Do-it-yourself heating of a private house: detailed instructions for installing the entire system (80 photos). Heating system "warm floor"

Individual heating a private home not only allows you to provide yourself with the desired comfort. It is important both for society as a whole and for the safety environment. In addition to the fact that “spot” heating eliminates heat loss in the mains (and this is up to 30% or more of the power of a thermal power plant) and reduces the need for large-scale industrial construction, emissions greenhouse gases becomes dispersed in space and time and is much more easily “digested” by the natural cycle of substances.

Note: during a typical spring thunderstorm in the Moscow region, energy is released in the amount of approximately 6-20 Mt of TNT equivalent. And only 100 kt of it, released instantly and at a point, over the same area, will cause catastrophic destruction.

The full identification of the advantages of individual heating systems (HS) is currently hampered by 2 circumstances: technical innovations that provide radical fuel savings are very expensive and pay for themselves in 20-40 years, and professional implementation of CO, in addition to being expensive, is constrained by stereotypes of standard design (involuntary pun). When mechanically transferring them to private houses designed differently, heating 1 cubic meter . m of their volume often turns out to be more expensive than in a panel high-rise apartment, and fuel consumption does not fit into environmental standards. Therefore, for many homeowners and private developers, the question of how to make a CO with your own hands, or at least competently develop its scheme, is of burning interest.

This article is an attempt to highlight these problems from the point of view, first of all, of minimizing the costs of both the construction of the CO and heating costs in the future. Global economy, ecology is, of course, very important. But one must go to them based on the well-being of individual citizens, and not make sacrifices to a certain Leviathan.

Of particular interest as a heating object is a two-story house. In mass construction it is unprofitable, where profitability directly depends on the number of floors. Until recently, private owners also avoided second/one-and-a-half floors; it seemed complicated and a little expensive. But with rising prices for building plots and taxes on land and real estate, floors above the ground floor are becoming increasingly important for small homeowners.

At the same time, for a one-and-a-half to two-story building, it is possible to implement unconventional heating schemes that are very economical both in terms of initial costs and operation. Perhaps a builder or heating engineer with “typical” thinking will have his eyes roll out of his head when looking at such a project, but it works! It's warm!

Our ultimate goal is to develop autonomous heating with the possibility of emergency connection of alternative energy sources, the operating costs of which will not exceed those for an apartment in a high-rise building equal area. Have you reported, my dear? Well, the text with infographics is in front of you, read it and judge for yourself.

Initial positions

Take a look at fig. No, this is not our final result. This is a heating scheme for a 2-story house with a total area of ​​120-150 square meters. m, developed according to the European DIN standard. Only CO scheme, without boiler piping. Which is even more fearful, and you can look at the trace to see what just the collector unit looks like in real life. rice. on right. How much money will be spent on pipes, taps, temperature gauges, pressure gauges and fasteners alone? Let's not talk about sad things, let's talk about the dynamics of mortgage rates. Black humor, sorry.

We won't do that. Anyhow, too. To simplify and reduce the cost of CO, we use the fact that the concept of quality of life is often taken to the point of absurdity and turns into its opposite. In relation to this case, firstly, we will refuse to control electronics and automatically maintain individually set temperatures in rooms with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. A person is not Kramer's oncidium orchid, not a Cusimanza civet, and not a decorative pony. It was not formed in greenhouse conditions and temperature fluctuations of 2-3 degrees within the comfort range will only benefit him.

Secondly, European standards cannot tolerate breathing walls. Even construction wood, and building from living wood is directly prohibited in some countries. Why is unclear and not clearly substantiated anywhere. Perhaps for the same reason that a standard European individual, under pain of painful death, will not eat wild mushrooms and berries, but with pleasure slowly pours down his throat bourbon whiskey, which contains more fusel than in Sumy potato moonshine and which makes a person sick , accustomed to Crimean wines and Armenian cognac, immediately turns inside out.

To be more specific, DIN contains a blank, which is why it is necessary to set the industrial air circulation rate at 2 complete exchanges per hour. As a result, heat loss for ventilation accounts for 60% of the total. We will proceed from the domestic residential standard - 1 exchange/hour and 40% of ventilation heat loss. And in emergency cases (forced heating in abnormal frosts, interruptions in energy supplies), let’s remember the medical minimum: a person needs an average of 7 cubic meters to breathe. m of air per hour.

That is, we are abandoning the unspoken principle “give us a box, and we’ll somehow stuff the batteries in it” and will try to develop a comprehensive CO project in conjunction with a heated building. Let’s set ourselves the priority task of completely reducing unavoidable heat losses, then measures to insulate the house will turn out to be much more effective and cheaper.

Finally, let’s assume that we are not white-handed, and working for ourselves will not be a burden. A typical construction project involves delivery to the customer on a turnkey basis, after which the builders, having received what is due from the owner, leave for another project. It would be a sin for us to spend 3-5 days on setup finished system under the building once and for all. Individual heating, which requires adjustment work, turns out to be simpler, cheaper, more reliable and creates greater comfort than the standard one, modified for an arbitrary layout; In this case, we will be able to narrow down the reserves according to the calculated coefficients.

About two boilers

In the diagram above there are 2 boilers connected in series, in cascade. And identical, i.e. not for main and emergency fuel. For what?

The fact is that heating boilers keep the passport efficiency down to 10-12% of the rated power, then drops sharply. But for forced heating in severe frost, the boiler power must be taken 2-3 times more than calculated according to average climatic indicators. Then the limit of its adjustment drops to 3-5 times, and for complete comfort, adjustment is required during the heating season every 10-20 times, depending on the local climate. So you have to install 2 boilers of rated (design) power: switched on in cascade, they will give just the required power limits without compromising the afterburner reserve.

Note: We will try to save money here too - we will take the main boiler of the calculated capacity with an afterburner reserve, and for a long off-season or abnormal cold we will connect a simple and cheap one using an additional or alternative energy source. You'll have to turn it on/off manually, but we'll put up with it for the sake of saving money.

Things to remember!

There is such a fundamental scientific concept– entropy. It, roughly speaking, means a general desire for disorder. Everything in the world wants to get lost, become littered, gather dust, spread out, crumble, spread out. To maintain order you have to expend some energy. Let’s look at what this means in relation to CO using an example. By the way, entropy was born from thermodynamics.

Let's say it was frosty or increased ventilation was required. The boiler turned up the heat, and then, when the need for afterburner passed, it went down below nominal until the CO cooled down. Since heat loss is always directed outward, forced heating will take more time than reduced CO during cooling. This phenomenon is called thermal hysteresis and is caused by the thermal inertia of the boiler and CO. Where and how the energy of excessively burned fuel goes is an interesting question for a physicist, but requires a long discussion, so let’s just take note: the thermal inertia of CO should be kept as low as possible. In particular, do not use overly powerful boilers.

If, for example, the breadth of the Russian soul buys a boiler with a power 5-7 times greater than the calculated one, then heat loss due to hysteresis will noticeably increase in addition to the decrease in efficiency at the lower power limit, the boiler is large, the volume of its jacket is comparable to the volume of pipes and radiators. And then you have to read on the forums: “They dilute the gas with something! According to heat calculations, the consumption is 170 cubic meters per month, but Buderus consumes 380!” Of course he eats. And where should he go if, instead of the efficiency of 85% honestly deserved in proprietary tests, he is forced to work at barely forty. This does not reduce the amount of water in the shirt.

What to warm up with?

Well, it's time to get down to business. And first of all, let’s figure out what types of heating there are and which one to choose. That is, we choose a coolant, everything else flows from it.

Air

Natural circulation of warm air in the room is created heating stoves. We will return to them briefly at the end, but for now let’s note it as a fact: the heat capacity of air is very small, and for a full air heating Either a large area air heater or a fairly intense convective flow is required.

First case -. The heated air in a room with heated floors has little contact with walls and windows, and its temperature is low. Thermal inertia is very small, because it directly depends on the heat capacity of the coolant. Therefore, heat loss is 1.4-1.7 times lower than when heating with radiators. One thing is bad: it is difficult to push the primary coolant through a long thin tube immured into the floor, so a separate circulation pump. If the electricity goes out, it will stop and the floor will stop heating.

Due to their high efficiency combined with energy dependence, it is advisable to use heated floors in rooms that do not require level temperature regime, but intensively losing heat: in hallways, corridors, halls. It is undesirable in a bedroom or nursery - increased comfort at lower costs does not pay for the risk of sudden cold at night.

The second case is all-air CO from a heater furnace. in the basement through an air duct system. In buildings no higher than 2 floors, air-convection CO can be very economical, but then its efficiency rapidly decreases. It was widely used in antiquity, but already in the Middle Ages, due to the increase in the number of storeys in buildings, it fell out of use. Currently, there is no method for calculating air-convection CO, so its construction is the lot of those who like technical experiments on themselves.

Steam

Heating with superheated water steam under pressure is almost completely devoid of thermal inertia and, other things being equal, allows you to reduce boiler power (and fuel consumption) by 20-30% However, the use of steam CO is permitted only in industrial premises with continuous qualified supervision and care of the system: the probability of an accident is significant, superheated steam is extremely, even fatal, and traumatic , and steam radiators heat up to 120-140 degrees. The assembly of steam CO is complex and time-consuming, because only possible material for system components – steel.

Water and antifreeze

To date The best option for a private residential building is water heating: The heat capacity of water is greater than that of most other liquids, which makes CO more compact, but its viscosity is low. This allows you to achieve a small thermal inertia by accelerating the circulation of the coolant in the system; how - more on this later. Plastics can be used to build water CO, which makes work easier and reduces additional heat loss.

As for solutions of ethylene glycol in water - antifreeze - their thermal properties are no worse. But antifreezes are expensive and toxic, so careful and durable sealing of the system is required. In addition, the choice of boiler type is limited and its piping becomes more expensive, because the use of emergency discharge of overheated coolant into the sewer system is excluded.

It is advisable to use CO with antifreeze in temporarily inhabited buildings, say, rented out in winter. But then they will need to provide an independent power supply - the piping of antifreeze boilers is, as a rule, electromechanical and controlled electronically. The CO itself will also be more expensive: its fittings must be designed for the sub-zero temperature range, and the design must prevent the deposition of water condensate from the outside air.

What to heat with?

The second main issue is fuel for the boiler. The most economical option is gas heating using natural gas.. In terms of the ratio of energy intensity and price, it has no equal yet. 1 kJ from liquefied bottled propane-butane costs about three times more, in addition, 30 kg of gas in a standard 50 liter cylinder per day is enough only south of Rostov-on-Don. Electricity as the main energy carrier is also not an option yet: its energy release, taking into account the efficiency of the system, is 0.95 kW of heat per 1 kW from the network, and costs 1 kW/h 3 rubles.

