Indoor citrus fruits: types and care. Growing citrus fruits at home

Countries count South-East Asia, where a warm subtropical and tropical climate prevails. There all year round warm, with a slight drop in temperature in winter, plenty of light and quite humid. Therefore, citrus plants require a well-lit place both in summer and winter. Daylight hours all year round are approximately 12 hours; in our climate, the most suitable day lengths are spring and autumn. Most species are completely intolerant of even short-term and short-term frosts.

One of the characteristics of citrus plants is uneven growth. After a period of active growth, a period of dormancy begins, when young shoots and leaves stop growing, and the wood begins to mature. Only after this does a new wave of shoot growth begin.

Many indoor citrus fruits are characterized by their ability to bloom and set fruit several times a year. Flowering of grafted plants or those grown from rooted cuttings occurs almost immediately. Flowering of seedlings in nature usually occurs in some species at 4-5 years, in others only at 12-15 years, but it is almost never possible to wait for citrus seedlings to flower at home.

The optimal conditions for the development of flowers will be a temperature of about +18 o C and air humidity of about 70%. The flowers are bisexual and in many varieties are self-pollinating, but to ensure reliable fruit set, it is better to resort to artificial pollination using a soft brush. After flowering, not all ovaries remain on the branches; many soon fall off. The ovary can be considered complete if it has reached at least 2 cm. The fruits ripen, depending on the specific type or variety, from 5-9 months, and can hang on the tree until the next harvest. By the way, the color of the peel is not a sign of ripening. So, in the tropics, where there is no cool winter, the color of ripe fruits remains green. Orange color also does not indicate the ripeness of the fruit. If it is not picked in time, the peel may turn green again and then re-color.

Winter content. Species originating from the subtropics require a mandatory decrease in temperature in winter; this is their physiological need. Illumination and temperature affect the degree of plant metabolism: the higher they are, the more active the vital processes occur. The most difficult time for citrus crops at home comes in late autumn, when the amount of light drops sharply. It is through light that the plant receives energy through the process of photosynthesis. If little energy is produced (in conditions of lack of light), but a lot is spent (in conditions warm room), the plant gradually becomes depleted, sometimes “eats” itself and dies. In our winter conditions, even the lightest windowsill does not provide the insolation that the plant receives in its homeland, so in winter citrus fruits will always, no matter the lighting, suffer from a lack of light. To help them successfully overwinter, it is necessary to lower the temperature and increase the light.

For wintering, an insulated loggia or greenhouse with a temperature of about +14 o C and additional lighting is suitable (in cloudy weather - during the whole day, in clear weather - only in the evenings, so that the total daylight hours is 12 hours). Citrus fruits winter well in cool apartments or private houses. IN warm apartment you can fence off the window sill from the room with a third frame or film so that more space can be installed inside low temperature.

In the absence of a cool winter, citrus plants usually do not live longer than 3-4 years, gradually become depleted and die. The holiday lasts from November to February. In early to mid-February, when daylight noticeably increases, most citrus crops “wake up.”

Content temperature. Both too low and too high temperatures inhibit the normal development of citrus plants. In summer, it is desirable that the temperature be kept within +18+26 o C, in winter it needs coolness, +12+16 o C. Never expose the plant to negative temperatures.

Different parts of the plant (roots and crown) should be in the same temperature conditions. If the temperature in the root system zone is lower than in the crown zone, the roots do not have time to absorb required quantity water. Otherwise, the roots absorb too much of it. Such differences lead to stress and can cause the plant to lose its leaves. The temperature at the floor is always several degrees lower than at the crown level, so it is better to place the plant on a small stand. If the room has heated floors, there is a danger of overheating for the root system.

In spring and summer, it is useful to place citrus fruits on the balcony or take them out into the garden, where they grow and bloom beautifully. However, the pots need to be shaded from the sun. Through the heated walls of the pots, the roots get burned, and the temperature balance of the roots and foliage is disrupted.

When the plant is returned indoors in the fall, heavy leaf fall is often observed due to a sharp change in conditions. To avoid it, you should not wait for a strong cold snap and turn on the heating systems, but bring the plant in early. Then there will not be a large difference in temperature and air humidity. You should also be careful that the illumination does not drop significantly.

Illumination. Citrus plants are very light-loving; they should be protected only from the midday summer sun. Optimal location in the south - eastern or south - western windows, and in the summer in the garden - under the light shade of trees. In winter, it is advisable to provide additional intense lighting, with a day length of 12 hours. Without sufficient light, the plant will not be able to fully develop. Too much daylight in the middle zone, and especially in the northern regions, negatively affects the normal development of the plant.

A sign of a lack of light is the appearance of leaves that are too large and too green, and with a severe deficiency - yellowing and falling leaves. The result of too bright lighting will be the formation of discolored, too light leaves, on which, with a sharp increase in light without preliminary adaptation, burns, white or black spots may appear. There is a high probability of such burns in February-March, when during the winter the plant “weans” from the sun’s rays.

Watering should be regular and moderate. Citrus fruits are not drought-resistant, but it is extremely important to avoid systematic overmoistening of the substrate. Always keep the soil moist in summer and winter, but the top layer should dry out between waterings. When watering, make sure that the water reaches all the roots (it should go out a little into the pan, from which the excess must be drained). In summer, more frequent watering will be required, perhaps even daily (depending on the weather, the volume and composition of the soil, and the size of the plant).

In the winter months, when the temperature is cool, the frequency and abundance of watering is reduced. Keep the soil slightly moist, do not allow it to dry out, watering frequency approximately once every 7-10 days.

