Walls for painting: technology preparatory work. Wall decoration for do-it-yourself painting

• Technology implementation preparatory work
• Painting performance
• Recommendations of the masters

In any construction and repair of buildings, an important stage of the work is the finishing of the walls. To carry out this procedure, use a lot of various materials. The most common of them are tiles, siding, drywall, artificial and natural stone, wallpaper, plaster.

Using a roller, you can apply various patterns to the walls, giving the wall an unusual look.

With the appearance of the new generation of paints on the construction market, which do not smell and dry quickly, wall finishing by painting them acquires a second life.

This finish has several advantages:

1. Full or partial repair of the painted surface can be done with minimal cost and time.
2. Rich selection of colors.
3. The coating allows the walls to breathe.
4. At performance of work practically dirt and garbage is not formed.

Disadvantages:

1. Serious initial investment of money and labor.
2. Change the color of the walls under the influence of sunlight.
3. Painted surfaces should be protected from alkalis and acids.
4. Walls for painting should be completely smooth, covered with high-quality plaster.

Decorating the walls for painting is not as simple as it seems. Not every painter is able to perform all the work quality.

Technology implementation preparatory work

The technology of preparation of the walls involves work on the creation of a perfectly smooth plaster. To achieve such a result, the walls for painting are trimmed first with drywall. In this case, you need:

1. To glue all the seams and corners with the painting grid, serpyanka tape.
2. Hats of self-tapping screws cover with plaster composition.
3. Primed surface.
4. Glue them with fiberglass, the density of which is 0.25. The adhesive composition is applied to the wall, glass fiber is glued and rolled on top with a roller with glue. On flat walls you can not perform this stage of work.
5. Apply a layer of putty up to 3 mm thick to the fiberglass. The putty is sold dry and ready to use. For puttying the walls, the dry composition is diluted according to the instructions.
6. After drying, the wall must be sanded and apply a finishing, thinner layer of putty on it.
7. Finally sand the wall with a fine sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.
8. The sanded walls for painting should be primed again to protect them from dust and peeling of the applied paint.

Somewhat more difficult to prepare for painting walls that have the old finish. It must be removed from the wall. The tile is removed with a chisel and hammer. You can use a puncher with a nozzle in the shape of a scapula. For removal of the remains of old paint it is most effective to use the building hair dryer. With it, heats up a section of the wall until the moment when the layer of paint begins to bubble. It is immediately removed with a spatula, knife, scraper. Then you can level, dry, prime and paint.

In the absence of a hair dryer, proceed as follows:

1. It is necessary to determine the type of old paint on the wall. For this sandpaper need to rub the wall. Water-soluble paint will remain on the surface of the skin. Oil and alkyd based paint is brushed off. Remove paint residues with a spatula, sandpaper with coarse grain and a metal brush.

To remove the oil paint is recommended to rinse the wall with a solution of soda. Other types of paint can be removed in this way: smear the walls with wallpaper glue and stick newspapers on them. After complete drying, remove the newspaper from the wall. Usually the paint is removed along with them. The paint, which has an adhesive base, is well removed by a solution of hydrochloric acid. Old wallpapers are usually removed quite easily. You can use a spatula, a special liquid for removing wallpaper, hot water.

After complete removal of the old coating, it is necessary to get rid of possible stains of fat, rust, mold. Fungicides are used to remove mold. Grease stains are washed off with water to which soda has been added. Rust stains should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 100 grams of vitriol per 1 liter of hot water.

All stains removed. You can begin to seal errors. To do this, the walls can be covered with a layer of primer, followed by applying plaster, you can revet it with drywall.

The vast majority of types of wall decoration requires careful preparation of the base. In fact, the finish is not needed only for tiles or overhead decorative panels. Fortunately, in theory, the technology of finishing walls for painting or smoothing wallpaper is quite simple, but there are certain nuances. That's just about these nuances and subtleties, we will talk further.

When it makes sense to do self filler

We will not deceive you by saying that it is easy and simple to level any wall. If this were the case, then plastering would not be so highly appreciated. In this case, referring to the instructions on the alignment of small differences in height, literally up to 5 mm, and putty cracks. As well as finishing the walls of plasterboard for painting.