Note: in some cases, the use of stationary electrical heating appliances may still be justified, see below.

But then how to heat it if the house is without gas? Let’s solve this problem this way: we’ll determine the required total fuel energy reserve for the season as a whole, based on it and the energy intensity (calorific value) of the fuel, the volume of its purchase, and then, based on local prices, we’ll decide what kind of fuel the boiler is needed for. The same technique applies to the emergency additional boiler.

Note: The calorific value of wood is highly dependent on its moisture content. When wood is dampened from room-dry (15% humidity) to stored in an open woodpile (60% humidity), the calorific value drops by 2.5 times.

Calorific value different types fuel, see table on the right. Wood fuel is assumed to be room-dry. More precisely, the local type of fuel can be determined by its supplier and/or municipal heating engineers. To bring the boiler power to it, you need to remember that 1 W = 1 J/s. That is, let’s first determine how many kW the boiler should develop on average per heating season:

P = (ξp)/η (1),

where η is the rated efficiency of the boiler;

ξ – seasonal boiler power utilization factor.

For Moscow ξ = 0.5, towards Arkhangelsk it increases proportionally to 0.79, and towards Krasnodar it also proportionally drops to 0.35.

Now we multiply P (in kilowatts) by 3.6 (so many kiloseconds per hour) and by 24, the number of hours in a day, to obtain the average daily energy consumption of CO:

e(kJ) = 86.4t(1000s)*P(kW) (2),

and, multiplying it by the duration of the heating season in days, we obtain the total seasonal energy requirement for heating E. Dividing it by the calorific value of the fuel Q, we obtain the purchase weight of the fuel in kilograms:

M(kg) = E(kJ)/Q(kJ/kg) (3),

well, everyone knows how many kilograms are in a ton. All that remains is to compare prices and decide which will be cheaper.

Note: Sometimes reference books give the calorific value of fuel in kilocalories (kcal) per kg. The conversion to joules is simple: 1 J = 0.2388 cal, and 1 cal = 4.3 J.

Gas consumption is calculated in the same way, only everywhere instead of kilograms there will be cubic meters. To get the average monthly gas consumption (this may be necessary when laying out family budget), we simply divide the total consumption by the number of months in the heating season.

Note: in online directories, heat loss calculators, trade declarations, etc., you can find the calorific value in kW/kg or kW/cub.m. Do not believe this data - a watt and its derivatives are units of power, energy release per unit of time. If it is not immediately indicated how long the fuel was burned, that such figures were obtained, this is a fool’s letter. To calculate the amount of fuel and its costs, you need to know the total energy release, regardless of the time of its use, because We pay for energy, not for power. How can it be determined if it is not known how long these kilowatts were emitted? If 1 kg of fuel burns completely in 1 s, developing a power of 1 kW, then the energy in this kilogram is 1 kJ. And if it burned with the same power for 1 hour, then 3600 kJ or 3.6 MJ of energy was released. By default, it is assumed that we mean (kWh)/kg, then the same unit of energy comes out, with the same dimension as the joule. But the traders, having secretly removed the *ch (like a typo), shamelessly enter any fraudulent nonsense into the column, and there is no way to check it.

Heating in the house

We will calculate heating for our home in the following order:

• Let's sketch out a preliminary design of the house, based on available funds and a building plot.
• We will zoning the house according to the degree of required comfort of the premises.
• Let's find the heat loss for each room separately.
• If necessary, if a design project is being developed for a new building, we will finalize the preliminary design.
• We will place heating devices in the rooms: radiator batteries and, possibly, additional stationary heaters.
• Also, for each room we will determine the total thermal power of the radiators, and from it the required number of sections.
• We will select a system for constructing the CO and a circuit for distributing the coolant, and based on them, additional correction factors for calculating the boiler power. Here we will decide what we will do ourselves, and for what we will have to hire craftsmen.
• Let us calculate, using the main (mandatory) and additional coefficients, the required boiler power.

After this, it remains to calculate the footage and nomenclature of pipes, the number and nomenclature of connectors, valves, automation devices, the nature and scope of work, the required tools and materials, etc. Based on the calculation data, an estimate for the construction of the plant is drawn up, but this is the subject of a separate serious discussion. Here we will limit ourselves to calculating the boiler, because The methodology for calculating fuel consumption has already been given above.

Comfort zones

The basis for economical energy consumption for heating is careful zoning of the house according to the required/permissible degree of comfort of the rooms. A private homeowner, not constrained by standard standards and the cost of paying specialist designers, can be recommended to zoning a building that is more detailed than is customary for mass development for potential buyers, but which saves more heat:

1. Complete comfort zone – temperature range 22-24 degrees, no more than 2 external walls. This includes, (especially –), rooms for elderly parents, Gym, and so on.
2. Sleeping area – except , these are rooms general purpose where everything is concentrated personal life their inhabitants: guest rooms, servants' rooms, premises for rent. Temperature range – 21-25 degrees.
3. Living area - dining room, office for mental work, hostess's boudoir, etc. Temperature range - according to sanitary standards, 18-27 degrees.
4. Economic zone - here people actively work, fully dressed for the season. Most likely, there are sources of additional heating. This includes the kitchen, home workshop, winter Garden and so on. The upper limit of temperature is not standardized; the lower limit, in the absence of people, can drop to 15-16 degrees.
5. Temporary use area, or passage area - staircase, garage, etc. Because Since people appear here casually and in outerwear, the lower temperature limit is set at 12 degrees. For heating, it is advisable to use heated floors or ceiling infrared (IR) emitters; see about them below, in the section on electric heating. Heating radiators are emergency ones that turn on temporarily to protect the boiler from overheating.
6. Utility zone - no heat sources are installed in the premises of this zone, the temperature range is not standardized at all, as long as it is above zero. Heating is carried out due to heat transfer from neighboring rooms. You can also install emergency CO radiators here.

Layout

If the CO is designed for an already built house, then nothing can be done - you will have to zone what is there and the heat loss will be whatever it turns out to be. But still less than according to standard calculation methods. If the CO fits into the house at the preliminary design stage, then you need to be guided by the following rules:

• A comfortable room should have no more than 2 external walls, i.e. no more than 1 external corner. Heat loss through corners is maximum.
• For a boiler, even a wall-mounted one, it is better to allocate a separate room, this will increase its average seasonal efficiency. Minimum requirements for fire regulations– volume from 8 cubic meters. m, ceiling height from 2.4 m, there must be an opening window with an area of ​​10% of the boiler room floor area, a free flow of air is required either through a gap under the door of 40 mm, or through a grille with an air filter in it (preferably), or through supply valves from the street. In the boiler room, a separate chimney is required, which does not communicate with the general ventilation and other smoke ducts (say, with the chimney of a fireplace). Finishing is made of non-combustible materials, partitions with adjacent rooms are not less than brick (27 cm).
• It is advisable to locate the rooms of the 1st zone adjacent to the boiler room (furnace room) in order to more fully utilize the waste heat of the boiler. But the door to the boiler room must be made either from the street or from rooms in non-residential areas - utility room, passage, utility room, except for the garage.
• It is preferable to locate the bathroom either adjacent to the boiler room or closer to the center of the building.
• The premises of the utility, passage and utility areas should be located in the corners, near the windward, northern or north-eastern walls.
• In addition, it is advisable to use rooms in the utility zone as thermal buffers between zones 1-3 and 5-6.

Examples of standard (according to standard, but wisely applied standards) and non-standard planning solutions are shown in Fig. Designations: G - living room, S - master bedroom, D - children's room, KR - room of the owners' parents (for grandmother), K - kitchen, Cab - owner's study, Tl - toilet, Vn - bathroom, Gr - dressing room, P - hallway , T – furnace (boiler room), Ch – closet, X – hall, F – lantern over the hall made of polycarbonate on flat roof, Gar - garage.

Both houses have total area less than 150 sq. m, and 4 acres are enough for construction, and there is still room for a lawn and garden in the backyard. However, not every wealthy city dweller can afford a living room of 30-35 square meters and a bedroom of 15-20 square meters.

The house on the left is for a family with an established way of life and traditional thinking. The nursery was taken to the corner, and grandmother's room was taken to the furnace room because the first-born was strong, and it was useful for the old lady to warm the bones. If the grandmother, in her own words, lives in the world until she needs a second nursery, the owner agrees to give her the office.

The house on the right is for a young independent family. Thanks to the rather large irregularly shaped hall, it was possible to shove (as the designer put it) the doors into the rooms and push the bathroom into the center of the building. The roof of the built-in garage (it is not on a plinth and its ceiling is lower) is more than 1.5 m lower than the roof of the house. By the time the parents pay off the mortgage and need a second nursery, the plan is to build a one-and-a-half-story building over the garage with one large room and give it to the eldest daughter.

Heat loss calculation

We will calculate the heat loss of rooms 1-4 as usual, without taking into account the internal heat exchange in the building. We will count 5 and 6 for all 4 walls, or even for all 5-6 walls, if we are talking about a non-standard layout. For the calculation, we will need, in addition to knowledge of the structure of the wall and the thickness of its constituent layers in meters, the following values:

1. Thermal resistance of materials Rt or specific heat loss of materials qп.
2. The average temperature in January (or the coldest month in your area), can be found from the local weather service or on the website of Roshydromet, or on the website of the local municipality.
3. Average temperature for winter, information – there.
4. Seasonal boiler power utilization factor, already used above.

Note: Specific heat losses are sometimes given in kcal/m*hour, then they need to be converted to W/m^2, using the relationships between joule and calorie and between joule and watt.

In standard design, heat loss calculations are carried out according to their specific values and the temperature of the coldest week of the year. The results are quite accurate for large multi-storey buildings(tables of specific heat loss, generally speaking, are developed separately for buildings of similar design). A small private house's heat needs to be calculated based on the thermal resistance of the materials. Based on specific heat losses, it is possible for a private owner to calculate with sufficient accuracy the heat outflow through cold attic and the front door.

Some calculation data are shown in Fig. But, generally speaking, Rt and qп should be taken from the specification for the material. For the same brick and foam plastic, they differ significantly not only from manufacturer to manufacturer, but also from batch to batch. If the supplier does not show the material passport or there is no Rt or qp in it, it is better to buy somewhere else. This is the case when the miser pays not twice, but throughout his life.

The actual calculation is simple: we multiply the table value of Rt for of this material by the thickness of its layer in meters, we take the inverse value from the result, this is nothing more than the thermal conductivity of this layer, and multiply it by the area of ​​the calculated surface and by the temperature difference (temperature gradient) on both sides of it; if there are several layers in the way of heat different materials(for example, plaster-brick-insulation), then the Rt of each layer is added up. As a result, we obtain the heat loss flow from the room in watts Qp. If the calculation is carried out using specific heat loss qp, we multiply their tabular value by the temperature difference and surface area, but calculating a multilayer based on qp is already more difficult; for this they need to be converted to Rt.

