Feeding, watering, formation of peppers after planting in open ground. Preparing the soil for seedlings

When growing and caring for peppers - both sweet and hot varieties - it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer softer ones, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates it is possible to plant crops in open ground. Productivity in this case will depend on decent care and favorable weather conditions.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse: watering, fertilizing, shaping

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse involves maintaining optimal temperature conditions, regular watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening.

Temperature. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28°C during the day and 15°C at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2°C.

When caring for peppers, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated by opening doors, vents, and transoms. In summer, when the outside temperature rises above 30°C, the glass covering of the greenhouse is sprayed with a chalk suspension or shaded using light wooden gratings.

Watering peppers is done 2-3 times a week at the root. Pepper is moisture-loving; 1-2 liters of water are consumed per plant. Plants are covered with moist soil. After the soil dries, the rows are loosened.

Fertilizer and fertilizing. Peppers are fertilized twice a month. For 10 liters of water, dilute 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate. After feeding the peppers in the greenhouse, water the soil with clean water, otherwise you can burn the leaves. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.

Experienced gardeners It is recommended to water the pepper from 9 to 11 am. Frequent and prolonged drying out of the soil, as well as excessive waterlogging, should not be allowed, since the plant reacts to both dry soil and waterlogging.

Pollination. During the flowering period, peppers are shaken daily to ensure better pollination.

Bush formation. In order to grow pepper as a vertical crop, the bush begins to form at the first fork. When molding, two shoots are left in the first branch, which will be central. Subsequently, two shoots are left at each node: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed to a height of 1-1.2 m.

Caring for peppers in open ground: watering, fertilizing, protection

Caring for peppers in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, fertilizing and protecting from frost.

Watering. The pepper is watered for the first time immediately after planting. The second time - after 5-6 days. In the future, it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are consumed per plant, then the rate is increased to 1.5-2 liters. 2-3 weeks before the last harvest, watering is stopped.

Loosening. The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the soil begins to dry out and crust over.

Fertilizer and fertilizing. Peppers are fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after planting the seedlings. When feeding peppers in open ground, use a solution of slurry (4-5 parts of water to 1 part fertilizer) or bird droppings (1 part fertilizer to 12-15 parts water). In addition, 150-200 g of wood ash, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of solution. When conducting mineral fertilizing In addition to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, ammonium nitrate is added to the pepper (15-20 g per 10 liters of fertilizer solution).

Frost protection. Heat-loving peppers are protected from frost with the help of temporary tent shelters made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing felt or other available materials. Portable film shelters are also popular. In case of severe frosts, the film is additionally covered with burlap or rags. Smoke and sprinkling are used.

Bush formation. During the growing season, pepper shoots that are too long are shortened. All unnecessary branches shading the crown of the bush are cut out. It is imperative to remove all shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after harvesting the fruits.

Harvesting, storing and processing peppers

Pepper is harvested in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the color and size characteristic of this variety), as well as in a state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Usually 20-30 days pass between technical and biological ripeness. Ripe fruits They crackle when touched. Peppers are harvested for the first time in mid-August and harvested every 6-8 days until frost. Before frost, all fruits are removed from the bush. They are sorted by degree of ripeness and, if necessary, stored for ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits become dry and red. You cannot pick peppers with your hands, as you can damage the fruit or stalk, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.

Like most vegetables, peppers have poor shelf life, and if stored poorly, the fruits will rot after two days. Subject to the right conditions peppers can be stored even longer than tomatoes and eggplants. Thin-walled peppers are best stored in the refrigerator. Part of the fruit stalk is cut off, leaving a small tip. The fruits should not show signs of disease, damage, cracks or dents.

Peppers are stored in plastic bags, or the fruits are put in boxes and sprinkled with sawdust. The fruits are stored for up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2°C, unripe ones - at 10-12°C.

Fruits are harvested for seeds in the phase of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stalk with seeds is removed. It is kept at a temperature of 25-30°C for 3-4 days, and then the seeds are separated. They are placed in a paper bag and stored in a cool, dry place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.

The fruits of sweet peppers are used in fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process pepper into caviar, puree, and vegetable snacks.

When preparing for drying, remove the core from the peppers and wash them thoroughly. Then cut the pulp into pieces measuring 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm, blanch them in a boiling 1% salt solution for 1-2 minutes, allow the water to drain and place on a sieve. Dry at a temperature of 60-70°C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper, you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh pepper.

udec.ru

How to grow peppers

Pepper is a real treasure useful substances and vitamins and one of the most favorite vegetables in the whole world. However, if at the height of the summer season it can be bought at any market for literally pennies, then by the beginning of autumn sellers are asking much more for it. more money. It is for this reason that all those summer residents and gardeners who have already managed to grow delicious cucumbers and juicy tomatoes in their own greenhouses are starting to plant sweet peppers with great pleasure. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this lesson. Of course, planting and caring for peppers have their own characteristics, but after reading the recommendations below, you can easily grow tasty and healthy Bell pepper on one's own.

Pepper contains a huge amount of useful vitamins, which is why it is so often found in the gardens of summer residents.

Secrets of growing sweet peppers: choosing a variety

Growing peppers is not such a difficult task as it may seem to unprepared summer residents. However, before you start growing pepper, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the variety and characteristics of the varieties of this vegetable.

Pepper different varieties differs quite greatly in the color and shape of the fruit.

Thus, pepper fruits can be elongated or wide, cuboid, cone-shaped, prism-shaped, curved or spherical. The weight of the fruit can also vary (usually from 0.5 to 200 g), as well as the length (usually from 1 to 30 cm). The color of peppers can change depending on the ripeness of the fruit: from light green to purple shades, and already ripe fruits can be colored red, brown, yellow and other colors.

Most often, the following varieties of pepper are chosen for growing in a greenhouse:

Before planting peppers in the ground, it should be watered so as not to damage the roots during transplantation.

• "Orange Miracle" is an early ripening hybrid. Characterized by cube-shaped fruits, bright yellow;
• "Alyonushka" is a mid-early hybrid. It has truncated pyramidal red fruits;
• "Winnie the Pooh" is one of the early ripening varieties of pepper. The fruits are red in color and have a short, cone-shaped shape;
• "Pinocchio" is an early ripening hybrid. The fruits are smooth, slightly ribbed, distinguished by their elongated cone-shaped shape and red color;
• “Swallow” is a mid-early pepper variety. The fruits are red, cone-shaped;
• “California miracle” - refers to mid-early varieties with prismatic, large bright red fruits;
• “Tenderness” is an early ripening variety of pepper with very tender flesh. The fruits are red, truncated pyramidal in shape;
• "Negociant" is an early ripening hybrid. The fruits are red and prism-shaped;
• “Nochka” is a mid-season pepper hybrid. The fruits are bright red, truncated pyramidal;
• “Elephant trunk” is a mid-season variety of pepper. Trunk-shaped and elongated cone-shaped fruits;
• "Astrakhan" - refers to mid-season varieties. It has drooping, cone-shaped fruits with rough pulp.

Growing and caring for pepper seedlings

Seeds for growing pepper seedlings must be sown at the end of February. Before sowing in prepared soil, pepper seeds must undergo the following treatment:

• disinfection in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for about 30 minutes, then rinsing with water;
• treatment with special growth stimulants, which can be bought in gardening stores;
• treatment with an appropriate antifungal agent to protect future pepper seedlings from fungus.

After the seeds have been processed, they are sown in small separate pots to a depth of 6-12 mm. It is necessary to germinate seeds at a temperature of about +25-30°C. The shoots themselves usually appear on the 4th day. After this, it will be possible to lower the temperature to +15-18°C for a whole week. This is done to prevent the plants from stretching out. A week later, the temperature rises again to +22-28°C.

Pepper seedling tools.

As for feeding, peppers grown in a greenhouse need to be fed for the first time only when 3 true leaves appear on the seedlings. To do this, you need to take the following: 30 g of potassium salt, 125 g of superphosphate and 50 g of urea. Mix all ingredients and dissolve in 10 liters of water. After feeding, immediately water the seedlings with clean water.

Experienced gardeners recommend that after the seedlings have 2-5 true leaves, they begin to additionally highlight them so that the plants are exposed to radiation with a large share of the blue spectrum. The duration of such illumination is 12 hours a day.