Such works can really be done by hand, the main thing is to strictly observe the technology and be attentive to each stage, there are no trifles here.

It is quite another thing when under the layer of old plaster there is a mass of voids and there is a risk that after leveling the whole layer will collapse. Or when the waves on the walls can be seen from afar with the naked eye. If you are faced with such problems, then ideally it is best to disrupt the old coating completely and do it all over again, although you will need the services of professionals for quality results.

Important: finishing of walls for painting is the final, finishing stage of work.
This is not a full-fledged plastering as such, it is only about the final alignment and elimination of minor defects.

What should pay attention

No matter how high your qualification, without a competent selection of source materials can not do. Having made a mistake at the stage of choice, later you risk rubbing the wall for a long time and tediously, without understanding the reasons for your fiasco.

Types of mixtures in composition

• Gypsum cement  or as they are also called dry mixes, are prepared immediately before use. Traditional instruction requires pouring the powder into the water, then stir it, but not vice versa. For residential use three main groups. Compounds designed for dry rooms are marked as KR or LR. For rooms with high humidity you need to take VH;

• Water dispersion  mixes are sold in ready-made form, packaged in buckets of various capacities. In addition to gypsum and cement, there are stabilizing additives in their composition, which ensures high quality coatings. The price for them is certainly higher, but it is much easier to work with such mixtures, therefore for amateurs this is the best option;

Important: if dry mixtures, until they are combined with water, can be stored for an arbitrarily long time, then you should not buy water-dispersive emulsions for the future, they have a fixed shelf life.

• So actively advertised acrylic blends are certainly good.. But, firstly, they are not cheap, and secondly, under such coverage you need paint of adequate quality, otherwise your efforts will be in vain;
• Oil-glue  putty can be safely called a relic of the past. It is well suited for processing wood or tile surfaces. But since we are talking about finishing for painting, then we do not recommend you to take this mixture. It is made on the basis of linseed oil and penetrates deep into the array, and after dyeing, this very linseed oil begins to appear. The only exception is oil paint.

Tip: if the tools are very tight, then you can make a putty with your own hands.
It consists of gypsum, chalk and wood glue, which are taken in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.
First, the gypsum is sifted and mixed with chalk, after which the glue is added and the construction mixer enters the work.
But this is an extreme option, it is better to still take the factory putty.

What are the compositions as intended

• Starting compounds are used for rough alignment of surfaces, seal major defects and cracks. They can be applied with a layer thickness of up to 15 mm, but here you need to be careful, starting putties have a separation according to the shape of the base, for example, only for concrete or under;
• Fine finishing compositions are designed to bring the surface to perfect condition. They fall in a thin layer, and these layers can be as much as is required to achieve the desired result;

• But this is all a classic, now the so-called universal polymer-based putty is being actively used on the market. It comes ready-made and can be used for starting as well as for finishing works. Apart from the price, the only disadvantage here is that such a mixture, coming into contact with air, is not stored for a long time.

A few words about the manufacturers

At one time, the company Weber released on the market, the so-called Concrete. In view of its low cost, it immediately became widespread, but “the music did not play long”, and the professionals quickly realized that the quality of Betonite leaves much to be desired. It adheres poorly to most surfaces, is afraid of moisture, plus it has low adhesion to all compositions, except for itself, who is loved. We do not recommend it to you.

Knauf is considered one of the most well-known and deservedly recognized companies. In relation to putties, the most common are Uniflot and Fugagips. They have a fairly high adhesion and a good end result.

Finishing drywall for painting products from the company Eunice impresses with its perfect whiteness and quality.

The German Ceresite company is excellent, but it is more specialized in compositions intended for concrete surfaces. Although to be honest, German products can be called a stretch, now everything is produced in Russia.

Subtleties of work

When you are told that the ways of finishing the walls for painting are different, this is not quite true. In fact, the technology is the same everywhere, just for some types of fundamentals, there is no point in applying certain stages of work.