Water for irrigation should be soft and free of chlorine. Hard water is softened by boiling, sometimes acidified lemon juice (1- 3 drops per 1 l). The temperature of the irrigation water should be no lower than the room temperature or 3-4 degrees higher. During winter rest, do not water with too warm water, so as not to “awaken” the plant ahead of time.

Air humidity. Citrus fruits grow in regions with high air humidity; this must be taken into account when keeping them at home; spray the foliage with water or use a household humidifier.

Transfer. The root system of citrus plants has a peculiarity - it does not have root hairs, through which water and dissolved substances are usually absorbed minerals. Their role is played by a symbiotic fungus that forms mycorrhiza in the roots. The death of mycorrhiza leads to the extinction of the plant itself. It is very sensitive to conditions, suffers from prolonged absence of moisture, lack of air in heavy and dense soil, low and high temperatures, and especially when roots are exposed or damaged. Sometimes you can see apparently normal roots in a dead plant - this is precisely explained by the death of mycorrhiza. This is why citrus fruits do not tolerate transplantation well and can be sick for a long time after it. Citrus fruits should only be replanted by the most careful handling, without changing the soil or washing the roots under any circumstances (except for severe damage to the roots, when there is no other choice).

Substrates for growing citrus fruits. There are several recipes for soil mixtures for citrus fruits - they include peat, turf and leaf soil, sand, and manure humus. It is important that the mixture is slightly acidic or neutral (pH from 5.5 to 7.0). If your water is hard, it is better to use slightly acidic soil. However, preparing a mixture of all these components separately and adjusting the acidity is quite difficult. It’s easier to take ready-made soil for citrus fruits (usually called “Lemon”) and bring it to the desired condition. Before use, the substrate must be heat treated in a water bath (to destroy larvae, eggs and adult pests, pathogenic fungi and bacteria).

Small plants should be replanted soon after purchase because peat soil dries out easily, and the tightly entwined roots are easily subject to overheating and drying out. Then they are replanted every year in the spring (if necessary). Older plants can be left untouched in the first year and then replanted every 3-4 years. Large trees are not replanted, but the top layer of soil is replaced annually.

If you have purchased a small plant, which is usually planted in a peat substrate, under no circumstances should you change it or add denser soil - roots will not be able to grow into it. It is better to use a ready-made peat substrate for the first transplant, adding sand and a little turf soil to it. With further transplants, the amount of turf soil in the mixture can be gradually increased.

Large specimens are usually already planted in the ground with the addition of turf soil, so ready mixture you can add sand and more turf or leaf soil. It is better not to use manure humus in mixtures, but to replace it with an extract that is added to irrigation water.

And do not overuse loosening the soil, which can easily damage the roots.

Reproduction. Citrus crops easily cross-pollinate, giving rise to new hybrids with properties different from the mother plant. Therefore, in order to preserve the desired properties and speed up fruiting, they use methods vegetative propagation: grafting, cuttings, air layering. For industrial purposes, preference is given to grafting; it makes it possible to select a rootstock of the desired quality (for frost resistance, drought resistance, etc.). Some varieties have a poorly developed root system, and grafting onto a powerful rootstock provides the plant with good roots. In home citrus growing, grafting is often used for breeding especially capricious variegated varieties, but they require special knowledge and skills. Many popular varieties they are not required, they develop perfectly from rooted cuttings, while fully retaining their maternal qualities and flowering quickly (often still at the rooting stage).

For rooting, use sterile soil (peat + sand). Rooting temperature is about +25 o C, always in a greenhouse, preferably with bottom heating. The light is bright, diffused, at least from a fluorescent lamp.

Cuttings are taken from mature young shoots that are currently at the dormant stage; this is important. If you take a shoot that is at the growth stage, then the likelihood of it taking root is very low. It is optimal for the shoot to be about 6 months old, and it has already turned from angular to round. Cuttings are taken only from healthy plants. The shoot is cut into segments of 3-4 internodes. The top cut is made straight. The bottom leaf is removed, an oblique cut is made directly under this bud, the bark is lightly scratched with a clean thin needle, dipped in Kornevin root formation stimulator powder and immersed in the soil until the next leaf. If the greenhouse holds moisture well, then it is better to leave all the leaves entirely without cutting off the leaf blades. They will serve as a source for the cuttings nutrients. If the tightness of the greenhouse is poor, then so that the cuttings do not lose too much moisture, two bottom sheets you will have to cut it in half. In the greenhouse it is necessary to maintain high air humidity. Rooting lasts from 2 weeks to 1 - 2 months, sometimes longer.

Citrus seeds, freshly removed from the fruit, germinate very well, usually within a month. Seedlings are actively developing and are quite unpretentious. Using pruning, they can be formed into beautiful trees, which will also enrich the atmosphere of the house with useful phytoncidal substances. But in order to bear fruit, such seedlings must be grafted with cuttings of varietal plants.

Formation needed to give a beautiful and compact look to the crown. The best time for it comes at the end of the winter rest period, in early February. In summer, shoots that are too long and fattening should also be shortened. Different kinds and varieties of citrus fruits have their own growth pattern. Thus, lemon does not branch very readily, and it is quite difficult to form a compact, beautiful tree from it. The orange grows powerfully upward, requiring regular pruning. The tangerine's crown thickens quickly, and it is necessary to cut out some of the shoots growing inward. Kumquat grows quite compactly, requiring virtually no pruning. You don't have to trim the calamondin too much.