The second feeding should be done after the pepper has 4 true leaves. And when the seedlings already have 7-8 leaves, their nutrition and care should be especially good - it is at this stage that the flower organs develop, invisible to the human eye, on which the quality of the entire future harvest directly depends. In total, during the growing of seedlings, soil will need to be added to the pots 2 times.

Scheme of pepper formation (numbers indicate the order of formation of shoots).

Growing greenhouse peppers involves performing a procedure such as hardening. Pepper seedlings are hardened off 2 weeks before they are planted in the ground. To do this, if the weather is warm outside, you need to take the pots with seedlings to the terrace or balcony. At night, the seedlings are brought indoors again.

7-8 days before planting, for greater stability, seedlings can be fed with potassium salt. Experienced gardeners recommend spraying the seedlings with a solution of a natural plant growth stimulator a day before planting. This will allow the pepper to produce its own hormones that are necessary for one or another growth phase. Such care will make the plant more resistant to various diseases. Pepper treated with a special solution is much more resistant to various adverse factors and has better fruiting. As a result, the yield of peppers increases by approximately 40%, and the nitrate content is reduced by more than 2 times.

Planting and growing peppers in a greenhouse

Pepper seedlings can be considered ready for planting in greenhouse soil if they already have 12-14 leaves and bud development is observed in the leaf axils. As a result, healthy seedlings have a fairly thick stem about 25 cm high and a characteristic even green color. Moreover, it is necessary to plant pepper seedlings in an unheated film greenhouse when the soil in it warms up to +15°C - usually not earlier than mid-May. Moreover, the age of the pepper seedlings itself must be at least 55 days.

The soil itself in which pepper will be grown must be properly prepared. To do this, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are added to it, 40 g/m², as well as nitrogen fertilizers 30 g/m². Do not fertilize the soil for peppers with fresh manure. Such treatment can lead to strong growth of bushes and falling off of flowers. It is better to use compost or humus - 1 bucket for every 1 m² is enough.

It is necessary to plant seedlings in a greenhouse on ridges 1 m wide with a row spacing of 50 cm. Planting density in the case of pepper depends on the characteristics of the chosen variety. So, for vigorous varieties of peppers and hybrids, the distance between plants in 1 row is usually 35 cm, and for medium-growing varieties - 25 cm. For early-ripening low-growing varieties - every 15 cm, that is, there will be 10 plants on every 1 m². Seedlings must be grown in holes pre-watered with water - 2 liters of water per hole. After planting, the soil must be thoroughly compacted by hand and mulched with humus or peat.

Proper care of peppers in a greenhouse

Caring for greenhouse peppers has its own characteristics. The plant needs warmth and moisture much more than even tomatoes. That is why it is most advisable to grow peppers in closed and protected ground.

Scheme for growing peppers in mineral wool blocks.

First of all, caring for peppers involves timely watering. If there is not enough moisture, then gray-brown spots will quickly appear on the fruits, and then they will begin to develop gray mold. Make sure that there are no sudden temperature changes in the greenhouse, which are extremely detrimental to the yield of this vegetable.

Greenhouse peppers are a favorite delicacy of aphids and spider mites. To prevent and control these pests, it is advisable to stock up on karbofos, or better yet, keltan in advance.

If the greenhouse is unheated, then to grow medium-sized varieties of pepper in it, you can limit yourself to harvesting the resulting shoots and leaves on the trunk, as well as excess shoots in the middle part of the plants. Caring for newly hatched hybrid varieties It’s even simpler - they can do without such molding, you just need to tie them up in a timely manner.

Hybrids and tall varieties need to be tied to a trellis, choosing for this the 2 strongest shoots when forming the bushes, leaving 1-2 more for the first harvests.

For good development of pepper, even in the very initial period, you need to remove 1 lower bud. Besides this, everything side shoots, as well as the leaves on the main stem, be sure to be removed before the first fork, as well as barren shoots and any diseased leaves.

Pollination of flowers, or how not to turn sweet peppers into bitter ones

All flowers of this plant are bisexual, so they can pollinate themselves. But if some insects get into your greenhouse through the window, cross-pollination may occur - which is why it is not recommended to grow hot and sweet pepper varieties in the same area. After all, if suddenly the pollen of a hot pepper gets on the stigma of a sweet pepper, then the taste of the ripe fruit of the latter may be bitter to one degree or another.

You can experiment with the taste of hothouse pepper; this is not prohibited. Who knows, maybe you'll be the one to bring it out new variety, which everyone will like. Good luck and a good harvest!

VseoTeplicah.ru

Little tricks for growing pepper seedlings

Pepper came to us from the shores of Mexico. Since this is a southern plant lovers summer cottages wondering how to properly grow pepper seedlings. It can be sweet or bitter, but the main points are the same for all varieties.

Preparing seeds and soil

Preparation of pepper seedlings begins from February to mid-May. Pepper seeds lose their viability after three years of storage. Before planting, they must be sorted out and damaged and darkened ones removed.

In order to check whether the seed is suitable for planting, it must be placed in a 3% salt solution (30 grams per 1 liter).

Seeds that float after 7 minutes can be thrown away. The seeds that have settled to the bottom are removed, washed with water, dried and prepared for sowing.

The seed, pre-pickled in potassium permanganate and treated with a growth stimulant, is soaked in warm water. The seeds are laid out on a cloth and placed in a warm place, for example, next to a radiator. It is important to ensure that the seeds are kept in a moist environment. Pepper seeds germinate in 1.5 to 2 weeks. You can put the soaked seeds in a thermos with water at 40 degrees for 2 hours.

For proper cultivation pepper seedlings are used the following types substrates:

• Ready soils. Soil mixtures prepared specifically for peppers are the most reliable option for planting. They will avoid damage from infections and pests.
• Self-prepared soil. Experienced summer residents prepare a substrate based on soil, humus and peat. If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, do not take the soil from the area where nightshades were grown the previous year and water it thoroughly with a solution of potassium permanganate.
• Coconut substrate. Good for growing peppers
• Peat tablets. Very convenient option for sowing seeds. When transplanting and picking, the plant along with the tablet is simply transferred to a large container.
• Soil with the addition of hydrogel. Adding hydrogel to the soil will help retain moisture in the soil longer. To do this, the balls, already swollen in water, are added directly to the soil. If you add dry granules, when they swell, they can displace the soil from the bowl.

From proper preparation Planting seedlings largely depends on its future quality and yield, so the process requires close attention.

Planting seeds and caring for seedlings

To properly grow pepper seedlings, you need to pay attention to all growth factors:

• The soil.
• Humidity.
• Illumination.
• Feeding.

For growing pepper seedlings, special boxes are used, peat pots, plastic cups.

Craftsmen even suggest planting seeds in mayonnaise bags. The most important thing is to ensure good drainage in the container using sand and small pebbles, and don’t forget to punch holes in the bottom. This will avoid stagnation of water during watering and rotting of the roots.

The soil is shed with a warm, weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pepper seeds prepared for sowing are placed at a distance of 2 centimeters in small grooves, covered with 1 centimeter of soil and lightly compacted. To provide the seedlings with the most comfortable temperature (25-30 degrees) and humidity, the boxes with them are covered with film or a sheet of glass and placed in a warm place.

At good conditions The first shoots will appear within 10 days. When they appear, the boxes are moved to the light and the covering material is lifted to avoid the accumulation of condensation. The glass is removed when the bulk of the seedlings have leveled off and the first pairs of leaves begin to appear. If after two weeks not a single seedling has appeared, then the seedlings have failed.

You should ensure that the soil is always well moistened.

Water the seedlings with water room temperature left for at least a day. When watering, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening the substrate. To maintain comfortable humidity, the green mass is sprayed or an air humidifier is used. Avoid drafts and use covering material when ventilating.

As the seedlings appear, they begin to be illuminated, initially this is done around the clock using fluorescent lamps. To ensure sufficient lighting for the seedlings, it is necessary to keep the windows clean and make screens for light reflection using foil. As it grows, the green mass is illuminated in the morning and evening, so that the total length of the day is 12-18 hours.

