenly in the room, a heat gun, heater or some other device for heating the room is placed in the center.

A box of salt can also become an excellent remedy to absorb excess moisture.

You can check the quality of a ventilation system that has only been installed or has been in operation for a long time in the following ways:

1. Take a piece of notebook paper or printing paper and bring it to ventilation grille. If the leaf fluctuates slightly, then everything is in order with the hood.
2. Place smoldering coals in the cellar. If air exchange rates are poor, it may appear bad smell, condensation

By periodically checking the ventilation, you can avoid various negative aspects in the cellar

To increase the efficiency of cellar aeration, you can “work” with the valves by adjusting the air movement. To improve exhaust, the outlet shaft pipe is lengthened.

To eliminate musty air, place a fan (with a power of at least 100 W) in the cellar and increase the speed of movement of air masses, promoting better ventilation of the cellar.

Video: principle and arrangement of the ventilation system

An air ventilation system in the cellar is necessary for long-term operation of this room. Before constructing ventilation yourself, you should study all possible aeration options and choose the appropriate one. It is advisable to do this at the building design stage in order to immediately provide for the necessary communications. By building reliable ventilation in the cellar, you can be sure of the safety of food and effective use this utility room.