Young plants grown from rooted cuttings begin to form almost immediately, giving the tree beautiful view. Seedlings should begin to form at one year of age. If by this time they have reached at least 30 cm, the crown is cropped. However, even the correct formation of seedlings does not lead to the long-awaited fruiting at home.

Feeding. Citrus fruits should be fertilized only during the months of active growth, from mid-February to mid-September, and should never be fed during winter rest. When preparing for the rest period and when leaving it, reduce the concentration of fertilizers by 2 times. Fertilize only on a previously moistened clod of soil. For good absorption of mineral fertilizers from the soil, it is important to control the acidity of the soil. To assimilate organic fertilizers, be sure to maintain the beneficial microflora of the substrate by systematically introducing microbiological preparations (Vostok - EM1, Baikal, Vozrozhdenie). Plants respond well to foliar feeding.

You should not feed a plant that is heavily crumbling - the reasons for leaf fall are often not due to lack of nutrition, and feeding done at the wrong time will only cause harm. After purchasing or replanting a plant, do not feed it for 1-2 months.

And you should always remember the rule that it is better to underfeed a plant than to overfeed it. Nutritional deficiencies are easily corrected timely feeding, and excess fertilizer leads to root burns, improper development and often ends in the death of the plant. One of the signs of excess fertilizer is a dry border along the edge of the leaf and the beginning of leaf fall. An excess of one element often causes a deficiency of another; diagnosing this imbalance and accurately establishing the cause is quite difficult. But in order to avoid it, you should only use special fertilizers for citrus fruits, which must also include microelements. Their application rates are designed for the period of maximum growth. If the plants receive insufficient light or other maintenance conditions are not met, the dose of fertilizer must be reduced.

If you find a negative reaction to a new fertilizer, cancel fertilizing, wash the soil with plenty of water (passing it through the soil, but without removing the plants from the pot), at first use only the foliar method of fertilizing (a highly diluted complex fertilizer with microelements is sprayed on the leaves once a week ). Then switch to a different brand of special citrus fertilizer.

Physiological disorders associated with a lack or excess of nutrients

The leaves lose their gloss, acquire a yellow tint, young leaves are narrow and small, flowering is weak- with a lack of phosphorus.
Plants need phosphorus for flowering and fruiting, it helps resist disease. Excess phosphorus inhibits vegetative growth.

The leaves have grooves and folds along the veins, later they lighten and turn brown at the edges. Growth is delayed, some adult branches die off. During flowering there may be strong leaf fall– with a lack of potassium.
Plants use potassium to produce sugar, starch, protein and enzymes needed for growth and development. Potassium helps plants regulate water consumption and better withstand cold. Excess potassium leads to the appearance of brown necrotic burns along the edge of the leaf.

A deficiency of iron, magnesium and zinc manifests itself in chlorosis- on the background yellow leaves a green network of veins is clearly visible, growth stops, young shoots often die. Iron deficiency usually extends to the entire leaf; with a deficiency of magnesium and zinc, changes can be local. Chlorosis is also caused by a deficiency of sulfur, manganese and zinc, as well as an excess of calcium. Citrus fruits with chlorosis require additional fertilizing with iron-containing preparations (iron chelate, Ferovit), and driving rusty nails into the soil will not help the plant.
Magnesium (Mg) and iron (Fe) are important for the production of chlorophyll. Sulfur (S), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn) are "catalysts" that help in the absorption of other nutrients such as nitrogen.

Death of growth points, loss of natural color by young leaves, growth of defective leaves– observed with a lack of calcium and boron. Lack of calcium with hard irrigation water is excluded. Calcium (Ca) and boron (B) have important for proper water absorption, and both are important for proper cell formation.

Pests and diseases

The most common pests Cyrus crops are mealybug, scale insect, and false scale insect. Citrus fruits are also affected by aphids and spider mites.

White lumps in the axils, on branches and trunks - infestation with mealybug.

Plaques that look like droplets of wax on the leaves, branches and trunks, sweet discharge on the leaves - infestation with scale insects or false scale insects.

Uneven small yellow dots on the leaves, powdery coating on the bottom of the leaf, sometimes cobwebs - spider mites.

Accumulation of small green or black insects on young shoots, sweet secretions - aphids.

Small mobile light insects in the soil, jumping when watering - Podura, or springtails. They start when over-watered and do not harm the plant. It is enough to reduce watering and water with Aktara (1 g/10 l).

Small black flies flying above the ground are fungus gnats. They also start from waterlogging. The larvae live in the soil, but do not cause harm to healthy roots. It is enough to adjust the watering; you can shed it with Aktara (1 g/10 l).

Diseases citrus fruits arise from improper care and damage by various pathogens (which is also often caused by errors in maintenance).

Fungal diseases often affect citrus fruits on plantations or in greenhouses. Drying and blackening of branches - malseco - are of a fungal nature; gum therapy - gommosis, when a wound forms on the trunk from which a resin-like liquid oozes; leaf spotting and anthractic blight, when weeping spots spread across the leaf and subsequently merge; powdery mildew, when a white powdery coating forms on the leaves. The fight against fungal diseases comes down to establishing care, removing and destroying the affected parts of the plant, and treating with systemic and contact fungicides.

Sometimes a black coating forms on the leaves of citrus fruits, which can be easily removed with a damp swab - this is a sooty fungus. It does not harm the plant; it usually settles on the sugary secretions of pests. The cause of the sugary discharge should be eliminated, the soot deposits should be removed with a swab soaked in soapy water, and washed well under a warm shower.