Calculations are carried out separately for walls, floors, ceilings, windows and doors. For the maximum temperature gradient ΔT we take the minimum permissible room temperature, and for its minimum:

• For walls and windows - the average January temperature divided by the seasonal boiler power utilization factor ξ.
• For the ceiling - the average daily temperature of the coldest week of winter, as calculated by specific heat loss.
• For the floor - the average winter temperature of the area.

From the point of view of standard design, this method is a complete heresy. But we will take into account a circumstance that does not apply in high-rise buildings, namely: the draft of the boiler in a small private house provides a ventilation minimum of air exchange with a large excess. Then, as we are our own masters in our own home, we let air into the boiler room in 2 ways: through the gap under the door from the kitchen or a grille with a filter above the floor in the toilet/bathroom, and from the street through valves in the outer wall.

In moderate cold weather, the boiler room valves are closed. Suddenly an abnormal frost strikes, we open them, limit the air flow to the boiler from the house or completely block it. We provide a “breathing” of at least 7 cubic meters per hour per person in the old-fashioned way: with vents or, more modernly, ventilation valves in the rooms. There is no European quality of life here, but closing/opening the valves is no more difficult or difficult than frying an egg. Which Europe also eats. And with such a construction of a heating system, the cost of heating a private house is lower than the monthly fee for heat in a city apartment - a reality. Finally, if the owner has his head and hands in place, then who is stopping him from equipping the valves with temperature automatics? Then everything will be fine with the quality of life.

Installing batteries

Which?

There are 4 types of heating radiators on sale:

1. Thin-walled steel is the cheapest.
2. Aluminum.
3. Bimetallic steel-aluminum is the most expensive.
4. Cast iron, but not the old “accordions”, but profiled ones.

The first ones are more suitable for regions with mild winter and a short heating season. With intense combustion, they can corrode, and with it, water hammers are possible in the system, which thin steel cannot withstand.

Aluminum batteries transfer heat well and provide low thermal inertia of the system; The thermal conductivity of aluminum is very high, and the heat capacity is low. But they are fragile, in regions with sudden changes in weather they can leak from water hammer. In addition, they do not mate well with metal pipelines; the coefficient of thermal expansion (TCE) of aluminum is high. It is best to use them in regions north of the black earth strip, where winters are consistently cold, then the disadvantages of aluminum do not affect them.

In bimetallic radiators aluminum sections strung on a thin durable core made of special steel. Bimetal has no technical disadvantages; bimetallic batteries can be used anywhere without restrictions, but they are very expensive.

Cast iron is eternal, completely ignores water hammer, and is second only to steel in terms of cheapness. However, it is heavy and requires an assistant. And most importantly, it has a very high heat capacity for a metal. The thermal inertia of CO and heat losses in it due to hysteresis will be large.

Note: All the tricks described above and below for saving heat in a system with “cast iron” are invalid. It should be considered as standard.

Radiator calculations

Calculating batteries for rooms is simple: divide the previously found heat loss value by the thermal power of one section, multiply by a safety factor of 1.2 and round to the nearest largest integer, we get the number of sections per room. But please note: it does not say “for the rated capacity of the section.”

The fact is that the nameplate power is given for a supply temperature of 90 degrees and a return temperature of 70 degrees. In high-rise buildings this is optimal. But our CO is not so large and we can reduce the supply/return temperature ratio to 80/60 degrees. You can’t do less, if the return flow cools below 50 degrees, then either the boiler bypass will work (see below) and money for heat will go down the drain, or, even worse, acidic condensate may form in the boiler, which can quickly and completely disable it. What will we achieve with this? Less heat loss from batteries directly into the walls. Significantly smaller, because The heat transfer of a heated body is proportional to the 4th degree of its temperature.

This means that in order to correctly calculate the batteries, we need to recalculate their power to a smaller temperature range. The passport temperature ratio is 90/70 = 1.2857, and ours is 80/60 = 1.3333. The correction factor for batteries will be (1.2857/1.3333)^4 = 0.865. We multiply the rated power of the section by it for calculation.

Where to put it?

Placing batteries is also a delicate matter and requires ingenuity. Take a look at pos. And the drawing there is typical, in the niches under the windows. That's right, by the way thermal curtain in front of the window greatly reduces losses through it. Estimated values: bedroom – 4 sections, living room – 8, children’s room – 6.

Now let's go up to level 1 of ingenuity, pos. B. There are still 8 sections left in the living room, 2 by 4. And the heat curtain was not damaged: it is created by stacking flows from 2 batteries. But their rears are no longer warm outer wall, and a partition, so that in the nursery there are enough 4 sections. 2 – saved, and not only in terms of purchases, but also in terms of boiler power, see below.

Are radiators on the side walls unsightly? And instead of the usual window sill we will put a figured one, as they say - creative, shown with a green dotted line. You can grow plants on it, arrange a work area, etc. At pos. B is an option that is interesting for, for example, the Southern Federal District and Ciscaucasia. There are no radiators in the living room at all (comfort zone 3), and IR emitters in the form of paintings (more on them later), set to 18 degrees, are hung on the walls. Another 8 sections have been saved, and the electricity consumption for IR heating is half as much as the savings on gas.

Note: This is also affected by the fact that a person emits an average of 60 W of heat. Batteries don’t sense it, but IR image sensors do.

About battery shielding

In most cases, batteries will still have to be installed in window sill niches. Then the losses from them directly into the wall can be reduced significantly by applying, see the figure on the right. The aero visor and the hot air injector are bent from sheet metal or thin galvanized steel, and the IR reflector will be covered with a piece of fiber insulation foiled on both sides.

Choosing a system

Here you need to know that the thermal inertia of CO is smaller, the faster water circulates in it. And the speed of its circulation, in turn, depends on the pressure in the system. As far as the strength of pipes and batteries allows (taking into account the possibility of water hammer), the pressure should be increased.

Open or closed?

Until recently, open or atmospheric COs (on the left in the figure below) were built everywhere; they are simple and require a minimum of materials. Now build new COs open type In most countries it is prohibited for the following main reasons, besides which there are many others:

1. To create a pressure of 1 atm (excess atmosphere), which is approximately equal to 1 bar, you need to raise the expansion tank by 10.5 m.
2. The expander requires a large volume, which increases the inertia of the CO and the risk of water hammer.
3. Regardless of any insulation of the expander, its heat loss is unacceptably high.
4. Open CO requires regular care and deaeration.

Closed COs are more complex and costly to build, but they meet modern requirements and can operate without supervision for an unlimited time. General scheme closed CO is shown on the right in Fig:

Its part to the right of the sections marked A-A is quite accessible to self-made. What is to the left is actually the boiler piping. This is a separate topic, firstly. Secondly, as many lines of boilers are on sale, there are so many fittings for them, described in detail in the company’s specifications. Therefore, we indicate only, for orientation, the purpose of its parts:

• T1 – bypass (bypass, shunt) of the boiler. If the return temperature drops to 50 degrees, thermal valve 10 is triggered by sensor 12 and transfers part of the water from the supply to the return. Valve 5 closes the bypass if the heating is switched to the emergency backup electric boiler VIN (see below and below) 14.
• T2 – circulation pump bypass (simply pump) 6. Triggered by supply thermometer 3 (the same thermometer is desirable on the return) in case of supply overheating due to pump malfunction or power failure. In this case, CO goes into a weakly heating and uneconomical, but energy-independent thermosiphon mode.
• 2 – system pressure gauge.
• 4 – storage vessel (thermal damper), necessary to prevent water hammer. Most often combined with DHW boiler, because The CO is not connected to it directly, but by a heat exchanger coil. If operation of the CO from an alternative energy source (AI) 13 is provided, then a second coil is built into the damper if the AI ​​is a solar collector (SC), or a low-voltage heating element if the AC is solar battery(SB).
• 7 – heating radiators.
• 15 – air drain valve, installed at the highest point of the system.
• 8 – distribution and collection manifolds, needed to prevent water hammer due to the difference in water pressure along the height of the floor. The number of distributing/collecting pipes is based on the number of floors. They are located approximately in the middle of the building's height. Not needed in a one-story house.
• 9 – membrane expansion vessel with emergency technological release of water into the sewer. Serves to compensate for thermal expansion of the coolant.
• 11 – CO replenishment from the water supply. In the simplest case - a float valve and a sediment filter. If the water is bad, additional equipment for its preparation is installed. The water preparation system for hot water supply is not shown, because does not apply to CO.
• 14 – emergency-standby vortex induction heater VIN Operates from the house electrical network or from AI-SB through a DC/AC 220V 50/60 Hz inverter.

How to distribute heat?

Schemes for distributing coolant to heating devices are, firstly, dead-end and reversible. In the first, the water flow is closed only through radiators, heated floors, heated towel rails, etc. Secondly, there is a partial direct flow of water from the supply to the return. Revolving circuits have the lowest thermal inertia, minimum pipes and allow operation of the boiler without a bypass, because the excessively cooling return itself draws the hot supply from the batteries to itself, but they work well only with very long branches (beams) of the supply/return, therefore they are used mainly in large industrial premises: workshops, warehouses.

About Lenigradka

In this case, Leningradka is not a variety card game preference, and the so-called. Leningrad heat distribution scheme, see fig.

Scheme of SO "Lenigradka"

Leningradka is extremely simple, it requires a record small number of pipes, and the distribution branches in private houses are often comparable in length to industrial ones. Therefore, Lenigradka has recently been actively discussed in RuNet. You can watch the video below for more details.

Video: Leningradka heating system

• Single-pipe - the batteries are connected in series, a single pipe goes only to the return.
• Two-pipe - batteries are connected in parallel between the supply and return pipes.
• Combined - successive sections (omissions) are included as separate batteries in two-pipe scheme.

One pipe

A single-pipe system (see figure) requires the least amount of materials for construction.

However, it is not widespread due to the following disadvantages:

• Pump P and boiler bypass T are required even in open CO.
• Damper-accumulator A requires a large capacity, from 150 liters, which increases the thermal inertia of CO.
• Adjusting the batteries is interdependent: if there are more than 3 of them on the beam and they are all different, then you can spend half a season adjusting the CO. Moreover, expensive three-way bypass valves are needed.
• The batteries themselves heat unevenly, because of this they are prone to self-airing (the solubility of gases in water increases as the temperature drops), so each radiator needs a separate air drainage.
• The pump needs twice the usual power, from 40-50 W for every 10 kW of boiler power.

Two pipes

A two-pipe scheme (see figure) requires more pipes, but less fittings, so in terms of materials it is not much more expensive than a single-pipe scheme, only it requires more work.

