The distance from the oven to the wooden wall. How to equip a furnace in a brick wall

So, you firmly decided: "We will heat the furnace from the adjacent room with a steam room, and buy a metal stove with a portable firebox."

Since you have come to a final decision, then you will probably be wondering how you can insert this most portable firebox into the wall. What you need to do, and what materials will be needed?

It is clear that the conclusion of the firebox in the next room implies the presence of an opening in the wall separating the rooms of the bath.

Agree that the most expedient option to create such an aperture is to lay down its future existence in the bath construction project, than to “cut” a hole in the already finished wall.

Nevertheless, the latest options also have a place to be.

What is the size of the opening?

The size of the hole depends on several factors:

1. The dimensions of the fuel channel of the bathhouse;

2. The type of material from which the wall is made;

3. The rules of isolation of elements such as the fuel channel.

Dimensions of the fuel channel

The dimensions of the firebox (width, height) are basic data from which we will dance. The length (or depth) of the fuel channel does not affect the size of the opening. But when buying a metal heater with a portable firebox, you must take into account the thickness of the wall through which you want to bring the firebox, plus 5 cm - the required distance between the wall and the vertical surface of the heater. Thus, the length of the telescopic channels in different furnaces varies from 160 to 300 mm.

Conclusion of a fire chamber through a brick or concrete wall

If you have a brick or concrete wall, then the size of the opening will directly depend on the width and height of the firebox.

For different furnaces, the size of the opening can vary from 40 to 60 cm in height and from 25 to 50 cm in width.

If an additional base is installed under the furnace, it must also be taken into account.

Plus, the size of the furnace from all sides must be added 10-20 mm. That is, there should be a small gap between the firebox and the wall, because when heated the metal expands a little.

The gap is naturally compacted with some kind of elastic and heat-resistant material. It can be mineral or basalt wool, asbestos cord.

In addition, in the case of cladding brick walls, from the firebox should retreat in all directions at least 10 cm.

The remaining open surface is closed on both sides with a metal sheet (preferably stainless steel), in which the slot for the firebox is pre-cut.

Conclusion of the firebox through the wooden wall

In the case of withdrawal of the firebox through a wooden partition (timber, frame) turns out to be “aperture in the opening”. That is, you will need to first cut the opening in the wall and lay it out in brickwork with a hole for the firebox.

In this case, the calculation formula will be as follows:
the height of the base on which the heater will stand (if provided),
+ dimensions of the fuel channel (height from the legs),
+ 10-20 mm on the gap to expand when heated (from all sides),
+ 25 cm masonry (up and sideways).

According to fire safety rules, the distance from the walls of the fuel channel to flammable surfaces must be at least 25 cm. The remaining gap between the brickwork and the wooden wall is covered with any heat-resistant material.


But the most correct option is to install the furnace first, then the brickwork, and then install the wall. They do the same when they want to fully veneer a metal stove - first they cover the entire furnace with bricks, and then a wooden partition is erected above it.

The distance from the wood stove to the side wall

When creating the opening, you should also consider the safe distance from the furnace to the side wall.

If a wooden (or clapboard) wall is not protected by anything, then the distance to the heater should be at least 500 mm.

If there is single insulation (metal sheet 1 mm thick or non-combustible fiber reinforced cement sheet 7 mm thick), this distance can be reduced to 250 mm.

With double insulation (2 sheets of one material are used each) the distance to the furnace is 125 mm.

Insulating sheets should not touch the wall tightly. Between them must be left about 3 cm of free space. For this purpose, metal sleeves can be used as an intermediate support, for example. The insulation must also not come into contact with the ceiling and the floor.

Isolation of the "pre-furnace" space

In addition, it is necessary to insulate the floor in front of the heater, if it is wooden. A metal sheet with a size that fits the width of the fuel channel + 10 cm from the right and left sides is suitable for insulation. And in the forward direction from the door of the furnace sheet must cover a distance of 40 cm.

It is desirable to install this element of isolation not only for easily inflammable surfaces, but also for all the others. It will protect the space in front of the firebox from possible sparks, from accidentally fired embers, and the garbage also sometimes appears during the laying of firewood.