Plus, naturally, for each material its own type of soil and the recommended types of putties are used. It is impossible to describe them all, for this there is an instruction on the packaging, we will dwell on general points.

Where do we start

Of course, any work of such a plan begins with the diagnosis of the foundation. If you are dealing with a relatively flat plaster, you need to knock it first on the subject of voids. As already mentioned, if there are too many of them, then you will have to tear and plaster everything anew.

For a quality end result, the wall must be not only flat, but clean. It is easiest to remove the old wallpaper, moisten them sufficiently abundantly with warm soapy water, and if after that they do not fall off, you should put a metal spatula into the work.

The emulsion paint is simply washed off with a foam sponge. Everything is much more serious if you face oil paint. You can try to remove it with a sharp metal scraper or the same trowel. If your efforts were unsuccessful, you will have to heat the paint with a blowtorch or a building dryer and scrape it off when it softens.

Theoretically, you can use special chemically aggressive washes, but you should not forget that chemistry will necessarily be absorbed into the base, and then it will evaporate, which is completely unsuitable for residential premises.

Finishing GKL for painting also requires preliminary preparation. But here it is not difficult. At the initial stage, it suffices to check whether the caps of the screws are protruding above the surface of the sheet, and in the event of such misunderstandings, simply tighten them with a screwdriver.

If your wall is already clean, but not quite flat yet, before the next stage of finishing it is necessarily covered with soil. On smooth concrete, the soil will increase the level of adhesion to the surface, it will create a protective film on the tree and will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the array, and the gypsum cardboard will protect it from being soddened by cardboard and paper warping.

Important: if the concrete or plaster immediately primes all completely, then GKL is initially primed only at the joining of sheets and around the caps of the self-tapping screws, and after they are sealed, they proceed to general work on the plane.

Main work

As already mentioned, the technology of finishing the walls for painting is not difficult, but it requires accuracy and serious attention. We will consider this type of work on the example of GKL trim and, as a private option, LSU.

Important: if you prefer dry mixes, then you should remember that after combining with water, this composition hardens within an hour.
Accordingly, you need to breed as much putty as you are able to work out during this period, otherwise the rest will have to be thrown away.

When the soil at the joints of the sheets and screws is dry, you can get to work. Initially, the joints are coated with a medium-sized spatula, after which, while the composition is still wet, a so-called serpyanka tape is applied and pressed onto it, this is a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Press in with a spatula, so that the tape is completely submerged, and the solution is made through the cells. Self-tapping screws are puttied with a light stroke.

Now you need to wait for the putty to dry and wipe it with a plaster net or fine sandpaper to a smooth state. After that, it was the turn of the re-opening of the primer, only now you need to prime the entire surface. The soil should be well absorbed or even completely dry, it will tell you the instructions to it.

Important: the process itself is short-lived, most of the time technological breaks are taken for soaking and drying.
But without them in any way, otherwise the quality of the finish will suffer.

The wall is puttied with a wide trowel. For this, the mixture is collected with a small spatula and evenly distributed along the blade. After that, the spatula is applied to the wall, approximately at an angle of 20–30º and is carried along diagonally with equal pressure. The next stroke is done crosswise. So gradually, the whole plane is sealed.

Finishing thickness ranges from 1 to 4 mm. Layers overlap, and you need to move towards the newly imposed area, and not from him. For arranging the corners some kind of serpyanka is used, a grid with an angular one, the technology of plastering is the same here. Professionals do without an angular profile and derive an angle with a special spatula, but in the absence of dexterity, such work is not worth taking.

When the surface is dry, it needs to be smoothly ground, for this also used plaster grid or emery. Keep in mind that it is only possible to smoothly and smoothly using directional lighting. Usually the master holds the lamp in one hand and grinds the other. If this rule is neglected, then almost certainly you will have many minor defects that are not immediately visible and will manifest only after painting.

Finishing walls of drywall for painting, as a rule, is performed in a single layer with a finishing putty. Concrete, plaster and other types of foundations require the imposition of the starting composition, which is mounted serpyanka. And only after pre-sanding and priming the finishing compound is applied.