You can feed the plants every 10 days after the first leaves appear using ammonium nitrate.

Complex fertilizing with nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus fertilizers must be carried out before planting in open ground. Pepper seedlings are quite capricious and in order to grow strong seedlings, you need to put in a lot of effort and follow all the rules.

Picking and hardening

There is a lot of controversy among gardeners regarding picking young shoots. Opponents argue that after it the pepper slows down its growth, wasting energy on restoring the root system. Supporters say that after picking, plants better increase their vegetative mass and get more nutrients.

Pepper seedlings are planted when the first true leaves appear, about three weeks after the start of cultivation.

Carefully remove the seedling from well-moistened soil, holding it by the upper leaves, one third, remove the main root and transfer it to separate containers with a volume of approximately 200 milliliters. There is no need for large dishes, since the roots can rot or build up excess green mass. Try to ensure that the root does not bend upward and is well spread out. The stem is buried almost to the first leaves, soil is added, compacted and watered.

Picking is also convenient because plants planted in separate cups can be easily moved apart. The pepper does not like to touch its neighbor's foliage and begins to stretch upward, wasting growth energy.

Get powerful seedlings resistant to external factors environment allows hardening.

About a month before landing planting material are starting to put them out in the open Sun rays, gradually increasing the exposure time.

To do this, the boxes are taken out onto the balcony or a window is opened. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not fall under drafts that affect them. negative impact and did not experience a lack of moisture. The described actions are not mandatory, but their use allows you to grow good seedlings and reap a bountiful harvest.

The seedlings are ready for transplanting after at least 60 days. Seedlings 70-80 days old give greater yield. The decision to disembark is made during a visual inspection.

Plants should be undamaged, have 10-12 leaves, and be 20-30 centimeters in height.

In mid-May, peppers are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and in early June in open ground. One of the problems that a gardener may encounter is overgrowth. To avoid this, when picking seedlings, you should cut off the roots and do not overuse fertilizing, especially nitrogen. If the plants do overgrow, you should reduce watering and lower the ambient temperature.

The pepper area should:

• Be well lit.
• Have loose soil.
• Be protected from drafts and wind.
• Have a pH of no more than 6.

Before transplanting, the boxes with seedlings are well watered to carefully remove the plants. The seedlings are transferred from the pots along with the earthen lump. Pepper is sensitive to damage to the root system. The seedlings are carefully transferred to the holes, covered with soil and mulch, then the beds are watered abundantly.

The distance between the rows is 50-79 centimeters, in the row between the peppers 40 cm. If the distance between the plants is less, they will feel uncomfortable and stretch out. The depth of embedding is approximately the same as it was before replanting.

Sweet and bitter peppers are planted in different places to prevent cross-pollination.

If there is a possibility of night frosts, the transplanted peppers must be covered. To protect against bright sunlight for the first time after transplantation, covering materials are also used.

The main troubles when growing peppers await summer residents at the stage of growing seedlings. After transfer to open ground, basic care comes down to timely watering, protection from pests and subsequent harvesting.

Growing peppers is quite a painstaking job. But if you comply with all the requirements and recommendations, the beds will delight you with an abundance of fleshy, colorful and useful harvest peppers

You can learn a lot of tips on how to plant pepper seedlings by watching the video.

MegaOgorod.com

How to properly care for pepper seedlings

How to understand that seedlings are of high quality and ready for planting in the ground

Any high-quality seedlings must look healthy, resilient, have a natural green color, sufficient quantity full leaves.

Seedlings of almost all vegetables are ready for planting approximately 50 days after planting the seeds. It reaches 25 cm in height and has 4-6 leaves.

How and when to pick seedlings

Usually seeds for seedlings are sown first in large quantities in large boxes, and when the sprouts sprout, the strongest, largest ones are selected from among them and planted in pots and “personal” boxes. As a result, the sprouts get additional area for further development and gain some experience in transplantation.

Picking is done with sprouts that have at least 2 small leaves. The seedlings are watered, and after a few hours they are dug up, the roots are cut off by about 1/3 and planted in a “personal” pot or large plastic cup.

How to avoid overgrowing seedlings

Overgrown seedlings are not very good, since they have a very large shoot root system becomes too developed and the soil available in the pot for nutrition will not be enough for it. As a result, instead of strong, healthy, stocky seedlings, the gardener receives elongated and frail ones.

Overgrowth of seedlings can occur for the following reasons:

✓ delay in planting in the ground due to cold spring;

✓ with abundant watering and fertilizing; v if there is not enough light on the windowsill.

There are several ways to prevent the situation:

✓ when picking, specially trim part of the root system to prevent overgrowth;

✓ use growth regulators;

✓ plant seeds a little later than usual. If your seedlings have already outgrown, then you should:

✓ stop watering and put the pots in a cooler place;

✓ when transplanting into the ground, place the long lower part of the stem underground, which will shorten the plant, and new roots will come from the stem;

✓ cut off several large branches from the shoot, root them and then plant them.

How to properly illuminate seedlings

Plants receive a sufficient amount of light only in open ground, being in a normally lit area and during long daylight hours, which is naturally possible only in summer. However, seedlings are grown starting from the end of winter. To help young shoots get enough light for development, it should be supplied artificially.

Experienced summer residents use the following methods at will:

✓ mirrors or sheets of foil are attached to the window slopes, and the light reflected from them hits the seedlings in greater quantities. However, this amount of light may still not be enough for the seedlings, so you should regularly wash the windows and take “walks”, opening the windows on a warm sunny day;

✓ the most reliable way to provide additional lighting is to use fluorescent fluorescent lamps located at a distance of about 15 cm from the seedlings. It should be remembered that the seedlings grow over time, which means that the lamps will have to be raised from them to the height of their growth. The duration of artificial lighting is 19-20 hours daily.

How to water seedlings correctly

It is preferable to water the seedlings with settled or filtered water. You can also use melt water if you are not tormented by doubts about its quality and harmlessness chemical composition. Each box, pot must have Drainage holes to drain excess water. The frequency of watering depends on external factors(sunny or cloudy weather), soil composition and the own needs of specific plants. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly how often seedlings need to be watered - usually the number of waterings ranges from several times a day to once a week. Vegetables they love wet air(for example, cucumbers), it is better to water in the evening, and those who prefer drier air (for example, bell peppers, tomatoes) - in the morning.

When to plant seedlings

Each plant has its own duration of the growing season, so different vegetables are sown for seedlings in different time, but usually this happens in February-March, for example, tomatoes - in the second half or at the end of February, bell peppers - in the first half of February, cabbage, cucumbers - at the end of March.

How to use peat tablet

A peat tablet is compressed peat in the form of a tablet with a diameter of about 8 cm and a thickness of about 3 cm, which has a small depression in one of the bases. Its advantage is its ready-made form, the structure of the peat allows air to pass well into the depths of the tablet to the roots, and its composition is balanced and does not require the delivery of additional nutrients.

Before use, the tablet is placed on a tray with the base facing up and filled with water at room temperature. After about 30 minutes, the tablet increases in height, becoming a cylinder.

Place several seeds into the recess of the moistened cylinder and cover the top with humus. Place the peat cylinder in greenhouse conditions, placing it under a glass or polyethylene structure (for example, an upside-down aquarium or a wire cap covered with polyethylene). When the seedlings sprout and produce roots, they should be planted in the ground or greenhouse along with a peat cylinder.

How to preserve seedlings if you plan to be absent for a long time

If you urgently need to get away for a long time long time, and you are planning to grow seedlings, then you can ensure a regular supply of water to the seeds or sprouts using the classic “thread” drip method, placing a sufficiently large container of water at a level above the boxes with seedlings and passing a woolen thread to each.

Currently, there is a so-called hydrogel on the market - polymer material acrylamide, available in powder or tiny granules that absorb water and expand hundreds of times.

The hydrogel can be added dry to the soil and then watered after planting. Then the soil will increase in volume and everything may fall out of the box/pot. Therefore, it is better to add granules pre-soaked in water to the seedling soil.

Thanks to the hydrogel, the number of waterings can be reduced by up to 6 times, and the soil structure will improve.

Hydrogel consumption is approximately 30 g per 1 m2.

alegri.ru

How to care for hot peppers?