Damper capacity – from 50 liters. Some types of gas boilers, when operating in a two-pipe circuit with a beam length of up to 12-15 m, allow operation without a bypass. The adjustment of the radiators is practically independent; only one air vent is needed. The most common scheme.

Combi

The combined circuit, see Fig., is almost completely unknown to typical “heater operators”, because For one-story houses is not suitable, and with more than 2 floors it combines the disadvantages of one- and two-pipe.

But just in a 2-story house, although a circulator with a bypass is required here, it has the advantages of both:

• Damper - from 50 l, like a 2-pipe.
• If the upper distribution line M is made from a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm or more and runs under the ceiling (it can be hidden under a cornice or plasterboard false ceiling), then a damper is not needed at all.
• If, when planning a building, heating devices of approximately the same power are brought into depressions, then the entire descent can be adjusted with one simple ball valve, because The heat loss of the second floor through the ceiling is greater than that of the first floor through the floor.

The “combi-two-story” system has only one drawback: there is no standard calculation method. To develop it correctly, you need a lot of experience and professional flair.

Wiring

There are 2 piping schemes for devices: contour (on the left in the figure) and radial-beam, also on the right. They have no obvious advantages over each other. The beam pipe requires a slightly smaller meter of pipes if the boiler room is in the center of the house, but this will work out depending on the layout. In general, if you design in good conscience or for yourself, and not for the sake of more money, then you need to stop at the contour one: what if something happens to the pipes, the floor will have to be broken at the wall, and not in the middle of the room.

About pipes

The best pipes for CO are propylene. Durability has been proven by 30 years of experience; they do not require additional thermal insulation when walled or in grooves. They are not only indifferent to water hammer, but also absorb it, because plastic has little elasticity and is very viscous, and the tensile strength of propylene is better than that of other steels. According to TKR, they are perfectly compatible with any metals, i.e. aluminum batteries for propylene pipes can be used anywhere. They are not overly expensive, and assembly is simple: you just need to know how to handle a soldering iron for propylene, which you can do. The resistance to water flow is very small, which, at the same pressure in the CO, will give faster circulation and less thermal inertia.

Steel isn't so bad either: it lasts forever and is cheap. But it’s difficult to work with: you need welding, a powerful pipe bender, etc. Copper is eternal, you can work with it on your knees: a pipe cutter, a pipe bender, a mandrel for flaring the ends and scraping (rimer) require small hand tools. It is connected by soldering, which is also easy. However, copper is very expensive, it requires insulation of pipes even when passing through walls and ceilings, and it resists water hammer worse than aluminum. In general, for the rich and ambitious: I have copper, not something like that! Why not gold or silver? They are stronger and more expensive.

Anecdote from the 90s: Two new Russians meet: “Oh, bro, you have a new tie!” - Yes, I just gave you 300 bucks! “Listen, you’ve gone astray!” There’s a boutique around the corner, they sell exactly the same ones for 500.”

We exclude metal-plastic altogether. Claims that it can be installed with one adjustable wrench are either lies or ignorance. You need special tools, the same as for copper. Then, as much as possible permissible temperature PVC coverings – 80 degrees. And the most important thing is that the fittings (special connecting fittings) leak, even if you crack, and so far not a single manufacturer has managed to cope with them. In CO this is fraught not so much with leakage, but with airing in the full speed ahead, which threatens a real disaster.

About slopes

Any CO will at some point have to work on a thermosiphon, without a pump. To ensure that the boiler does not overheat and the rooms are warm enough, the installation of the supply and return must be carried out with slopes of 5 mm/m, see fig. on right. “Professional” hacks often neglect this, hoping for a thermogradient pressure in the pipes, but for yourself, of course, it’s better to try and do it reliably.

Boiler calculation

Now you can take on the boiler. With the described approach to designing a heating system, we do not ask questions about the insufficiency/excess of its thermal power compared to that of radiators (and these are subtle and complex questions). Forced heating, if necessary, will be provided by a supply temperature reserve (we lowered it), but more or less normal operation on a thermosiphon - with an accumulator and pipe slope. Then the boiler power is easily calculated:

• We add up the power of all heating devices supplied with water from the boiler.
• We multiply by 1.4, we took into account 40% of heat loss for ventilation.
• We divide the result by the seasonal power utilization factor.
• We divide the second result by the efficiency of the pre-selected boiler.
• We select the nearest one with higher power from the chosen line of boilers.
• If its efficiency is lower than predetermined, we repeat the calculation; You may have to take a more powerful boiler or a different manufacturer.

For example, for the houses described above, with proper insulation, the total heat loss will be about 8 kW without ventilation. The power of all radiators and other heaters was 9.5 kW. Then: (9.5*1.4)/(0.5*0.85) = 31.3 kW. We choose a 30 kW boiler, and a 3 kW VIN for it. According to a typical calculation, the output was 40 kW in the form of 2 20 kW boilers, which cost twice as much as one 30 kW with VIN.

Video: example of heating a private house with an area of ​​300 sq.m.

Attention: the editors are not responsible for the content and quality of the video!

Electric heating

Here we are not talking about electric boilers; electricity is expensive and you can install them only if there is no fuel at all. We will talk about additional water heating and heating devices. Electric heating with their help in the off-season it can be cheaper than solid or liquid fuel.

VIN

The design of the VIN, which was mentioned above, is an electrical transformer with a short-circuited secondary winding, which is also a magnetic circuit. The product contains a section of steel pipe, onto which a primary winding made of thick copper bus, see fig. Eddy currents (Foucault currents from school physics) are induced in the secondary, partially in the water, and heat it. VINs are eternal and are distinguished by a rare “oakiness”: they are not afraid of even a lightning strike and the nightmare of all electricians - zero burnout at the substation.

But their main advantage is zero thermal inertia. The contact area of ​​the secondary with water is thousands of times larger than that of a heating element, and its volume in the pipe is hundreds of times less than in the boiler tank. Due to this, if in the off-season, when the fuel boiler is still breathing at low efficiency, you turn it off and turn on the VIN, then the costs of electric heating will be less than the costs of coal and comparable to gas ones.

This is due to the fact that the VIN is indifferent to the return temperature. There is no flame in the furnace, no exhaust gases, acid vapors simply have nowhere to come from. You can reduce the supply temperature to at least 40 degrees, almost completely eliminating induced heat losses (they, as we remember, are proportional to the 4th power of the battery temperature). In this case, the fuel boiler will burn fuel in vain to distill water through the bypass.

IR paintings

IR heaters have also already been mentioned. They come in 2 types: film (on the left in the figure) and LED (IR pictures), also in the center and on the right. The first ones are relatively cheap, these are the same electric fireplaces, only low-temperature ones. They are not very economical and are suitable for temporary local heating, say, in a country house. They are dangerous in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity.

Infrared heaters - pictures

IR paintings are a different matter. They are essentially digital photo frames, i.e. The image can be changed and stored in your memory. But in IR pictures, each pixel contains, in addition to color (R, G and B) emitters, infrared emitters. The efficiency of IR LEDs is high, but the main thing is that the radiation directivity is also high; back and to the sides they hardly warm up. The desired temperature in the room is set from the remote control. Therefore, IR pictures can be used to economically heat rooms of 4-6 zones or even 2-3 in warm areas. The only bad thing is that these devices are very expensive.

Note: IR emitters are also available without a picture, ceiling-mounted ones for heating garages and utility rooms. They are cheaper, but not much.

alternative energy

In the Russian Federation and generally higher than the subtropics in geographical latitude solar alternative heating as the main one in the foreseeable future has little prospects: insolation in winter on a clear day does not exceed 300 W/sq. m. Taking into account the efficiency of energy converters, a panel area of ​​tens and hundreds of square meters is required. m, which is unrealistic in private houses. For example, the cheapest of the proposed energy-independent houses, with 26 square meters of residential ( common room and a tiny bedroom + a small kitchenette and a combined bathroom, like in a railway carriage), costs more than $500,000.

(APU) are also more expensive good home and require a large area for installation, and land is becoming more expensive. In addition, the winds in Russia are generally not strong. Of some interest solar collectors, because you can do them yourself. But homemade hot water is provided only in the summer. Branded models that heat water up to 70 degrees in winter are literally crammed with the wonders of high technology and are very expensive.

The structure of the solar collector is shown in Fig. in the center. The panel body, made of gas-tight material, is carefully sealed and equally carefully insulated on all sides except the front. The inside is blackened together with the coil with a special paint that absorbs thermal radiation well and is closed with a 2-5 layer glass unit with sealant. The glass is also special, heat-reflecting. The panel is then filled with argon or carbon dioxide under pressure, the more the better. Branded models with an internal pressure of more than 10 bar are known. This design creates a strong greenhouse effect; The CPL of collectors reaches 78%

Solar cells are a layer of high-purity silicon on a conductive substrate, onto which current-collecting tracks are deposited in a vacuum, on the right in Fig. Electricity is generated due to the photoelectric effect in the semiconductor silicon. The cheapest batteries are made of polycrystalline silicon, but their efficiency is only a few percent; they are suitable for powering a radio while camping and recharging AA batteries.

Batteries made of monocrystalline silicon (monosilicon) are used as AI for heating; their efficiency is up to 30% or more. They are steadily becoming cheaper, and when installed on the roof (on the left in the figure) in the Moscow region they are capable of developing a power of up to 3-5 kW in winter on a cloudy day, which is enough to power a VIN through an inverter. In general, the matter is promising and needs to be monitored. Moreover, to connect the VIN, you do not need to redo the CO.

Lastly about stoves

Stove heating certainly creates a healthy microclimate in the house, because... a brick oven breathes and maintains optimal air humidity during temperature fluctuations. You can force yourself to breathe and metal stoves, covering them with steatite mats or simply mineral cardboard. And building a furnace will cost no more than good water CO.

Installing a heating system is an expensive job. In addition to consumables, you need to pay a hefty sum to the equipment installers. Many people are looking for how to make heating for a private house with their own hands, diagrams for connecting devices and other aspects of this difficult process. Let's study this issue in detail and decide how feasible this is.

Types of heating systems depending on fuel

All types of heating can be divided according to power sources. Currently, in addition to traditional fuels, alternative sources are used. This includes solar energy, hydrogen heating, wind turbines and much more. Inventors and sellers convince that the cost of installing expensive equipment will pay off quickly. Let's get a look.

Heating a private mansion

Solar power plants and wind generators for a private home

If you are determined to install a solar power plant, then it would be a good idea to understand what it is, how to operate this system, and how much it will cost.

In every major city there are companies selling and installing solar electrical equipment. You will be offered a power plant costing from 15 thousand rubles, and along with it an installation manual, after reading which any master will breathe freely - it’s simple and cheap. Don't get too excited in advance! For 15 thousand you can turn on a couple of LED lamps and a TV, there’s no talk of heating or even a microwave. By the way, this amount does not include solar collectors and many auxiliary parts.