Diseases caused by viruses appear as marbling and cannot be treated.

Causes of yellowing leaves: chlorosis caused by a lack of iron, magnesium, sulfur, zinc, excess calcium; lack of nitrogen; lack or excess of light; spider mite infestation.

Reasons for appearance brown spots on the leaves: non-compliance with the irrigation regime (drying or waterlogging of the soil); sunburn; burn from a strong dose of fertilizer; imbalance in batteries; fungal and bacterial diseases.

Cause of leaf fall Citrus fruits can be affected by any severe stress: sudden temperature fluctuations, hypothermia, overheating, overmoistening of the substrate, overdrying of the substrate, improper replanting, too much fertilizer dosage, prolonged lack of light.

Why is leaf fall dangerous? Depending on the age, lemon leaves perform different functions; with aging, they turn into a storehouse of nutrients, ensuring the growth and development of young growths. The loss of these leaves leads to the depletion of the plant.

Citrus indoor plants are not only a wonderful decoration for your home, but also useful plants, the fruits of which are rich in vitamins and have excellent taste. However, growing these Southern delicacies indoors requires special conditions, which differ for each variety of fruit. In this article we will look at how to grow citrus fruits in a pot in a city apartment.

Growing citrus fruits at home requires following the basic rules of caring for southern crops.

First of all, indoor citrus fruits need properly selected soil. For the base, you can take “floral” or “lemon” soil, diluting it with one part of foliage, sand and humus and three parts of turf. The structure will be low-acid, lumpy and loose, which will ensure free access of oxygen and moisture to the root system of the plant.

It is better to plant the plant in clay pots, which, due to their properties, are excellent heat conductors. In addition, such pots “breathe”, which will allow excess moisture to evaporate without lingering in the soil.

Citrus fruits in pots need to maintain an optimal humidity level - at least 65%. Fruits grown in humid air will turn out juicy and tasty, but if there is excess humidity they are at risk of rotting and falling off. Citrus trees at home need to be watered as the soil dries out: in winter this happens once a month, in summer - once every 1-2 weeks. On hot days and during heating season the plant needs regular spraying.

In an apartment, citrus fruits are most often placed on the windowsill, since this is where the plant will be provided with sufficient access to light and heat. If there is not enough lighting (for example, on the north or north-west side of the apartment), then it is necessary to provide the citrus trees with additional lighting using ordinary lamps with good heat dissipation. The temperature during the entire development period should not fall below +8 degrees. In winter, the temperature should be maintained around +12–15 degrees, and with the onset of spring – not lower than +18. Thanks to warm temperatures and high-quality lighting, the plant will begin to produce buds, the flowering of which will mark the proximity of fruiting.

Citrus fruits are propagated in late summer by separating the growing shoot from the main cutting. Such a shoot is carefully trimmed and stripped of the bark at the bottom, after which it is lowered into a previously prepared pot with nutritious soil, which is fertilized with moss, manure and a small amount of peat. The pot must have holes at the bottom, which are necessary for the drainage of excess water.

You can propagate by seeds and grafting, but for this it is better to familiarize yourself with the varietal characteristics of the plant, since even fertile trees can become inedible when propagated.

Citrus pruning is necessary not only to keep the plant healthy, but also to create a beautiful, round shape that can be created after the plant's second year. If the aesthetic side requires pruning shoots that are too long, then the vegetative side requires cutting shoots that are too thick. Shoots that grow inside the crown and interfere with the free development of buds due to their large number should also be removed. Pruning is done in the spring, all cuts are made at an angle.

If you are interested in how to grow a citrus tree yourself, then there are two options - using cuttings or from seeds at home. An apartment is ideal for this, since it can create conditions as close as possible to greenhouse conditions. In the best way Growing from cuttings is recognized, since this method will provide you with fruits in the coming years, while plants obtained from seeds begin to bear fruit in best case scenario not earlier than in 10 years.

Lemon care is simple: regular watering, feeding, trimming the crown. The only thing that may be difficult is the need to replant annually. lemon Tree into a larger pot.

Potted tangerines

Mandarin, like lemon, requires regular spring replanting. In addition, it is more heat-loving and picky about humidity levels. It is better not to keep homemade tangerine at temperatures below +20 degrees, otherwise the plant will quickly die. However, a clear advantage of the species is its faster period of entry into fruiting - fruit development is possible after 5–6 years.

Mandarin, in addition to the requirements for lighting and moisture, also needs regular feeding and treatment for pests. Unfortunately, these plants are very susceptible to aphids, spider mite and mealybug. Another problem with tangerine is the complexity of the flowering process, which often needs stimulation.

Orange

It is better to grow calamondin from cuttings or ready-made annual plants purchased in the store. Such a tree will begin to bear fruit within 2–3 years.

Despite the cold resistance, optimal temperature growing temperatures in summer are 21–25 degrees with a humidity of 70%, and in winter – 10–16 degrees with a humidity of 50%. This regime will ensure healthy and abundant fruiting for the plant.

Grapefruit

Homegrown grapefruit can be obtained from the Duncan and Marsh varieties. This type of citrus fruit resembles a lemon in terms of its maintenance conditions. However, grapefruit needs more abundant and frequent watering And maximum quantity sunlight.

Citron

Citron is a plant with very large yellow fruits (from 15 cm in length) and thick skin. For home grown Pavlovsky, Ruka Buddha and Mir varieties are suitable. It should be remembered that the size of the fruit needs high tree(1.5 m), which should be provided with plenty of sunlight and warm temperatures during the whole year.