Important: after the work is finished, the surface should be opened with a layer of soil.
But this layer is needed already in order to lay down paint evenly and without streaks.

Pricing secrets

Not every kind of decorating can be done by hand. Sometimes it makes sense to use the services of professionals. Now each company will provide you with a price list, usually there prices are indicated at the rate of 1m². But do not be in a hurry to order right away, first you need to say each item.

• At the moment, the price of priming works starts from 14 rubles. Besides the fact that the primer can be applied independently, specify, most likely, this is the price for 1 layer, and, as you know, you will need at least 3;
• The cost of putty starts from 100 p. And here we can also talk only about applying a single layer;
• Plastering ranges from 30 to 60 p .;
• As for the cost of painting, it will cost at least 100 r per layer. It happens that a single price of 200 - 250 r is indicated, here we mean two-layer coloring, but for each additional layer you will have to pay extra;
• Pasting of walls serpyankoy will cost approximately 100 - 150 r.

Conclusion

Now you know how to finish the surface for painting. The photo and video in this article shows the practical side of the issue. But in order to fix the skill, it is better to start with a less visible part of the wall. Leave your questions and suggestions in the comments, we will be happy to help.

• Types of painted surfaces
• Delete old wallpaper
• Removing old paint
• Rust, mildew and grease removal
• Wall leveling
  • Putting starting putty
  • Putting finishing putty
  • Preparation of other surfaces for painting

Today, painting walls is a worthy alternative to any kind of finishing and therefore is very popular. The most difficult stage in the performance of any finishing work is the preparatory work.

And finishing the walls for painting is the most difficult task. The requirements for it are very high. Only perfect preparation will allow to achieve the perfect quality of the painted surface.

Types of painted surfaces

You can paint different types of surfaces. Conventionally, they can be divided as follows:

• smooth putty surface;
• textured surface;
• smooth surface of the facing material (wood, tile, wallpaper, plastic);
• relief surface of facing materials.

For each case there is its own technology for preparing walls for painting. But the most complete process of preparing the surface for painting is leveling and filling the surface. Let us consider what stages of surface preparation need to go through in order to start its painting.

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Delete old wallpaper

Instruments:

• warm water bucket;
• roller or sponge;
• putty knife;
• sandpaper medium grit.

Removing old wallpaper is sometimes not a simple task. But it must be done. To facilitate this work, the wallpaper must be abundantly moistened with warm water, sometimes more than once, with a sponge or roller. When the wallpaper is well soaked with water, they will become amenable to remove. First remove the large pieces of wallpaper, and then remove the remaining small pieces with a spatula.

Sometimes it happens that the wallpaper is glued so tightly that you can remove them with pieces of plaster. It is not scary, since the surface for painting will continue to be carefully putty.

Finally, sand the walls well with sandpaper or float.

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Removing old paint

Instruments:

• sandpaper with a coarse grain;
• metal brush;
• putty knife.

First you need to determine what type of paint is applied to the wall. Rub the wall with sandpaper. If the paint remains on the abrasive, then it is water based paint. If the paint is easily removed from the abrasive by gentle shaking, then it is alkyd or oil.

Paint from the wall must be removed carefully. To remove the oil paint the walls need to be treated with 5% soda solution. And to easily cope with water dispersion paint, use wallpaper glue and old newspapers. Walls need to smear with glue and stick newspapers. When the glue is completely dry, the paint will be easily removed along with the newspapers. The method of removing paint on glue is to apply 2% hydrochloric acid solution on it. The wall will blister and the paint can be easily washed off.

When the paint from the walls is completely removed, they need to be well washed, dried and treated with emery paper.

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Rust, mildew and grease removal

Spots of grease, rust or mildew can easily tread on a painted surface. Therefore, even at the stage of preparing the surface for painting from them you need to get rid of. Mold can be removed by treating the affected areas with fungicides. Fat stains are removed with a solution of soda. The rust is washed off with water, and then this place is treated with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g of vitriol per 1 liter of boiling water).

Observe safety precautions when working with chemicals. Wear rubber gloves and goggles. Pick up suitable for work clothes and wear a hat.