Installation of solar panels

How much do solar panels cost? The cost of the simplest, monocrystalline ones is from 3,000 rubles per piece. We did the calculations, and it turned out that installing equipment on a private house of 150 square meters, in which it will be possible to connect an electric boiler or a convector heating circuit, will pay for itself in 7-10 years. And it will cost from 500 thousand to one and a half million rubles! The manufacturer's warranty on the panels is 50 years, but the equipment is only 2-3 years. In addition, solar energy, even in hot areas, is not 100% generated all year round: for six months you will receive a maximum of half of the possible electricity. The reason for this is the seasonal sun and nothing can be done about it. Before such equipment pays for itself, you will spend money on heating using conventional energy sources. And when it pays off, we will still have to use these sources, because we need heating precisely during the least sunny season. To its credit, installing solar equipment is really not difficult.

Detailed connection diagram for solar equipment

Maintaining solar panels is a hassle. You will have to wipe the collectors after each rain or cover them with special curtains.

With wind generators the picture is even more depressing. Windmills will not be useful everywhere.

The situation is approximately the same with other alternative sources of heat and light. Therefore, after a little analysis, we will move on to reliable and cheaper types of fuel.

Scheme for wind generators

Gas heating sources are divided into:

1. Main pipeline.
2. Separate container on site for liquefied gas- gas tank.
3. Gas cylinder.

If you need to maintain the summer warmth country house on rare Sundays, but cool days, you can use a gas cylinder. For big house it's too expensive and inconvenient.

Installation of a gas tank in a private house

• Pros and cons of installing a gas tank for a private home

If there is no main line, but you really want to have gas heating, then you can use this option. The cost of delivering liquefied gas is different for all regions: on average from 18 to 22 rubles per liter. To service a house of 150 sq. you will need an average of 28 liters. per 1 sq.m. area per year, which is approximately 4200 liters. When multiplied by average cost 20 rubles per liter comes out to 84,000 rubles. Is this a lot or a little if you add the cost of storage capacity and the entire heating system in the house? It’s difficult to say, because winters in each region have different temperatures. We can definitely say that this is cheaper than many other heat sources. In addition, it is a clean source of fuel, and gas boilers can be safely installed within the home.

Gas boiler in the house

Is it possible to save money by installing gas heating yourself? You can do the pipework and that's it. Connection and permission are made by the appropriate services. This is especially true for the main pipeline. After all, cutting into a highway must have permission. Self-connection is not only prohibited, but also very dangerous. Despite all the difficulties, heating with natural gas is the cheapest today, and you can definitely do half the work yourself.

Electric heating of a private house

Electric heating can be:

1. Infrared.
2. Convection.
3. Heating system "Warm floor".
4. Combined.

Convector device

Many future owners follow the path of least resistance and install electric heating in their homes. It is much easier to install and connect a warm convection or infrared heating circuit if you know at least the basics of electrical engineering. Moreover, the instructions for each heating device contain detailed connection instructions. But heating a private house of 150 square meters with heating devices connected to a common meter is an expensive pleasure. It is enough to calculate the energy consumption of each device per day and multiply it by the cost of electricity in your region.

In addition, you become dependent on the central power supply. It’s an unpleasant story when the lights go out and in thirty-degree frost you are left completely without heat. Air cannons, infrared floors and ceilings, and convection appliances consume huge amounts of electricity. They can be used as a backup source of electrical heating, but not as the main one.

However, a few words need to be said about infrared heating, which is gaining popularity in last years. This is the cheapest type of electric heating for a private home. Infrared heating is based not on heating the air, but on heating objects. For example, an infrared ceiling coating heats the floor, thus ensuring excellent heat circulation in the room.

The principle of ceiling infrared heating

There are quite a few advantages to this heating:

1. Film infrared heating can be installed anywhere: on walls, floors and ceilings. Partial and full coverage is possible. Already 50% of the covered floor area will give the desired temperature in the room.
2. The infrared coating has a sensor that turns off when the temperature reaches the desired level.
3. This type of heating is very economical 50W/1 sq.m.
4. If some part of the coating is damaged, the rest of the surface continues to function.
5. Infrared radiation does not dry out the air and is not harmful to health.
6. Installation of such heating elements is accessible to anyone.

Video instructions for installing PEO infrared heating

Heating with liquid fuel - pros and cons

Those who do not want to constantly throw coal or firewood into the firebox and spend money on electricity opt for liquid diesel fuel. To organize heating of a private house with liquid fuel, a liquid fuel boiler is required.

Heating with diesel fuel has its pros and cons. The advantages are uninterrupted and automated operation and high efficiency. But there are a lot of disadvantages:

1. The boiler and its equipment are quite expensive.
2. Diesel fuel is one of the most expensive types after electricity.
3. Construction required for safe operation separate room equipped with ventilation and a chimney: the smell from burning diesel fuel is very unpleasant.

Boiler for heating a house with solarium

There is another type of liquid fuel - waste oil. If it is possible to take this energy resource somewhere, then you can build an economical stove for mining.

Super economical waste oil stove

Types of solid fuel for heating a home: types and installation of boilers

Solid fuel, as a traditional type of energy resource for heating a private home, has always attracted special attention from heating equipment manufacturers. Today you can choose a solid fuel boiler to suit any need and budget. Let's take a closer look. All boilers are made of steel or cast iron.

• Steel heating boiler

This device has its advantages:

1. Long burning time of one load is 4-8 hours.
2. Fast heating.
3. Low cost of equipment.
4. Aesthetic appearance.

But there are also disadvantages:

1. Service life is 3-5 years.
2. Possibility of rust.
3. Impossibility of repair due to solidity.

Types of solid fuel

• Cast iron boiler

The advantages of this boiler are obvious: high strength, and accordingly, a long service life - up to 25 years; collapsible, which facilitates transportation and allows equipment repair. Cast iron boilers very unpretentious to water quality. The disadvantages include higher cost and sensitivity to temperature changes. Cooling and condensation can be disastrous for this device.

A simple boiler design diagram

Today, boilers are made for several types of fuel, mainly of wood nature: firewood, brown coal, anthracite, pellets (high-quality compressed wood). The most convenient boilers are coal ones, where you can load any type of fuel, since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than that of firewood, so loading firewood into a coal boiler is quite acceptable.

Attention! The main rule for long and safe operation of the boiler is dry fuel and compliance with the rules for loading it!

Scheme of operation of a pyrolysis boiler

Another effective type of fireboxes is pyrolysis or gas generator boilers. They work based on the decomposition of solid fuel and the formation of gas. These are boilers with the most efficient heat transfer, but are quite expensive.

The choice is yours, but you can connect the device yourself. To do this, just study the instruction manual or watch our video material.

Connecting a solid fuel boiler for heating a house

Water heating: diagrams and video instructions

Water heating schemes

Whatever type of fuel is chosen, the installation of a water heating system is done according to standard principles. The boiler works as a heat exchanger, transferring temperature to the coolant - water. This is the basic principle of water heating at home. But which scheme to choose - each owner will decide for himself. The water circulation system can be natural or forced. During natural circulation, water under the influence of heat loses its density and rises along the vertical riser, entering the heating system. Having passed its way through radiators and pipes, the water cools and returns to the boiler. In this scheme, the main thing is the correct slopes of the pipes. If the angles of inclination are not observed, the system will not function.

Scheme of natural coolant circulation

The second water circulation scheme is forced, it works using a circulation pump. The connection diagram is simple.

Scheme forced circulation coolant

In addition to the types of water circulation, water heating schemes are divided into single- and double-circuit. A single-circuit system can operate according to both the first and second principles of coolant circulation. The main thing about it is that the water, heating up in the boiler, goes all the way along one circuit and returns to the boiler. With a double-circuit or two-pipe system, water is supplied to the hot circuit and exits through the cold circuit or return. The second type received greatest application due to the fact that only in this case the radiators on any section of the circuit can have the same temperature.

One- and two-pipe connection circuit

Basic principles of operation of a system with battery capacity

In the process of choosing fuel, boiler, connection diagram and other subtleties of the heating scheme of a private house, the question of economy and safety arises. You can buy an expensive boiler and connect the most modern radiators, but on frosty winter days the fuel runs out catastrophically, and concerns about the reliability of the entire heating system grow. To save energy and relieve the workload of the boiler, a battery or buffer tank was invented in the water heating system. Its role is very well understood in the diagram below: the hot coolant enters the tank and gives it some of the excess heat, then continues its path through the heating system, returning to the container in the form of cold water, which goes back into the boiler.

Heating system with buffer tank

With this connection, the furnace will receive unloading, and you will save fuel, since when the boiler cools down hot water from the battery tank continues to circulate around the circuit.

Heating using a buffer tank

DIY water floors

Water floors save energy well. Everything is explained by the heating temperature of the water circuit. If the battery heats up to at least 75-90 degrees, then the water circuit heats up to no more than 55 degrees. Easy warm air rises and comfortably heats the room.

Comfortable heating of the room using a warm water floor

You can make such a heating system yourself, but you need to remember several of its disadvantages:

1. In severe frosts, you will have to install additional heating sources, since on cold days the heated floor will not cope with heating the room.
2. The thickness of the concrete screed should be at least 10 cm, and preferably from 20 to 30. If you want to install the floor in finished house, you will have to either raise the doors or give up this type of heating.
3. The equipment is much more expensive than radiators and pipes to them.

Water heating scheme with several underfloor heating circuits

There are a few more disadvantages that are remembered only after installation. It is not advisable to install in the place where water heating is installed. heavy furniture, and not just any flooring can be installed. From a medical point of view, a heated floor is not a very successful idea, because constant heating of the legs develops such a terrible disease as varicose veins. But if you still decide to install, then the video material will help you do everything right.

Detailed wizard class on how to make a water floor with your own hands

Warm water walls

Warm walls are designed in the same way as a warm water floor. This type of heating is very popular now in countries Western Europe, in particular in Germany. Heat loss with such heating is minimal, and heating is much cheaper radiator heating. They are made almost the same way, with the exception of the screed. The pipes are attached to the wall and then covered with plasterboard.

This room heating also has its drawbacks: poor air circulation, so when installing warm walls you need to install supply and exhaust ventilation.

Water heating of walls

Skirting water heating system

This system functions the same way as usual scheme radiator-type heating, with the difference that these are special radiators. They are attached along the entire perimeter of the room, and are covered from above plastic panels.

There are many advantages to this design, and they are obvious, but there is one minus - such a radiator may not be enough on particularly cold days to efficiently heat a large room.

Baseboard water radiator

How to choose a heating system

The choice of heating system depends on several factors that need to be carefully considered and the pros and cons weighed.