Victoria

Usually amateurs indoor garden Pepper seeds are sown in February, in September-October the reddened fruits on the root are removed and the fruit-bearing plant is soon thrown away. Depending on the care and experience of the gardener, the yield of the Ogonyok variety can range from 5 to 15 pods, the Ram Horn variety from 10 to 25. With the method that I follow, you can get Ogonyok up to 30-40, and Ram Horn up to 60 or more pods.
I made my discovery by accident. I forgot to throw away the fruited pepper. Without watering or care, it stood on the windowsill. But in January, along with the increase in daylight hours (and the pepper senses this very strongly), the plant suddenly turned green with several buds. Just for fun, I started watering it, cutting off the completely dried branches. To my surprise, strong shoots appeared that went almost horizontally and began to branch. Their color was intense and bright. By May, dozens of fruits began to appear, and not just a few, as happens with an annual crop. By autumn, I had deliberately preserved the experimental plant and observed it for several years.
This way I practiced all the techniques for caring for peppers.
I was convinced that their strong root system, starting to vegetate in the first half of January, allows the plant to fully develop in March-May. What happens during these months cannot even be compared with how the plant develops in June-July and August, when, despite high temperatures, there is a decline in both flowering and fruiting. Neither care nor fertilizers can compensate for this decline. This is the first thing.
Secondly, healing power The spring sun brings into intensive development not a tiny shoot, as happens with an annual crop, but a thick stem saturated with nutrients. After all, in the fall, even a plant depleted by the harvest deposits nutrients to continue progeny for the next year.
And if we also take care of the pepper in the fall, feed it on time, it will go to “winter” full of strength.
In particular, one of the plants was placed in a pot with a volume of no more than 0.5 liters. Despite the cramped “living space”, the crown of the pepper reached half a meter in diameter, was strewn with flowers and fruits so that it threatened to tip over, I was forced to tie it to the frame. Up to 60 Ram's Horn fruits were set and filled by May, each the size of a woman's little finger, or even more.
The second experience was that I avoided the use of mineral fertilizers, made do with “available materials”, and worked out a waste-free farming scheme. In the fall, after harvesting, I removed half or even two-thirds of the pepper leaves, first of all the wilted ones, with a broken petiole, or curled ones. I trimmed the crown, making it compact, in the shape of a ball or ellipse. I squeezed all the trimmings, including other plants, between the walls of the pot and the earthen ball, sometimes specially taking out part of the earth. I handled the pepper rather unceremoniously. I could pull it out of the pot by the stem and inspect the earthen ball, trim off the excess roots. After all, in small pot they can “run around” many times inner diameter pot. In this case, the supply of food becomes difficult, which is why I mercilessly cut them off. And I put the scraps together with the soil in a pot: let them rot. At the same time, I diluted the “extra” soil with water and poured the resulting infusion over the cuttings of vegetables, filling the air voids. Often mulched the surface of the soil in the pot with grass cuttings during the growing season. The mulch gradually rotted and provided nutrition.
And with such a poor, but thoughtful diet, my peppers bore fruit for several years, until I lost interest in the experiment, having worked out everything I needed.
I was convinced that you can sow pepper seeds at any time of the year. Not only in spring, but even in autumn, before winter. Seedlings do not grow from poor lighting, they only freeze and develop later

Marina Stebeleva

This is exactly how it stands on my windowsill, among other plants. I water it almost every day, because the air in the apartment is very dry. I fertilize it periodically with universal fertilizer. From time to time I trim branches that are too long.
In general, I don’t do anything special. I'm happy with the harvest.

Plaxaya

I have it on my windowsill too,
and I water it when I remember
I don’t trim the branches, I don’t fertilize the soil,
every year a bunch of peppers ripen...

Gastezzo

Don’t forget to water it, your pepper =)

Andrey Petrenko

Plant care. During the growing season, it consists of inter-row tillage of the soil, manual weeding in the rows, and control of weeds, pests and diseases. Pepper is very sensitive to soil compaction and lack of air, so after each watering or rain it is necessary to loosen the soil. Simultaneously with loosening, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.
Weed control consists of cultivation and hand weeding.
The main pests of pepper are: Colorado potato beetle, cutworms, aphids and thrips.
The Colorado potato beetle causes less damage to pepper plants, but in large populations it can cause significant damage. Protection measures are similar to those for tomatoes. To combat Colorado potato beetle The drug Aktara 25 WG is registered on pepper - 0.06-0.08 kg/ha. Cultivation is carried out when the larvae begin to emerge.
Scoops. Controlling these pests is difficult because there are many varieties of cutworms and their emergence is extended. Therefore, it is very important to predict the emergence of larvae and carry out timely treatment. To more accurately predict the emergence of cutworm caterpillars, it is necessary to use pheromone traps or take into account active air temperatures. There are no drugs registered to control cutworms on peppers.
Aphids and thrips are less harmful, but when there is a high infestation of these pests, plants become depressed and deformed, which leads to loss of yield or death of plants. Fungal and viral diseases actively spread on plants damaged by sucking pests.
The main diseases of pepper: bacteriosis, viral diseases. There are no registered drugs to combat fungal diseases on pepper, so you need to focus on drugs approved for protecting tomatoes.
In recent years, pepper plantings have been severely affected viral diseases. Measures to combat viral diseases consist of mechanical removal of diseased plants, as well as heat treatment seed material, combating sucking pests. To guarantee the production of seedlings unaffected by viral diseases, it is necessary to buy pure-grade seed material that has undergone special treatment.
When growing seedlings, the drug Previkur 607 is used to combat root rot. The application rate is 15 ml per 10 liters of water. 2-4 liters of working solution are added per 1 m2 by irrigation.

Juno

decorative pepper (capsicum), nightshade family. Other names: Mexican pepper, capsicum
Place of Origin: Central and South America
Uses: flowering, fruit
Plant dimensions: up to 40 cm in height
Growth: fast
Bloom: summer
Care and maintenance
Temperature in summer
18 – 25 Temperature in winter
10 – 18
LightingLighting: direct solar
bright diffused

bright, but not sunny and only indoors; black pepper tolerates shade and partial shade; In winter we keep it at a temperature not lower than 18 degrees.
WateringWatering: Moderate in winter
In summer - plentiful
Reproduction Reproduction: in spring by seeds or apical cuttings
Air humidityAir humidity: daily spraying
TransplantationReplantation: annually in spring. Earth mixture: turf land, leaf soil, peat and sand (1:1:1:1/4).
Top dressing Feeding: spring-summer - once every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers
winter-autumn - without feeding
TrimmingPruning: in spring, from half to two-thirds of the length
Features of careFeatures of care: In summer you can take it out into the fresh air
Feels great next to other indoor plants.

Kazatschka

The weak point, besides dry air, is pests, for example aphids

Ekaterina Dzhuss

You can place it with other plants, but only on a lighted window. It loves moisture, but do not overwater it, otherwise the fruits will be tasteless.

​Similar articles​

​warm water​

​At the end of summer, when the nights become cold, the pepper should be covered again with film.​

​The following solution will help get rid of aphids: take 200-250 g of wood ash in a bucket and fill it with water, the temperature of which is + 50°C.​

​Manure activates the growth of stems and leaves, which occurs to the detriment of fruiting, so it is applied under the previous crop.​

​The roots of pepper are located in the surface layer, so loosening is carried out to a shallow depth (up to 5 cm) simultaneously with earthing up the plants and weeding.​

​During the flowering period, the following solution is used as a top dressing. For a 100 liter barrel take:​

​The next technique is stepsoning. No more than 5 upper shoots are left on the plant, on which the harvest is subsequently formed. The remaining stepsons are removed.​

​– indoor pepper, also called Mexican. Its fruits are incredibly hot, and the green parts of the plant are completely poisonous, so it is better not to keep such a plant in an apartment where small children live. If there is no one in your house who accidentally eats the bright, hot fruits, be sure to have capsicum on your windowsill, because it looks very impressive!​

Then transplanted into open ground.

