MDF panels are attached to the wall. Do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels on the wall is a practical and effective way to decorate a room

MDF is one of the most popular finishing materials to date. This is largely due to its relatively low cost, but for many consumers, the installation process is much more important. If you can install the finish yourself, this is already a huge plus.

That is why, in this article, we decided to talk about how to attach MDF panels to the wall, and even if you are one hundred percent confident in your abilities, we strongly recommend that you read this material to the end and watch the videos posted in this article.

Any repair, including attaching MDF panels to the wall, begins with careful and thoughtful preparation. You need to take into account a lot of nuances, and first of all calculate the amount necessary materials. Fortunately, today it is much easier to do this than 10 years ago; you just need to use a calculator on one of the construction sites on the Internet.

Important! Calculating materials using an online calculator may have an error, which can be compensated for by simply adding 10 percent to the result. Thus, you will not only accurately guess the required quantity, but also leave a reserve in case of defects during the installation process.

It is not difficult to calculate the number of panels yourself, but only if the room in which the renovation is planned has straight walls, without communications and architectural delights. So, everything has been purchased and delivered, in principle you can start working, but there is one small trick - before attaching the MDF panels to the wall, they need to lie at room temperature for at least a day. open form, that is, removed from the packaging.

This is necessary for the material to gain moisture and produce all the deformations that inevitably occur when changing temperature regime. In the meantime, our panels are getting used to the new room, it’s time to prepare the tool. It is very important that everything you need is at hand; often it takes much more time to find a hammer or nail than to do the repair itself.

To simplify your task with preparing the tool, we present full list what may be needed during the installation process.

Set of tools

So:

Tape measure and pencil for marks. This one important tool should always be in your arsenal home handyman, and moreover, be at hand. During the entire repair, you will have to use them more than once, so it is better if they are always in your pocket.
A hacksaw for wood, but with a fine tooth. If possible, this tool can be replaced with a jigsaw, but if your repair is not planned in a huge room, then it is simply pointless to buy it. MDF panels and sheathing material are easy to cut by hand, and it does not require special physical strength.
Building level. A simple tool that no repair can be done without. In the arsenal professional builders There are high-tech laser levels, but you don’t see them often in the everyday life of a home craftsman. The fact is that the price of this tool can reach 10 thousand rubles or more, so buying it for one repair is simply not profitable.
The neighbors' threat is the hammer drill. A very loud tool, but without it you are unlikely to be able to drill holes in stone wall. You will also need a drill for the hammer drill, and it is better if it has a diamond tip.
Construction stapler. If you are still unfamiliar with this tool, now is the time to get acquainted. In many situations, it can replace a hammer and nails, and working with it is much easier and more convenient. You simply apply the gun to the mounting location and press the handle, and the metal bracket itself penetrates the base and fastens the materials.
Hammer. They say that any repair can be done with just a hammer and a strong word. Whether this is true or not, we will not say, but it is a fact that fastening MDF panels to the wall cannot be done without it.

So, the entire instrument is prepared, and you can rest a little before next step, in the meantime, we invite you to watch how to attach MDF panels to a wall video, so that you understand from the very beginning what to expect in the future.

Preparing the base

Our panels are still getting used to their new location, and now is the time for us to start preparing the walls.

Instructions for attaching panels include two options:

Attach the panels directly to the wall. Let’s say right away that this option is not suitable for us, and most often it is offered to their uninformed clients by careless and extremely lazy workers. Over time, such a finish will begin to collect moisture, and for MDF this is certain death, and sooner or later, you will understand that the repair needs to be completely redone.
On the prepared sheathing. This is the only way to protect the panels from moisture. MDF is mounted at a distance from the wall, so this finish lasts much longer. Next we will describe exactly this option, and if at some point the workers try to convince you that the lathing is not important, just look for other performers, these are clearly trying to deceive you.

Wall preparation begins with removing old decoration, and the more thoroughly it is removed, the better the base will be. There is no need to expose the wall right down to the brick; just remove the old paint or wallpaper (see How to remove wallpaper from walls correctly and without pain).

This is very easy to do with the help of a plaster spatula, and if in some places the paint stubbornly refuses to leave its place, just leave it there, which means it has become familiar with your walls and will not interfere with new repairs.

The next stage is priming. It is necessary in order to protect the walls, and subsequently the entire finish, from the appearance of mold, which inevitably forms due to the constant accumulation of condensation. Primers and impregnations penetrate deeply, in this case they work as antiseptics, that is, they do not allow fungus and mold to spread.

Advice! You shouldn’t skimp on the primer; too much of it won’t make the walls worse, but a lack of it can play a bad joke, that is, the coating simply won’t work as it should, and it’s enough for mold spores to appear in one place, and over time they will spread further throughout surfaces.

So, we have finished preparing the walls, and by this time, the panels have already become quite accustomed to the new place, but their time has not yet come.

Construction of sheathing

Now we have come to the most difficult and important stage of our renovation. Yes, yes, building the sheathing is a much more labor-intensive process, even compared to attaching the panels themselves. It is not enough to know how MDF panels are attached to the wall; before doing this, you need to do a fair amount of work with a puncher and hammer.

The sheathing can be made from wooden blocks, or from metal guide profiles onto which plasterboard is attached (see Let’s look at how to mount a plasterboard profile to a wall). The use of profiles is considered more preferable, as opposed to wood. The metal has no thermal expansion and does not absorb moisture, which means it will last much longer and the finish will not lose its original shape.

Important! When using metal guides for making sheathing, choose only a galvanized profile. It costs a little more, but it does not rust over time. The zinc layer reliably protects the metal from corrosion, and the finish will last much longer.

Marking

If you have already watched how to attach MDF panels to a wall video, you have probably noticed the so-called rule of perpendicular fastening, that is, if your panels are planned to be mounted vertically, then the guide battens should be vertical, and accordingly vice versa.