Video “Growing citrus fruits at home”

From this video you will learn how to grow and care for lemon, tangerine, and lime at home.

Growing citrus fruits at home is often of interest to indoor gardening enthusiasts. Citrus indoor plants, when grown in an apartment or office, do not always produce tasty fruit, but they decorate the interior, refresh the air, and with their appearance and aroma help create a unique atmosphere in the room.

Many people think about how to grow indoor citrus crops in the house, but, not knowing the basic rules of care, they consider this idea to be futile. But citrus fruits in pots on the windowsill can please not only with their decorative value; if you choose the right varieties and learn in advance how to grow them indoors, you can also get fruits. Although most often orange or tangerine tree bears very sour fruit.

It is not difficult to grow a tree from a seed at home - if you take it from ripe fruit bought at the market and plant it immediately in a nutrient substrate, then after a month it will most likely germinate. Having created the necessary conditions By providing the plant with proper care, you can get fruits in 8–10, and sometimes even 20 years. Moreover, only grapefruits and lemons will be acceptable to taste, while oranges and tangerines are usually too sour. It is better to use such a tree as a rootstock and graft onto it one of the varieties specially created for growing indoors.

Among lemon lovers, the following varieties are popular: Pavlovsky, Novogruzinsky, Maikopsky, Genoa. All of them form compact trees from 1 to 2 meters in height; at the age of 3–5 years they begin to bear fruit, producing numerous, like Maikop or large, like Novogruzinsky, fruits.

You can buy the following varieties of oranges for growing in a pot: Pavlovsky (the most popular), Gamplin (the most productive), Adjarian seedless (its slightly flattened fruits, however, do not contain seeds), Pear-shaped Kinglet (with sweet pear-shaped fruits).

Tangerines take root most easily at home, the Kovano-Vase variety begins to bloom in the second year, Sochi 23 gives large fruits(80 g), and Clementine (obtained by crossing with the Kinglet orange) is known for the sweetness of its fruit.

Kumquat (or Fortunella) is also often classified as a citrus fruit. At home, they grow it or hybrids obtained by crossing this plant with orange (oranzhevat), tangerine (calomondin), and lime (limequat).

Where to put the tree

Since citrus crops are natural conditions prefer the tropics and subtropics, then at home they need to create similar conditions - warm, humid air, daylight hours of at least 12 hours. If we want to get fruits, then it is important to give the plants winter period rest for several months. So the growing season will last from February to October, this is the time when you need to provide the trees with an air temperature of +19 to +27 degrees, humidity at 60-70 percent, bright sunlight for 10-12 hours. And the rest period will begin in November, cover all the darkest time in our latitudes, and last until February. During this time, the air temperature should be reduced to +12 – + 14 degrees, and the humidity should be kept at least 55–60 percent.

The best place for citrus fruits is on a windowsill on the south, southwest, southeast or east side. There should be a lot of sunlight, but direct and very active rays in summer can cause harm; light shading should be provided.

The pot with the tree can be moved to the garden or balcony for the summer - Fresh air It will do him good, you just need to shade it from too active sun and monitor the air humidity. The pots are brought home when the air temperature drops to +14 degrees.

Only a change in place and the entire atmosphere can cause stress, so it is not recommended to turn the pots sharply relative to the sun; it is allowed to turn no more than 10 degrees after 10–15 days. But in winter, when the battery is located close to the windowsill, it is problematic to reduce the air temperature to the required levels, so many gardeners have to move the tree again to another room.

Features of care

The rules of care are based on the fact that tropical crops love warmth, moisture and light. Since the plant can receive nutrition only from a small earthen clod, it needs regular feeding from February to October. Like any indoor plant, a citrus tree will have to be replanted from time to time. If you follow the rules of watering, fertilizing, replacing dishes and soil, then even in our apartments and offices these aliens from tropical and subtropical latitudes will feel quite comfortable. And proper pruning will not only help to form a beautiful tree, but will contribute to long-term and abundant fruiting.

Watering

These plants really need moisture, but stagnation of water in the pot threatens to rot the roots, so when planting it is necessary to organize a drainage layer and check the water permeability of the soil. Watering is carried out only with settled water room temperature(that is, the water should be approximately the same temperature as the air).

The frequency of watering depends on the season, condition and air temperature. In summer, watering is possible every other day, sometimes even daily, but in winter, watering is limited to every 3-4 weeks; it is important not to let the soil dry out. But in the summer it is worth watering when the soil in the pot dries out by one third of the total volume. It is good to grow citrus fruits in clay pots - they not only allow air to pass through, but also regulate humidity: they absorb excess water and, if necessary, release it again.

Citrus fruits respond well to spraying, thanks to which the leaves receive the necessary moisture from the air, rather than evaporate it. In summer, in hot weather, spraying with clean, settled water at room temperature is carried out daily. And you can put a wet towel on a hot central heating radiator to increase air humidity.

Trimming

It is necessary to form the crown of a tree when it grows 25 - 30 cm, usually this happens in the first year of life. The top bud is pinched to stimulate the growth of the lateral ones, thereby limiting the length of the main shoot, which will become the trunk. Then several main skeletal branches are selected, and the remaining side branches are removed. Skeletal branches are shortened by a third so that they are overgrown with new branches. In the future, branches with fruits are shortened annually after harvesting.

The main pruning of citrus fruits occurs in February, when the tree has not yet emerged from the dormant period and has not begun active growth, but in the summer you can pinch the shoots, stimulating the development of small branches. They cut off the branches as usual for everyone fruit trees and bushes, above a bud growing away from the middle of the crown. You need to use clean, sharp pruning shears, trying to cause the least harm to the plant.