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Wall leveling

The technology of preparing any surface for painting is aimed at eliminating all irregularities. This can be achieved in several ways:

• sanding an existing coating;
• wall decoration with drywall;
• plaster and putty.

Surface grinding is suitable for a concrete surface when it is solid, durable and intact. For this it is enough to remove a thin layer of plaster using a grinding machine. Old coatings are subject to mandatory antiseptic treatment and priming. All minor injuries and mold areas are cleaned and spattered. The level difference should be no more than 2 mm. When this result is achieved, you can begin to putty on the walls for painting.

Full replacement of plaster is required when there are significant differences in the level and detached areas. Also for this case fit drywall. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

Finished smooth plastered walls should be carefully primed and left to dry. Proceeding to the next stage with wet walls is not recommended.

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Putting starting putty

Materials and tools for applying putty:

• starting and finishing putties;
• a bucket for the preparation of the mixture;
• drill with mixer;
• wide and small spatula (60-80 and 20-25 cm);
• trowel for leveling putty;
• the rule;
• reinforcing nylon mesh;
• abrasive mesh of different grain and grater.

According to the technology, painting directly on the cement-sand plaster is not recommended, as its surface is very porous and absorbs moisture. Therefore, the paint on it does not lie evenly and the color can change. All surface roughness will also be noticeable. To avoid this, putty on the surface of the wall.

The first layer of putty is made starting putty, which allows to apply a layer of up to 5 mm. Putty must be diluted in accordance with the instructions on the package. This should be done immediately before applying to the walls. The ready-to-use putty solution in the bucket must also be opened immediately before use.

Putty for painting is recommended using a reinforcing mesh, the cell size of which is equal to 2 mm.  To do this, apply a layer of putty 2-3 mm thick to the wall, attach a mesh to it and press it down well with a spatula. When this layer dries, apply another layer of starting putty.

Very often, beginners make mistakes by trying to achieve the most even surface from the first layer and smooth out all the protruding strips left from the edges of the spatula. It is not necessary to do this at all. In this case, the main thing is that there are no strong depressions and there are no open areas left. It is enough to hold the spatula 1-2 times at the transitions between the strips, and sand the remaining irregularities after drying. The solution should not be applied in too small portions, since in this case large irregularities cannot be avoided. With the accumulation of experience such drawbacks will be minimal.

After applying the starting layer of putty, she needs to give time to dry - 6-8 hours. Then you can begin to grind the surface with an abrasive mesh size of 120. Thus, all rough surface irregularities are removed. At the end of the wall must be primed and let them dry.

If creating the desired interior involves painting the walls, then you need to start with a painstaking surface preparation. In new buildings, less work is to be done, but it will still not be possible to avoid preprocessing. There are many nuances that you should know about before preparing the walls for painting.

For secondary repairs, it is recommended to start with the complete removal of old coatings. It is required to completely remove the previous layers of paint, whitewash or plaster from the wall. In the age houses, especially if the repair for several decades, you need to remove all the putty to the concrete base. In buildings that suggest internal overlap of wooden crates (grill) should examine the state of wood and filler. The most reasonable solution, which allows to prepare structures for further processing and painting, will be the replacement of old internal partitions or the strengthening of walls with a building reinforcing mesh with applying putty.

Paper wallpaper is removed, pre-soak them in water. Vinyl versions and “washable” modifications require a different approach: before work it is necessary to split the surface into sections, make several notches on the working surface, thus ensuring water access to the inner layer and glue. In the case of unsuccessful attempts, professionals recommend preparing a solution with a small amount of detergent or adding cellulose glue. This composition will allow the liquid to expand the pores of the coatings and facilitate their removal. Resourceful craftsmen are advised to remove the wallpaper with a simple steamer, considering this method to be quite effective.

Old oil painting will be easier to clean by applying a weak solution of sodium carbonate (you can use regular soda). For a quick removal of the water emulsion, you will need diluted acid - you need to add a teaspoon of edible lemon per liter of water.

When the finishing layers are removed, it is necessary to degrease the walls by washing them with water with a conventional detergent. Such training will ensure the smooth execution of subsequent operations.