1. ​To avoid pepper diseases, provide plants with calcium and potassium when planting in open ground.​
2. ​Sweet bell pepper is one of the most popular and healthy vegetables, which is used both fresh and stewed, boiled, pickled and canned. Growing sweet peppers at home is a painstaking, but completely doable task. If you want to get a completely natural product, peppers are grown from seeds.​
3. ​temperature is about 25 - 30°C. When watered with cold water, peppers may stop growing and fruiting time may be delayed.​
4. After planting pepper seedlings in the ground, it requires some
5. ​You can protect plants from spider mites using an infusion of chopped garlic or onion (200 g) and dandelion leaves (200 g) in a bucket of water.​
6. ​Good neighbors of pepper include basil, okra, coriander, onions, and marigolds. The last three plants are good as protection against aphids. But nasturtium can serve as a trap for aphids. Okra helps protect against the wind.​

​And remember about mulching, which will provide additional protection against drying out of the soil and inhibit the growth of weeds. It is only recommended to mulch peppers after the soil has warmed up, since this crop is heat-loving.​

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Where is the best place to grow peppers - at home, in a greenhouse or in open ground?

​5-6 kg of chopped leaves of nettle, coltsfoot, woodlice, dandelion, plantain;​

Original solutions

​You can do without pinching the main shoot, but pinching is a must, especially in a hot, rainy summer.​

​A compact bush with dense foliage is completely covered with small waxy peppers of bright red and orange color. Varieties with multi-colored fruits are especially valued - yellow, red, burgundy, purple and orange peppers grow on one bush. In addition, fruits can vary in size and shape: pointed, blunt-nosed, round, conical, pear-shaped, cylindrical, curved, even short and long. Flowers of different colors also add beauty, which appear not only in May, but throughout the summer, along with bright fruits, adding beauty to the plant.​

​However, further cultivation in a greenhouse is best suited for peppers, since this vegetable crop does not like ventilated areas and feels more comfortable in a windless, warm place, besides, temperatures below +18 degrees are undesirable for peppers.​

​Effective protection of the soil and preservation of nutrients in it - mulching.​

• ​Selecting seeds and preparing them for sowing​
• After each watering the soil needs
• ​time to adapt​

​The solutions are infused for at least a day. They must be mixed and strained before use. To increase the effectiveness of the solution, it is recommended to add up to 30-40 g liquid soap, but in this case it is better to look for organic soap, which contains a minimum of chemicals. These solutions are safe for plants and humans, so pepper can be sprayed at any stage of vegetable growth and development.​ Pepper's bad neighbor is beans. It is advisable to avoid their proximity, since they have a common disease - anthracnose (with this disease, soft black spots form on the fruits).​

Growing peppers at home to mature seedlings

​Additional flower pollination​

​10 liters of rotted cow manure;​

​Growing peppers outdoors requires some care. Pepper care involves creating the following conditions:​

What to choose: growing peppers in a greenhouse or in beds?

​Video about growing hot peppers​

​Video about growing peppers​

​Adjust the film thickness in the greenhouse depending on temperature conditions and create conditions for ventilation of the greenhouse.​

​To select more viable seeds, pour them into lightly salted water and select those that are at the bottom of the container. To disinfect, you should soak them for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, and then 12 hours in aloe juice. Seeds are sown in February in boxes with prepared soil.​

Spectacular, but burning “Mexican”

​loose​​. Usually pepper adapts to new living conditions within 10 - 12 days. During this period, the seedlings look sickly and sluggish, and practically do not grow. This is fine. The pepper root system, damaged during the process of transplanting seedlings, is restored and takes root in a new location. To help pepper seedlings adapt to new conditions, it is necessary to slightly loosen the soil in the hole. Such shallow (3 - 5 cm), surface loosening provides an influx of fresh air to the roots, as a result of which the seedlings take root faster in a new place. Regular loosening and treatment of the soil with dry mustard or red pepper (1 teaspoon per 1 m2) will prevent the appearance of naked slugs. Straw mulch also helps because it is tough.​

​Pepper can be affected by the same diseases as other vegetable crops of the Solanaceae family: tobacco mosaic, late blight, powdery mildew, various rots, etc. The causative agents of diseases are bacteria, fungi, viruses.​ ​Carry out in dry, windless weather by lightly shaking the trellis with flowering plants.​

​10 tbsp. spoons of ash.​ ​Temperature​ Popular among Russian vegetable growers

​If you decide to plant pepper seeds yourself, instead of spending money on ready-made seedlings grown by breeders, stock up on bags of seeds different varieties, prepared soil and suitable containers or boxes. Growing pepper seedlings includes hardening and germination of seeds, sowing them in the soil, daily spraying with warm water from a spray bottle and fertilizing (2-3 times before picking). Sufficiently strong seedlings dive from a common container into small pots.

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Growing peppers in open ground

​Peppers, like eggplants and tomatoes, are planted in a new place every year.​

How to sow peppers correctly? Planting seedlings in the ground

​to destroy the soil crust. If this is not done, there is a danger that the pepper root system will die as a result of insufficient oxygen supply.​

​Water the seedlings​​Perhaps that's all. Now, dear readers, it’s time to consolidate the acquired knowledge about growing peppers in open ground in practice.​

​The most common diseases of pepper are: damping off (“black leg”) and wilting disease.​

​Tying​

Pepper needs care

The barrel is filled with water. The contents of the barrel are mixed, infused for a week and used for watering (1 liter per 1 plant). The remaining solution can be fed to other crops.​

​The optimal temperature for growing pepper is +20...+25°C.​​indoor pepper Ogonyok​

​In cold regions, seed planting should begin in late February-early March. Because at this time sunlight not enough for plants, it is necessary to additionally provide artificial lighting and thus extend the daylight hours for the seedlings. After 12 weeks from the moment the seeds are sowed, the pepper seedlings will be ready to be planted in the greenhouse.​

​That’s all the recommendations on how and when to plant peppers. By following them, you can get good harvest at the end of the season.​ ​The bottom of a plastic or cardboard box is covered with film and crushed eggshell, is filled with soil from mixed in equal parts peat, turf and humus. Small rows are formed, the distance between which should be 4-5 centimeters, and the seeds are sown to a depth of 1-2 cm. Plants need freedom, so gaps of 1-1.5 centimeters are left between the seeds. The emerging seedlings must be provided with light and protection from direct sunlight. When the first leaf appears, you should pick the plants into the prepared container. After this, you need to water the planting with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, cover it and place it in a darkened room. After a couple of days, expose the seedlings to the light again, providing moderate watering without fertilizing. In good weather, you can begin to harden the seedlings by taking them out into the fresh air during the day.​

• ​Pepper plants need to be very careful in the first days after planting in the ground so as not to overdo it with watering. Frail roots may not be able to handle large amounts of water and may rot. At the same time, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. The best option is to moisten the soil in the stem area little by little every day, pouring 100–150 ml of water under each plant. The first real watering of pepper seedlings is carried out no earlier than a week after planting in the ground. ​
• ​Details Created: March 31, 2014​

Blackleg mainly affects pepper seedlings. To combat it, it is usually enough to adjust the temperature and humidity. Bell peppers have fragile shoots that break easily, so they are tied to pegs. And tall crops are planted around the beds, which create scenes and protect the plantings from the wind.​

• ​During the fruiting period, a different solution is used. For a 100 liter barrel take:​
• ​At +13°C and below, cover the pepper with film or special material. The appearance of lilac shades on the fruits indicates a violation of the temperature regime.​
• ​, known for its high yield. A bush strewn with red peppers can often be found on kitchen window sills– its fruits are used in food as a hot seasoning.​

​The photo shows growing pepper seedlings​

​This vegetable pepper used to not require any care, quietly growing as weeds in Central and South America. Perennial pepper bushes, called “false berries” by scientists, are still found in their historical homeland. It was from them that, through long selection experiments, the familiar bell pepper, a very whimsical plant with tasty, aromatic fruits, was obtained.