Experts recommend not allowing fruiting until the crown is fully formed. After this, an adult plant needs to regularly remove broken or diseased branches, those shoots that grow inside the crown or simply thicken it too much, and shorten shoots that, as they grow, disturb the shape of the crown.

Top dressing

A tree grown in a pot on a window is larger garden plants needs regular feeding. They are carried out only during the active growing season, the first fertilizing can be done at the end of February or early March, the subsequent ones are carried out every 2-3 weeks, the frequency will be determined by the condition of the plant and its growth rate. The first few times, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, which are necessary for the active growth of greenery, then the tree needs more phosphorus, potassium and other elements.

The basic rule of fertilizers is that it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. Flaw useful substances it is much easier to fix than their excess, which can lead to burns of the roots. The appearance of the plant will indicate the lack of one or another element. A lack of nitrogen is indicated by the absence of a rich green color of the leaves, a lack of potassium will affect the curved shape of the fruits and their premature falling, a lack of phosphorus does not allow the fruits and young wood of the shoots to ripen. Iron, magnesium, manganese, calcium - all these elements are needed by plants; their deficiency can cause discoloration or curling of leaves. By the way, when watering with hard water, you do not need separate supplements with calcium and iron.

Fertilizing is done by spraying (foliar) and watering (root) with special solutions. You can only water with a fertilizer solution wet ground, after the main watering.

The best organic fertilizer is an infusion of slurry, infused for several days, drained without sediment and diluted tenfold. A more saturated solution may burn the roots. Mineral fertilizers include superphosphate, potassium nitrate and ammonium nitrate. Usually people who do not have a dacha or household plot use only mineral fertilizers, bought in a store. They need to be prepared as described in the instructions, and then diluted several times with water before use.

Transfer

In the spring, when the dormant period has already ended, the plants are transplanted into a new pot, which is several centimeters wider and deeper than the previous one. Transplantation is carried out by transshipment after 2–3 years for an adult plant and after a year for a young one, but only if the entire earthen ball is entangled in roots. There is no need to free them from the soil; after abundant watering, the plant is removed from the pot, carefully cleaned of the drainage layer (if it is attached to the roots), only the soil that falls off painlessly is removed, and then placed in a new pot, where new fertile soil is added. priming.

How to propagate citrus fruits

Citrus fruits are propagated by cuttings, layering, and seeds. Strong plants can grow from seeds, but they will not retain the characteristics of the variety, they will not begin to bear fruit soon, and they may not bear fruit at all. They are usually vaccinated desired variety. Cuttings are cut 10–15 cm long with 3–4 buds in autumn or spring, and they are rooted in water or soil. If the branch is long enough, it is buried in the ground, after making a ring-shaped cut in the bark. If this is not possible, then air layering is done - the soil is simply attached to the branch using adhesive tape and a sawn flower pot.

Video “Growing citrus fruits at home”

From this video you will learn how to grow citrus fruits at home.

Let's analyze the flower grower's letter:
“I bought a delicious lemon, and in a month it dropped all its fruits and leaves. There is one branched driftwood in a pot. In general, the driftwood turned out to be very decorative, I love it, I water it and spray it, I hung a light bulb over it, it burns around the clock . It's hot at home, 28 degrees in winter, so the snag somehow reminds me of African saxauls. A very soulful plant. It seems to say to me: “I’d rather die, but I won’t grow with you!” If so, I think, now I'll teach you politeness! - I tore the snag out of the pot, didn't even shake off the peat from the roots, and transplanted it into a large bucket, made holes in it, poured half a pack of expanded clay into the bottom, and piled special lemon soil around it. And what do you think? This is the vile plant did not appreciate my care, there were no leaves, and there are no leaves, even though I feed it monthly and apply a special fertilizer, “Lemon” is called. Every day I spray it with water in the evening and water it in the morning. I came to the conclusion that this is completely shameless a creation of nature, and that it is impossible to be kind to it. Starting tomorrow, I will begin to apply repression to this snag: I will turn off the lamp and give it a suggestion: if in a month it does not produce a single leaf, I will tear it out of the pot and throw it away. This is not a plant, but just an ungrateful bastard! "

Dear fellow gardeners, do not make such mistakes under any circumstances!
I want to describe in detail the care regimen for citrus fruits so that you don’t have problems with them. And I will tell you about this using the example of the given letter.

Let's consider reasons for leaf loss in citrus fruits:
1. If you put the plant on the window, then you do not need to periodically move it to another place; Citrus fruits are one-stop-shop plants.
2. The most common mistake is that the pot of citrus fruits should not be “twisted” much by 180 or 90 degrees. In this case, the leaves turn yellow and fall off - the tree dies. Every 10 days you need to turn the pot 10 degrees (no more), and preferably counterclockwise.
3. When you find yourself in an unusual climate, i.e. When moving from a store or greenhouse to an apartment, citrus fruits can also shed leaves.
4. If there are drafts in the apartment, the citrus leaves will definitely fall off.
5. If you moisten the soil excessively in winter, it turns sour and, as a result, citrus leaves turn yellow and fall off.
6. If you plant a small plant immediately in a bucket, and even more so in a tub, then in a week the leaves of the tree will turn yellow, and after another 1.5 weeks it will fall;
7. Many people don’t know this, but based on my many years of experience, I want to warn you: under no circumstances should you place citrus fruits near a microwave oven. Otherwise, not only will the leaves fall, but the tree will die.
8. Citrus fruits lose leaves and fruits due to improper feeding and transplants.