We will talk about a more traditional and familiar method of fastening - vertically, so first, we need to determine the upper and lower points. This is very easy to do; place a level on the floor and run it along the entire length. The water ball itself will show the highest point, and that is where we will focus.
From this point, we retreat five centimeters upward, this is not a technological point, and is only intended to facilitate the process of attaching the panels, so the figure is not fundamental and can fluctuate within reasonable limits.
Now, guided by the level readings, we draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room. We do the same under the ceiling, and our starting lines are ready, all that remains is to find the location of the next guides.
This is very simple to do: based on the fact that the ideal distance between the nearest guides is 50 centimeters, you can make mathematical calculations and find out their location, but there is a much simpler way.
We simply divide the distance between the top and bottom lines in half, and put a dot at this place. Now, divide the distance between the new point and the extreme lines, and put a mark again. Thus, we divide until the distance is close to the value we need of 50 centimeters.
That's all, all that remains is to simply draw lines along the level from the points obtained as a result of division, and we get all the places where our guides will stand. But that's not all, now we need to determine the attachment points, and here we repeat the same operation with halving, but on each horizontal line.

Fasteners will be installed at these points, but more on that in the next section of the article.

Fastening the guides

And before moving on to describing the process, we strongly recommend that you choose the right time. There is no need to fasten the sheathing early in the morning or late in the evening, and you should also not do this on weekends and holidays. You shouldn’t anger your neighbors, you still have to live with them.
So, we take the hammer drill in our hands, fix the drill, and at each point we marked on the horizontal line, we drill a hole of the required depth.
There may be a lot of points, but nothing can be done about it, the more often the fastenings are in place, the stronger and more reliable the sheathing will subsequently turn out, and therefore the entire finish.

Are the holes ready? So, we take a hammer, dowels and metal braces in our hands.

Metal guys are special perforated strips that are attached to the base and are needed to fix the guide profile. The convenience of guy lines is that they make it much easier to catch one plane, because we don’t want our finish to turn out crooked.
The guy wires are fastened with dowels and bent perpendicular to the wall. Now you can set the guides, and the main rule here is that all segments should be level with each other. Here you laser level will no longer help, even if it exists. You will have to check using the water eye, or use the old one old-fashioned method– plumb line.
In fact, this is the most difficult and time-consuming stage, and if you have successfully completed it, then you can take a breath - the worst is already over. All that remains is to secure the panels that have already been waiting for us.

Panel installation

You can start attaching the panels from any side, there is no fundamental difference, and it all depends on your convenience. In a word, start from where it is more convenient and easier.

Advice! Before you begin installation, adjust the settings on your stapler. To do this, you need to take a piece of panel and a piece of profile and try to connect them. The impact force of the stapler should be enough to pierce the metal and press the panel to the base. If, after fastening, there is even a slight play in the panel, further increase the impact force by tightening the shock spring.

So, the first MDF panel is placed in a corner with a small gap of 3-5 millimeters from the guide mounted on the adjacent wall. The first panel is placed with a groove in the corner and driven directly through the ridge or, if this is not possible, through the body. Subsequently, the mark from the paperclip will be covered with a decorative corner.

Now we punch through the groove part. As you may have noticed, in one of the photos in this article you can see that the grooves in the MDF panels have a special outlet, it is intended for fastening, and it is into this that the staples need to be hammered.

When the first panel is secured along all the guides, the next ridge is inserted into its groove. And the process repeats. In this way we fix all the segments, and all that remains is to glue on the decorative corners. PVA glue is best suited for these purposes, as it will not harm the coating of the panels and will securely fix all the corners.

Well, that’s basically it, we’ve figured out in detail how MDF panels are attached to the wall, and now you can safely get to work. If all the rules are followed, then no difficulties should arise, and patience and work can work real miracles, and for this it is not necessary to have many years of experience, because even the most skilled specialists started from the very basics.

Methods for fixing MDF to the wall and ceiling, what glue is used for attaching the panels. Attachment to metal lathing, and how to make a wooden frame.

MDF panel how to attach to the wall

MDF panels are attractive in appearance. A wide selection allows them to be used in various rooms for creating unique interior. They have many positive aspects and a minimum of disadvantages. However, after making the decision to cover the surface, the question arises: “How to attach the MDF panel to the wall”? The cladding methods are described below.

What are MDF panels for interior decoration: advantages and disadvantages

The material is made from fiberboard. By applying high temperature and using resins, pressing is performed wood shavings. This technology allows you to avoid using glue that contains toxic substances. Therefore, the panels are an environmentally friendly facing material.

MDF is produced in three types:

Laminate – repeats the pattern of wood, marble and other materials.
Veneer is made from shavings of valuable wood species.
Varnished panels.

Material Features:

Easy to attach to surface. Fixation is carried out on frame base and on glue.
Additional protection from noise and extraneous sounds.
There is an option for leveling and insulating the surface with an attractive appearance.
Hiding communications and wires.
Easy care.

Negative aspects of cladding:

when hanging objects on lined walls, you must use a fisher anchor;
many types of material cannot withstand constant exposure to moisture;
the material burns.

Despite the negative aspects, panels are used to create Beautiful design rooms, loggias and corridors.

MDF panel: methods of mounting to the wall

There are 2 methods to attach the cladding to a rough surface. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Fixation on a frame base. The cladding is attached to a metal or wooden sheathing. To do this, you do not need to thoroughly level the walls, but you do need to make markings and prepare the material.

Fastening panels with glue. To do this, the adhesive solution must meet a number of requirements relevant to this work. Otherwise the panels will fall off.

The cladding is attached to:

adhesive solution;
liquid Nails;
polyurethane foam.

The positive aspects of this method:

Installation time. It is faster to lay the cladding on a flat surface than to create a frame base and then attach the material.
No screws are needed for fastening.