• Pepper - planting in the ground. When and how to do this?​
• ​If in advance​

​Before flowering​

​After planting pepper seedlings in the ground, it is necessary to provide them with proper care, otherwise all your efforts to prepare the seeds for sowing

Wilting disease is observed in mature plants. It comes in three types: bacterial wilt, verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt. The disease manifests itself in changes in the color of leaf blades, shedding of leaves and browning of stem vessels, which ultimately leads to the death of the plant.​

​Problems when growing peppers​​5 liters of bird droppings;​

​Water​

Why indoor pepper is convenient - caring for it is quite simple. In summer, it is enough to provide the plant with abundant watering and regular feeding, but in winter it will need to be placed in a cool room with a temperature of about +20 degrees and watering reduced. After harvesting in the fall, the capsicum needs to be transplanted into new soil, being careful not to damage the root system; with the onset of spring, the bush is carefully pruned to stimulate its further growth. Since peppers grow well and bear fruit only in mild climates in the absence of strong winds, they also love more high temperature and humidity than tomatoes, growing peppers in open ground is undesirable. You will be more likely to achieve a greater yield and harmonious taste by leaving the peppers in the greenhouse all summer. Moreover, in such favorable conditions It is not necessary to pick the peppers, as soon as they are ripe - you can wait a little longer until the fruits acquire a rich color and bright taste.​

​Growing peppers at home is a labor-intensive process.​ Planting in open ground takes place at the end of May. By this time, the plant has more than 10 leaves and several flowers. If the spring turns out to be cold, it is better to install a greenhouse made of metal arcs and rods, securing them with twine and covering them with a film that can be adjusted depending on the temperature - pepper responds well to ventilation. Planting is done in prepared soil, compost and nitroammophosphate are added to it. Peppers are planted in holes measuring 30x60, generously watered with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, which are then mulched with peat.​

​mulch​​Pepper should be watered once a week at the rate of 10 - 12 liters of water per 1m2 of soil. In hot weather, peppers need to be watered twice a week.​

1. ​Measures for the prevention and control of diseases consist primarily of purchasing high-quality seeds and seedlings, controlling pests and weeds, maintaining crop rotation, and removing diseased plants.​
2. ​The main problems that gardeners face when growing peppers are:​

​10 liters of rotted cow manure.​

It is advisable to water with rain or settled warm water using the sprinkling method. The temperature of the water used for irrigation should be +24...+26°C.​

​Hello, dear readers! So, the pepper seedlings have been grown, planted in the ground and have even grown. What's next? I suggest you learn more about the features of growing peppers in open ground, as well as what kind of care peppers need to provide to obtain a rich harvest.​

​You can also grow pepper seeds in a greenhouse if you provide them with suitable conditions: prepare moist compost for planting, maintain the temperature at +21+24 degrees and optimal humidity, equip additional lighting to create a 14-hour daylight period for seedlings. Caring for seedlings is carried out in the same way as at home - with light watering, fertilizing with fertilizers (preferably liquid) and picking into separate pots.​

Pepper diseases and pests

​Beginner vegetable growers will have to be patient and hardworking in order to achieve a good harvest from their seedlings. But where is the best place to grow peppers: in the garden, in a greenhouse or on a windowsill at home?​

​the surface of the earth is covered with film, peat or sawdust, which retain moisture for a long time; watering will not cause over-compaction of the soil, and it will be required less often. ​

​During flowering and fruiting​

​planting seeds and growing seedlings will go down the drain. ​

Aphids, mites and slugs are lignification of stems, falling of leaves, flowers and ovaries. Possible reasons: increased air temperature (above +32°C), lack of moisture in the soil, as well as lack of light. The barrel is also filled with water, the contents are mixed and infused for 4-5 days. Peppers are fed with the resulting solution (5-6 liters per 1 m2).​

​The watering scheme depends on the stage of plant development:​

​First, about the specific requirements. Pepper (both sweet and hot) is an exceptionally light-loving and heat-loving crop, very demanding on soil moisture. Pepper does not tolerate either drying out or waterlogging of the soil.​

​What varieties of peppers are best suited for greenhouses? Choose early ripening varieties with a height of 80-120 cm, then on one square meter you can plant from three to five compact bushes and get a lot of fruits. Low growing varieties peppers begin to bear fruit early - from mid-July, and continue to produce a good harvest until mid-September. In Russian climatic conditions, the following early ripening varieties take root well: Victoria, Zdorovye, Nezhnost, Lastochka, Winnie the Pooh, Kolobok. New F1 varieties are suitable for film greenhouses: Snow White, Chanterelle, Buratino, and for glazed greenhouses - Ilya Muromets, Red Bull, Othello, Yellow Bull, Elephant.​

Peppers in the photo

During the period of growth and flowering, which occurs at the end of June, it is necessary to feed the peppers. Two weeks after planting, they should be fertilized with mullein, during flowering - with diluted ash, and after 3 weeks of fertilization with fertilizers containing calcium and potassium. After the ovaries have formed, the number of fruits should be adjusted by cutting off small fruits to reduce the load on the plant. Peppers are harvested in July-September.

​During the period of flowering, setting and filling of fruits, pepper needs additional feeding. From June to August, peppers are given several root feedings every two weeks, using alternately weak solutions of organic and complex mineral fertilizers. In May and August, spraying pepper with sodium humate is effective. ​

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Caring for peppers after planting seedlings in the ground and before harvesting

​Pepper is watered at the root 1 - 2 times a week, depending on weather conditions, at the rate of 12 - 14 liters of water per 1 m2 of soil. If you have the opportunity to come to the site only on weekends, it is better to water the pepper at the rate of 16 liters of water per 1 m2 of soil and divide this norm into 2 days (8 liters per day).​

​Usually pepper seedlings are planted in the ground on May 10 - 30, when the threat has passed spring frosts. However, you can never rule out the possibility of frost and you must always be on alert, since pepper seedlings are very sensitive to them. If there is a threat of a sharp drop in temperature, it is necessary to water the soil with warm water (temperature about 35 - 38°C) and ​main pests of pepper​​Stopping growth and flowering, lack of ovary. Possible reasons: low temperature air (below +13°C), watering with cold water, lack of light.​

Caring for pepper seedlings in the first days after planting in the ground

During the season, 4-5 root dressings are carried out, which are carried out on moist soil. The interval between them should be at least 10 days. Before flowering - once a week, in hot weather - 2 times. The watering rate is up to 12 liters per 1 m2. Soils are most suitable for growing peppers in open ground following types: sandy loam, medium loam, floodplain and chernozem, having a light mechanical composition and a slightly acidic or neutral environment. Pepper does not like acidic soils.​

​Russian climate conditions cannot be called ideal for heat-loving vegetable plants, so pepper is usually grown in three stages:​

Pepper - planting in the ground and care. Tips for gardeners A couple of days before fertilizing, water the peppers a little, because root dressings must be done on damp soil. Fertilizer solutions should be warm (about 25 - 30°C). ​With insufficient watering​

​cover the seedlings with film​.​

Watering peppers in the garden

​Formation of crooked fruits. Reason: incomplete pollination of flowers.​ In addition, during the flowering and fruiting period, dry fertilizing with wood ash is carried out, using 1-2 cups of ash per 1 m2 of soil.

​during the flowering and fruiting period - 2-3 times a week. Irrigation rate – up to 14 liters per 1 m2.​​Pepper Formation​

​You want peppers to grow on the windowsill all year round as a decorative houseplant? Then you should choose to sow seeds and grow seedlings at home,

Perhaps bell pepper is one of the most common vegetables among domestic gardeners. It is actively planted both in open ground and in greenhouses. Caring for it cannot be called scrupulous, but some basic principles and agrotechnical features still need to be considered in more detail. By being prepared for the process of growing bell peppers at home, you can achieve visible results.

Very often it is the choice of the optimal land plot for landing bell pepper becomes a whole problem. Many farmers believe that a vegetable garden is also suitable for this purpose: the soil is regularly fertilized and is quite loose. However, there is one significant drawback. As a rule, a vegetable garden is an open area, the wind constantly blows there, and there is no way to protect the plants from it. Such conditions are considered not optimal in the case of bell peppers. So try to plant this vegetable crop in a place protected from strong drafts. In addition, it is very important that it is well lit.

Before planting bell peppers in open ground, you should carry out some soil preparation procedures. What exactly does a farmer need to do:

It is recommended to pay attention to one more nuance before you finally plant peppers in your garden. Let's say you want to breed several varieties of pepper at once. In this case, it is better to plant the sprouts further away from each other. The thing is that this agricultural crop can be pollinated during the ripening process. There is a risk that you will not get the result you expected. However, there is a way out of the situation. Divide your home plantation of several varieties of peppers with taller plants (corn, tomatoes or sunflowers). This way you can without special effort Grow several varieties of bell peppers in your garden at once.