• The first and main thing is the possibility of such a system paying for itself in the coldest months. Agree that it will be sad not to load the boiler due to lack of money for fuel, or to be unable to pay for electricity by installing electric heating circuits in the form of convectors or infrared heating. Make a detailed calculation of heat and energy consumption per square meter of the house. This must be done before purchasing equipment.
• An important factor when choosing a heating system will be its cost. In some sections we have provided prices for equipment. You can see others on the website of companies selling this type of product. Add installation work here too. You can do many things yourself using our recommendations and diagrams, but some will have to be left in the hands of specialists.
• Before buying a solid fuel boiler, find out the exact calculation of its efficiency per square meter of your home. It’s bad to buy a low-power boiler - you’ll freeze with it, but you don’t need one that’s too powerful. In this case, you will have to waste extra fuel and open the windows even on a frosty day.

Attention! It is impossible to force a solid fuel boiler to reduce productivity by more than 4-5 kW.

When is an installation specialist needed?

After all that has been said, let us summarize some results. You have learned a lot and, probably, read additional literature, but you should not think that even with education, but without experience, you will be able to take absolutely all the steps correctly. A heating equipment installation specialist will be needed in following cases:

• When connecting to a main or gas tank gas supply system. This is required by law and basic safety - gas is no joke. It is better to invite a specialist to install a gas boiler.
• You can install a single-pipe water heating circuit based on diagrams and additional descriptions, but invite a specialist to install a two-pipe system. Together with him you can learn and be confident in the quality of the work.
• When constructing a water floor, a good concrete screed is necessary. If you doubt your abilities, invite a specialist. He will do it faster and more confidently.
• Installing a boiler is a very serious matter. One missing piece and you'll be in trouble. Consulting a specialist will be very useful.

If you want to use our advice and the help of a master in particularly difficult moments, a warm and comfortable home with adequate costs.

Long gone are the days when only a stove could heat a private house. The lack of hot water in sufficient quantities and the need to light the stove and keep it burning did little to facilitate life outside the city. That is why many sought to move to comfortable multi-story houses, where heating and hot water supply were centralized.

Today, a lot has changed - the abundance and range of modern heating equipment allows you to do heating in the house yourself, even without the involvement of specialists. Now, on the contrary, the priority is to live in country houses, since hot water is available all year round, and heating can be turned on at any time, without waiting for a decision from utility services.

In total, there are 3 main energy sources - gas, solid fuel and electricity. We will talk about each of them, as well as how to properly wire the boiler and ensure heat supply to different components, in this article.

You will not be able to purchase the entire heating system in any store. You can select individual elements and assemble them into a system, you can purchase materials and make the boiler and piping entirely yourself. Regardless of which path you decide to go, you must first decide on the following parameters:

• what type of fuel is planned to be used;
• which fuel is more economically feasible.

What home heating systems are there?

The most famous means of heating since time immemorial has been the Russian stove. Among the main disadvantages of such structures today are their large size, which is not always convenient, and uneven heating of the air in the room. It’s very hot near the stove, warm two meters away, cold in the next room. Modern fireplaces, although they have changed over time, in general they act as an analogue of a furnace and therefore can be used exclusively as an auxiliary heat source.

The most popular and effective is a water heating system, where heated coolant circulates through pipes and thereby heats the premises.

Air heating, based on the operation of air heat collectors, is considered no less effective, but practically unknown.

Electric heating can be called a relatively new type, which works by converting electricity into thermal energy, without using any coolant.

Types of boilers

The main task when organizing heating with your own hands is to create an effective system, mostly automatic, with minimal human participation in its operation. Based on the availability of the type of fuel and the appropriateness of its choice, you should purchase a specific type of boiler.

The main classification of boilers depends on the type of fuel:

• gas;
• electric;
• solid fuel;
• combined.

Modern industrial boilers are economical, relatively silent and easy to operate. The main disadvantage of such equipment is its energy dependence, since at the heart of each there is a fan that forces air into the chamber or ensures the movement of the coolant.

The exception applies only to those boilers where it is used. This pump belongs to the category of emergency equipment and runs on a battery. In the absence of electricity, the pump ensures the movement of coolant through the pipes, preventing them from freezing and subsequent rupture.

Heating scheme for a private house

Gas

No matter how often the price of gas is indexed in our country, it still remains the cheapest type of fuel.

Modern gas boilers are silent, easy to operate, and differ in the number of circuits:

• single-circuit - designed only for heating the house

• double-circuit - for heating and hot water supply.

Electric

The safest type of equipment. Capable of heating a room of any size (power 4-300 kW). The only disadvantage of such equipment is the cost of fuel. Electricity has traditionally been the most expensive looking heating compared to gas and solid fuel.

Key benefits include the following:

• large power range of boilers capable of heating up to 350 sq.m. premises on different levels and consisting of several rooms;
• there is no need to organize a chimney and exhaust ventilation- heating occurs by converting electricity into heat, so no combustion products are released;
• environmentally friendly equipment that does not emit any pollutants into the atmosphere;
• compact size and the ability to install in any room without restrictions on square footage and distance;
• there is no need to obtain permits to put equipment into operation.

Even a small house can be heated with electricity only if 3 phases are supplied and the network voltage is absolutely stable.

Boilers also differ in the number of circuits:

• single-circuit - for heating only;
• double-circuit - for heating and water heating.

Solid fuel

This is an improved "hello" from the past, modernized to such an extent that it can be left for a week and the temperature in the house will be comfortable. All solid fuel boilers are based on the Kolpakov principle, when the boiler is first heated, and then the temperature is maintained at a certain level to ensure stability of heating of the coolant.

These boilers are quite different high coefficient useful action, but at the same time they need regular (at least 1-2 times a week) cleaning of combustion products, installation of a chimney, organization of exhaust ventilation and the presence of a separate room.

Advantages of solid fuel equipment:

• a wide range of fuels (firewood, coal, pellets, braces, waste from the woodworking and agricultural industries, etc.);
• high efficiency, in some cases reaching 92%;
• possibility of process automation for long-term combustion units.

To ensure that the heating season does not cause difficulties, it is necessary to prepare in advance a certain amount of fuel sufficient to heat a private home for 2-3 months.

Combined

This type of equipment allows you to rationalize heating costs and ensure constant operation of the boiler, depending on the availability of a particular fuel.

The fundamental difference lies in the combination of solid fuel with other sources - electricity, liquid fuel or gas. Depending on the pair, electric, solid fuel and universal combo boilers are distinguished. The choice depends on what fuel is available in the region.

The transition between alternative sources is carried out by changing burners, which is quite difficult and does not always work out the first time.

Burners are always purchased separately!

When choosing a boiler for a private home, you should understand that this is only a small part of the entire heating system. certainly very important, on which its functioning and maintaining heat in the house will depend, but also a lot depends on the boiler piping, on the organization of the heating and hot water supply system.

Types of heating systems

Depending on what coolant circulates in the system, they practice the following types heating:

• water, where ordinary water acts as the coolant (in some cases, antifreeze can be added);
• air - coolant - air heated to a certain temperature;
• steam - pipes heat steam;
• electrical - electrical appliances (heating elements, infrared emitters etc.);
• combined - organizing heating in such a way that the source is not only the coolant, but also other options;
• "warm floor" system.

Each of the listed methods has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages in relation to each other.

This is the simplest type of heating for a private home, which is easy to do with your own hands. There are no special requirements for operating the system; the main task is to correctly calculate the number of batteries and select the appropriate boiler power.

How to calculate power

There is a universal formula for calculating power:

1 kW of power = 10 m 2 heated area

However, it only works in ideal, one might say, laboratory conditions, very far from reality. When determining the parameter, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics specific house- year of construction, what building materials were used, presence of thermal insulation, type of windows and doors, etc.

So, for example, if a house was built more than 30 years ago, but is insulated, doors and windows are replaced with modern sealed structures, the power should be increased by 1.5 times, that is, by 10 sq.m. take 1.5 kW of area. If the building was built recently, but is not properly insulated, the doors and windows are wooden and draughty, the power should be increased by 2 times.

Power calculation factors

• 2 or more windows on the north side - 1.3;
• 2 or more windows on the south, east and southeast sides - 1.1;
• 2 or more windows on the west side - 1.2.

When organizing water heating, purified water acts as a coolant, which does not need to be drained at the end of the heating season. This closed system, where water circulates under the influence of a pump or by gravity.

Forced coolant circulation

In order to ensure the movement of heated water through the pipes, centrifugal force is needed. As a rule, a circulation pump is used for these purposes, but an ordinary centrifugal pump, only of low power, is quite suitable.

The main task of the pump is to supply cooled water to the boiler to heat it and distribute the already heated coolant throughout the system. Since we are talking about a vicious circle, a constant volume of water circulates through the pipes.

Installation of a circulation pump in the heating system of a private house

Usage pumping equipment although it makes the system energy-dependent, it completely eliminates the need for human participation in the operation of the boiler. The temperature sensor monitors the heating limit, the pump moves water progressively from the boiler to the pipes and back. If we are talking about an electric or gas boiler, all participation comes down to only one thing - setting comfortable temperature and forget about the boiler for the whole season.

In order to ensure the operation of the boiler in the absence of electricity, you can purchase a 12-volt circulation pump powered by a battery.

Coolant circulation by gravity

Today, such a system is extremely rare and only in one-story houses. Here, the coolant moves through the system by gravity, when water of different temperatures moves under the influence of differences in specific gravity.

A prerequisite for proper water circulation in a gravity system is the installation of pipes at a slight angle - up to 150.

DIY installation of a water heating system

In order to make the house comfortable and warm, you should correctly calculate the number of radiators through which the coolant will circulate. Please note that all boilers must be equipped with an exhaust ventilation system and a chimney. The only exception applies to an electric boiler.

How to calculate the required number of radiators

The most correct way is to calculate the area of ​​the heated room (in each room separately). According to SNiP, each square meter requires 100 W of heat. Find out the area of ​​the room and multiply by required amount heat. So, for example, for a room of 20 sq.m. you will need 2000 W of heat (20 x 100), which corresponds to 2 kW.

Now we determine the number of radiators by the number of sections or units. Each manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of one section of a radiator or monolithic product. Divide the resulting heat volume by the heat transfer coefficient and get the number of sections that you convert into radiators, or immediately the number of radiators.

1. Single-pipe, where only hot water leaves the boiler

In this case, the coolant moves from the first to the last radiator, gradually losing heat. When choosing such a system, you should keep in mind that in the farthest room the battery will be almost cold.

It is difficult to adjust the temperature of radiators with such a system, since by shutting off one radiator, you stop the flow of coolant to all subsequent ones.