Steel Screens

Some heaters are sold with protective steel screens. When installing the furnace, they replace the brickwork. A hole in the wall is cut out just like under a brick. There are also side and floor screens that protect the walls and the floor from fire.

The conclusion can be drawn as follows: no matter how you build the fuel channel into the wall, the most important thing in this process is to choose a suitable insulation option without neglecting the rules of fire safety.

The quality of the brickwork directly affects the fire safety of the furnace during its operation. If the work is done with low quality, then the furnace will spread to a sufficiently large height, which will lead to multiple occurrences of chips, cracks and chipping of the mortar from the masonry joints. Fire and hot gases entering the room through them can cause a fire. Significantly increases the likelihood of fire and in cases where out of time soot is removed from the smoke channels, or the rules for performing the furnace are violated.

The structural elements of the room in which the stove is lined, when they are made of wood or other combustible materials, are placed on a certain distance from the furnace. In this case, the minimum value of the specified distance is set by the relevant regulatory documents. If there are reasons that prevent the observance of this distance, then the following requirements are met. All structural elements of the room, which are closer to the furnace walls than required by fire safety regulations, are insulated with special materials (asbestos sheets, or sheets of technical felt previously soaked in a clay solution).

In those places where the flue of the heating device passes through interfloor overlappings or roofing, special cutting (raspuska) is performed.


Standards of thickness of masonry depending on the distance "smoke - flammable base" are given in Table 1.



If according to the project the stove will be laid out between combustible wooden partitions (interior walls), then the minimum distance from them before the furnace wall should be 130 millimeters. Additionally, it is necessary to isolate the wall from the side of the groove. Minimum allowed between partition and “smoke” distance 250 millimeters. In cases where there is no possibility of high-quality insulation, this distance increase to 380 millimeters. As one of the possible options, the situation can be considered when the sides from the furnace to the walls are covered with brickwork from the sides.

In this case, the wall, made of wood, is closed by a brick wall, lined in brick by felt, previously saturated with clay mortar (the so-called “cold quarter”). Between the walls of the furnace and the cold quarter below and above are openings with ventilation grilles that ensure air circulation in this spatial volume. The required height and width of the protrusions of the cold quarter should exceed 250 millimeters.


Do not forget that it is strictly prohibited to perform vertical dressing of the “cold quarter” with laying of the furnace or pipe itself. The ash pit of the furnace should not be connected to the underground. The wood ceilings above the stove are insulated with a double layer of technical felt pre-soaked in clay mortar. It is possible to apply plaster to the felt with the subsequent upholstery of this place with roofing iron. Moreover, the zone of such isolation should at least on 150 millimeters  go beyond the external dimensions of the furnace on all four sides. Floors from combustible materials in front of the firebox are also subject to mandatory insulation, which, most often, is made of a double layer of technical felt soaked in a clay solution and then sheathed with a sheet of roofing iron. The standard sheet size is 500 * 700. The skirting board near the stove is upholstered with tin, or covered with it.

Performing the cutting it is necessary to take into account many additional factors: the furnace sludge, pipes, the building itself. It should be remembered that the stone and wooden structures give different shrinkage. If the former exhibit negligibly small values, then wooden structures can sink to 150 millimeters. Walls may rise slightly when performing work on their caulking. When the walls subside, the overlaps resting on them, respectively, also sink. This can lead to cracks, and as a result, to the occurrence of a fire. In cases where the expected subsidence of the walls may exceed the draft of the pipes (both mounted and root), the cutting is done with the expectation that it has free passage inside the room. If the pipes or the stove exhibit a draft, the value of which exceeds the calculated draft of the floor and walls, the fluff should be performed upwards (towards the attic).

Lofts in construction very often fall asleep with light materials with low thermal conductivity, which are quite flammable (hay, dry leaves, sawdust, peat, etc.). From above, it is covered with slag, earth or sand. The thickness of the top layer must be at least 20 millimeters. In such cases, the cutting should be raised at least 70 millimeters above the backfill layer, and along its perimeter, backfill from non-combustible materials, the thickness of which should be 100 or more millimeters. The distance from the wooden crates (rafters) to the outer surface of the brick pipe should be at least 130 millimeters. And between the pipe and combustible roof - 260 millimeters. The remaining gaps should be covered with sheets of roofing iron or asbestos cement.