Flaws:

Panels are not attached to curved surfaces. The wall needs to be made level.
If 1 element is damaged, then the entire surface must be replaced.
It is impossible to insulate a wall and hide communications there.

Knowing the installation features, there is precision in choosing the cladding fastening.

Mounting to a wall on a wooden frame

The wooden frame is constructed in a dry room. Treated wood is used for this.

Advantages:

installation is simpler than a metal frame;
for the frame base you need slats of the same section;
wood is an environmentally friendly material.

Flaws:

do not install in damp rooms;
do not use untreated bars;
the tree is susceptible to small rodents and bugs.

Despite these disadvantages, well-treated and dried wood lasts a long time without deforming.

Sheathing using a metal profile

Metal lathing is made using profiles. They are used to create a frame base in damp rooms, because the profile is coated with anti-corrosion material.

Advantages of metal construction:

no need to level the surface to create a frame;
all communications are hidden under the metal structure;
insulate the wall;
If the panel is damaged, it is possible to replace it without dismantling the entire surface.

Disadvantages of galvanized profile construction:

The area of the room is reduced.
If you need to hang an object on a surface, use anchors that can withstand the load.

To create a profile lathing, you need to incur additional costs.

Mounting to a wall without lathing or frame using glue

The panels are attached to an adhesive base only when the surface does not deviate from the level and there are no significant defects.

Advantages of installing cladding with glue:

Installation time. Minimum time spent on installation of cladding.
There are no additional costs for fasteners.
The space of the room or corridor is not reduced.

Negative sides:

there is no way to hide communications. For wiring you need to ditch the wall;
there is no possibility of laying waterproofing insulation;
do not apply this method in bathrooms due to dampness;
If one panel is damaged, the entire surface must be dismantled.

To choose a method for attaching panels, you need to calculate and take everything into account external factors, such as humidity, temperature changes.

Do-it-yourself sequence of finishing MDF panels

For the chosen method of creating a flat surface using a frame, it is necessary to carry out a number of works in the following sequence:

Measurements and calculations to purchase the required amount of material.
Wood processing if the frame is made of bars.
Surface treatment with primer. In some cases, puttying.
Marking on the rough surface for installation of a smooth and durable frame.
Installation of sheathing.
Fastening panels.

Sequence of work using the glue method:

Assessing the surface for evenness.
Priming the rough base.
Marking for the first panel.
Cutting the material to the required length.
Applying glue.
Fixing the cladding.
Fastening corners and planks.

Correct work will be a guarantee long service beautiful appearance.

Fastening without sheathing with self-tapping screws: operating instructions

Panels without sheathing are attached with self-tapping screws only to a wooden wall. If the surface is made of another material, there is no need to take such risks, because due to the movement of the soil and the movements of the building, the screws will weaken over time. The panels will become loose and lose their appearance.

How to install MDF wall panels in the kitchen: fastening without slats

Glue method. In this case, the surface must be smooth, dry, and clean. The rough base is primed and markings are made for the first panel. The material is cut to the required length. The glue is applied with a notched trowel. When gluing panels you need to use a level. Evenness is mainly checked in the corners. After installation, wipe the surface with a damp microfiber to remove dust and glue residues.

What is better to secure: glue or liquid nails?

Each material used has its pros and cons.

Polyurethane foam expands when it dries. This may cause the surface of the cladding to bend. But, it will hold the rough base and panel together for a long time. If the material is damaged, dismantling will take a lot of time. It is used in damp rooms and during sudden temperature changes.

Universal glue - a type that is used that holds the rough base (concrete, brick) and wooden elements together.

Liquid nails - a product suitable for gluing wooden elements with other reasons. Has many positive aspects:

Can be used in wet areas;
quick adhesion to the surface;
long service life;
adhesive strength.

The negative side is that there is a considerable amount of it over large areas.

How to glue it to a concrete wall: mounting

The glue must have the following set of properties:

Working with wood.
Quality guarantee for gluing concrete and wood.
Harden quickly.
Moisture resistant.
Alkali resistance.

Types of adhesive for installation of cladding:

Compounds. Universal material – “Titanium”, “Moment”.
A special series is “liquid nails”, “macroflex”.
Polyurethane foam.

The glue is applied in a small dotted line to the MDF surface, wait the time specified by the manufacturer (if necessary) and apply to the surface.

Errors in working with " liquid nails“—there is no need to wait too long before fixing. The grip will decrease. Further, if the product on the surface of the panel is not wiped off in time, the appearance will be ruined.

Errors in working with foam. You need to use a construction gun.

Cladding on metal frame structures

MDF is fixed to the metal frame using clasps. They are attached to the profile with small self-tapping screws. When purchasing a kit, you need to pay attention to the contents. If the package contains not self-tapping screws but nails (for a wooden frame), then the “bugs” are purchased separately.

Metal profile frame set

The frame base is no different from the sheathing for drywall. To do this, the surface is primed and marked.

The guide profiles are attached first. Everything is checked by level. NP is secured with dowel nails. They are also used to attach hangers for the rack profile.

The fastening step of the rack rail is 60 cm. If transverse ones are used for rigidity, their fastening step is the same. Clamps for panels are attached to the rack profile.

Beacons

These are the main planks in the sheathing. They are attached according to the markings. After determining a single plane on the wall, the NP is fixed at the corners on the ceiling and floor with dowels and nails. The fixation must be mirrored. For evenness, tighten the threads and lower the plumb line. A laser level is also used.

Sheet fastening

MDF fastening produced from the corner of the sheathing. It goes in this order:

Measure and cut the first panel.
A hole for lighting fixtures is cut out in it (if necessary).
The panel placed in the corner, on one side, is secured with self-tapping screws. With another clips.
Subsequent panels are secured using locks and clasps.
Ceiling and floor skirting boards secured with glue.
The last step is to fix the finishing corner. It covers the screws in the corners. Fix them with glue.