If in winter the leaves of citrus fruits begin to curl, turn yellow, fall off, and the shoots dry out, then the tree drops unripe fruits. If a plant with fruits was purchased in winter, then it will definitely drop the fruits (especially if the tree is imported), and then part of the leaves (or all the leaves). When purchasing citrus trees in winter, I recommend removing them most fruits (or better yet, all of them), remove emerging flowers and trim fruit-bearing shoots by 1/3.

Before rehoming your pet, make sure it is needed right now. transfer. Roots coming out of the drainage are not a reason to replant. Carefully remove the top layer of soil. If you see that the top of the earthen ball is entwined with many roots, do not rush in this case either. Pass the stem of the tree between your index and middle fingers, tilt the pot slightly and try to pull out the earthen lump by lightly tapping the bottom. If it is easy to pull out an earthen ball heavily entwined with roots, and if it is autumn, do not replant the tree until mid-February.
If spring comes, then you can transplant the citrus tree into a slightly larger container than the previous one.
If the earthen ball is not strongly entwined with roots, replanting will be needed only next spring (regardless of the current time of year).
Teach: citrus fruits love not transplantation, but transshipment!

I do not recommend replanting citrus fruits in winter or autumn: the tree does not have time to adapt, and winter has already arrived. So it begins to wither and get sick in winter - especially if there are mistakes in care. To “reanimate” citrus fruits in winter, you need to pour previously prepared soil from under the oak tree on top of the old soil (in a layer of 2-3 cm) - the tree will quickly “come to its senses”.
As drainage, you need to pour 1.5-2 cm thick expanded clay onto the bottom of the pot.

Now about soil. The most best land- from under the oak tree. Oak has great energy power; The soil must be taken carefully without damaging the root system of the tree. Use part of the soil taken from under the oak tree to transship citrus fruits, and leave the remaining soil “in reserve” - in case the citrus fruit foliage begins to curl, turn yellow, or fall off (especially if this happens in winter). After all, in winter it is difficult to obtain this soil: in the forest the ground is frozen, and, in addition, there is knee-deep snow. This is where “in reserve” comes in handy.

You can also use the following soil composition for citrus fruits:

1-2 parts of rotted leaf soil from under the oak tree;
- 1 part rotted manure (horse);
- 1 part of turf land from meadows where clover grows;
- 1 part coarse river sand;
- 0.5 parts of hardwood wood ash;
- 4 parts lake silt.

In fresh, nutritious soil, citrus fruits develop a good root system.

For glaze Citrus fruits are completely unsuitable for water freshly taken from the tap (it contains a large amount of chlorine, which they do not like). It is better to water citrus fruits with settled water to which vinegar has been added (a few drops per liter of water); they respect it very much.

Citrus fruits need regular feeding. They need:
- nitrogen(ensures rapid growth). Thanks to nitrogen, citrus leaves acquire a rich green color;
- phosphorus(thanks to phosphorus, the seedling begins to bear fruit faster). Phosphorus is also needed for the ripening of fruits and young wood;
- potassium(normal and timely ripening of young leaves, shoots, and fruits depends on potassium). With a lack of potassium, citrus fruits take on an ugly shape and often fall off before they are ripe. In addition, potassium supplements help increase resistance to various diseases.

Citrus fruits should be fertilized according to the following scheme:

Menu plan for the summer months (apply from May to October inclusive):
- 1st and 15th - manure (100 g of manure per liter of water; use a two-week infusion);
- 8th number - egg shell (infusion in water for two weeks);
- 20th - blood from meat, poultry, fish (dilute in half with water and pour; then pour plain water on top);
- 23rd number - ash; the best ash from potato, sunflower or straw tops (1 tablespoon per liter of water for irrigation);
- 27th - pond sludge (150-200 g per liter of water).

Menu plan for the winter period:
- 1, 10, 20, numbers- natural fertilizer“Ideal” for feeding from November to May (2 caps per 1.5 liters of water);
- 5th - egg shell (infusion in water for two weeks);
- on the 15th - blood from meat, poultry, fish (dilute in half with water and pour over; then pour plain water on top);
- 25th - ash (1 tablespoon per liter of water for irrigation).

I advise the author of the above letter:
1. Read all recommendations carefully and correct your mistakes.
2. Since you planted the tree in a large container, do not replant it for three years.
3. Feed the plant according to the above scheme.
4. Be careful with the soil - do not over-moisten it.
5. In the summer, take the citrus tree to the balcony and continue spraying.
6. In the spring (somewhere in early March), add 2 generous handfuls of manure on top;
7. Turn on the backlight only at night, and not for the whole day.

Fruiting lemons, tangerines and other citrus fruits abundantly bloom, which leads to weakening of the tree. Therefore, flowers located nearby should be thinned out, leaving larger ones - those on which the ovary is better developed. Preference should be given to fruits sitting on short branches - fruitlets. On long branches, fruits grow more slowly.

It takes several months for the fruits to ripen. There are so many ovaries that there is an active shedding of young ovaries and fruits that have not yet filled with juice. The fruit fall can be so strong that the soil under the trees is completely covered with small fruits. That's why
It is recommended to regulate fruiting. Immediately after flowering, pick off a number of young ovaries. I do not recommend buying trees with fruits in the store. It is better if you buy only a flowering tree. But if, nevertheless, a tree with fruits comes home to you, then proceed as follows:
1. try to find out how old the tree is;
2. Pick all the fruits (do not spare them);
3. Cut the branches on which there were fruits in half;
4. Spray the plant more often;
5. The soil should always be moist.