Furnaces and pipes should be periodically inspected to detect possible defects and promptly eliminate the latter.

Equipping a brick wall oven is easy enough. And this is an extremely profitable solution, since the efficiency of such heating structures is very high. Here the wall acts as a heating coarse, so it is inside the room that a greater amount of heat remains due to the combustion of solid fuel. And what is important, for arranging such furnaces to allocate too much free space is not necessary. In most cases, 30 cm of heat-resistant foam will be sufficient. This is an excellent heat accumulator that does not collapse due to thermal deformations (with frequent heating / cooling). How to equip the oven in the opening between several rooms?

The efficiency of brick heating furnaces is very high.

So, if it is exactly brick level brickwork that is used, then the easiest way to mount a heating stove is to install a metal independent frame with a blower and a chimney (more precisely, exit to it).

All that remains is to impose a red heat-resistant brick (preferably red-hot, which has already gone through heating to several thousand ° C). The laying structure can be both flat and with a coil (that is, a curved bend along the chimney, which allows you to leave more heat in the room than with a direct blowing system).

Such systems can be used and when the arrangement of the stove occurs in the bath. In this case, the design is settled in the opening between the rooms, where the most ordinary tree (meaning the log house) is used as a partition. Here, the arrangement of the furnace is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to isolate the wooden base from the heat and heat. Here again, you can use ceramic plates and the most common heat-resistant brick. The distance from the base itself (coarse) and the slab must be at least 15 cm of the air gap. Only in this case, we can say that the safety technique is fully complied with.

It should be noted that after installing the stove, the adjacent wall is in no way covered by a layer of decorative plaster or similar building material. The best option is to cover with a tile of a dark shade or make an air layer inside. But the last option is to reduce the performance of the heating structure, so it is better not to focus on it.

Arrangement of a stove in a brick wall in a residential building

So, if the wall is brick, then it is not necessary to prepare a recess for the installation of the stove in it. If it previously had a doorway, you can use it. It will be much easier. It is enough to cut a through hole with a side of 40-60 cm. A metal support is installed on the bottom, on which the entire structure will be located. Further, a duct is formed from the back of the wall (of course, it is necessary to make a rather long protrusion even under the chimney, because it also requires at least 40-50 cm). If necessary, a space of 20 mm is made between the support and the floor. This is also necessary for fire safety purposes. It remains only to install the furnace in the wall and impose a brick over it. Experts recommend doing this either white or red heat-resistant, but half (that is, when the brick is placed lying).

In the bath, the stove is mounted in the same way, if one of the walls there is also brick (for example, which is located between the changing room and the steam room). The only difference in the installation algorithm of the stove in a residential building and in the bath is the distance from the base of the floor. If in a residential house it is customary to set the stove as low as possible, then in the bath it is higher to fill the upper part of the sauna with hot or hot air faster. But still there are no clear rules on how stoves should be located in a bath. Yes, and there can be used not only traditional stoves, but even fireplaces, and even electric stoves, in which heating is carried out by convection of hot air.

Proper laying stove

How does the laying of the stove in the brick wall do it yourself? As mentioned above - with the formation of the grooves under the chimney, the stove itself and the blower. If the chimney is not yet formed - it is done first. The best option is the formation of heat-resistant brick at the maximum height, that is, without transitions. It is also desirable that the upper part of the chimney is located approximately at a height of 4.5 m or higher. If below - will often blow into the oven with a strong wind outside. Because of this, the smoke will go back to the blower and into the house, and not outside.

If the oven is mounted in the opening between the wooden wall, then you will have to simply remove part of the building structure. The wall is supported on the strut. By the way, if the installation of the stove finish will be carried out in one run, then it is allowed not to make thick interstitial seams. You can do without them, simply by increasing the density of the solution (adding more concrete) and reducing the laying distance along the seam (instead of the usual 10 mm, make 5 or less).

If you look at the shape of the furnace from above in the section, then it turns out that it consists of 4 compartments. This is the best option. Can be reduced to 3:

  • blew;
  • the combustion chamber;
  • chimney (serpentine).