If, as a result of pre-treatment, traces of rust appeared on the surface of the wall, they may remain noticeable during painting. Masters are ready to offer several recipes to quickly cope with an unpleasant surprise:

• - perfectly cope with the task of 10% of copper sulfate;
• - especially persistent stains can be masked: apply a primer on them on metal or stick pieces of cardboard on small stains, and put walls on top of them;
• - fat weak traces can be treated with 5-10% soda ash.

The fight against mold should be only radical: the use of antiseptics and the removal of all the affected layers.

Primer and leveling walls, the choice of tools for painting

Make a perfectly smooth walls under the force of not only a professional, but also an amateur who is responsible for the work. The primer is performed twice: as an obligatory surface preparation before applying plaster on the walls, and also after sanding the finishing putty before painting. This intermediate finishing material fills the pores and provides smoother layers of decorative coating. The primer is applied by brush or roller on a long handle. Some masters believe that the use of the spray gun is rational for processing walls and ceilings.

For further work will be needed. It is advisable to purchase them in finished form, since self-preparation is more laborious and does not exclude errors. Alignment of the walls by applying layers of plaster to the surface with a spatula and further processing with the correct plane remains the most common. The finish coating is stacked in several stages and polished. Next, the walls are primed and dried for 5 hours. In case you need less layers of plaster.

• - primer before painting will be more effective if it is made with a mixture of paint and soil in a ratio of 1: 1;
• - acrylic composition is universal: this primer is suitable for almost any subsequent coating. But under water-soluble paints it is better to choose a primer of identical composition;
• - before work, it is necessary to thoroughly remove chalk residues and fine particles from the walls.

The technological process involves the application of 3 or 4 layers of putty. Since almost all the internal planes in old houses have significant defects, then plastering for painting remains relevant. To work performed perfectly, experts recommend using the installation of "beacons":

• - determine the curvature of the wall, hammer in the desired height of the nails;
• - on protruding caps strengthen the pyramids from the solution;
• - after solidification of the base layer, an additional portion of the solution is deposited and leveled with the rule based on “beacons”.

In order to make the corners perfect, add some gypsum to the solution.

Also, professionals pay special attention to such an important matter as the preparation of the necessary tools that will be needed for applying paint - only with a responsible approach to the event will the result be perfect. The basic list includes:

• - rollers of different types: traditional foam rubber, delicate velor, leaving the original footprint fur. Also, when applying decorative patterns on the main painting will be useful textured specimens. This option is suitable for perfectly flat, shaped surfaces;
• - Compressor, airbrush can determine an amazing result, but only if you have certain skills to work with them;
• - various brushes: for a water emulsion it is better to take synthetics that will not soften and lose elasticity; for oil or alkyd paint, natural bristles will be an ideal choice. Mixed versions - a combination of natural fibers with artificial ones - are considered universal.

And in order for painting to be of the highest quality and efficient, you should take care of the microclimate: the room should be from 5 to 25 o C of heat.

Modern interior design provides a huge range of different options for decorative wall decoration. Among them: paneling, tiling, wallpapering. One of the most popular technologies is the decoration of walls for painting. This option gives a lot of advantages. First of all, it is a wide range of colors and the ability to quickly and inexpensively drastically change the interior style of the room. But few apartment owners who decide to make repairs on their own, know how to properly prepare the walls for painting.

Stages of preparation

The specificity of the painting technology is that it is necessary to prepare the wall with special care. A thin layer of paintwork cannot hide even the smallest flaws of the painted surface. The technology of preparing the walls for painting depends on the type of the painted surface, the material from which it is made, and the type of paint. In general, preparation for painting walls in a new building without preliminary finishing consists of the following steps:

• Rough alignment with base plaster.
• Putty surface: starting and finishing.
• Primer.
• Coloring.

The wall, already processed by any means, must be cleaned from the old finish right up to the base. Only after that you can start preparing the wall for painting.

Plastering

Putting plaster provides preliminary preparation of the bearing surface. Depending on the material, it may differ slightly in nuances.