Video “Growing and caring for peppers”

From the video you will learn how to properly grow and care for peppers.

Feeding seedlings

It is necessary to feed the pepper, but you need to clearly understand what kind of soil you are dealing with. Your choice of fertilizers should depend on its characteristics. Let's say you decide to plant peppers in a greenhouse and fill it with regular garden soil. In this case, be prepared for the fact that you will need to replenish the soil every 10 days. If you approached this issue more thoroughly, using a specially prepared earthen mixture for planting bell pepper seedlings in it, it will be sufficient to carry out no more than three stages of fertilization in the future.

How do experienced gardeners get out of this situation?

Many people prefer exclusively natural fertilizers. Between the rows of seedlings, shallow trenches are dug into which manure or bird droppings are poured. When can this type of procedure be carried out? It is advisable to do this after 2-3 leaves bloom on the sprouts. When the bell pepper seedlings grow noticeably, they need to be plucked and then next stage fertilizing the soil. You can use either special complex mixtures, dry ash or compost tea.

Feeding after planting

You can decide for an infinitely long time optimal place for planting bell peppers. But your efforts to grow a bountiful pepper harvest don't have to end there. Special attention It is worth paying attention to regularly feeding the soil with mineral fertilizers. Moreover, this must be done not just once, but during the development of the plant and the ripening of fruits. What kind of fertilizers are suitable for bell peppers, and in what proportions should they be added to the soil?

Among the variety of modern fertilizers, urea and phosphates are the most common for this agricultural crop. But that's not all.

Today, many summer residents use potassium and phosphorus fertilizers for feeding purposes, as well as folk remedies(cow dung or bird droppings). It is best to feed peppers with natural mixtures.

For example, cow manure is recommended to be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. As for bird droppings, the proportions here will be 1:12. These types of fertilizers are considered the most universal for bell peppers.

If you prefer to feed a vegetable plant as a disease prevention and in order to strengthen the vegetative part of the crop, you can safely use universal fertilizers. However, if for some reason you did not feed the soil in advance, or did so, but noticed certain deterioration in appearance bell pepper seedlings, you need to act immediately. First, identify the problem and then promptly fix it. For example, if your plant is not sufficiently saturated with nitrogen, over time the vegetative mass begins to turn yellow. In the case when burns appear on the edges of the leaves of seedlings, the cause in most cases is considered to be a deficiency of potassium in the soil. It happens that bell pepper bushes acquire a purple tint: this means that it is necessary to add phosphorus fertilizers to the substrate.

Stimulation of fruiting

To prevent such problems from occurring, it is worth supporting seedlings at all stages of their development. There are universal ones for this natural fertilizers, among which nettle tea stands out. How to cook it? It is necessary to chop the stems of this plant, and then fill some barrel or container with them (about 2/3). The greenery is filled with water. It is advisable to leave the resulting mixture in a dark place for effective fermentation. At the end of the process, which will take about a week, the solution is used to fertilize the soil, first diluting it with water in a ratio of 1:10. If you wish, you can feed the soil to obtain a more generous harvest of bell peppers using a high concentration of nettle solution. To do this, you need to add dandelion, woodlice, plantain and other herbal plants.

Stimulating fruiting is not a bad thing, but it is not advisable to overdo it. With excessively large volumes of fertilizers and too frequent fertilizing, the branched part of the bell pepper may become woody. In addition, sometimes you can get the opposite result: when the soil is oversaturated with fertilizers, the fruits grow almost empty inside, falling off long before the end of the ripening period.

Features of watering

Varieties of bell peppers for open ground do not require too much care. However, when it comes to hydration, mistakes in this matter are unacceptable, as they can cost you dearly. Interestingly, it is recommended to water pepper seedlings regularly; you should not let the soil dry out. But you shouldn’t create excessive dampness either.

When growing and caring for peppers - both sweet and hot varieties - it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer milder, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates it is possible to plant crops in open ground. Productivity in this case will depend on decent care and favorable weather conditions.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse: watering, fertilizing, shaping

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse involves maintaining optimal temperature conditions, regular watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening.

Temperature regime. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28°C during the day and 15°C at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2°C.

When caring for peppers, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated by opening doors, vents, and transoms. In summer, when the outside temperature rises above 30°C, the glass covering of the greenhouse is sprayed with a chalk suspension or shaded using light wooden gratings.

Watering peppers is done 2-3 times a week at the root. Pepper is moisture-loving; 1-2 liters of water are consumed per plant. Plants are covered with moist soil. After the soil dries, the rows are loosened.

and fertilizing. Peppers are fertilized twice a month. For 10 liters of water, dilute 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate. After feeding the peppers in the greenhouse, water the soil with clean water, otherwise you can burn the leaves. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering peppers from 9 to 11 am. Frequent and prolonged drying out of the soil, as well as excessive waterlogging, should not be allowed, since the plant reacts to both dry soil and waterlogging.

Pollination. During the flowering period, peppers are shaken daily to ensure better pollination.

Bush formation. In order to grow pepper as a vertical crop, the bush begins to form at the first fork. When molding, two shoots are left in the first branch, which will be central. Subsequently, two shoots are left at each node: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed to a height of 1-1.2 m.

Caring for peppers in open ground: watering, fertilizing, protection

Caring for peppers in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, fertilizing and protecting from frost.

Watering. The pepper is watered for the first time immediately after planting. The second time - after 5-6 days. In the future, it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are consumed per plant, then the rate is increased to 1.5-2 liters. 2-3 weeks before the last harvest, watering is stopped.

Loosening. The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the soil begins to dry out and crust over.

Fertilizer and fertilizing. Peppers are fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after planting the seedlings. When feeding peppers in open ground, use a solution of slurry (4-5 parts of water to 1 part fertilizer) or bird droppings (1 part fertilizer to 12-15 parts water). In addition, 150-200 g of wood ash, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of solution. When carrying out mineral fertilizing, in addition to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, ammonium nitrate is added under the pepper (15-20 g per 10 liters of fertilizer solution).

Frost protection. Heat-loving peppers are protected from frost with the help of temporary tent shelters made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing felt or other available materials. Portable film shelters are also popular. In case of severe frosts, the film is additionally covered with burlap or rags. Smoke and sprinkling are used.

Bush formation. During the growing season, pepper shoots that are too long are shortened. All unnecessary branches shading the crown of the bush are cut out. It is imperative to remove all shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after harvesting the fruits.

Harvesting, storing and processing peppers

Pepper is harvested in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the color and size characteristic of a given variety), as well as in a state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Usually 20-30 days pass between technical and biological ripeness. Ripe fruits crackle when touched. Peppers are harvested for the first time in mid-August and harvested every 6-8 days until frost. Before frost, all fruits are removed from the bush. They are sorted by degree of ripeness and, if necessary, stored for ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits become dry and red. You cannot pick peppers with your hands, as you can damage the fruit or stalk, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.

Like most vegetables, peppers have poor shelf life, and if stored poorly, the fruits will rot after two days. Under the right conditions, peppers can be stored even longer than tomatoes and eggplants. Thin-walled peppers are best stored in the refrigerator. Part of the fruit stalk is cut off, leaving a small tip. The fruits should not show signs of disease, damage, cracks or dents.

Peppers are stored in plastic bags, or the fruits are placed in boxes and sprinkled with sawdust. The fruits are stored for up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2°C, unripe ones - at 10-12°C.

Fruits are harvested for seeds in the phase of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stalk with seeds is removed. It is kept at a temperature of 25-30°C for 3-4 days, and then the seeds are separated. They are placed in a paper bag and stored in a cool, dry place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.

The fruits are consumed fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process pepper into caviar, puree, and vegetable snacks.

When preparing for drying, remove the core from the peppers and wash them thoroughly. Then cut the pulp into pieces measuring 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm, blanch them in a boiling 1% salt solution for 1-2 minutes, allow the water to drain and place on a sieve. Dry at a temperature of 60-70°C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper, you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh pepper.