After the work is done, wipe the entire surface with a damp cloth.

How to sheathe on wooden sheathing

Wooden sheathing is simpler than metal sheathing. MDF is fixed using tongue-and-groove locks. To do this, use small “shoe” nails.

How to attach slats

Wooden slats are attached to the base according to the markings made. To do this, use dowel-nails - a concrete, brick base, or self-tapping screws - a wooden base.

What should be the distance between the slats?

After fixing the main guides, moving 40-60 cm from the floor and from the ceiling, attach horizontal (vertical direction of the panels) or vertical slats. The step between them is 40-60 cm. Each fastening will be checked with a level for evenness.

Installation of sheets

MDF is fixed from the corner. The first panel is attached with self-tapping screws to the wooden frame frame. Subsequent sheets are connected with clasps. The panels must fit evenly and tightly to the frame. If there are protrusions wooden slats, they are trimmed with a plane or knife.

What is the best way to mount MDF sheets on the ceiling?

An MDF ceiling is called a suspended ceiling. Because the best way is considered to be fixation on a frame base.

The sheathing is made of wood and metal profiles. It is no different from creating a standard sheathing. The spacing of the slats is 40-60 cm.

Finishing of the sheathed surface

After fixing the cladding, you need to glue the corners and dividing strips. They are fixed with liquid nails.

You must be careful not to let the glue get on the front side of the material. Appearance will be spoiled.

If the mixture gets on the panel, wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth.

Care

The panels are not washed with products containing acids. Powders are also not used.

The product should be used once a month general cleaning. Once a week, wipe the surface with a soft microfiber soaked in water. room temperature no chemicals.

Steam cannot be used. When directing a jet from a steam generator, the panels will immediately lose their original appearance and become deformed.

The panels are fixed to a frame base - which is more durable - and to glue - in rooms without fumes and sudden changes in temperature. Surface care does not require expensive products or effort.

Useful video

Wall decoration natural materials, for example, solid wood panels add nobility and style to the interior, but it is expensive and impractical. An excellent solution in this case is to choose a material that combines decorative look natural wood and the durability and strength of artificial binders. MDF panels have gained well-deserved popularity among builders; they are used to decorate both residential rooms and commercial and public spaces. They are easy to attach to the wall and look neat and stylish.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels for wall decoration

MDF is made from wood fibers that have been treated with high blood pressure and temperature, pressed into a slab.

Binders and useful additives give MDF special properties and advantages that are indispensable for wall cladding:

Disadvantages of the material:

low elasticity;
under conditions of high humidity, dampness penetrates through the untreated ends of the slab, which deforms and destroys the MDF structure;
fire hazard.

How to properly attach MDF to the wall

There are several types of MDF available that are suitable for use in different conditions operation:

solidly pressed products have a smooth front surface, medium density; furniture is made from these sheets;
laminated panels covered on top protective film, they are characterized by increased strength and decorative effects;
Moisture-resistant boards are more expensive than regular boards, they are denser and can be used in wet areas: bathrooms and kitchens.

Having assessed the characteristics of each type, you can make optimal choice to create a durable finishing coating. Before starting repairs, you need to make a drawing of the room with sheet markings and calculate the consumption of materials and fasteners.

To make your work more convenient, make a drawing of the room and calculate the quantity consumables

For correct calculation it is necessary from total area walls subtract the area of windows and doorways. To the result obtained, add 10% for possible trimmings.

There are several ways to attach MDF panels to the wall, each of them has its own technological features, having studied which you can choose the most suitable option.

Mounting on a wooden sheathing

This method has many advantages:

the frame hides defects and differences in the height of the base and does not require careful preparation of the walls;
space is created for laying communications and wiring;
Insulation can be placed under the panels;
It simplifies the replacement of a separate MDF board.

There are also disadvantages:

the space of the room is reduced, which is especially important for non- large premises;
fastening hanging decorative elements and furniture will require long anchors and mortgages.

The surface under the finishing in damp rooms can accumulate condensation and become a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew, which is harmful to health. To solve this problem, it is necessary to treat the wall surface with a fungicidal antifungal impregnation, and to reduce the possibility of fire - with a fire retardant. A block measuring 30x30 mm is suitable for lathing.

MDF panels - modern and environmentally friendly material

In addition to the MDF panels themselves, you will need the following list of tools and materials for work:

level, plumb line, ruler and pencil;
ladder, wooden blocks for sheathing;
drill, hammer drill, screwdriver;
dowels or self-tapping screws, you can use clamps, nails with a reduced head;
fire retardant and fungicidal impregnation;
liquid nails for fixing corner trim elements;
brush, spatula, bars, large-toothed hacksaw or saw.

Preparatory work:

The frame is ready, now you can mount the MDF panels:

For thin slabs you can do reliable fastening to the sheathing strips using glue. Liquid nails are perfect for this purpose.

On a metal profile

This method uses a special aluminum or galvanized metal profile. This frame is more expensive, but does not have the disadvantages of wood and will last much longer. This method is optimal for finishing rooms with high humidity.

Should be prepared following materials and tools:

guides and supporting profile strips, hangers, small self-tapping screws “seeds” for connecting profiles to each other;
screwdriver and screws, hammer drill and dowels;
ruler and level, marker;
stairs, baseboards and corners;
chisel attachment for a hammer drill;
clamps, one box of 100 pieces is enough;
plaster and putty.