The fourth chamber in question is the place where soot accumulates. From this part can be completely abandoned only if the stove is mounted in the bath. There, the chimney cleaning is always performed 1-2 times a year anyway, since the outflow of smoke is reduced due to the accumulation of moisture, and sometimes the duct is clogged. In this case, the stove accumulates all the soot in the chimney. It is recommended to make a removable door in the knee (transition at a right angle) - this is where all the garbage and other residues of solid fuel combustion products will accumulate.

When laying the stove, the distance from the blower to the combustion chamber is desirable to do as much as possible. At the same time, it is better to make the transition between these cameras as narrow as possible - this increases the speed of movement of air masses.

It is impossible to build such a construction only from brick, therefore experts recommend to install special nozzles made of metal.

Fortunately, they are relatively cheap. There are several advantages to this design. Firstly, the air flow rate increases, secondly, the consumption of solid fuel and the efficiency of the heating structure decrease. Roughly speaking, it increases efficiency.

Operation stove in a brick wall

Is the operation of a stove in a brick wall different from the usual ones, which are mounted in residential buildings together with a gas heating system? First, here the switching of the type of fuel physically can not occur. Secondly, the heating should be distributed over the entire wall in order to prevent the brick from burning in the rough (this can even provoke a fire). Thirdly, the combustion chambers that are placed in such stoves have a smaller depth, but a greater width for convenient laying of firewood. Those that are put in the bath have a great height. The reason - the same, that is, for the convenience of laying firewood and other solid fuels.

During operation, heat-resistant brick will warm up to 1200 ° C. This factor should be taken into account, since the inside of the chimney will have almost the same temperature. In that case, if you allow a reverse flow of air (due to an improperly shaped chimney coil) - this will necessarily lead to a fire.

In any case, a properly formed furnace is a guarantee of its safe operation on any kind of solid fuel. In the stove that is mounted in the wall, the main thing is to ensure the proper supply of oxygen to maintain the burning of wood or coal. And here the nozzles that are placed between the combustion chamber and the blower, perform exactly this function.

Installing a wood-burning bath stove with a lightweight single protection of the sauna casing.


The sauna stove is installed on a fireproof floor covering approximately 1.2 x 1.2 m in size. A protective screen of at least 1200 x 1200 mm is hung on the ceiling above the bath stove. Leave an air gap of at least 3 cm between the screen and the ceiling. On the walls from floor to ceiling in the corner where the bath stove is installed, hang one layer of lightweight protective screen (for example, 1200 x 2100 mm in size). The screen is mounted with an air gap of at least 3 cm from the wall. Below, between the floor and the screen, as well as on top, between the screen and the ceiling, it is necessary to leave air gaps for cooling the walls at least 3 cm. The screens will provide reliable protection of the combustible surfaces from hot parts bath stove. Before the firebox of the bath stove it is necessary to place a pre-furnace sheet of at least 400 mm width.


Installing a woodburning stove with double lightweight wall sheathing protection.

The sauna stove is installed on a fireproof floor covering at least 1.05 x 1.05 m in size. A protective screen of at least 1000 x 1000 mm is hung on the ceiling above the bath stove. Leave an air gap of at least 3 cm between the screen and the ceiling. Hang two layers of lightweight protective screens in the corner where the bath stove will be installed. The screens are mounted with air gaps from the walls and between each other at least 3 cm. Below, below the screens and on top, above the screens, leave air gaps for air circulation of at least 3 cm. Before the fire chamber of the sauna stove it is necessary to place a pre-heating sheet at least 400 wide mm Such installation of the bathing furnace with the double protective screen occupies the minimum area in a steam room.


Installation of a wood-burning stove with a brick protective partition.

The sauna stove is installed on a fireproof solid foundation of at least 1.1 x 1.1 m in size. A brick corner partition of at least 1.1 x 1.1 m in size. It is built from floor to ceiling. Between the log walls and the partition leave an air gap of at least 3 cm. A protective screen of 1000x1000 mm must be hung above the bath stove. With a gap of at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Lay a 400 mm x 650 mm pre-furnace sheet in front of the door heating chamber of a bath stove. The brick partition is erected in 0.5 bricks or 0.25 bricks (a quarter).