Pepper is one type of vegetable that no holiday can do without. Bell peppers are always present on the table in the form of slices or a hot dish, and sweet peppers are present on the winter table in the form of preparations for the winter. But few people know how grow peppers in open ground on summer cottage. This vegetable is very finicky and requires good care, but every novice gardener dreams of trying to grow it on his own plot.

Bell pepper and sweet pepper seedlings

Growing such a vegetable has its pros and cons; if there is an error with watering, sudden changes in temperature, or improper transplantation, the yield decreases to almost zero.

Damaged plants will no longer produce what they want. harvest in a short summer, since without tying there will be no pollination, and without this the plant will receive less nutrition and thus will not produce the long-awaited harvest in the fall.

But in order for it to grow and please you with its harvest, you need to plant it very early and ensure seedlings and development without stress and temperature changes. This the most important rule when growing sweet peppers in open ground.

The most important points in sowing bell peppers are:

• Preparing seeds for sowing;
• preparing soil for sowing peppers;
• sowing seeds;
• picking peppers.

It is better to consider each procedure separately so as not to miss or make mistakes.

Preparing seeds for seedlings for growing peppers in open ground

Purchased seeds need to be examined and any frail or damaged ones removed. Good seeds it is necessary to treat a fungal infection.

To do this, you need to put the seeds in gauze, like in a bag, and place them in a thick solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. After this procedure, rinse with warm, running water.

There is one more good way For good shoots bell pepper - this is Eline's solution. You need to place a gauze bag in a solution of 1 drop of Eline, diluted with 1 liter of water and leave for one day.

After all these procedures, plant the seeds on a damp cloth and cover with wet gauze. In this form, the seeds should be placed in a warm place for one week, but if the seeds have not swelled, you can wait another week.

The main thing is not to leave the seeds dry, they must be moistened, otherwise the seeds will dry out and disappear.

Preparing soil for planting

For sowing, you can buy ready-made soil in a specialized store. and only add one fifth of the washed sand.

You don’t need to add anything to the finished soil, because it already contains:

High ground;

• deoxidizing additives;
• mineral fertilizer;
• Hesminic substances;
• sand;
• agropermit.

To understand why the soil needs them, it is better to know all the additives in detail.

The raised soil is practically germ-free and absorbs moisture well; all plants cannot do without this additive.

Deoxidizing additives are needed to remove high acidity from topsoil.

Mineral fertilizer provides mineral nutrition and promotes plant growth.

Hesminic substances are needed to stimulate root formation, as well as plant stability.

Sand reduces soil shrinkage during long-term cultivation of plants. Usually sand is needed in large quantities for home flowers in pots.

Agropermite saturates the roots with oxygen and promotes their good growth and nourishes them with substances necessary for growth.

Experienced gardeners do not buy soil, but make it themselves at home. To do this, you only need two parts humus, one part sand and two parts peat. Mix everything well and heat in the oven for about one hour. In this way, the soil will be ready for planting seeds.

Sowing seeds

Seed ripening occurs 10 or 14 days after germination, and it is better to plant seedlings when it is 60 days old. Therefore, it is better to sow in mid-February when the daylight hours are still short.

Before you start planting, you need to rinse the die well in a potassium permanganate solution, and then fill it with the prepared soil mixture. Lightly compact the soil so that the bowl is two centimeters higher than the soil.

Make a hole and carefully spread the seeds at a distance of 1.5 cm. Then cover the seeds with the prepared soil and compact them.

Pour warm water over it, but be careful not to wash out the seeds. To prevent moisture from evaporating, you need to close it with a special lid, and if you don’t have such a lid, you can use a regular plastic bag.

The seeds need to be placed in a warm place where the air temperature is about 17 degrees. Be sure to water with warm water and not let the soil dry out, but you also shouldn’t overwater it.

Be sure to watch the pepper seedlings so that they do not bend. To avoid this, you need to turn one by one towards the sun. You can also do it over seedlings

How to bake correctly

To reduce the risk of root rot damage to plants, peppers are replanted when the plant has two leaves.

But it is better to replant after 4 weeks, when the seedlings are stronger and more resistant to stressful conditions and the stems of the pepper seedlings are already stronger.

Before transplanting the seedlings, you need to water it well and wait for the excess water to drain.

It grows and develops more slowly than tomatoes and therefore it is better to transplant it into separate small pots.

Fill half of the pot with pre-prepared soil, make a hole and place the pepper seedlings, cover with soil and lightly compact. Carefully pour warm water, holding the stems, and if the soil has settled, then add prepared soil, but not too much. The peppers should be halfway in the pot, not completely covered.

Place such seedlings in a warm and well-lit room.

How to feed seedlings

Caring for seedlings should begin after the peppers are transplanted into open ground at their summer cottage.

First bait is given after two weeks after diving and two weeks after the first feeding. While the plant is young, it is better and very convenient to apply fertilizer in liquid form. You can buy it at a flower shop and it is best to choose:

• Agricola;
• Get stronger;
• Fertika;
• Luxury;
• Mortar.

How to properly dilute the fertilizer for peppers will be written in the instructions for use.

Two weeks before planting bell peppers in regular soil at a summer cottage, you need to harden the seedlings in the open fresh air.

But there is one necessary part to consider open air: direct sunlight should not fall on the peppers, but there should also be no cold or strong wind.

The best option for hardening is a closed balcony with a non-sunny side.

Grow seedlings in peat tablets

There is one more great way for pepper seedlings, these are peat tablets. Peat tablets give excellent results, and a plant that experiences stress during a dive can no longer be afraid, so like this procedure with a peat tablet no need to do it.

The peat tablet contains all the necessary additives for the development of pepper and with the help of such a wonderful tablet, even novice gardeners can grow good seedlings.

The seedlings still need to be grown in separate pots, so you can take peat tablets with a diameter of three centimeters.

Place on a pallet required quantity peat tablets and fill them with warm water. As the tablets swell, they enlarge and take on the shape of a cup.

As soon as peat tablet will swell to the right size and stops absorbing water, you need to drain the excess water and make a small hole in the cups

Pepper seeds should be prepared in the same way as when sown in the soil. This must also be done in advance. The seeds must be carefully placed in the holes and sprinkled with prepared soil. Cover the tray with a lid or put on a plastic bag.

Pepper planting and care in open ground

Peppers do not like cold and heavy soil, and if the site has clay soil, then it is better to fertilize bell peppers in open ground with peat and humus.

The soil needs to be dug well onto the bayonet of a shovel and level it well with a rake so that there are no large lumps. After this, make not very deep holes for planting, but you don’t need to make very frequent holes either.

Before planting, you need to put a little bit in each hole. mineral fertilizer, which will contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. This composition must be mixed well until smooth.

Carefully remove the seedling from the pot, being careful not to damage the root system of the pepper. Place the seedlings in the hole and cover half hole in the ground. You need to fill it up so that the entire root system of the seedling is covered.

Water generously with warm water and the water will be absorbed, cover the entire hole with dry soil.

If the plant is tall and requires staking, then it is worth tying the peppers to a special support. If the nights are still cold, then you need to cover the sweet peppers with polyethylene meadows, but you cannot cover them with woven covering material.

Caring for peppers in open ground

For outdoor cultivation to be carried out proper care there are four rules:

1. Feeding.
2. Watering.
3. Prophet.
4. Garters.

Feeding. During growth and cultivation, it is necessary to feed three times. The first feeding after 10 days after planting in ordinary soil can be fed with ordinary manure.

The second feeding is done before flowering. Feed with woodgrass or superphosphate. To do this, dilute potassium humate with 10 liters of water. Pour this solution over the peppers.

The third feeding should occur two weeks after flowering. Feed the tree hall. You can also feed sweet peppers with nettle solution. To do this, you need to cut the nettles into small pieces and add warm water. Leave this solution for several days, and then pour over the peppers.

Watering. Sweet peppers love moisture, but too much pepper is very harmful. Therefore, you need to water sweet peppers as the soil dries out.

Prophet. Light and fluffy soil gives good growth plants. It is imperative to ensure that the peppers are not overgrown with grass, and be sure to loosen the soil near the peppers.