Preparing the base:

This method does not require leveling or carefully preparing the wall, just remove old tiles or wallpaper and apply a fire-retardant compound so that in conditions of increased dampness mold and mildew do not grow under the finish.
Mark the wall, place the planks in increments of 45–50 cm. Mark the lines on the floor, walls and ceiling. Before installation, you can stick foil foam foil for thermal insulation.
A properly installed sheathing will allow it to last for a long time, and MDF panels will not warp over time.
Attach straight hangers, which are subsequently bent to strengthen the frame structure and align the finishing plane at the required distance from the main wall.
Mount hangers on the wall
Fix the guide strips to the ceiling, floor and side walls with dowels. Insert the supporting main planks into the hangers and guides, and fasten the structure with small self-tapping screws, called “seeds” by the craftsmen. It is convenient to use a screwdriver with a magnetic attachment for this work. Fastening is carried out in increments of 15–25 cm.
Fix the guides on the floor, ceiling, walls
Check the level for the correct position of the slats and lay the necessary communications. Place the wiring into a corrugated pipe and fill the gaps with insulation, bending the protruding edges of the hangers outward.
Fill the gaps between the profiles with insulation

Stages of installation of MDF panels:

Without frame

If the base is smooth and has no defects, then fastening can be done without installing the frame.

This method has its advantages:

operating time is significantly reduced;
Precious centimeters of the room do not decrease; the wall protrudes only 10 mm.

For fastening you will need:

adhesive composition, liquid nails, mounting gun;
fine-tooth hacksaw, brush;
stepladder for working at height;
universal corners made of fiberboard, baseboard, insulation;
fire-bioprotective impregnation, primer.

Stages of preparatory work:

After the walls have completely dried, we proceed to the installation of MDF boards:

Video: installation of MDF panels on the wall

Proper installation of MDF panels is not at all difficult, they do not require special care, and the walls look like finished natural wood exotic rocks or leather, granite. Practical and inexpensive cladding will give the interior gloss and a neat, fresh look.

How to mount MDF panels to the wall, and on what basis, the decision must be made taking into account the characteristics of the wall geometry, the size of the room, the presence of communications and constant heating. Despite their enormous popularity, MDF wall boards are quite picky about operating conditions, so you should not fasten them with the first method that comes to hand, so as not to re-lay the finish a second time.

Dimensions of MDF panels

Often, consultants of trading companies present MDF boards as a lightweight version of particleboard panels, especially if you decipher English abbreviation. Accordingly, it is recommended to fasten them in the same way as in the case of using chipboard. In fact, MDF panels are significantly different in structure and production method from particle board, which allows the material to be attached at lower costs and at higher speeds.

There are only three main differences:

Thin MDF boards are made from recycled cellulose fiber, which contains virtually no polysugars - a staple food for bacteria, fungus and rodents. Chipboard uses ordinary chips filled with phenol-formaldehyde resin, so they are secured with special tongues;
The boards are made by pressing wood fiber mass with the addition of hydrogen peroxide. At a temperature of 250 o C, lignin and part of the cellulose are welded by the remains of caramelized polysaccharides into a dense fiber mass. In thick slabs, the MDF core is additionally impregnated with polymer resin, which makes it possible to fasten without the risk of delamination of the material;
The bending strength of the panel is only slightly inferior to plywood with greater ductility and resistance to moisture. Most brands of MDF can be mounted on walls even in rooms with low levels of ventilation.

The difference, at first glance, is insignificant, but it is the strength and elasticity of the cellulose fiber base of the MDF panel that makes it possible to fasten the cladding slabs using end locks.

Even with a strong temperature difference, the MDF panel shows a level of expansion that is significantly less than that of plastic or conventional wooden lining, so the material can be fixed with smaller gaps, which is especially important for slabs of medium and large thickness.

What sizes are most popular?

Three size groups are used for wall cladding:

Thin slabs, size group 5-9 mm thick, width 153, 198, 200,325 and 2070 mm;
Medium MDF panels, thickness 10-18 mm, width 2070 mm;
Oversized slabs, thickness 19-38 mm, width 2070 mm.

There are no restrictions on external dimensions, and the maximum thickness of the slabs is limited by the pressing capabilities of up to 40 mm. Double-layer MDF panels with a maximum thickness of up to 60 mm are also produced, used for the manufacture of reusable formwork and roofing lining. But the quality of the outer surface of such slabs is quite low, so they are not used for wall decoration.

Installation of MDF panels

Pressed cellulose fibers retain heat and absorb noise much better than plastic or wood. In addition, the MDF panel has a certain anisotropy of properties; it can be cut and processed in almost any order. Attaching the panels is easy and even a novice tiler can do it.

For home purposes, panels can be mounted in three ways:

Lay the slabs on the glue;
Mount the cladding on a wooden or metal frame;
Installation of MDF panels using the hanging method.

The latter case is used as an exceptional way of cladding walls in a house made of timber or rounded logs. It is necessary to mount MDF boards on a ceiling-mounted suspension profile with a small gap between the floor and the lower edge of the board. The cladding ends up suspended on the profile, and as the walls shrink, the MDF sags along with the timber material.

It is clear that for wooden house It would be more preferable to use narrow slabs, 190-200 mm wide, while it is better to mount MDF in the vertical direction. If it is not known exactly about the planned amount of wall shrinkage, then it is best to attach the decorative trim with a gap increased by 2-3 cm. Firstly, this ensures that if excessive shrinkage occurs, the floor will not tear the slabs off the walls, and secondly, the gaps will ensure a normal level of ventilation and ventilation of the space between the panels and the wall.

Installation on a metal frame

Installing panels on a supporting frame made of galvanized profile is recognized by experts as the most rational and reliable way of fastening any cellulose-fiber materials. Even heavy slabs with a density of up to 1.5-1.8 g/cm 3 can be attached to a metal frame without any problems. The metal will not suffer from condensation or soaking of the walls as a result of burst pipes, water leaks in the apartment on the floor above or a break in the roof.

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of the starting profile and side strips. MDF panels are light in weight, so it is enough to install a number of vertical profiles No. 50 in increments of 40-50 cm. Using a galvanized U-profile makes it possible to attach MDF to the walls of a room approximately two to three times faster than any other method.