Phased process

Before you prepare the walls for painting, you should familiarize yourself with all the stages of work. In the new house with raw walls, you must determine how smooth they are. To do this, use a long building level or plumb. By measuring the entire area of ​​the wall with the instrument in both vertical and horizontal directions, you can get a complete picture of all deviations from the norm.

According to the regulations of the SNiP, the permissible value of the “blockage” of the wall is no more than 0.5 cm for every 3 m. With a larger deviation, it is necessary to level with a plaster mortar.

For convenience of work, beacons are mounted along the entire wall - tags made of flat metal tubes or wooden slats. They are installed on the strips from the solution as follows:

• There are 2 starting beacons in the corners of the wall.
• Between them in the upper and lower parts of the string is stretched.
• The rest of the lighthouses are set on it every 0.8 - 1 m.

When installing intermediate beacons they should not be pressed tightly against the tensioned string. Otherwise, there is a possibility of its gradual deviation outward. Between the lighthouses and the thread should be a gap of 1-2 mm.

Then plaster mortar is poured on the wall and left for 0.5-1 hour. After it dries slightly, it should be pulled out using a rule or a wide trowel, and the beacons removed. After 12 hours, when the plaster seizes, the final leveling is done with a metal trowel or a wooden semi-trowel. Plaster mortar can be purchased at the hardware store in the form of a dry mixture, or do it yourself - the proportions of the various solutions are given in the table.

Increase adhesion

It is most simple to plaster a brick wall, thanks to its relief structure, to which the mortar adheres well. In this case, the plaster can be applied directly to the wall, only clearing it of dirt and treated with a primer. The need and methods of priming in the preparation of the walls for painting with their own hands will be discussed below.

For high-quality plaster walls of monolithic reinforced concrete, it may be necessary to increase its adhesion. Modern technology monolith pouring involves the use of collapsible formwork from sheet steel or laminated shields. This allows you to simplify the installation and dismantling of the formwork, as well as get a more even surface.

But too flat concrete surface has its drawbacks. The wall, smooth to glossy gloss, possesses very low indicator of a hitch - adhesion with any finishing structures. As a result, the coating of any solution will not be durable.

In order to increase adhesion, the concrete wall is pretreated with various abrasive or percussion tools: a grinder, a stonemason pick, an ax, a chisel, etc. As a result, the surface is covered with notches or acquires a rough structure.

Another option to increase the hitch - plaster grid. It is attached to the concrete by means of dowel-nails and serves as a strong base for the plaster mortar.

Wooden surfaces have poor adhesion indicators with plaster mortars. This is due to the physical characteristics of the wood, with the result that any mixture will not stick to it.

The wooden wall should be additionally prepared for plastering. For this, plaster metal or fiberglass mesh is also used, or shingles, thin wooden slats, are crammed onto the surface.

The mesh can vary in cell diameter: the thicker the plaster layer, the larger the mesh should be used.

Putty

If the concrete surface is sufficiently smooth, it is possible to completely do without applying basic plaster, but it is not recommended to place paint solutions directly on the cement surface, whether it is monolithic reinforced concrete or cement plaster. First, they have a large number of small pores. Secondly, their surface is not as smooth as it should be: at the joints of the formwork shields inevitably there are flows and joints, and throughout the entire wall area there are areas of small sinks and other defects.

Application area

To remove the sagging and joints, the walls are polished for painting. As a result of the high porosity of concrete, paint consumption increases dramatically due to its increased absorption. To avoid overuse of material and seal up minor defects, putty is used. It has a fine structure, and when applied to a plastered surface, it can be made more even and smooth.

Putty differs from plaster in its composition. Cement, gypsum or polymers are used as a binder. The fine structure is obtained by using fine-grained quartz sand and chemical plasticizers as a filler.

Application technology

Spackling solution goes on sale either in the form of ready-to-use formulations, or in the form of dry mixes. The method of preparation of dry formulations is quite simple: water is poured into the bucket, to which the mixture is added in the required amount. The proportions of the preparation of the solution are usually given in the instructions for use placed on the packaging. To putty the walls you will need the following tools:

• A bucket or other container for the solution.
• Wide and narrow spatulas.
• Grout.