1. Two-pipe - supply of hot water from the boiler and return of water to the boiler (return).

This is the most optimal system for heating a private house, where 2 pipes are connected in parallel to each device - primary and return. In this case, the temperature of all radiators in all rooms will be approximately the same. You can increase or decrease the temperature in each room as needed.

This method of wiring is also called radial, when a pipe with direct supply is supplied from the boiler to each device and discharged with a cold one.

The collector in such a heating system performs the task of storing coolant.

This is a universal system that is suitable for organizing heating in any room, while it is possible to do hidden wiring to each device separately.

Depending on the chosen wiring system, the number of pipes and the total cost are determined. Single-pipe wiring is the cheapest option.

After the number of radiators has been calculated and the system has been selected, the pipes should be installed.

Previously used for this purpose metal pipes. Today, such a solution is not profitable due to cost and susceptibility to corrosion, so you should choose polypropylene.

Polypropylene pipes in the heating system

Pipes are laid in all rooms that will be heated, moving from one room to another. The pipes are connected to each other with a special soldering iron for plastic pipes.

You can assemble a water heating system for a private house with your own hands, but for this you will need accurate calculations and boiler piping diagram. The main drawback of such a system is the need for regular prevention. And please note that if you use antifreeze, it must be changed every 5 years.

Quite a popular method of heating residential and office premises, based on the principle of gravity and forced ventilation. The gravitational system involves the movement of air at a temperature difference due to its natural circulation. Different temperature means different air densities, which is why warm and cold layers move.

When heating with air, a heater is installed in the room or ventilation ducts are installed through which warm air enters. Each such heat source can be installed anywhere in the room - on the wall, ceiling or floor. This has no effect on the principle of convection.

There are 2 main types of air heating:

• local (localized);
• central.

Localized

This method is suitable for heating only one room in the room. The heat source can be:

• air heaters;
• heat guns;
• thermal curtains.

The optimal heat supply is a heater that distributes heat several meters around. The power of such equipment is 1-1.2 kW per hour.

A heat gun is a more powerful equipment, which also instantly dries the air in the room. Used only for heating warehouse and industrial premises where people stay for a short time. Power 2-2.5 kW per hour.

A thermal curtain is an analogue of an air conditioner that supplies hot air to a point. Most often, a curtain is placed at the entrance to simultaneously prevent cold air from entering the room. Power 1.5-2 kW per hour.

Central heating

This is an example of a centralized hot air supply, which operates on the principle:

• direct-flow or partial recirculation;
• complete circulation of hot air.

Most often, such a system is chosen in rooms with suspended or stretch ceilings, where ventilation ducts can be made above them. Through such ventilation holes, hot air enters the room and circulates in it.

It is not advisable to install ventilation ducts in the walls, since part of it will be needed to mask the ventilation shafts.

The cost of air heating is more expensive both in terms of installation and the cost of equipment. The source of coolant supply is a gas or electric boiler.

Advantages:

• filtering the air entering the room;
• fresh air due to the fact that the intake is carried out from the street;
• possibility of organizing drip irrigation and air ionization.

Flaws:

• such a system can only be created in a house under construction (with the exception of a water gun and a heat curtain);
• expensive installation.

Electric heating

Most affordable way heating any room, since electricity is everywhere.

The operating principle is based on work electric convector, converting electrical energy into thermal energy. Modern models are equipped with a large number of functions that completely eliminate the need for human participation in monitoring work.

It could be:

• temperature controller depending on the time of day;
• regulator for increasing the temperature at night and decreasing it during the day (day-night mode);
• maintaining system pressure and minimum temperature in the event of absence of people for a long time;
• compliance with the regime even during a short-term power outage, etc.

Advantages:

• very simple and easy installation that anyone can do;
• extremely simple operation;
• mobility of the system, when convectors can be moved from room to room if necessary.

Flaws:

• the high cost of energy is the most expensive of all existing heating methods.

When choosing an electric heating method, there must be 3 phases and a stable voltage in the network.

Steam heating

In this case, the operating principle is completely identical to the water one, with the only difference that instead of water, steam circulates in the pipe system. Installation of pipes, selection of boiler power and organization of piping are completely identical to the water heating system.

For steam heating special boilers are used that generate hot steam. It is mandatory to have a “Through the Gauntlet” filter system, which purifies water from all kinds of impurities before it is converted into a vapor state.

There is only one advantage of a steam heating system - savings, since heating occurs almost instantly. The efficiency is 95%.

There are incomparably more disadvantages:

• peculiarity of the equipment - it is extremely difficult to find a steam boiler on the open market;
• high installation cost, which includes the installation of special pipes and the presence of a filter system;
• dangerous operation because the steam temperature exceeds 100 degrees.

Warm floor

The huge advantage of this heating system is the large heat-transferring surface area. This is an ideal option for common areas - kitchen, bathroom, hallway, as well as in the living room or children's room.

It is optimal to lay a heated floor under ceramic tiles - in this case it acts as an excellent conductor. Laminate and parquet are much less often used for heated floors, since when the temperature rises, warping of the material and its subsequent dismantling are possible.

A prerequisite for installing a heated floor is a foil layer. It is neither an insulator nor a reflector, as is commonly believed. Foil is used to distribute heat evenly across the floor surface. If you do not use such a layer, the tactile sensations of the floor will resemble a zebra - the stripe is warm, the stripe is cold.

Warm floors are water-based, where hot water circulates through pipes, and electric - a system of wires, where Electric Energy converted to heat.

Water heated floor

A branch of a water heating system in the form of small-diameter pipes laid on a flat floor surface. A prerequisite is the use of a substrate that will prevent heat loss from contact with the floor.

The difficulty of installing a water heated floor lies in the need to lay pipes and connect them correctly to the existing heating system.

Electric heated floor

A type of heating that is elementary in installation and operation. The only difficulty that may arise is preliminary preparation surfaces for laying wires or mats using a concrete screed, and laying flooring on top of a heated floor

Even easier - using electric mats on existing coverage. Such mats are absolutely safe to use and are easy to set up. To avoid mechanical damage, it is recommended to use an overhead electric floor under a carpet or rug.

In most cases, a heated floor is an auxiliary element of the heating system in the house.

How to choose heating for your home

The most correct thing when choosing a heating system and, accordingly, a boiler is to focus on the available type of fuel. If there is no gas pipeline in some area yet, but its installation is already underway, it is advisable to use combined boilers - solid fuel and gas. Where gas is not available and is not planned, but electricity is expensive, you can connect an electric boiler.

Each system has both its advantages and disadvantages. Even if you heat the house yourself, be sure to consult with the designers regarding the type and method. Any of the selected heating systems is quite expensive so that errors in calculations can be made.

For example, when developing a fireplace, stove or solid fuel boiler with your own hands, there is a risk of carbon dioxide concentration in the room, which will lead to accidents.

The best option would be to purchase ready-made certified equipment, and you can do the installation and wiring yourself.

In order to accurately understand which type of heating to prefer, you should take into account the cost of each type of fuel and its consumption per unit of time.

As of March 2016, fuel prices are as follows:

• 1 liter of diesel - $0.5. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.05.
• 1 m 3 of natural gas for individuals - $0.05. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.006.
• 1 liter of bottled gas - $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.020.
• 1 kW/h of electricity for individual — 0,03 $.
• 1 kg of coal averages $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.05.

Independence of the private sector from central heating provides the opportunity to install the most comfortable home heating systems, selected according to the installation method and operational characteristics. However, often home owners want to save on work, wondering how to make heating themselves.

Heating project

In this case, the scope for activity opens up much wider. In each room you can install the most suitable option, which will be both economical and have high efficiency.

How does heating work?

Even when a large number appears in various ways heating, when choosing how to heat a house, property owners give preference to proven gas installations. They use water as a coolant and heat it gas burner closed type.

Since it is better to make heating in a private house yourself, you must first know its structure. The system can use boilers various types, installed both in parallel mode, duplicating each other if necessary, and working independently of one another.

The coolant circulates through the main pipes. The process is controlled by a circulation pump, which can be mounted either in the body of the heat generator or installed separately on the pipe.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself heating of a private house

Standard heating kit

In most cases, a basic heating kit in a cottage or house consists of the following items:

Main heating device

A complex that includes several units responsible for autonomy, regulation and configuration of the entire system. This is not only a furnace or boiler, but also a circulation pump that ensures the movement of coolant through the pipes and other essential elements of the circuit. It can have manual control, thanks to which the most comfortable operating mode is selected. More practical is automatic control, when a certain temperature is set and the system itself monitors when to turn on/off the heating.

Pipeline layout

A system of pipes (mains) through which coolant heated to the required temperature moves. All wiring is pre-installed established scheme. It can be external, leaving the pipes in sight, or hidden, when the lines are mounted in the walls or floor.

Divided into one- and two-pipe.

Single-pipe- a primitive system in which the coolant moves only in one direction, sequentially feeding the radiators with heat. Plus - simplicity of layout and low-cost assembly. The downside is that it’s only really warm in the first room, while the coolant arrives in the last room almost cooled, so in the farthest room it will always be cold.

Two-pipe- more complicated in organization, but at the same time the most optimal option for heating. The main difference from a single-pipe system is not that there are two parallel pipes - with a hot coolant and a cold one, but in the fact that in fact, a separate pipe is connected to each radiator, through which hot water is transmitted. With such a system it will be equally comfortable in both the first and last rooms.

Two-pipe

Heating radiators/radiators or convectors

These are heat-releasing devices, through which heat is transferred from the coolant to the room. Batteries/radiators work exclusively due to the heat-transferring surface, while convectors additionally force air flows upward

Thermostat

Recently, they are often installed in heating systems. Their design includes a thermostatic head and valve. When the temperature drops to a critical value, the flow diameter is opened. This is a mandatory element of any boiler, allowing you to coordinate the temperature inside the room by adjusting the valve.

Before you properly install heating in a private home, you will need to assemble a complete set of all elements.

During operation of batteries with coolant in the form of water, air humidity decreases by 18-25%. To compensate for such a significant decrease, it is necessary to install humidifiers. This requirement especially applies to families with small children, in whom dry air provokes problems with the nasopharynx and respiratory organs.

Application of circulation

Heating in a private house can be carried out in such a way that the liquid will circulate due to natural physical processes. Warm currents passing through heating circuit, will return to the boiler from below, and, heating up, will again go up and further down the system again to the boiler. Thus, there is no need to connect electricity and install an additional pump.

However, if you do such heating in a private house, the speed of the coolant will be low, which will affect the slow spread of heat. How to make heating with good circulation in a private house? For this purpose, a pump is installed in the system.

Forced water supply will provide greater efficiency to the system. The power of the device may vary depending on the length of the circuit and the amount of coolant in the system. Most modern heating systems have a forced supply of coolant to the radiators.