Two or three drops of silicone applied to the profile will even out the load on the wall and will prevent the cladding from flapping in a strong wind if there is a ventilation gap behind the decorative MDF lamellas.

Installation on a wooden frame

The easiest way is to mount MDF panels on a wooden frame. There are two options for wall cladding using cellulose fiber panels. It all depends on the size of the room and the condition of the walls.

If a slight reduction in space due to the sheathing is not critical, a frame made of wooden slats is sewn onto the walls using metal hanger holders. For small and small rooms, most often it is necessary to partially cut and knock down a layer of plaster in order to level the surface along a vertical plumb line and make it as smooth as possible.

In any case, the starting strip is initially laid on the floor and under the ceiling. Using a long building level, the installation points of the hangers are marked on the wall and the minimum required overhang of the side lobes of the fasteners is determined.

If you plan to install horizontal MDF slats, the supporting strips are mounted vertically. To install full-size panels with a width of more than 200 mm, the walls are sewn in both directions. Each wooden plank of the sheathing is aligned along the starting guides and fixed with suspension petals using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

For relatively smooth and dry brick, concrete or block walls The sheathing can be attached directly to the wall using dowels. In this case, more work is added, since each plank before fastening has to be adjusted for a long time using shim washers in order to withstand a single vertical plane. But you can save 3-4 cm of internal space, which can be very useful, for example, when decorating the walls of a small bathroom or corridor.

Glue installation

Using sheathing or load-bearing frame always eats up an additional 3-7 cm of space on each wall. Usage frame system counts a good decision, but it is not at all necessary to fence a frame jungle if the walls of the room for future cladding with MDF panels turn out to be smooth, without serious defects and deviations from the vertical.

In this case, it is enough to clean the walls and prime them acrylic primer and apply thin layer insulating putty. The lime sublayer will help to further level the walls and improve the adherence of MDF boards to the supporting surface.

Laying panels on walls using glue is carried out in two options:

Each MDF is glued to the wall with one lamella, from ceiling to floor, with fixation along the end edge using self-tapping screws and plastic plugs;
The material is laid on the wall in horizontal stripes from corner to corner after assembling and gluing in the corner and edge parts.

If the slats are glued directly to the wall, then the end joints are not glued or treated with sealing materials. Most often, fairly large panels, 40-60 cm wide, are laid on walls using glue. This method is more advantageous from a technological point of view, since the load from the considerable weight of the MDF panel is distributed not over several clamps or staples, but over the entire surface of the slab and walls. What does this give? Greater reliability, if the top row of MDF lamellas breaks, the middle and bottom rows will hold the entire structure.

Before fixing the MDF panels to the wall, reverse side cover in small portions glue. These can be dots, spirals, short stripes. The main thing that adhesive material was evenly distributed over the wall surface.

As glue, it is best to use automotive sealant, polyurethane adhesives and homemade adhesives based on a mixture of acetone and polystyrene foam. Acrylic and polyvinyl acetate adhesives hold MDF panels rather weakly.

For your information! The MDF sticker on the sealant makes it possible to trim and remove the panel from the wall if necessary without damaging the surface. Stiffer alkyd, polystyrene and acrylic adhesives can tear off part of the back surface.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall

The process of installing cellulose fiber panels is relatively simple and easy to understand, even for a beginner. If a horizontal installation method is used, then the bottom panel or lamella is installed first, directly resting on the starting strip of the frame. It needs to be laid on glue, leveled to the building level and secured with a stapler or self-tapping screw.

Before laying the next panel on the wall, it is necessary to install the corner or edge cladding elements, fix them on the wall, and only then proceed with laying the next parts of MDF.

How to fasten MDF panels to a bar or profile is selected individually in each specific case, based on the fastening conditions and the size of the material. Relatively thin, 6-9 mm lamellas are snapped into place with tongue-and-groove locks, after which the free end is sewn to the beam with staples and self-tapping screws. If it is assumed that it is possible to periodically remove the MDF cladding from the wall to inspect communications or wiring laid behind the decorative trim, then the panels are installed with clamps.

Thick slabs are mounted directly on the walls using glue and dowels, sealing the joints with acrylic putty and then gluing wallpaper or PVC film.

A difficult option on how to install MDF on walls with insulation

MDF boards much simpler and more convenient to use than heavy drywall, plywood or plastic, while the strength of the panels is enough to build two or even three-layer cladding options from a fiber composite with insulation as an intermediate layer.

For example, cold external walls made of profiles, siding or concrete blocks are hemmed from the inside with HDF class MDF boards, with a density of 800-1800 kg/m3. The thickness of the slabs is 25-40 mm. The laid panels are sewn together at the joints with oblique screws and staplers, and the seam itself is rubbed with polymer mastic.

The material is treated with impregnation, which ensures good vapor transmission with high resistance to surface condensation. The slabs are fastened to the external walls “cold” - using steel dowels and carpentry screws. On the inside of the slab sheathing, wooden slats or strips cut from the slabs are sewn.

A vapor membrane is pulled over the laid thermal insulation and hammered in horizontal slats cross section 20x20 mm. The last step is to sew the lungs onto the slatted sheathing. decorative panels MDF class LDF with wood texture, natural stone or veneered.

Due to the low density of LDF, 200-600 kg/m 3, MDF panels perfectly transmit steam, which is removed through the ventilation gap and the ceiling ventilation seam. In this way, walls are sheathed in summer kitchens, balconies, verandas, and any rooms with frame-type walls.

Features of finishing with MDF panels

Most professional finishers prefer to work with MDF, since there is no dust and dirt, as is the case with drywall, installation is faster, and there are much fewer problems.