And now - advice for everyone: do not expect the impossible from a citrus tree! In winter, citrus fruits most often do not bloom at home. Be patient and do everything according to the instructions. If you do everything correctly, your citrus pets will be happy appearance and harvests. Good luck!

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In crop production, citrus fruits remain the most popular among fruit-bearing plants. Everything about these plants is attractive: the hard, waxy leaves, the fragrant spring flowering, and the no less fragrant fruiting in autumn and winter. In home gardening, the most common citrus fruits are Lemon, Orange, Clementine, and Citron. The latter, by the way, is known for its original fruits, which are used in confectionery production, but are not eaten raw.

Oranges or lemons growing in pots are quite possible if you know all the intricacies of caring for these subtropical plants. Moreover, with proper maintenance, you can even get fruits regularly.

In addition to natural species, today you can purchase various cultivars and hybrids. Among them, for example, is compact (Citrus Limon Mejer), famous for its sweetish taste of fruits that appear throughout the year. Also interesting is (Fortunella japonica), which looks like a small tree, whose fruits can be eaten directly with the peel.

If desired, citrus fruits can be grown from seeds. But this method is suitable for the most patient growers; moreover, there is a risk of not waiting for flowering and, accordingly, fruiting. ON THE PICTURE: Citron (Citrus medica)

Features of caring for citrus fruits

Citrus fruits came to us from Southeast Asia with a subtropical and tropical climate. High humidity air, an abundance of heat without seasonal temperature fluctuations, daylight equal to night - are characteristic of the habitat of citrus plants. This determines the main features of care.

Determining a suitable location

First of all, you need to take care of the location of the plant. Putting a pot on the windowsill in winter is not the best The best decision. Cold air from the window, as well as increased temperature from radiators, negatively affect the exotic. The most suitable place for citrus fruits is a fairly warm place with intense light and high humidity. In spring, summer and early autumn, it is best to place the plant in a southwest or southeast window with softer, diffused light.

Soil selection

The basic requirements for soil for growing citrus fruits are good air and moisture permeability. The soil should be slightly acidic. Special soil mixtures are available for sale, but they are only good for the first time. Literally a year later, their nutritional composition is already depleted, and the soil should be changed.

Compliance with watering rules

It is necessary to provide the plants with regular moderate watering. In summer, citrus fruits should be watered approximately once every 2 days, and in winter, the frequency of watering is reduced to 5–7 days. Upper layer the soil must have time to dry out.

Maintaining Humidity

How tropical plants, citrus fruits require high humidity - at least 45–50%. Therefore, in winter, you should use a humidifier or maintain an optimal level of humidity using a tray with wet expanded clay.

Effect of temperature

The ideal temperature for keeping citrus fruits in summer is +22–24°C. In the autumn-winter period, before the dormant period - +16–20°С. Best temperature for setting citrus buds around +16°C, and for vegetation and fruit ripening - +22–24°C.

Unlike most others fruit trees, citrus plants do not require frequent pruning. But periodically shortening the branches will help form the crown and give rise to new shoots. However, it all depends on the species. Orange trees, for example, grow tall and require regular pruning. Since the crown of Mandarin is very dense, thinning it is necessary from time to time. Even more frequent pruning required by Lemon with its weak branching. And Kumquat and Kalamodin do not need pruning at all due to their slow growth.
ON THE PICTURE: Lemon Panderosa

A little about the rest period

In autumn and winter, with a lack of sunlight and increased dry air, the growth of citrus fruits stops and a dormant period begins. At this time, you need to pay special attention to plants.

• with a significant drop in temperature to 5–10°C and darkening (period of complete rest)
• with a slight decrease in temperature and additional lighting (a period of relative rest).

Period of complete rest lasts about 3 months. In this case, there is no need for watering, since the humidity of the cold air is quite sufficient. You can place the plant in the basement, on the staircase, in the garage with periodic monitoring of it.

Period of relative rest takes place under intense lighting with the help of additional lamps and reduced watering. The air temperature should be slightly lower, about +12–15°C, so the plant is placed in a cool, moderately heated place. In “home wintering” conditions with insufficient air humidity, it is necessary to spray. In the spring, watering is increased and fertilizing is gradually added.
ON THE PICTURE: Lemon during dormancy

Vaccinations

Grafting allows you to transfer some varietal characteristics of one plant to another, speed up fruiting and improve the quality of the fruit. Cuttings of fruit-bearing plants are used as scions.

All types of citrus fruits can be grafted. We should not forget to promptly remove shoots of the rootstock, which can stop the growth of the grafted cuttings.

Used for indoor citrus fruits budding (grafting with a bud taken from a cutting cultivated plant) And copulation (grafting by cuttings with the same thickness of scion and rootstock). At the same time, some varieties of citrus fruits require a strictly defined rootstock. So, Lemon Panderosa is well suited for grafting Kumquat, and Pompelmus is suitable for grapefruit. Sweet orange is used to graft oranges and lemons.

ON THE PICTURE: Tarocco orange grafted by copulation method

1. Buy citrus fruits with an already formed crown. Growing from seed will take too long and the tree may not bear fruit.
2. Be careful when choosing your location. The best option for citrus fruits would be a warm, well-lit place with high level humidity.
3. The dormant period is very important for the normal growth and fruiting of citrus fruits.
4. Not all citrus trees need pruning. This depends on the development of the crown and its density.
5. Grafting citrus fruits can increase fruiting.