As for the energy dependence of the entire system, an excellent solution would be one that operates both from the mains and from a battery. While there is electricity, the device is charging; when turned off, it starts working from battery. Its power lasts for 24 hours. Moreover, the non-standard configuration, where there are no seals and shields, and a non-contact magnetic drive is responsible for the operation of the motor, allows it to start working even with low voltage in the network. Which is especially important for country houses.

Selection of boilers

A wide range of fuel boilers allows you to choose the appropriate heat generator. For those who also want to use hot water supply, it would be relevant to purchase dual-circuit devices that work for both heating and domestic hot water.

Those who are looking for how to properly heat their home and have settled on choosing a boiler should consider several suitable options:

Gas boilers

They are widely used, relatively affordable, and have the ability to choose a device with almost any convenient characteristics. The downside is the high cost of permits and the length of approval. The equipment is as autonomous as possible and does not require any intervention in its operation. It is enough to carry out maintenance once a year.

The cheapest option. Their base is made of steel or cast iron. The downside is poor autonomy, large dimensions and the need for warehouse for fuel.

An excellent alternative is pellet boilers, where pellets are used as fuel - pressed waste from the woodworking industry, which is characterized by high efficiency. Experts recommend purchasing fuel in the summer, when prices drop by 30-50%, in order to reduce heating costs as much as possible. On average, the heating season will cost 9-10 thousand rubles for a house with an area of ​​120 sq.m.

Liquid fuel operation

As a rule, diesel fuel or fuel oil is used. They are distinguished by the presence of a characteristic smell of exhaust gases in the air. They need a container for fuel, but are an excellent alternative gas equipment where there is no natural gas pipeline. Can be used as a parallel system. Not recommended for use in residential buildings, exclusively in utility rooms with mandatory access to fresh air.

Electrical modules

The cleanest and quietest. They are easy to install, but consume a lot of electricity to heat the coolant. Effectively used as a parallel system when there is a meter with different tariffs during the day and at night. Electric boilers in country houses are mainly chosen combined type, which makes it possible to switch to an alternative type of fuel. For example, for those regions where the gas pipeline has not yet been installed, but has already been drawn up technical documentation, a gas/electricity combo boiler is suitable. Where gas heating does not yet exist and is not planned - electricity/wood, etc.

Pipeline equipment

How to correctly select and install the pipeline in the heating of a private house determines whether leaks will appear, and depressurization reduces the pressure in the system. The coolant must circulate in a closed circuit.

There are two groups of pipes:

• plastic-based, made of polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene;
• metal steel pipes.

In the first case, they are resistant to abrasion and can withstand temperatures up to 95 0 C. In the second case, they have mechanical strength, are able to withstand temperatures significantly higher than 100 0 C, but are subject to corrosion processes.

Heat accumulators

Heating radiators are used to transfer heat into the room. They should be chosen not for aesthetic appearance, but for maximum efficiency:

• panel - rectangles made of welded sheets may differ in height and width;
• sectional - individual sections are connected to each other by threaded couplings;
• tubular - withstand high pressure;
• lamellar - they use thin-walled material up to 1 mm thick.

The most effective are bimetallic sectional models that have a long and effective service life.

VIDEO: How the heating of a private house works. Types and methods.

Do-it-yourself heating schemes for a private house

If you are serious about the question of how to install heating in a private home, start by deciding whether the entire home will be heated, or whether the emphasis will be on individual rooms - this will help to avoid unnecessary costs when selecting equipment.

The process of preparing and carrying out work consists of the following stages:

• drawing up a drawing and calculating power;
• selection of quality equipment;
• preparing a site for the heating system;
• heating installation;
• equipment connection.

Do-it-yourself heating system for a private house

Before you start organizing heating, you need to draw up a diagram for laying communications. To do this, you have to choose which system to install: water, steam, electric or open fire. Her choice depends on financial capabilities, personal tastes and the feasibility of installation in the room. The diagram must take into account all elements of the heating system. Also at the design stage it is necessary to calculate the power.

Heating systems country houses and cottages differ in the type of energy used, coolant, installation method, as well as a set of components.

Despite the difference in operational characteristics, the operating principle of the majority consists of the following steps:

1. The boiler heats: water, steam, antifreeze or oil.
2. The coolant disperses through pipes leading to the radiators.
3. When moving through the pipes, the heated substance gives off heat to the radiator and heat exchanger, which are installed in the boiler or manifold, due to this, the water is heated.
4. After which it returns to the boiler, where it heats up again and goes through the entire cycle again.

Water is rightfully considered the best coolant, thanks to the following qualities:

• accessibility;
• high energy intensity;
• accumulative properties;
• environmental cleanliness;
• security.

Despite all the advantages of water heating, including the ease of replacing the coolant (drain) to replace part of the system, there is also a significant disadvantage: winter period water freezes and pipes can burst. Therefore, it should be chosen in the case where a private house is constantly warmed up (poorly suited for dachas, where the owners appear very rarely in winter).

Using antifreeze or oil as a coolant will solve the problem of freezing, but when draining, special containers will be needed and the cost of replacing the substance will be quite expensive. Therefore, water heating is preferred.

Liquids are heated in boilers that use fuel: firewood or pellets (eurowood), as well as coal, gas, electricity or diesel fuel.

Do-it-yourself water heating schemes for a private house

Heating with water is different high quality and ease of organization among other types of heating. The systems differ in the type of fuel they operate on: liquid (diesel, fuel oil); solid (coal, peat, wood); gas or electricity. It is rational to select a boiler based on availability specific type fuel.

When installing water heating, use following types pipes: copper, steel, stainless metals or polymer. Since the reliability and strength of the system depends on the choice of material, we will consider all options:

• Steel pipes are inexpensive and readily available, but they are susceptible to corrosion. It is recommended to connect them using threads, since when welding the joints will rust.
• Copper pipes are characterized as the most durable and reliable, but quite expensive. They are connected by soldering.
• Pipes made of stainless metals will be the most durable, but will require large financial costs. Such pipes are connected by means of threads.
• Polymer pipes are distinguished by their low price and low resistance to temperature changes. They can be connected by soldering or threading.

Water heating of a separate house, regardless of the fuel used to heat the coolant, can be single-circuit or double-circuit. The first method allows you to operate the system for heating a room or heating water, while the second combines both functions. It is quite practical to lay two single-circuit systems. This method is beneficial when heating water in the summer and ensures economical operation of the boiler.

Heating systems for private houses are distinguished by the type of wiring: collector, single-pipe and double-pipe.

• IN single-pipe scheme The heated liquid, moving, gradually loses temperature, as a result of which the last radiators will be unable to heat the room.
• A two-pipe heating system will allow you to heat the cottage in the best way. This method involves connecting two pipeline branches to the radiator. Heated water is supplied through one, and cooled water is discharged through the other. A branch with heated coolant is supplied in parallel to all batteries. Installing thermostats along the hot coolant supply line in front of the radiators makes it possible to regulate the temperature. Heat loss during use given methods insignificant.
• The collector system is considered the most advanced in this moment. It functions as follows: 2 pipes go from the collector to all radiators (one supplies hot water, and the second serves to return cooled water). Its use makes it possible to regulate the temperature in any room and allows you to carry out repairs without completely turning off the heating of the house.

Heating calculations imply precise definition required power boiler The heating of a private house is calculated using the following formula:

where W is power, kW;

k - correction factor. So that the boiler power indicator can be calculated as accurately as possible, special coefficients are introduced. They depend on the general temperature and weather conditions for various areas(for the Moscow region and central Russia it is customary to use a coefficient of 1.2-1.5; for the Urals and northern regions 1.5-2; in the south 0.7-1.2).;

S - area of ​​the cottage in square meters.

Do-it-yourself heating of a private house is sometimes organized as follows: water, heating up in the boiler, goes into gaseous form, then enters the heating batteries, where, becoming condensate, it transfers heat to them and, already in liquid form, returns to the boiler. There are two types of steam heating systems: open and closed. In the first, a special tank is used to accumulate condensate, and in the second, the precipitated steam enters the boiler through an installed tube with a catcher.

Steam-type heating in a private house is not relevant today, and it is used only in enterprises, since the boiler takes up a lot of space, and besides, it is quite complicated and dangerous to use.

Private house heating installation. Furnace system

The use of stoves as the main heating system is becoming less and less common every year, however, they create a special cozy atmosphere.

There are the following stove options that provide efficient heating:

• Metal ones are easy to install, heat up quickly, but do not have the ability to accumulate heat. Due to its low overall heat capacity, the stove gives off heat only for 2 - 3 hours, and then it needs to be heated again and again. And this is fraught with significant fuel consumption.
• Stone ones - provide constant, higher-quality heating (due to their mass, they maintain the set temperature longer), but require complex installation. Stone heating stoves come in different types: heating (Dutch); heating and cooking stoves (Swedish, Russian stoves); conventional cooking ovens (cauldron ovens, barbecues); narrowly targeted (heater for baths, greenhouse, garage stoves). Such a variety of species allows you to choose the most suitable sample.

From a rational point of view, a heating and cooking stove would be an excellent solution. The surface performs two functions at the same time: it serves for cooking and warms up the room. Due to the open burner surface, the heat of the stove is wasted faster. Quite popular are fireplace stoves with glass door, operating as an open or closed oven.

Stove heating can be organized in two ways. In the first case, the room is heated by heating the stove itself from combustion products (wood or diesel fuel), this method is often found in villages, villages, towns, but it can also include fireplace heating (air heating). In the second case, the furnace, burning materials, heats the coolant with its own heat or hot air, which rises and is supplied through pipes to the heating element. Next, the heated substance (water, oil, antifreeze) enters a single-pipe or two-pipe network.

It should be noted that stove heating is acceptable only in small-sized dwellings. When heating large cottages, it is worth considering other options.

Do-it-yourself heating of a private house: the advantages of gas as a fuel

The presence of a gas pipeline near the site will allow you to carry out gas heating of a private house with your own hands.

The use of gas as fuel and the corresponding boiler has a number of advantages:

• maintains the required temperature and retains heat for a long time;
• allows you to efficiently and safely heat fairly large buildings;
• does not create the need to procure additional components;
• allows you to adjust and maintain set temperature, thanks to the latest thermostats gas systems;
• reduces the possibility of fire due to the low temperature of combustion products.

For gas heating, one-pipe or two-pipe wiring is used (the features of which are discussed in the DIY water heating section).

It is quite possible to install heating in a private house yourself, but when choosing a gas type of heating, you should remember that only organizations that have the necessary permits can carry out installation work on the equipment.

Bottom line

It is quite possible to do the heating of a private house with your own hands using the diagrams and tips given above. You just need to remember that right choice heating system depends on the availability of fuel, the size of the heated cottage and your financial capabilities.