The assembly and installation of MDF on walls is in many ways similar to the installation of laminate floors, the only difference being that there are more opportunities for choosing decorative schemes for the room and a much more complex arrangement of corner and slope sectors of the walls.

Slopes

Scheme of arrangement of door or window slopes no different from plasterboard options. If the slats were laid vertically on the walls, then to design a window or doorway it is enough to cut a panel of the required height and width and stick it on the slope plane polyurethane foam or sealant.

If the walls in the room are protected by horizontal panels, then the slopes will have to be assembled from sections with self-tapping screws and plastic plugs.

Corners and crevices

Between the laid additional elements and the main part of the cladding, cracks and gaps always form. They have to be eliminated with the help of special decorative corner trims and decorative skirting boards.

All auxiliary decor is glued to “Titanium” or “Mounting Moment for MDF”, a small amount of glue is applied to the edge along the gap, after which a corner strip is installed at the joint. To prevent the decor from coming off, the corner is temporarily fixed with tape.

Sockets and switches

Every room has at least a couple of outlets and one switch. In order not to dismantle them during the installation of MDF, proceed as follows: measure the coordinates of the location of the socket on the wall, after which a hole of the appropriate shape and size is cut out with a ring drill or jigsaw. When installing an MDF panel, the size and position of the hole is specified and trimmed with a sharp knife.

All that remains is to install the panel, secure it to the wall, and close the remaining gap with a decorative frame.

Conclusion

The details of the process, how to attach MDF panels to the wall, must be thought out and planned in advance, before work begins. decorative finishing premises. The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in any room there are many problem areas where you almost have to invent the fastening method on your own. In this case, it is better to draw the details and method of fixation on the diagram, so that you do not have to rack your brains and waste time during the work process.

The modern interior provides a beautiful and original finish, which especially emphasizes the style of housing. Therefore in Lately MDF wall panels are extremely popular among designers. Unlike wooden board They are inexpensive, come in various colors and are easy to install, giving the room a refined look.

Peculiarities

MDF is a unique construction material, produced in the form of panels from medium-density wood-fiber raw materials. Since the slabs are produced by dry pressing of wood shavings under high temperature and pressure with the addition of urea resin, they are extremely strong and durable in use.

Decorative finishing with such panels has many advantages.

Easy installation. The material can be fastened in any direction: diagonally, across or along the surface of the wall. In addition, to install the panels you do not need to carefully prepare working base. The condition of the walls does not in any way affect the quality of the cladding.
Aesthetic appearance. A huge range of colors and textures allows you to use MDF for any styling. In addition, during installation, a small space remains between the slabs and the base of the walls, which can be used to hide insulation and wiring.
Good thermal insulation. The material is characterized by excellent heat resistance, so after fastening MDF room gains additional insulation.
Easy care. To clean the panels from dust and dirt, just wipe them with a soft sponge soaked in warm water. If damage occurs during operation, there is no need to completely change the casing. To do this, the panel with defects is removed and a new one is attached in its place.
Durability. This cladding will reliably last for decades.

Despite the presence positive characteristics, MDF also has some disadvantages.

Low moisture resistance. When exposed to moisture, the material is subject to deformation. Therefore, for finishing rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to use special boards with a protective layer.
Instability to mechanical damage and loads. Decorative panels require careful installation and maintenance.
High risk of fire. Electrical wiring, which is laid under the trim, must be placed in the fire resistance of the box.
Formation of hollow walls. Since MDF is fixed to the frame, there is a “emptiness” between the skins, so when you need to fix furniture to the walls, you have to use long nails or dowels.

Before purchasing facing slabs, it is important to consider that they are produced different sizes depending on the model range each brand.

As a rule, the most common products on the market are thicknesses from 7 mm to 14 mm and sizes 2600×200 mm, 2600×153 mm, 2600×325 mm. Wall blocks are usually attached with glue or lathing made from wooden beams and metal profiles. At the same time, installing slabs on a wooden frame is much simpler, but before installation, the wood should be coated with antiseptic solutions that protect it from the formation of mold and mildew.

Today, MDF boards have found wide application in various fields. They line the walls, door leaves, window sills, ceilings, and also screens for heating and ventilation systems and arches are made from the material. This finish looks great in modern interior, since the panels imitate not only expensive types of wood, but also natural stone.

Calculation of material quantity

The installation of MDF, like any other material, must begin with a preliminary calculation of the number of panels. To do this, first of all, determine the area of the room: all the necessary measurements are made, and the perimeter is multiplied by the height. It is also important to consider the presence of doors and windows in the room. Their quadrature is calculated in a similar way, multiplying the height by the width, the resulting result is subtracted from the total area of the room.

Then, knowing all the numbers, you can go shopping for wall panels. Since the products are sold in different sizes, you will have to additionally calculate how much square meters in each slab. Usually manufacturers write this on the packs. If, for example, a panel is purchased with a width of 900 mm and a length of 2600 mm, then it is enough to multiply 2600 mm by 900 mm. As a result, it turns out that there are 2.34 m2 in one slab. Then the area of the room that is planned to be covered must simply be divided by 2.34 m2, and you will get required quantity panels.

Preparing tools

Important point before starting MDF sheathing The preparation of the instrument also counts. Since the installation of wall panels is not particularly difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without the help of specialists.

To get the job done quickly and efficiently, you need to have a basic set of tools on hand.

Roulette. It is best to use a 5-meter tape measure.
Level. It can either be purchased in a store or made from jute, with a nut attached to the end.
Drill with a full set of attachments. It will perfectly replace a screwdriver and simplify the task of fastening the plates.
Metal square. For installation, the one that has different legs and is usually used by mechanics is suitable. Using a square, panels for cutting slopes will be measured.
Hacksaw or jigsaw. It is recommended to stock up on both at the same time. In this case, a hacksaw should be selected with small teeth that have a transverse and longitudinal cut.
Bulgarian. It is needed for cutting metal profiles if the frame is planned to be assembled from metal.