It is necessary to start work from one of the upper corners so that in the process of work the drops and splashes do not fall on the already treated surface. The finished mixture of capacity is covered with a narrow trowel and is evenly distributed over the entire length of the wide tool. After that, smooth, sweeping movements putty is applied to the wall.

As a material for processing, immediately preceding the painting, you can use plastering finishing compositions. They differ from basic plasters with a finer filler structure, and in this respect they are closer to spackling mortars.

The thickness of the application and putty, and finishing plaster mixtures should not exceed 3 - 5 mm. After the mortar has dried, the entire surface treated with a putty is cleaned with a grout or fine sandpaper. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder.

When working with it, use protective glasses and a respirator to prevent dust from entering the mucous membranes and respiratory organs.

Primer

Preparation of walls for painting provides for their obligatory treatment with primers. Primer allows to achieve several results:

• Increase carrier adhesion.
• To prevent the defeat of the walls of fungi and mold.
• Strengthen the surface.
• Give the wall water repellency.

Adhesive primer compositions are used to process smooth surfaces and increase the adhesion of the wall to paint. This is achieved by introducing quartz primers into the composition, which allows you to make any ideally smooth surfaces slightly rough to the touch.

Antiseptic formulations should be used in rooms with increased dampness - they do not allow mold and fungus to develop on the treated wall. The glue contained in primers strengthens the surface and prevents its cracking and peeling.

Due to its increased fluidity, the primer penetrates into the smallest cracks and pores, filling them. Thus, the water access paths in the thickness of the wall are blocked, and its premature destruction is prevented. In the complex all this significantly increases the service life of the painted surface. The technology of preparing walls for painting involves applying primer-compositions before applying each subsequent layer of finish.

To increase the effectiveness of the primer should be applied in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after complete drying of the previous one. It usually takes from 3 to 10 hours and depends on the type of soil composition, air humidity and temperature in the room.

When choosing primers and fillers you need to take into account one more thing: their compositions must be compatible with each other. It is better if they are created on the basis of the same material as the paint that you plan to use.

Preparation for painting other surfaces

Often there is a need to paint the walls already covered with other finishing materials. In this case, the specifics of the preparatory work depends on the characteristics of the treated surface.

If you need to paint a tile, the main task will be to give a smooth surface a rough structure, for which an adhesive primer is used. It is applied to the tile with a roller or brush on two or three layers, after which you can begin to paint the wall.

Before painting walls covered with special wallpaper intended for painting, special preparation is usually not required. Simply wipe them with a damp cloth to remove dust from the surface. True, some manufacturers in the instructions for use recommend pre-cover them with special primer-compounds.

Surfaces covered with wood panels or lath, first of all, should be cleaned with sandpaper or sanders. Then the wooden base is covered with a special primer on wood or linseed. They reduce paint consumption and increase the resistance of wood to fungus and tree borers.

Putty minor defects should be special compositions designed for finishing wooden parts and surfaces.

Paint selection

The final stage - the choice of paint. Almost any paintwork variant is suitable for painting internal walls. The main thing is that it most closely matches the taste of the apartment owner. After all, the main purpose of painting the walls is to give the room aesthetics and create a cozy atmosphere.

Water emulsion The most popular form of coloring compositions today, the main advantage of which is the creation of a film that is permeable to air. Thus, they do not prevent free gas exchange through the walls of the building.

Latex. Their peculiarity is a flat and smooth surface protecting the walls from the penetration of dampness. This coating is recommended for use in rooms with high humidity levels.

Acrylic. Created on the basis of acrylic resins. Differs in resistance to attrition and an ultraviolet, vapor-permeable. Suitable for painting any surfaces: plaster, concrete, wood, metal, as well as for outdoor use.

Oil and nitro enamels. The classic version used many decades ago, which is durable and durable. Among the minuses can be called a large consumption of material and persistent chemical smell.

Observing technologies and requirements of building codes, it is possible to make high-quality preparation of walls for painting with your own hands.. The main aspect affecting the technology is the characteristics of the treated surface.

The video shows the process of preparing the walls for painting.