In addition to the above, you will also need the usual tools that everyone has in the house: a screwdriver, a knife, a hammer, drills and a marker.

Installation methods

Before sheathing the walls with MDF, it is necessary to determine how to fasten them. Decorative panels can be installed using glue or on the sheathing. Each of these methods is characterized by its own installation technology.

Before choosing, you should evaluate the condition of the surface, taking into account some nuances.

The boards are made from wood fibers, so the material must be protected from contact with substrates damaged by mold. Installation on walls in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. In addition, the panels must be mounted on a flat base.
If the walls are well cleaned of old finishing and dry, then MDF can be installed on them using glue or liquid nails without assembling the sheathing. This will simplify fastening, but will eliminate the possibility of replacing individual plates if they are mechanically damaged.

The installation of wall blocks on a frame is as follows: guides are attached to the surface, serving as the basis for installation, then MDF is fixed to a metal profile or block.

This technique has many advantages.

The lathing hides defects in the base, so the walls do not need to be leveled and leveled. This, in turn, significantly saves time and money.
The resulting “void” between the skin will serve ideal place for laying important communication systems and laying a thermal insulation layer. In addition, additional sound insulation is created, which is especially important for apartments in which the partitions between the walls have poor sound absorption.
Opportunity quick repair finishing if individual panels have been damaged.

As for the disadvantages of such cladding, it significantly reduces the area of the room, and if you need to hang pieces of furniture or decorative elements, then it is worth considering that the structure will not withstand such loads.

Unlike the previous method, planting with glue does not have any significant disadvantages. MDF boards are attached directly to the wall; in this case, the connecting element is glue. To additionally secure the panels together, clamps are also used. Thanks to this finishing option, the area of the room is not reduced, installation is carried out quickly, without damaging the material with screws or nails. But if the surface of the cladding is damaged during operation, then it will be necessary to restore not just one fragment of the finish, but the entire wall.

When deciding on the choice of one method or another, it is worth taking into account not only the features of the room, but also calculating the costs of covering. For example, in some cases it is much more economical to putty the walls and not build a frame. For large rooms, of course, it is best to install lathing, since perfectly leveling their walls will be problematic.

Execution of work

Due to their performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance, MDF panels are widely used in finishing works. Wall panels You can not only decorate the ceilings of the corridor, the hallway, but also decorate the doorway or window slopes in an original way. Furniture fittings and wall corners can also be easily made from the material at home. Since the product is easy to install, it is quite possible to do all the work yourself. Before attaching MDF, you should prepare the surface for finishing by cleaning it from the old coating and eliminating all defects.

Regardless of whether the cladding is planned on concrete, wood or brick, the base must be primed; this will protect the finish from the appearance of mold and mildew in the future.

For additional thermal insulation of window slopes, walls and doorways, it is recommended to lay insulating material; it will not only serve good insulation, but will also cope with the task of vapor and waterproofing.

To install panels on slopes, they can be fastened along or across, it all depends on the size of the slope. This finish, made from a combination of light and dark pieces of slabs, looks original. Installation of panels on walls and ceilings is carried out either with glue or with pre-installed assembled frame. To do this, first attach the starting profile, and then the guides, along the length of which you need to correctly join the decorative parts. To make a beautiful corner, before installation you should trim the material, rounding its edges.

It is recommended to saw or cut panels using special woodworking tools. The best option A jigsaw is considered suitable for this, but if you don’t have one at hand, a fine-toothed saw will do. Having decided on the direction of the MDF sheathing, the panels are measured and cut to the required length. In this case, it is necessary to cut off the tenon along the entire length of the first slab; if this is not done, then difficulties will arise when installing the corners.

Lathing

When choosing a method for attaching MDF to the sheathing, you will first have to make durable frame from metal profiles or wooden beams. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to the fact that wooden structure requires preliminary impregnation with antiseptic solutions that will protect it from rot and mold. If you plan to lay thermal insulation, then the thickness of the beams is chosen according to the thickness of the insulating material. For plating brick walls and rooms with high humidity, wooden frames are not recommended.

To prevent wooden beams from becoming deformed during installation, you should choose well-dried wood. Fasten the structure perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, leaving a small margin from the floor of 5 cm and from the ceiling of 3 cm. First of all, fix vertical elements, which are placed along the edges of recesses, in corners and next to openings. The planks should be spaced 700 mm apart from each other. To fasten the structure, self-tapping screws or nails with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm are usually used.

For assembly metal structure UD racks and horizontal CD profiles are used. The sheathing pitch is similarly 600-700 mm.

The CD profile is inserted into the rack and everything is secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. Metal profiles can be cut with a special circular saw. If the ceiling is finished with panels, then the frame must be assembled only from horizontal elements, using additional fasteners.

Paneling

After the frame structure is ready, the paneling begins. MDF slabs are fixed to each other using a tongue and groove lock, consisting of a recess and a ridge. TO wooden sheathing the parts are secured with small nails, they are driven in obliquely with a hammer. To install the material on the metal profile, clamps are used, they are placed in the groove of the slab and secured with self-tapping screws.

When installed vertically, the MDF begins to be fixed from the corner, smoothly redirecting to the left. The first slab is attached to the beam with nails, and from the groove side the fixation is carried out with clamps. Then the ridge of the next slab is placed in the groove of the first. The last panel should be cut to length, leaving a small margin of 5 mm, and its ridge should be cut in half. It must be inserted into the groove of the previous panel and the free edge secured.

Pieces of wall slabs are used to cover slopes. To beautifully close the skin, use special corners. They are placed on liquid nails or glue, decorating the edges near doors and windows. In addition, MDF is excellent for finishing the ceiling surface; in this case, the panels are installed in a direction perpendicular to the base of the walls.